Remington 700 scope mount question

[610jjjsa]

I just found a new old stock Remington ADL 25-06. I have bought a 3x9 Nikon Prostaff that I am going to put on it and it will be used as an Alabama whitetail, hog, and coyote rifle. It's a good caliber to hunt anything here. I shouldnt have to take too many long shots being here in Alabama, but if I have to I want the setup to be able to. I know the 25/06 is about as flat a shooter as they come. I don't know what type mounts to put on this gun, I know a lot more about handguns, AR's and AK's than standard bolt action hunting guns. I know a lot of people just put some type of affordable Leupold mounts and rings that are not used in conjunction with a picatinny or weaver rail. I am going to get an one piece EGW picatinny scope base for remington 700, or a 1 piece picatinny base of very similar price anyways. Being its a standard hunting rifle which MOA should base should I get? More importantly what are a couple kinds of affordable rings that I should get to go on it? And where (if anywhere) should I use Loc tite in this whole process? Thanks a lot guys!

[MarkCO]

I have been taking my pic rail bases off of my long range rifles and going with Hybrid rings from Hawkins Precision. Lighter, better. I use a dot of Red Gel Locktite on each screw.

But they don't make 1" tube rings. As a second choice, look at the DNZ. One piece mount. 1" with 20 MOA is about $100 and a better set up for a hunting rig.

https://www.dnzproducts.com/product/...r-remington-3/

[44 AMP]

Millions of shooters have done fine for generations with Rem 700s and regular Weaver bases and rings on their hunting rifles. Or the regular stuff from other makers, one piece bases, two piece bases. regular rings. Weaver is good stuff and as inexpensive as it gets. (note, did not say "cheap")
The only drawback to Weaver is some people don't care for the look/style.

Its a deer rifle. Rails and special bases for extreme range shooter are useless accessories and a waste of $ on a deer rifle, and may even overcomplicate what should be a simple thing.

Building a tacticool sniper rifle? 1,000yd match gun? that's where those kinds of accessories go. Gonna shoot deer, pigs and varmints in Alabama? you don't need them.

Of course, that's just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it.

[LeverGunFan]

Welcome! I have a couple of Remington 700s with the old Redfield rotary dovetail mount, that style mount is still sold by Leupold as the standard (STD) series. If you are familiar with AR systems, then the Weaver/Picatinny mounts may be best for you. EGW makes good equipment, I have used an EGW base and rings on a Henry rifle. If you buy direct from EGW you can sometimes get the base and rings at a discount. They have the Practical ring series and the new Keystone scope ring series. One downside of the Weaver/Picatinny mount system that I have found is that it is more difficult to get the scope mounted low, so consider your sight picture and cheek weld when you select a mount.

[mehavey]

Being its a standard hunting rifle which MOA should base should I get?

Unless you plan regular shooting to be well beyond 500 yards, you want NO (zero) additional MOA built into the rail.

I also suggest purple (not red) Loctite

[hammie]

Let me start by sincerely stating that pretty much everyone on this forum is smarter than I am and I'm not disputing any advice in this thread. Loctite works fine. I 'm just simply puzzled by the obsession with it and the need for it. I have never had rings or bases shoot loose, or had a scope move in the rings, when the screws were tightened to the correct torque values (not using loctite). And that's up to and including a .300 Win Mag.

I would suggest to the original poster that he invest in a torque driver instead of a tube of loctite. Midway offers a Wheeler brand torque driver with torque values from 10 to 65 inch-pounds, for 60 dollars. At the very least, it will save you stripped threads in aluminum mounts.

[lefteye]

I have several rifles up to and including a .300 Mag. I'm 74 years old and have hunted for MANY years in many states. I NEVER used Loctite in scope rings or bases! And I have never had ANY problem with a scope, scope rings, or ring bases. I would NOT use Loctite in scope ring screws or scope ring base screws!!!

[jmr40]

It's a 3-9X scope. No one makes a 3X9 scope. Also you don't give objective size but 40mm is the most common. That would be a 3-9X40 scope. Rings come in different heights to clear the front bell. Most of the time low rings work with 40mm scopes, but medium may be a safer bet. Unless you have something closer to 50mm you don't need high rings.


You don't need anything fancy. You could probably find what you need at a local Walmart. The old Weaver bases and Rings are inexpensive and work as well as anything. Maybe not the most aesthetically pleasing, but they work.

You DO NOT want the dove tail mounts. They are expensive, heavy, hard to mount properly and not needed on modern rifles. They were invented years ago to allow shooters to get a scope zeroed if the mounting holes were drilled improperly. There was a time when rifles weren't drilled from the factory. This type of mount was designed to work if the gunsmith didn't get them drilled perfectly in line with the barrel.

https://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Mount-...s%2C185&sr=8-9

Any Weaver, or Weaver style ring will fit.

I like the Burris rings. Not the cheapest, but a good balance between looks and price.

https://www.amazon.com/Burris-420087...%2C212&sr=8-28

Walmart usually has these in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Weaver-49047-...%2C212&sr=8-39

If you want to spend more I do like the Talley Lightweights.

https://www.amazon.com/Talley-Model-...7788660&sr=8-3

With these you don't need a separate base.

[MarkCO]

Originally Posted by hammie

I would suggest to the original poster that he invest in a torque driver instead of a tube of loctite. Midway offers a Wheeler brand torque driver with torque values from 10 to 65 inch-pounds, for 60 dollars. At the very least, it will save you stripped threads in aluminum mounts.

That is good advice. For almost all of my rifles, I am the same, just proper torque, especially on steel mounts. The hidden screws of the one piece aluminum mounts, I torque to the manufacturers specs and that drop of Loctite as suspenders to the belt for sure.

[mehavey]

Failing any/all of the above....
Endless Passion Red Nail polish

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

Have a 700 mtn 1/4 bore 06. One thing I should have done when mounting its scope? I wish I would have bought (High) Leupold rings instead of Mediums. Its all about quickness of aim for me. (High's_ easier to focus when wearing glasses) And too such rings have a dual purpose. They make a great carry handle in the field. By the way. I use a two piece Leupold base having a Extended reach >front base. Sweet rifle. Shoots good and looks good too.

[Seedy Character]

I have NEVER used Lock-Tite on a scope. Nor, have i needed to.

Weaver works great.
I prefer a Redfield one piece base and rings
Zero MOA
Leupold and Burris are good options

Size of objective will effect height of rings needed. Mount scope as low as you can

[Pumpkin]

Stick with some good Redfield, Burris or Leupold rings and bases. Weaver rings will put some noticeable marks on the scope tube which could be problem if you ever decide to change out the scope and wish to sell the old one. 242 Loctite should be fine and keep everything in place.

[44 AMP]

I've been using Weaver rings and bases on riles since the 1960s. Including Remingtons. Calibers from .22LR to .458Win Mag. Never a drop of Loctite (of any kind) on any of them. Never needed it. For a while I did use a drop of nail polish, later enamel model paint, as a "torque-seal" but none ever showed any movement, so I stopped bothering with that, as well.

I did get scope one time, came with the rifle I was buying. The seller wanted to keep the scope, but couldn't get it off the mount (or out of the rings), because he had loctited it on a bit "too well", so he let it go with the gun with no charge. THey were not Weaver rings and while getting rings off the mount wasn't a huge chore, I wound up having to cut the screws clamping the ring halves together.

As to Weaver rings scratching the finish of a scope tube? Yep, it can happen, during installation or removal. And, if it does happen, its YOUR fault.
IF you're worried about that lowering the resale value of the scope, you can do what most of us did with used scopes back in the day, simply leave the rings on it when you sell it.

The rings are cheap, back in those days nearly everyone used Weaver rings and bases, and, if the new owner scratches the scope taking the rings off, that's on him!

[Pumpkin]

Weaver rings put marks, sometimes dents on scopes. Some of us like to keep good used scopes for other rifles and prefer they don't look all buggered up from a cheap scope ring. Some people don't use the correct fitting tool or secure the gun properly when working on it. I've even removed many a scope base screw that I had used 271 on.

[reynolds357]

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

Millions of shooters have done fine for generations with Rem 700s and regular Weaver bases and rings on their hunting rifles. Or the regular stuff from other makers, one piece bases, two piece bases. regular rings. Weaver is good stuff and as inexpensive as it gets. (note, did not say "cheap")
The only drawback to Weaver is some people don't care for the look/style.

Its a deer rifle. Rails and special bases for extreme range shooter are useless accessories and a waste of $ on a deer rifle, and may even overcomplicate what should be a simple thing.

Building a tacticool sniper rifle? 1,000yd match gun? that's where those kinds of accessories go. Gonna shoot deer, pigs and varmints in Alabama? you don't need them.

Of course, that's just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it.

I have had terrible luck with Weaver rings. The Grand Slam is the only Weaver ring I use. Their standard lower end stuff is just not durable. Maybe I am too rough on my hunting rifles, who knows?

[Road_Clam]

I have 9 different rifles that i play around with swapping scopes , testing handloads, subsonic supressed and so on. My goto rings are steel Warne Maxima's. I never loctite as i always want to easily remove the screws as needed for an optic swap. I do always torque to spec. No need for any base other than 0 moa base unless your shooting 1000+ yds. Never had any optics loosen on my rigs.

[std7mag]

Do NOT use the red Loctite on anything gun related, unless you want it permanently attached!!
The purple (222) is ok. The blue you can use also. The red needs heated to break loose.
Ask me how i know...

And yes, use an inch pound torque wrench!
The Wheeler Fat Wrench is running about $40.

I run EGW one piece bases on all my rifles that will take them.
If your planning on shooting under 500 yards, stick with the zero MOA bases.
If your wanting to do 500-1,000 yards go with the 20 MOA.

Their Hunter line of bases have the butt end beveled to keep from interfering with the zoom ring, and are nice to have.

EGW bases are kinda tall. Hence you can get by with low height rings.
I'm running a 10-50X60 Sightron SIII in low rings on my wife's Savage 110FP.

While your on EGW's website, check out their Keystone line of rings. ($69)
They are a bit on the heavy side (2.25 ounces each), but are seriously sturdy!
Zero movement with hot loads in my 7mm Rem Mag.

[Drm50]

I started in 60s with Weaver bases and rings. You have to use a modicum of intelligence putting ring on tube. I always put masking tape on tube to snap ring on. This is where most guys scratch their tube. Once on , slide ring where you want it and take tape off. Taking ring off slide heavy paper under it and pop off. If you dent tube you shouldn’t be playing with guns. Over the years if I replaced a scope or bought new one I used Leupold or Redfield one piece bases where possible and their rings. For off the rack Sporter weight rifles anything more is not necessary.

[reinert]

+1 on post #3. Lots of good info on this site, so welcome to it! I use the blue loctite on the scope mount screws and holes; like it.

[Don Fischer]

Originally Posted by MarkCO

I have been taking my pic rail bases off of my long range rifles and going with Hybrid rings from Hawkins Precision. Lighter, better. I use a dot of Red Gel Locktite on each screw.

But they don't make 1" tube rings. As a second choice, look at the DNZ. One piece mount. 1" with 20 MOA is about $100 and a better set up for a hunting rig.

https://www.dnzproducts.com/product/...r-remington-3/

If you ever want to remove those screw's be prepared to got to a gunsmith and have him do it. DON"T USE RED LOCKTITE! Voice of experience!

[bamaranger]

I don't see the need for any type of picatinny rail on a sporter to be used on the game you describe with the scope you have in your possession. Two piece bases of aluminum may be a bit lighter, and steel bases might be a bit stronger and resist abuse better. Take your pick. There are some who believe that a one piece base stiffens the action and aids accuracy, on a box stock sporter the advantage offered may not be significant enough to really matter when shooting at game under 300 yds.

I don't care for Weaver rings, especially the old style with the big nut/slottted screw on the side. To me their ugly and spoil the lines of the rifle. I've become a fan of the Burris Zee rings, mainly due to their sleek, stylish lines.

[GeauxTide]

I have EGW rails on 5 700s and a 788 and they are spectacular. I have replaced my Nikon scopes with Vortex and highly recommend their Pro Picatinny Rings. All of my EGW are 0 MOA because I'm not shooting 1000 yards. I also recommend the Wheeler Torque driver. The Vortex rings list the torque setting for base and rings. I confess that I do use a drop of blue Loctite on the rings.