How to prep deer skin?

Lavid2002 · October 21, 2010, 09:23 PM

Hey guys, I am looking to get my first deer this fall with a bow, and since it is too expensive for me to mount the deer I would like to keep the skin at least (And maybe find a cool display box for the arrow)

I have done squirrel hides before but they always come out rock hard. (Staple it to a piece of wood and use salt and baking soda on the skin after skimming off all the fat + meat.)

How do you treat a deer hide? Is this something I can do relatively easily?

Thanks guys!

-Dave

siv · October 21, 2010, 10:11 PM

There are some really good and relatively cheap products at outdoor stores. I don't know where you are from, but by me scheels allsports has some good stuff. They come with instructions.

mete · October 22, 2010, 07:17 AM

The original way makes a leather that is very soft yet very strong . It's a labor intensive job ! As I remember the hide is soaked in water with ashes which will remove the hair . It's then treated with the brains of the animal..It's also worked - stretched etc.

Scorch · October 22, 2010, 11:31 AM

Look at taxidermy supply stores. You can buy hide tanning kits that have all the stuff you need to make hair-on or hair-off tanned hides, and complete instructions for using the kits.

FrankenMauser · October 22, 2010, 01:01 PM

Or... Do a search here for "hide tanning".

The best prices I have ever seen on deer/elk/bear/cougar/antelope/gator tanning was a place highly recommended on this forum. (can't remember the name - I think the place was in Georgia)

If you don't want a green hide (actual color, not metaphorical "green"), it's probably best to send it out. I understand the desire to do it yourself, but I've never seen a successful DIY-tanning operation from one of the kits. They come out green, or start to fall apart within a year.

If you're going to send it out:

For hair-off:
Clean all meat, fat, and flesh from the hide.
Spread a 1/4" to 1/2" layer of fine salt (not iodized, and "table salt" sized granules) on the inside of the hide, and roll it up tightly.
Seal in multiple trash bags. And store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight, until you can ship it out. (In warm climates, you may have to refrigerate the hide, and get shipped out quickly.)

For hair-on:
Clean all meat, fat, and flesh from the hide.
Roll the hide tightly.
Double, or triple, bag it.
Freeze immediately.
Contact the tanning company, and ask what care measures you need to take (for hair-on, most companies have different preferences for preservation).
-Or-
Call before you go hunting, and take those preservation measures as soon as the hide is cleaned up.

I'm all for doing things myself, but tanning has a steep learning curve (or used to - I haven't even seen a DIY attempt in 12-15 years). If you absolutely want a good hide, send it out. If you're more interested in learning the process, I'm all for trying it at home.

aarondhgraham · October 22, 2010, 01:42 PM

Was that you essentially made rawhide.

There is a product available through your local Tandy Leather store,,,
It's called "Tannit".

Scrape the hide real well and apply the Tannit as per the instructions,,,
It's labor intensive but it will work to do one hide.

Good luck,,,

.

markj · October 22, 2010, 04:03 PM

Indians used a oak stump filled with water, the tannic acid in the oak soaks into the hide tanning it. Do some research at the library and you will find it isnt all that hard to do.

We did some back in the late 60s like this as a boy scout thing. Dad had a jacket made from them hides by a guy name Mannheimer, had a place on 7nd st. here in Omaha but the tornado of 75 took his shop and scattered hides mink etc all over. We picked em up and gave em back to him Dad got a coat for almost free.

Another man I know uses a old refrigeratr on its back filled with the liquid tannic acid mix.

HiBC · October 22, 2010, 06:20 PM

You may also consider what is called a european mount if you get some horns.
It is just horns and bleached white skull mounted.It can be a DYI cheap.
You might look in Cabelas,the have a kit.
"The Book of Buckskinning" is one the Rendevous folks refer to a lot.You may find what you need in there.
It will be a brain tan.Thing is,if you are in a CWD area I wouldn't play with deer brains.I think there are substitutes.There is also something about smoking the skin.It will be stiff,but then the hide is worked.Its all in the book
Good luck.
De-hairing is a project.

shortwave · October 22, 2010, 07:31 PM

Some years ago, a friend of mine had a 3/4 length deer-hide coat made out of several hides. He had the hair left on and natural color.. Didn't think I'd like the hair-on design but coat was absolutely beautiful. Don't know where he sent hides to but this coat was one of the warmest, water-proof coats I've ever had on.
ALSO THE HEAVIEST.

Uncle Buck · October 24, 2010, 08:08 AM

I still do an occasional hide or two every year.

Assuming you want hair on.

Always wash the hide. I use dawn dish soap and change the water several times.

Stretch and scrape the hide.

After a couple of days, scrape it and re-salt it.

Once you get it salted and dried (Use non-ionized salt) you need to break the hide.

This is done by using something like a board set at an angle (I use a 4x4 mounted at a 45 degree angle. Run the hide back and forth over the 4x4 until it starts to fold pretty easy.

If you have an old clothes dryer, throw a pair of work boots in it and set it to tumble with no heat. (If I remember correctly you said in another post you were not married. If you are married, DO NOT use your wifes' dryer, trust me.

)

Then you need to use a leather preservative that will soak into the hide and soften it. I have used mink oil (like the shoe polish), Hubbards Shoe oil and things like that.

rr2241tx · October 30, 2010, 09:41 PM

Krotann Whitetail 2000 and stock salt for 4 days, neutralize with baking soda for 4 minutes, wash with laundry detergent and rinse thoroughly. Drip dry and tack hair side down to 4x8 plywood to dry. Oil with neatsfoot and break in the dryer with a couple of pairs of old boots on unheated air dry until the flesh side is uniform white. A quart will do about 4 average whitetail hides. Not poison, very forgiving, excellent results.

sc928porsche · November 5, 2010, 05:22 AM

If you intend on saving the hide and having it tanned, then scrape the inside, lay it down on a tarp, cover the inside with rocksalt, roll it up into a tight roll and put into a bag. Cloth bag is best, but plastic will do. Store in a shady place untill you come home and then proceed to a tanner or if you really want to, get a tanning kit. I tried tanning once. The mess and stench was terrific. I send it out to get it done.

October 21, 2010, 09:23 PM	#1
Lavid2002 Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2007 Posts: 2,568	How to prep deer skin? Hey guys, I am looking to get my first deer this fall with a bow, and since it is too expensive for me to mount the deer I would like to keep the skin at least (And maybe find a cool display box for the arrow) I have done squirrel hides before but they always come out rock hard. (Staple it to a piece of wood and use salt and baking soda on the skin after skimming off all the fat + meat.) How do you treat a deer hide? Is this something I can do relatively easily? Thanks guys! -Dave __________________ Math>Grammar

October 22, 2010, 07:17 AM	#3
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	The original way makes a leather that is very soft yet very strong . It's a labor intensive job ! As I remember the hide is soaked in water with ashes which will remove the hair . It's then treated with the brains of the animal..It's also worked - stretched etc. __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

October 22, 2010, 11:31 AM	#4
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Look at taxidermy supply stores. You can buy hide tanning kits that have all the stuff you need to make hair-on or hair-off tanned hides, and complete instructions for using the kits. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

October 22, 2010, 01:01 PM	#5
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	Or... Do a search here for "hide tanning". The best prices I have ever seen on deer/elk/bear/cougar/antelope/gator tanning was a place highly recommended on this forum. (can't remember the name - I think the place was in Georgia) If you don't want a green hide (actual color, not metaphorical "green"), it's probably best to send it out. I understand the desire to do it yourself, but I've never seen a successful DIY-tanning operation from one of the kits. They come out green, or start to fall apart within a year. If you're going to send it out: For hair-off: Clean all meat, fat, and flesh from the hide. Spread a 1/4" to 1/2" layer of fine salt (not iodized, and "table salt" sized granules) on the inside of the hide, and roll it up tightly. Seal in multiple trash bags. And store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight, until you can ship it out. (In warm climates, you may have to refrigerate the hide, and get shipped out quickly.) For hair-on: Clean all meat, fat, and flesh from the hide. Roll the hide tightly. Double, or triple, bag it. Freeze immediately. Contact the tanning company, and ask what care measures you need to take (for hair-on, most companies have different preferences for preservation). -Or- Call before you go hunting, and take those preservation measures as soon as the hide is cleaned up. I'm all for doing things myself, but tanning has a steep learning curve (or used to - I haven't even seen a DIY attempt in 12-15 years). If you absolutely want a good hide, send it out. If you're more interested in learning the process, I'm all for trying it at home. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

October 22, 2010, 01:42 PM	#6
aarondhgraham Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2009 Location: Stillwater, OKlahoma Posts: 8,638	The reason it came out stiff,,, Was that you essentially made rawhide. There is a product available through your local Tandy Leather store,,, It's called "Tannit". Scrape the hide real well and apply the Tannit as per the instructions,,, It's labor intensive but it will work to do one hide. Good luck,,, . __________________ Never ever give an enemy the advantage of a verbal threat. Caje: The coward dies a thousand times, the brave only once. Kirby: That's about all it takes, ain't it? Aarond is good,,, Aarond is wise,,, Always trust Aarond! (most of the time)

October 21, 2010, 10:11 PM	#2
siv Member Join Date: June 4, 2007 Location: Leota, MN Posts: 33	There are some really good and relatively cheap products at outdoor stores. I don't know where you are from, but by me scheels allsports has some good stuff. They come with instructions.

October 22, 2010, 04:03 PM	#7
markj Senior Member Join Date: October 27, 2005 Location: Crescent Iowa Posts: 2,971	Indians used a oak stump filled with water, the tannic acid in the oak soaks into the hide tanning it. Do some research at the library and you will find it isnt all that hard to do. We did some back in the late 60s like this as a boy scout thing. Dad had a jacket made from them hides by a guy name Mannheimer, had a place on 7nd st. here in Omaha but the tornado of 75 took his shop and scattered hides mink etc all over. We picked em up and gave em back to him Dad got a coat for almost free. Another man I know uses a old refrigeratr on its back filled with the liquid tannic acid mix.

October 22, 2010, 06:20 PM	#8
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	You may also consider what is called a european mount if you get some horns. It is just horns and bleached white skull mounted.It can be a DYI cheap. You might look in Cabelas,the have a kit. "The Book of Buckskinning" is one the Rendevous folks refer to a lot.You may find what you need in there. It will be a brain tan.Thing is,if you are in a CWD area I wouldn't play with deer brains.I think there are substitutes.There is also something about smoking the skin.It will be stiff,but then the hide is worked.Its all in the book Good luck. De-hairing is a project. Last edited by HiBC; October 23, 2010 at 12:24 AM.

October 22, 2010, 07:31 PM	#9
shortwave Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 2007 Location: SOUTHEAST, OHIO Posts: 5,970	Some years ago, a friend of mine had a 3/4 length deer-hide coat made out of several hides. He had the hair left on and natural color.. Didn't think I'd like the hair-on design but coat was absolutely beautiful. Don't know where he sent hides to but this coat was one of the warmest, water-proof coats I've ever had on. ALSO THE HEAVIEST.

October 24, 2010, 08:08 AM	#10
Uncle Buck Senior Member Join Date: June 21, 2009 Location: West Central Missouri Posts: 2,592	I still do an occasional hide or two every year. Assuming you want hair on. Always wash the hide. I use dawn dish soap and change the water several times. Stretch and scrape the hide. After a couple of days, scrape it and re-salt it. Once you get it salted and dried (Use non-ionized salt) you need to break the hide. This is done by using something like a board set at an angle (I use a 4x4 mounted at a 45 degree angle. Run the hide back and forth over the 4x4 until it starts to fold pretty easy. If you have an old clothes dryer, throw a pair of work boots in it and set it to tumble with no heat. (If I remember correctly you said in another post you were not married. If you are married, DO NOT use your wifes' dryer, trust me.) Then you need to use a leather preservative that will soak into the hide and soften it. I have used mink oil (like the shoe polish), Hubbards Shoe oil and things like that. __________________ Inside Every Bright Idea Is The 50% Probability Of A Disaster Waiting To Happen.

October 30, 2010, 09:41 PM	#11
rr2241tx Senior Member Join Date: August 2, 2007 Location: The Great State of Taxes Posts: 267	Krotann Whitetail 2000 and stock salt for 4 days, neutralize with baking soda for 4 minutes, wash with laundry detergent and rinse thoroughly. Drip dry and tack hair side down to 4x8 plywood to dry. Oil with neatsfoot and break in the dryer with a couple of pairs of old boots on unheated air dry until the flesh side is uniform white. A quart will do about 4 average whitetail hides. Not poison, very forgiving, excellent results. __________________ rr2241tx

November 5, 2010, 05:22 AM	#12
sc928porsche Senior Member Join Date: May 29, 2008 Location: now living in alabama Posts: 2,433	If you intend on saving the hide and having it tanned, then scrape the inside, lay it down on a tarp, cover the inside with rocksalt, roll it up into a tight roll and put into a bag. Cloth bag is best, but plastic will do. Store in a shady place untill you come home and then proceed to a tanner or if you really want to, get a tanning kit. I tried tanning once. The mess and stench was terrific. I send it out to get it done. __________________ No such thing as a stupid question. What is stupid is not asking it.