Ruger Super Blackhawk troubleshooting question.

[riverratt]

I have a new model super blackhawk bisley that has been absolutely superb for years with no issues other then the pin in the rear sight backing out after I replaced the OEM with fiber optics. I purchased this firearm new in '06 and only modification other then the sights was a 2# lighter hammer sping. The gun has is likely somewhere between the 15k and 20k round count mark the vast majority of which have been a modest recoiling load of either unique or HS-6 giving either 1100fps or 1300fps responsibility with a 265gr cast bullet out of my 7.5" barrel.

Today at the range something happened twice that has left me a bit concerned. The 1st time I was 4 shots into a cylinder when after firing the trigger forced my finger out to what I call the reset position (position where the trigger is after the hammer is cocked) but the hammer was still down in the fired position. I couldn't cock it to fire the next round and had to remove the cylinder. I thought perhaps it was a load issue but all cases were easily removed with just fingernails under the rims. I replaced the cylinder and cycled through the cylinder checking for proper lockup and everything seemed fine (at least safe) so I continued shooting thinking (hoping) ot was a fluke. Several more rounds in, ~30, it happened again, this time a with a box loaded as hunting ammo so every powder charge was weighed rather then measured and loaded individually on a single stage in an attempt to make the most accurate rounds possible. So now at least I can definitely rule out something ammo related.

I haven't ventured into the inner working yet just checked lockup and cylinder alignment, cylinder gap is still very tight visually but didn't have my feeler gauges with me. I seriously doubt either one of those are the issue. I'll likely disassemble it tomorrow and start looking for anything that looks "off", I'm not familiar with the internal workings of a revolver but I'm very mechanically inclined so it shouldn't be anything I can't handle.

Any suggestions on anything particular to focus my attention to or ideas on what is happening that can narrow my search?

[stinkeypete]

I’m no expert, but love the Blackhawk. Clearly, you do, too.

There are good YouTube videos on stripping the Blackhawk, but before diving in… have you done an internal cleaning after those years of use? Let’s hope it’s a buildup of crud from those 15k rounds and a generous flush with Hornady One Shot will flush it clean.

Like anything, it’ll be easier to take apart than put back together. Often there is some little trick on how you hold something as you flip it upside down that makes all the difference.

If it was me, I would call Ruger customer service first and ask their opinion. They’re awesome.

I admire the determination to fully disassemble your Blackhawk. It would be nice to have a plan in place in case you have trouble putting it back together.

Your non-stock springs will be replaced at the factory with stock parts. That’s how Ruger does things. That’s why doing it yourself has advantage. And always keep your stock springs so you can keep your lighter springs safe at home when sending for service.

[44 AMP]

some time ago, Ruger adopted a policy about guns sent to them for repair, and that was to return the gun to the condition it was in when it left the factory.

After market parts will be replaced with standard Ruger stock parts. This could include your fiberoptic sights. Best check with Ruger on that.

Since the malfunction only happened twice, and not constantly, it suggests there is a piece of something loose inside that is jamming the mechanism at irregular intervals. This could be a broken part or it could be "crud" of some kind, only an inspection will tell.

The mechanism is not terribly complex, and anyone with decent mechanical skills, PROPER INTSTRUCTION and the correct tools should be able to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the gun, without damaging it.

I suggest doing that (or having a qualified person do it) and then testing to dsee if the malfunction happens again. If not, go shoot and enjoy. If it does, time to call Ruger.

Good Luck!

[mulespurs]

My guess is that the pin that holds in the cylinder worked out part way and then the transfer bar hits the rear of the firing pin and will not allow you to cock your pistol.

The cylinder pin has a spring loaded plunger on the internal end that pushes the transfer bar back allowing it to cock normally.

If you take out the cylinder and cylinder pin the gun probably will not want to cock and if you look you will see the transfer bar interfere with the firing pin rear protrusion.

If you jam on it you can fracture your transfer bar and then you have some more grief to deal with.

So push in your cylinder pin and see if you fixed it

Let us know

[riverratt]

Mulespurs may be on to something. I disassembled the revolver today and there was quite a generous amount of beeswax build-up around the bottom of the hammer and the transfer bar. As part of my maintenance I would hold the gun upside down and hit the firing pin, paw and hammer side of the transfer bar with some syn safe gun scrubber to flush out debris and build-up from bullet lube but it appears that I may have unintentionally relocated it deeper and may have gummed it up. At least I hope that's all that's wrong. Next range day will be about 3 weekends from now so hopefully I'll find out then.

Thanks for the input so far it has been helpful, especially the part about replacing factory parts if I have to send the gun back to Ruger. Damn shame this malfunction occurred on a day that I was on, I was ringing the 36" dong at 350 yards 5 out of 6 shots. Quite impressive for me but I suppose all good things must come to an end. LOL

[mulespurs]

Just be sure that the cylinder pin is fully seated to the rear and locked in place. If it works forward it will alow the transfer bar to interfer with the rear of the firing pin.

You should be able to cock and dry fire (unloaded of course) at home smoothly,
before you go to the range.

[4V50 Gary]

Now that you've identified and removed the possible source of the problem (built up wax), I'd test fire it before sending it back.

[riverratt]

It cocks just fine, always did expect 2 times under recoil. Hopefully it was just the pin compressing under recoil and not resetting quick enough.

[4V50 Gary]

Sluggish? Clean it better.

[riverratt]

Nothing seemed to be sluggish but my house isn't 25° like it was at the range the other day. I got all of the beeswax out and gave everything a light coat of Rem oil before reassembling. I cleaned the gun the same way I was taught by my grandfather years ago, he always emphasized to never take the gun apart on a revolver as you can mess the timing up and there was never any need to clean anything inside.

[FrankenMauser]

You won't mess up the timing by taking it apart.
You may lose something - or if careless or too forceful, break something.

Ruger single actions are dirt simple. But there is an order of operations to follow. Otherwise, it doesn't want to come apart or go back together without 'self-clearancing'.

[4V50 Gary]

We're here to help with the reassembly.

[riverratt]

Ok, so I was able to hit the range for a couple hours this afternoon before work. I got about 50ish rounds in and the lock-up occurred again. This time I was at the range alone and no RSO so I was able to do a thorough inspection at the table behind the firing line. (Outdoor range and of course kept it pointed down range) What I found was that the spring that is under the loading gate had slipped out the front side of the loading gate. I popped it back in place with a small pin punch and continued firing. It did it again after another 20 or so rounds, both times was on the 2nd shot after reloading. It appears that I've found the culprit and will likely contact Ruger for either a new spring, loading gate or both depending upon their recommendation. It does appear that where the spring sets on the loading gate there is a slight taper, possibly from wear and the spring itself is ever so slightly bent outward.

I did disassemble the gun and "finessed" the spring back to be bent ever so slightly to the rear of the gun before reassembly. It ran the remaining 30 or so rounds flawlessly but I feel this is a bandaid to a larger issue.

[BobCat45]

Congratulations!

Finding an elusive cause for a malfunction is a marvelous treat. Your careful, methodical approach paid off!

Much of what I did for a living revolved around failure analysis. Sometimes root causes are obvious but usually some careful examination, thought, and observation are required.

Now you know more about that revolver, how it works and how it can fail to work properly, than most people - and that is just outright cool.

[FrankenMauser]

You may need a new spring and loading gate; or some loading gate massaging.
My least favorite part of the Ruger single-actions is loading gate spring geometry (and sharp edges left on when hardened).
If your 20k round estimate is correct, the loading gate may just be worn out and need some attention (or replacement).