More Lee Factory Crimp Questions

[robhic]

I wasn't all that unhappy with the crimps I was getting on my .38spl and .357mag rounds. The RCBS roll-crimp die(s) took a while to adjust but I got them to be satisfactory. But a little better couldn't be a bad idea, right?

So I got a Lee die, set it up and tried it today. Seemed to work but upon raising the bullet atop the ram, as it entered the die it made a noise and was tight. I really don't think the flare was too big (it was right on the money and the 135gr Bayou Bullets round nose bullet just fit in) so I felt that shouldn't be it. I then crimped the rest (I made 5 to play with and test...) and same tight, noisy process. Is this normal or is there something I need to check/adjust? I went by the instructions slowly and carefully. I raised my RCBS seat/crimp die so it didn't apply a crimp (and after all that work!) and seated only. Then I crimped the 5 rounds separately.

Advice? Comments? Is tight and noisy normal? Thanks!

[Nick_C_S]

The Lee FCD for 38/357 has two features that makes it different than most standard dies used for crimping (and usually seating).

First, it has a collar at its base that keeps the completed round from exceeding a certain diameter. This collar can "iron out" case wall imperfections sometimes caused by seating the bullet, etc.

Second, it has a "floating" ring inside which actually performs the crimp. This piece must float, i.e. move up and down inside the die body in order to crimp at any height (38 or 357), yet still being able to allow the collar at its base to work all the way down to near the case head.

I think what you're hearing is that floating ring inside the die.

It's an easy die to adjust: Back out the adjustment screw so there's no interaction with the seated round. Run the seated round up to the top. Screw the adjustment screw down until you feel it interfere with the round. Back the ram down. Turn the screw down about 1/4 to 3/8ths turn (from my experience) to get the desired crimp. 1/4 turn is pretty light. 1/2 turn is quiet heavy.

IMO, the Lee FCD for 38/357 (and 44Mag/Spl) applies a very nice, consistent roll crimp. I like it. I like it a lot.

[robhic]

The Lee FCD for 38/357 has two features that makes it different than most standard dies used for crimping (and usually seating).

First, it has a collar at its base that keeps the completed round from exceeding a certain diameter. This collar can "iron out" case wall imperfections sometimes caused by seating the bullet, etc.

Second, it has a "floating" ring inside which actually performs the crimp. This piece must float, i.e. move up and down inside the die body in order to crimp at any height (38 or 357), yet still being able to allow the collar at its base to work all the way down to near the case head.

I think what you're hearing is that floating ring inside the die.

Thanks for that explanation. I didn't know about the 2 rings. The floating one was loose and 'floating', so I'm guessing it is OK. Could definitely be the cause of the noise.

Your explanation for use seems pretty close the the instructions. I'm gonna go play around with it a bit more. But thanks for the info!!!

[Unclenick]

You may have felt resistance from the flare being narrowed by the carbide ring at the bottom, too. To test that, take a resized and expanded case, and check its fit in the mouth of the Lee die. If it doesn't go, you could adjust your seating die until it's crimp shoulder partially crimps the case mouth just enough to fit freely into the Lee. That will still leave the mouth out of contact with the bullet in the Seating dies, so you won't get into the scraping and final fit issues associated with seating and crimping completely in one step.

[Nick_C_S]

you could adjust your seating die until it's crimp shoulder partially crimps the case mouth just enough to fit freely into the Lee.

I do this technique.

My seat die also happens to be a taper crimp die (as opposed to a roll crimp die). I believe Unclenick's technique works better with a taper crimp die; but can certainly be done with a roll crimp die - it's just a touch more persnickety to hit that fine line.

I'll open my own can of worms:

I load on a progressive. But my brass reconditioning and actual ammo loading are performed as two discrete processes. I recondition the brass (resize/decap, flair); and then they get a wet tumble in SS pins. So I have clean shiny brass cases to begin the actual load process.

And since I don't do the recondition process at the same time as the loading process, that means I have lots of die stations to play with.

So when I load 38/357, the first die (taper crimp die) seats and applies just a slight amount of crimp. A second taper crimp die then applies a full taper crimp. The third station is my Lee FCD which applies a roll crimp - if applicable.

I say "if applicable" because I load a lot of plated bullets and forego the roll crimp on those. And my lead bullets only get a taper crimp as well. Only my jacketed bullets get finished off with a roll crimp.

Sorry I went down a bunny trail. But that's my load process for 38/357 (44 Mag/Spl too). Semi-auto ammo is different of course, since they aren't roll crimped at all.

[Unclenick]

Have you tried the Lee Collet Style Crimp Die with the plated bullets? I got a couple on sale for that purpose and a couple of other experiments, but haven't got to it yet.

[robhic]

You may have felt resistance from the flare being narrowed by the carbide ring at the bottom, too. To test that, take a resized and expanded case, and check its fit in the mouth of the Lee die. If it doesn't go, you could adjust your seating die until it's crimp shoulder partially crimps the case mouth just enough to fit freely into the Lee. That will still leave the mouth out of contact with the bullet in the Seating dies, so you won't get into the scraping and final fit issues associated with seating and crimping completely in one step.

That's a good idea. The flare was my first thought but it didn't stop the case entering, just made it tight at first. I think I will go back and refine things a bit and see if it gets better.

My seat die also happens to be a taper crimp die (as opposed to a roll crimp die). I believe Unclenick's technique works better with a taper crimp die; but can certainly be done with a roll crimp die - it's just a touch more persnickety to hit that fine line.

My seat die is an RCBS roll-crimp and I'm sing a Rock Chucker SS press. It's slower and easier. As I said above, now that I have a bit more info I think I can play with the adjustment and get it down really well.

Thanks to both for the input and ideas, I appreciate your sharing of experience!