My .45 Colt Blackhawk is binding after a dozen rounds

Hal · September 23, 2001, 07:40 AM

The first 6 rounds are no problem. No problems ejecting the empty cases either. So far I've used my own handloads, CCI Blazer, Black Hills and 3D. My own loads are either Unique or 2400, and it doesn't matter which one I use,(yes, I understand Unique is filthy, but the 2400 loads burn very clean as does the CCI Blazer.)If there's another factory loading for .45Colt that's exceptionaly clean burning, I'm all for giving it a try to see if that's the problem. The cylinder binding gets progressivly worse vs the number of rounds fired, but when I get the gun home and clean it, it works fine the next time out for the first 6 to 18 shots, then starts up again.

I'm not at the end of my rope with it, since it's a seldom fired gun anyhow, and one of the ones I plan on putting up for long term storage. I'd like to get the kinks worked out before I do though.

G3 · September 23, 2001, 07:49 AM

Try contacting Ruger. They are pretty helpful.

Sample · September 23, 2001, 08:09 AM

Do your 2400 loads really burn clean? My 2400 loads never burn all the way - there is always unburned powder remaining which wreaks havok after 20-30 rounds. I've stopped using that powder for this reason.

Be sure that you try scrubbing all of the carbon from the cylinder throats. When you're sure that they're clean, scrub them a few more times.

bad4u · September 23, 2001, 10:57 AM

Sounds a lot like my first S&W Model 29. I got delivery in early Winter. Took it to the range (Danvers, MA) and it shot fine - for a little while.

Turned out that the temperature was about 20F, and when I put the gun down to wait for a halt in range firing to change targets, the action was frozen. It was simply very tight action action tolerances.

It sounds like the same problem in your gun, except the action locks up as the weapon warms up due to firing.

I'll bet you can reproduce the problem by a short warm-up in an oven at 100F.

Ed Brunner · September 23, 2001, 11:51 AM

I pretty much go along with the dirty powder theory. If it is binding because of a buildup on the rear of the barrel and the face of the cylinder, it could be the powder or the gap could be too small.

James K · September 23, 2001, 12:19 PM

Check the barrel-cylinder gap. Most concern about that area is directed at too large a gap, but one too small will cause cylinder binding when the cylinder gets warm and expands. The gap should be just about .006. Anything smaller than .004 can mean trouble. (Auto store feeler gauges work fine, just make sure you can get the right combination to measure gaps that small.)

If that is the case, also check the front of the cylinder to see if it is square, that is whether it is binding in only one place. If it is not square, I would give it to a very competent gunsmith or send it back to the factory. If the cylinder is square, then the barrel end can be down a bit with careful file work, but it would be better to go the gunsmith/factory route, as a mistake in that area can be costly.

Jim

Bill n AK · September 24, 2001, 11:25 AM

Greetings
I think im has a handle on that. as the cylender warms up it will expand about .000006 per in. per degree of temp(millwrights rule of thumb), the barrel will expand also, but out from the frame.-Bill

September 23, 2001, 07:40 AM	#1
Hal Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 1998 Location: Ohio USA Posts: 8,563	My .45 Colt Blackhawk is binding after a dozen rounds The first 6 rounds are no problem. No problems ejecting the empty cases either. So far I've used my own handloads, CCI Blazer, Black Hills and 3D. My own loads are either Unique or 2400, and it doesn't matter which one I use,(yes, I understand Unique is filthy, but the 2400 loads burn very clean as does the CCI Blazer.)If there's another factory loading for .45Colt that's exceptionaly clean burning, I'm all for giving it a try to see if that's the problem. The cylinder binding gets progressivly worse vs the number of rounds fired, but when I get the gun home and clean it, it works fine the next time out for the first 6 to 18 shots, then starts up again. I'm not at the end of my rope with it, since it's a seldom fired gun anyhow, and one of the ones I plan on putting up for long term storage. I'd like to get the kinks worked out before I do though.

September 23, 2001, 10:57 AM	#4
bad4u Member Join Date: September 1, 2000 Posts: 74	Sounds a lot like my first S&W Model 29. I got delivery in early Winter. Took it to the range (Danvers, MA) and it shot fine - for a little while. Turned out that the temperature was about 20F, and when I put the gun down to wait for a halt in range firing to change targets, the action was frozen. It was simply very tight action action tolerances. It sounds like the same problem in your gun, except the action locks up as the weapon warms up due to firing. I'll bet you can reproduce the problem by a short warm-up in an oven at 100F. __________________ A nation that limits Freedom in the name of Security will have neither (Thomas Jefferson)

September 23, 2001, 11:51 AM	#5
Ed Brunner Senior Member Join Date: October 11, 1998 Location: Natchez, MS, USA Posts: 2,562	I pretty much go along with the dirty powder theory. If it is binding because of a buildup on the rear of the barrel and the face of the cylinder, it could be the powder or the gap could be too small. __________________ MOLON LABE UNTIL IT'S OVER! Ed

September 23, 2001, 07:49 AM	#2
G3 Senior Member Join Date: September 24, 2000 Location: Central Indiana Posts: 138	Try contacting Ruger. They are pretty helpful.

September 23, 2001, 08:09 AM	#3
Sample Member Join Date: February 3, 2001 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 40	Do your 2400 loads really burn clean? My 2400 loads never burn all the way - there is always unburned powder remaining which wreaks havok after 20-30 rounds. I've stopped using that powder for this reason. Be sure that you try scrubbing all of the carbon from the cylinder throats. When you're sure that they're clean, scrub them a few more times.

September 23, 2001, 12:19 PM	#6
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Check the barrel-cylinder gap. Most concern about that area is directed at too large a gap, but one too small will cause cylinder binding when the cylinder gets warm and expands. The gap should be just about .006. Anything smaller than .004 can mean trouble. (Auto store feeler gauges work fine, just make sure you can get the right combination to measure gaps that small.) If that is the case, also check the front of the cylinder to see if it is square, that is whether it is binding in only one place. If it is not square, I would give it to a very competent gunsmith or send it back to the factory. If the cylinder is square, then the barrel end can be down a bit with careful file work, but it would be better to go the gunsmith/factory route, as a mistake in that area can be costly. Jim

September 24, 2001, 11:25 AM	#7
Bill n AK Junior Member Join Date: January 22, 2001 Location: Soldotna Posts: 13	Greetings I think im has a handle on that. as the cylender warms up it will expand about .000006 per in. per degree of temp(millwrights rule of thumb), the barrel will expand also, but out from the frame.-Bill