Pietta 1851 Wedge Removal

ClemBert · July 25, 2009, 04:59 PM

So as an engineer I have to ask this question....what kind of

jack azz

designs a firearm to use a wedge to hold a barrel onto a frame?...oh yeah, that'd be Samuel Colt. Sammy must have gone to the same school as those guys who design cars where you have to remove one of the motor mounts and jack the car engine up to remove the oil filter.

Okay, next question. Anyone have any suggestions for removing said wedge out of a Pietta 1851 Navy revolver? So I turned a copper penny on is side and held it with a pair of plyers on the right side of the wedge and beat on it until the copper penny was destroyed. Wedge didn't even budge. The wedge is sitting almost flush on the right hand side. Maybe I just need to shoot the crap outta it one day with the largest charges I can fit in the cylinder...maybe that'll loosen things up.

So far I'm a big fan of the Remington 1858 and the ROA. Sammy can bite me on the azz for now.

Hawg · July 25, 2009, 05:10 PM

Use a penny made before 1982 or get a brass punch.

ClemBert · July 25, 2009, 05:29 PM

Did you leave out the part where I'm supposed to wait until a full moon then stand on my head and bark while beating on the penny?

Hawg · July 25, 2009, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Did you leave out the part where I'm supposed to wait until a full moon then stand on my head and bark while beating on the penny?

Dang, I knew I was forgetting something.

I figured it was a zinc penny you were using. Might try heating it in boiling water first or get a brass punch. If you're careful and have a piece of scrap leather you might try a steel punch. Wedges are pretty tight in a new gun. However the more they're removed the easier it gets.

madcratebuilder · July 25, 2009, 06:54 PM

Quote:

So I turned a copper penny on is side and held it with a pair of plyers on the right side of the wedge and beat on it until the copper penny was destroyed.

Copper penny=incorrect tool.

You need to use a 1/8 inch brass punch and a 12-14 oz ball peen hammer. Support the revolver on the left side between two pieces of wood(2X4). Give it a good whack. Using a penny is trying to impact all the energy in to a very small area, that's why it bends. A 1/8 inch punch is .125 inch, most 51 wedges are .135-.140 inch. By using a brass punch you well not damage the surface of the gun or wedge.

arcticap · July 25, 2009, 07:14 PM

I recently removed a really tight 1860 wedge by wacking it with a large, cheap rubber mallet. Using a lot of force it finally moved, then I used some wood to punch it out the rest of the way.
The last owner must have forced it in too far and it was deformed.

Hawg · July 25, 2009, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Copper penny=incorrect tool.

That's true but it usually works. Most everybody can come up with a penny. Not everybody can come up with a brass punch.

ClemBert · July 25, 2009, 10:06 PM

Yeah, it shouldn't have to take a brass punch (something I don't have) to remove the wedge. A penny should work fine if it weren't for that big Italian gorilla at the Pietta factory.

jcowan · July 26, 2009, 07:16 AM

My favorite wedge removal tool is chopsticks. I cut them in half and have 2 rectangular punches and 2 round punches with rectangular tops. Most chinese restaurants have cheap soft wood chopsticks but the sushi place a few miles away has the good hard wood ones. I use the rectangular punch for the wedge. Sometimes if it is really stuck the punch will flatten out on the end, but I like sushi so I have an unlimited free supply.

madcratebuilder · July 26, 2009, 07:18 AM

Using a copper penny on a wedge is akin to using a pair of pliers to tighten a hex head bolt. If it works for you, go for it

I hope your not using an old Craftsman screwdriver to loosen screws.

Quote:

My favorite wedge removal tool is chopsticks.

I use them for seating caps, I'll have to try one on a tight wedge next time I'm in the field.

olmontanaboy · July 26, 2009, 07:31 AM

Quote:

chopsticks.

Confucius say: chopsticks = a tool for getting chop-suey from plate to chops.
Not for wedge that hold barrel on gun

jcowan · July 26, 2009, 08:15 AM

I use the round part for seating caps also.

Hawg · July 26, 2009, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Using a copper penny on a wedge is akin to using a pair of pliers to tighten a hex head bolt. If it works for you, go for it

I know it's not proper but it usually works when folks have problems getting a wedge out. Like I said before everybody has a penny laying around. Not everybody has a brass punch when they need one.

Quote:

I hope your not using an old Craftsman screwdriver to loosen screws.

Course not, I've got a Swiss Army knife.

ClemBert · July 26, 2009, 08:50 AM

Quote:

I hope your not using an old Craftsman screwdriver to loosen screws.

Naw, I use a penny for slotted screws.

ClemBert · July 28, 2009, 07:34 PM

So...I should use a brass punch huh? Well I don't have one and I looked at Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, AutoZone, etc. for one. No one carries one. Yeah, I can order one online but then I have to wait 7 to 9 business days for it to show up. I know...I'll just make one.

This is going to be a 50 cent version of a brass punch made from a 3" #14 solid brass screw.

I'll just take a file and file the end of that baby down to 1/8th inch.

Check it out...this is gonna work great. It has a huge head to hit it with. Even I can't miss this sucker with a hammer. And, instead a a knurled area to hold it with the remaining screw threads make it easy to grip. That wedge is gonna scream "uncle" when I introduce it to my new brass punch.

NOT!!!!!!

Argh!!! Does anyone have any dynamite laying around???? I know...I'll call 911 and ask them if I can borrow their "Jaws of Life".

p.s. Mr. Colt you can still bite my azz...as can you Mr. Pietta gorilla man.

SCORE: Gorilla 2 ClemBert 0

crstrode · July 28, 2009, 08:15 PM

Most any hardware store has plain brass rod.

Very handy stuff for C&B revolvers.

I have a short one- about 2-inches long that I use exclusively for tapping out the wedges.

Yes, Guido the Wedge Killer still works at the Pietta factory. Last revolver I bought new in the box took several whacks with a ball peen hammer and my short 1/8 inch diameter brass rod.

Madecratebuilder is correct a brass punch will work every time.

I also keep a 9-inch long piece of the rod in my field kit. Great as a patch pusher and a ball poker-outer.

A smaller diameter rod is great for poking balls outta the cylinder now and then.

ClemBert · July 28, 2009, 08:39 PM

My home made brass punch is actually a lot heavier duty than a 1/8th inch brass rod. See the pic...the tip on that thing is 1/8th inch (0.125). The place where it bent is 0.200 inches. Your 1/8th rod would have given out much sooner than mine.

ClemBert · July 28, 2009, 09:04 PM

Okay...now time to break out the heavy artillery, the Jaws of Life. Well, maybe not the Jaws of Life but a big azz vice. Yeah, that's the ticket. We are going to show that wedge who is boss. We are going to press on that sucker till it bleeds and screams "uncle".

First we cut a 6" chunk of 2x4 and drill a hole where the left side of the wedge protrudes.

Ah, a perfect fit. Plenty of room for that wedge to slide out without touching the vice.

Now this time we aren't gonna play paddy cake. We are serious about showing that wedge we rule. This time we take the upper 0.850 portion of that brass screw where the neck has a 1/4" thickness to it.

Then with a file we angle the end so we have a nice wide flat area with thickness of 1/8th inch.

Time for assembling "The Wedge Killer". Wood block with wedge hole on left. 1851 in the middle. Then the new heavy duty punch on the right side. All sitting nicely in position in the vice.

A view from the bottom. Anyone care to wager who wins this battle? ClemBert or the Gorilla?

olmontanaboy · July 28, 2009, 09:20 PM

I'm bettin on the gorilla,,,,,,,but rootin for Clembert

EmptyHull · July 29, 2009, 03:48 AM

Clem you da man!

I use the back end of a large wooden knife handle. Tim

Noz · July 29, 2009, 10:21 AM

Keep us posted. I've never heard of a wedge being that tight. Usually a small rubber faced hammer is enough.

olmontanaboy · July 29, 2009, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Keep us posted. I've never heard of a wedge being that tight. Usually a small rubber faced hammer is enough.

I had the very same problem with a Pietta 1860 army that I bought from Cabelas. This one I picked out in person, it was the nicest of three they had in stock. I checked it out pretty good, or so I thought, I did not pull the wedge in the store. A few days later I got around to degreasing and disacembling the gun, I tried everything to get the wedge out. I finally made A brass drift concave to fit the wedge face.I placed the barrel on a hard non marring surface with a space to allow the wedge to go into, with someone holding the pistol in place I smacked the sucker with 3lb. mall repeatdly to no advail. I knew if I kept at this I would have damaged the pistol and decided that if the wedge was in this tight their might be some alinement problems with the arbor or the wedge slot might not be cut corectly, I will never know, I returned the army to Cabelas and told them why. I bought a Pietta Rem 58 with the refund. I have a 61 Pietta Navy from Cabelas that's perfect and the wedge came out with a sharp rap from a light hardwood hammer

MacGille · July 29, 2009, 12:33 PM

I had to use a form fitting block, a steel pusher, and a 2 ton arbor press. Came right out.

olmontanaboy · July 29, 2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Came right out.

LOL, Guess I didn't use a big enough hammer

ClemBert · July 29, 2009, 03:17 PM

So...who bet on the Gorilla and who bet on ClemBert?

Does this picture give up the answer?

ClemBert tips his hat to the Pietta Gorilla. He won hands down. ClemBert and his vice were no match for the Gorilla. The wedge didn't budge a micrometer and ClemBert's 1/4" brass wedge killing punch bent under the pressure. The 2x4 block started to crush under the pressure so I stopped.

Gorilla 3 ClemBert 0

July 28, 2009, 07:34 PM	#15
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	So...I should use a brass punch huh? Well I don't have one and I looked at Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, AutoZone, etc. for one. No one carries one. Yeah, I can order one online but then I have to wait 7 to 9 business days for it to show up. I know...I'll just make one. This is going to be a 50 cent version of a brass punch made from a 3" #14 solid brass screw. I'll just take a file and file the end of that baby down to 1/8th inch. Check it out...this is gonna work great. It has a huge head to hit it with. Even I can't miss this sucker with a hammer. And, instead a a knurled area to hold it with the remaining screw threads make it easy to grip. That wedge is gonna scream "uncle" when I introduce it to my new brass punch. NOT!!!!!! Argh!!! Does anyone have any dynamite laying around???? I know...I'll call 911 and ask them if I can borrow their "Jaws of Life". p.s. Mr. Colt you can still bite my azz...as can you Mr. Pietta gorilla man. SCORE: Gorilla 2 ClemBert 0 Last edited by ClemBert; July 28, 2009 at 07:41 PM.

July 28, 2009, 08:15 PM	#16
crstrode Member Join Date: August 13, 2008 Posts: 41	Brass rod from the hardware store. Most any hardware store has plain brass rod. Very handy stuff for C&B revolvers. I have a short one- about 2-inches long that I use exclusively for tapping out the wedges. Yes, Guido the Wedge Killer still works at the Pietta factory. Last revolver I bought new in the box took several whacks with a ball peen hammer and my short 1/8 inch diameter brass rod. Madecratebuilder is correct a brass punch will work every time. I also keep a 9-inch long piece of the rod in my field kit. Great as a patch pusher and a ball poker-outer. A smaller diameter rod is great for poking balls outta the cylinder now and then.

July 28, 2009, 09:20 PM	#19
olmontanaboy Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Northeast for now Posts: 266	I'm bettin on the gorilla,,,,,,,but rootin for Clembert __________________ Olmontanaboy No good deed goes unpunished. A loaded gun, a faithful dog,,, consider yourself lucky.

July 29, 2009, 12:33 PM	#23
MacGille Senior Member Join Date: July 6, 2006 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 976	I had to use a form fitting block, a steel pusher, and a 2 ton arbor press. Came right out. __________________ If ye love wealth better than Liberty, the tranquillity of servitude than the animated contest of Freedom, go from us in Peace. We ask not your counsel or Arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen. --Samuel Adams--<*ixoye><

July 25, 2009, 04:59 PM	#1
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Pietta 1851 Wedge Removal So as an engineer I have to ask this question....what kind of jack azz designs a firearm to use a wedge to hold a barrel onto a frame?...oh yeah, that'd be Samuel Colt. Sammy must have gone to the same school as those guys who design cars where you have to remove one of the motor mounts and jack the car engine up to remove the oil filter. Okay, next question. Anyone have any suggestions for removing said wedge out of a Pietta 1851 Navy revolver? So I turned a copper penny on is side and held it with a pair of plyers on the right side of the wedge and beat on it until the copper penny was destroyed. Wedge didn't even budge. The wedge is sitting almost flush on the right hand side. Maybe I just need to shoot the crap outta it one day with the largest charges I can fit in the cylinder...maybe that'll loosen things up. So far I'm a big fan of the Remington 1858 and the ROA. Sammy can bite me on the azz for now.

July 25, 2009, 05:10 PM	#2
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	Use a penny made before 1982 or get a brass punch.

July 25, 2009, 05:29 PM	#3
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Did you leave out the part where I'm supposed to wait until a full moon then stand on my head and bark while beating on the penny?

July 25, 2009, 07:14 PM	#6
arcticap Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2005 Location: Central Connecticut Posts: 3,166	I recently removed a really tight 1860 wedge by wacking it with a large, cheap rubber mallet. Using a lot of force it finally moved, then I used some wood to punch it out the rest of the way. The last owner must have forced it in too far and it was deformed.

July 25, 2009, 10:06 PM	#8
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Yeah, it shouldn't have to take a brass punch (something I don't have) to remove the wedge. A penny should work fine if it weren't for that big Italian gorilla at the Pietta factory.

July 26, 2009, 07:16 AM	#9
jcowan Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Posts: 68	My favorite wedge removal tool is chopsticks. I cut them in half and have 2 rectangular punches and 2 round punches with rectangular tops. Most chinese restaurants have cheap soft wood chopsticks but the sushi place a few miles away has the good hard wood ones. I use the rectangular punch for the wedge. Sometimes if it is really stuck the punch will flatten out on the end, but I like sushi so I have an unlimited free supply.

July 26, 2009, 08:15 AM	#12
jcowan Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Posts: 68	I use the round part for seating caps also.

July 28, 2009, 08:39 PM	#17
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	My home made brass punch is actually a lot heavier duty than a 1/8th inch brass rod. See the pic...the tip on that thing is 1/8th inch (0.125). The place where it bent is 0.200 inches. Your 1/8th rod would have given out much sooner than mine.

July 28, 2009, 09:04 PM	#18
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Okay...now time to break out the heavy artillery, the Jaws of Life. Well, maybe not the Jaws of Life but a big azz vice. Yeah, that's the ticket. We are going to show that wedge who is boss. We are going to press on that sucker till it bleeds and screams "uncle". First we cut a 6" chunk of 2x4 and drill a hole where the left side of the wedge protrudes. Ah, a perfect fit. Plenty of room for that wedge to slide out without touching the vice. Now this time we aren't gonna play paddy cake. We are serious about showing that wedge we rule. This time we take the upper 0.850 portion of that brass screw where the neck has a 1/4" thickness to it. Then with a file we angle the end so we have a nice wide flat area with thickness of 1/8th inch. Time for assembling "The Wedge Killer". Wood block with wedge hole on left. 1851 in the middle. Then the new heavy duty punch on the right side. All sitting nicely in position in the vice. A view from the bottom. Anyone care to wager who wins this battle? ClemBert or the Gorilla?

July 29, 2009, 03:48 AM	#20
EmptyHull Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2009 Posts: 145	Clem you da man! I use the back end of a large wooden knife handle. Tim

July 29, 2009, 10:21 AM	#21
Noz Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Posts: 643	Keep us posted. I've never heard of a wedge being that tight. Usually a small rubber faced hammer is enough.

July 29, 2009, 03:17 PM	#25
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	So...who bet on the Gorilla and who bet on ClemBert? Does this picture give up the answer? ClemBert tips his hat to the Pietta Gorilla. He won hands down. ClemBert and his vice were no match for the Gorilla. The wedge didn't budge a micrometer and ClemBert's 1/4" brass wedge killing punch bent under the pressure. The 2x4 block started to crush under the pressure so I stopped. Gorilla 3 ClemBert 0