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October 12, 2010, 08:13 PM | #3476 |
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ThomasH,
Don't feel bad, I get confused with the tables also. You have to do some interpolating. On page 399, under J serial prefixes 1971 to 1972, it shows J1 to 999J99. The J1 is a typo, it should read 1J1. 4J would fall between 1J and 999J, which was also known as the floating J years. On page 400, AWTXXXX would fall between AVB8654 in July 87 to AWW7874 also in July 87. S&W started the three letter prefix in 1980 and things got real confusing from there because they make allot of special runs with serial numbers out of sequence. To make matters worse, the semi autos use their own serial sequence which jumps all over the place and is not up to date. Another issue is when S&W makes a frame they stamp the serial number at that time. However, the frame may not be assembled into a gun and shipped for quite some time. The serial number of my 629 Classic DX dates it to 1997 and yet I have the test target with it dated May 1996 and the original purchase receipt dated Sept. 1996. The thing to remember is S&W makes guns first. Serial numbers are something that they have to put on them and unfortunantly, they don't assign them for the convenience of collectors. The book provides a wealth of knowledge on their guns. The serial number tables are really just guides to get you in the range. They charge $50 to research the actual ship date of a gun, which includes other history as well on it. Jim Last edited by laytonj1; October 12, 2010 at 08:27 PM. |
October 17, 2010, 03:34 PM | #3477 |
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hi ive got an 1982 model 37 can i shoot +p's ?
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October 17, 2010, 03:59 PM | #3478 |
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Serial search S&W 29-6
Just bought a beautiful Smith&Wesson Model 29-6 (.44 magnum - 8" barrel).
Does anyone has more information about this handgun (age, …) or has any experience using it ? Serial nr.: BPG99XX Thanks Last edited by Glenn E. Meyer; November 30, 2013 at 11:47 AM. |
October 17, 2010, 04:00 PM | #3479 | |
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Quote:
Some folks on the S&W forum have fired 1000's of +P from their 37's with no ill effect but not all +P's are created equal. For example, Buffalo Bore makes a +P that produces low end 357 power levels that I would not fire it in my own 37. Jim Last edited by laytonj1; October 17, 2010 at 04:37 PM. Reason: fixed grammer |
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October 17, 2010, 04:08 PM | #3480 | |
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Quote:
One of the better years for model 29's. It was made after all the strength enhancements and prior to the MIM era. Jim |
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October 17, 2010, 04:14 PM | #3481 | |
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Quote:
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October 17, 2010, 04:22 PM | #3482 |
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thanks for the help man
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October 17, 2010, 10:33 PM | #3483 |
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Hey guys, I am new to the forum and just picked up a 625-8 sn: CFV519XX and was wonder how old it was.
Also I am sure I am ok but there should be no reason I shouldnt use +p in for hunting purposes. |
October 18, 2010, 01:24 AM | #3484 |
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S&W .38, when is it "born"
Hi,
Anyone who could tell me when my "new" S&W is "born") Serial# K527xxx Miqe |
October 18, 2010, 07:57 AM | #3485 |
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thekevin: I think you've got an extra "X" in that serial number - assuming that to be the case, the CFV prefix corresponds to 2003. As a -8, your 625 should be chambered for .45 ACP, in which case any +p ammo should be fine (not sure that it's a good cartridge for what you're planning to hunt, however).
SCSW notes that there's a bit of confusion regarding which calibers certain 625 variations are chambered for, so it's possible (I think) that you have a .45 Colt, in which case the +p story gets a bit more complicated. To the best of my knowledge, unlike many cartridges, there is no SAAMI pressure standard for .45 Colt +p. That gives manufacturers carte blanche to do pretty much whatever they or their lawyers think they can get away with. I have no doubt that a 625 can handle some .45 Colt +p loads, and similarly have no doubt that some of them (thinking here of the Cor-Bon so-called .45 Colt "Magnum" loads intended for Rugers and the like) would be risky. If it were my gun, I wouldn't do it - but I tend to be conservative when it comes to the potential for losing body parts. Mige: 1963 |
October 18, 2010, 08:24 AM | #3486 |
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Thank You FlyFish
Compliments from Sweden! Does anyone know if there is a similar forum for Colt revolvers |
October 18, 2010, 08:29 AM | #3487 |
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Hi Mige - I failed to notice where you were posting from when I replied originally. Welcome to the forum. What model S&W do you have? Could you tell us a little bit about gun laws in Sweden and the hoops (I assume) you need to jump through to own a handgun?
ETA: Colt Forum is here: http://coltforum.com/ S&W Forum here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/ SIG Forum: http://www.sigforum.com/ I think with a bit of Googling you could likely find a dedicated forum for just about any major firearms manufacturer. |
October 18, 2010, 10:53 AM | #3488 |
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Mine is .45acp, I am itching to kill a deer with it this year is the reason I am looking at the cor bon +p rounds, I will double check my serial at lunch today.
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October 18, 2010, 05:31 PM | #3489 |
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Yes, I did put an extra X in the serial, thanks for all the other information.
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October 18, 2010, 06:55 PM | #3490 |
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Hello gentlemen - I just bought my first firearm and it's a model 60 pin barrel 38. I was wondering if you would be kind enough to date it for me as i can't justify buying the book for my one and only pistol.
the serial number is R - 3XXX (only 4 digits) S&W Model 60 |
October 18, 2010, 08:32 PM | #3491 |
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The "R" prefix is one of the more uncommon on S&W revolvers - it was used only for the Models 60 and 651 (doesn't add anything to the value, just a point of interest). Your R3XXX number indicates the gun dates from 1969, the first year the R prefix was used. The range that year was from R1 to R3000.
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October 18, 2010, 10:02 PM | #3492 |
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who do i find out how old my gun is
ihave a gun with serial number 6k50xxx and I dont know what year it was made
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October 18, 2010, 10:43 PM | #3493 |
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Hi Jim.
This one belongs to a good friend of mine. Mod 36 3" barrel, nickel, round butt. S/N J2337xx. DOB? Appreciate your help. |
October 19, 2010, 12:31 AM | #3494 |
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Hi FlyFish,
and Thank You! I got one .22 (M17) and one .38 (M14) S&W revolver. Both have 6" barrels. In Sweden You have to join a shooting club and take a "class" (10x 3 hours). Lots of shooting, reading laws and most important - SAFETY, SAFETY! The education is like the green card for golf. That´s the first step, then You have to be a "active" member for at least 6 months to get Your first license (for .22 caliber gun). If You are approved by the Police of course. You should not have any record at the Police for violence etc. After 6 more months You can file for the larger caliber guns. That is if You can proove that You are active in the club helping at contests, help cleaning the club houses and that You join shooting contests and practice hours. It´s the board of the shooting club who approves and send information to the police. Sooooo, it´s a long way to get a gun in Sweden - not so easy as in US. I just got my license for .32 Hämmerli pistol, 9mm. CZ pistol, .38 3" Colt revolver and a .38 6" S&W revolver (I got a .22 Pardini pistol and a S&W .22 6" revolver since April this year). I joined my club a year ago, so now I can practice "for real" My club has several guns in different calibers that members could borrow, but just at practice hours. You are not supposed to have guns or ammo at home when You don´t have any license. You can´t even have ammo like .38 at home when You don´t have a license for a .38 gun (silly). It´s not the same to borrow a gun then to have Your own Last edited by Miqe; October 19, 2010 at 01:01 AM. |
October 19, 2010, 01:16 AM | #3495 |
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Thanks so much flyfish - I appreciate that very much. I suspect I overpayed ($450) for the gun but I love it and preferred it to the newer airlights that were only slightly more expensive, it feels heftier.
If I understand correctly then the gun is a 1970 model because the serial is higher than 3000? |
October 19, 2010, 06:43 AM | #3496 |
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Sorry, I misposted the number of zeroes in the SN range. 1969 would be correct; the ending SN that year was R30000 (R plus 5 numerical digits). As yours has only 4 numbers following the R, it would be 1969. Assuming the gun is in nice shape, you wouldn't have overpayed much, if at all, in this neck of the woods - prices for good used S&W revolvers are going through the roof.
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October 19, 2010, 06:45 AM | #3497 |
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Ignacio49: 1974
ashcan: 1974 on yours as well. |
October 19, 2010, 06:58 AM | #3498 |
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Thank you FlyFish.
Regards from Venezuela. |
October 19, 2010, 01:08 PM | #3499 |
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HI all new to the forum!
I have a S&W 38 4" barrel serial number c881xxx Was wandering if anyone could tell me when it was made,model and anything else about it. Thanks. |
October 19, 2010, 04:52 PM | #3500 | |
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Quote:
If it has a steel frame it is a model 10, an aluminum frame would be a model 12. Jim |
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