S&W Air weight problem

Doug Ridley · September 5, 2021, 05:11 AM

I have a squib bullet stuck in the barrel with a live bullet behind it. Cannot rotate the cylinder or get the bullet out of the barrel. Stuck bullet is about 1/4 " from the end of the barrel. Any ideas on how to remove the bullet from the barrel?

**JohnKSa** · September 5, 2021, 06:00 AM

If the squib bullet is preventing the cylinder from rotating or opening, then how could a live round have gotten behind the squib?

When you say 1/4" from the end of the barrel and that the cylinder won't rotate, I assume you mean 1/4" from the forcing cone, not 1/4" from the muzzle.

Assuming all of the above is true, then there isn't a live round behind the squib. Assuming that one of the chambers is lined up with the bore properly, the solution is to drive the bullet back into the cylinder out of the barrel. I think that the alignment assumption is safe if the cylinder won't rotate--the bullet is almost certainly sticking into the chamber slightly and locking the cylinder up.

You'll need a solid brass, bronze or steel rod that is close to bore diameter. Do NOT use a wooden dowel. Don't use a cleaning rod or a pipe. Don't use any soft metal that will easily deform. The metal rod really needs to be close to bore diameter so that you engage as much of the nose of the bullet as possible so you don't just drive the rod into the bullet. Having the rod diameter close to the bore diameter also helps prevent the end of the rod from getting pointed into the rifling and damaging the bore.

Wrap a layer or two of masking tape around the rod near the end and do the same at the point on the rod that is just inside the muzzle when it is in as far as it will go. This is to protect the rifling and the crown.

The rod needs to be straight.

Figure out a way to hold the revolver firmly without marring the frame or damaging any of the moving parts.

Insert the rod in the muzzle and drive the bullet back into the cylinder. Keep the rod lined up with the bore as closely as possible. One way to do that is to build layers of masking tape so that the rod fits the bore pretty well.

Pull the rod out FREQUENTLY to make sure it is not bending or deforming and check the tape frequently to make sure it is not getting torn up. If the rod starts to bend or deform, replace it and keep going. If the tape starts to get torn up, take it off, replace it with new tape and keep going.

You can make this a lot worse if you get in a hurry or try to use a wood rod or let the rod deform or bend. If you don't have a rod that is close to the right size and made of the right material, wait until you can get one. If you don't want to take your time and do it right, then leave it alone and take the revolver to a good gunsmith.

Doug Ridley · September 5, 2021, 07:05 AM

I think I was mistaken about the live round. The squib is about a quarter inch from the muzzle end and the cylinder will not open. Can I just use a brass rod and drive it back into the cylinder?

Drm50 · September 5, 2021, 07:14 AM

I can’t picture this. Squib has to be not totally in barrel to do this. I’ve never saw a S&W of any model with 1/4” gap between cylinder face and forcing cone. Or does the squib have nothing to do with cylinder being locked up?
In first scenario, with squib bullet jammed against cylinder, that has rotated to live chamber, I would depress cylinder release and smack cylinder with plastic dead blow hammer. If cylinder won’t rotate, you can’t line it up to drive bullet back into empty chamber. Once cylinder is out tapping out squib is easy. This is kind of clumsy to do. I’ve done it a couple times with help. I held gun, right hand depressing release, left supporting gun ahead of frame, then having helper smack cylinder with plastic hammer. It doesn’t take great force to do this. Each time I had to do this was 6” K38s.

mehavey · September 5, 2021, 07:18 AM

1st question: What is blocking the cylinder from opening?
If a squib, I suspect the primer backed out from the low load.

In that case, firm steady force/plastic/wood/rawhide (NOT a metal) hammer
should open the cylinder.
Then the brass/steel rod JohnKSa counseled

Super Sneaky Steve · September 5, 2021, 07:36 AM

No matter what you do. First remove the grips and take out the hammer spring.

Safety first!

**JohnKSa** · September 5, 2021, 07:37 AM

Quote:

I think I was mistaken about the live round. The squib is about a quarter inch from the muzzle end and the cylinder will not open. Can I just use a brass rod and drive it back into the cylinder?

If you have a bullet that close to the muzzle and the cylinder won't open, then you have one of two situations.

1. You had a squib and followed it with enough rounds to block the entire barrel so that the last one couldn't get far enough into the barrel to clear the cylinder.

2. What mehavey described in the post above.

You can tell which one it is by looking at the gap between the barrel and cylinder. If you can see light through the gap then it's what mehavey described. If there's something blocking the cylinder then it's #1 above and it's time for a gunsmith. Driving more than one bullet out of the barrel probably isn't going to happen.

Mannlicher · September 5, 2021, 07:54 AM

after solving the riddle and finally getting the cylinder open, you can drive out the bullet by first drilling through it, and then tapping it out.

lee n. field · September 5, 2021, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug Ridley

I think I was mistaken about the live round. The squib is about a quarter inch from the muzzle end and the cylinder will not open. Can I just use a brass rod and drive it back into the cylinder?

I wonder if you've got (at least) two sqwibs, once close to the muzzle, one binding the cylinder.

mehavey · September 5, 2021, 09:10 AM

My Airweight's w/ my daughter or I'd go look....
IF the problem is just* the primer backed out, it may be caught up with the firing pin still in the indentation.
Will the hammer move back -- at all?

* ... and not a 2nd bullet jammed between cylinder/barrel

**Mike Irwin** · September 5, 2021, 11:42 AM

Important question...

Lead bullets or jacketed bullets?

Going to be a LOT easier to deal with it lead bullets.

**4V50 Gary** · September 5, 2021, 10:43 PM

Sorry if I'm basic, but cannot the cylinder be opened on the revolver?

If you're saying that there is a squib load 1/4" from the muzzle, I can't see how that will prevent you from rotating the cylinder. That is, unless there is a second squib load between the cylinder and the forcing cone.

If the cylinder can be opened, do so and remove it. It's the foremost screw on the right side of the frame.

This will make placing the barrel/frame into a padded vise easier (I'd use cork jaws that were glued on wood or neoprene or rubber padded jaws).

Can you post pictures?

Brit · September 6, 2021, 05:14 AM

I am a great believer in letting the right individual deal with this problem, give it to your gunsmith.
Reminds me of a good friends wife problem, with her .22 LR Airweight. ( 9 shot?) He took the little revolver out of his wife's purse, it was in a wee silver purse.
The zip was stuck! Could not be accessed! My ever-present sharp pen knife released it!
Not sure of the final fix it. But it was free of a purse idea.

September 5, 2021, 06:00 AM	#2
JohnKSa Staff Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: DFW Area Posts: 24,986	If the squib bullet is preventing the cylinder from rotating or opening, then how could a live round have gotten behind the squib? When you say 1/4" from the end of the barrel and that the cylinder won't rotate, I assume you mean 1/4" from the forcing cone, not 1/4" from the muzzle. Assuming all of the above is true, then there isn't a live round behind the squib. Assuming that one of the chambers is lined up with the bore properly, the solution is to drive the bullet back into the cylinder out of the barrel. I think that the alignment assumption is safe if the cylinder won't rotate--the bullet is almost certainly sticking into the chamber slightly and locking the cylinder up. You'll need a solid brass, bronze or steel rod that is close to bore diameter. Do NOT use a wooden dowel. Don't use a cleaning rod or a pipe. Don't use any soft metal that will easily deform. The metal rod really needs to be close to bore diameter so that you engage as much of the nose of the bullet as possible so you don't just drive the rod into the bullet. Having the rod diameter close to the bore diameter also helps prevent the end of the rod from getting pointed into the rifling and damaging the bore. Wrap a layer or two of masking tape around the rod near the end and do the same at the point on the rod that is just inside the muzzle when it is in as far as it will go. This is to protect the rifling and the crown. The rod needs to be straight. Figure out a way to hold the revolver firmly without marring the frame or damaging any of the moving parts. Insert the rod in the muzzle and drive the bullet back into the cylinder. Keep the rod lined up with the bore as closely as possible. One way to do that is to build layers of masking tape so that the rod fits the bore pretty well. Pull the rod out FREQUENTLY to make sure it is not bending or deforming and check the tape frequently to make sure it is not getting torn up. If the rod starts to bend or deform, replace it and keep going. If the tape starts to get torn up, take it off, replace it with new tape and keep going. You can make this a lot worse if you get in a hurry or try to use a wood rod or let the rod deform or bend. If you don't have a rod that is close to the right size and made of the right material, wait until you can get one. If you don't want to take your time and do it right, then leave it alone and take the revolver to a good gunsmith. __________________ Do you know about the TEXAS State Rifle Association?

September 5, 2021, 07:54 AM	#8
Mannlicher Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2001 Location: North Central Florida & Miami Posts: 3,209	after solving the riddle and finally getting the cylinder open, you can drive out the bullet by first drilling through it, and then tapping it out. __________________ Nemo Me Impune Lacesset "The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.".........Ronald Reagan

September 5, 2021, 11:42 AM	#11
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,389	Important question... Lead bullets or jacketed bullets? Going to be a LOT easier to deal with it lead bullets. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

September 5, 2021, 10:43 PM	#12
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	Sorry if I'm basic, but cannot the cylinder be opened on the revolver? If you're saying that there is a squib load 1/4" from the muzzle, I can't see how that will prevent you from rotating the cylinder. That is, unless there is a second squib load between the cylinder and the forcing cone. If the cylinder can be opened, do so and remove it. It's the foremost screw on the right side of the frame. This will make placing the barrel/frame into a padded vise easier (I'd use cork jaws that were glued on wood or neoprene or rubber padded jaws). Can you post pictures? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

September 5, 2021, 05:11 AM	#1
Doug Ridley Senior Member Join Date: April 9, 2013 Posts: 121	S&W Air weight problem I have a squib bullet stuck in the barrel with a live bullet behind it. Cannot rotate the cylinder or get the bullet out of the barrel. Stuck bullet is about 1/4 " from the end of the barrel. Any ideas on how to remove the bullet from the barrel?

September 5, 2021, 07:05 AM	#3
Doug Ridley Senior Member Join Date: April 9, 2013 Posts: 121	I think I was mistaken about the live round. The squib is about a quarter inch from the muzzle end and the cylinder will not open. Can I just use a brass rod and drive it back into the cylinder?

September 5, 2021, 07:14 AM	#4
Drm50 Senior Member Join Date: November 10, 2014 Posts: 1,380	I can’t picture this. Squib has to be not totally in barrel to do this. I’ve never saw a S&W of any model with 1/4” gap between cylinder face and forcing cone. Or does the squib have nothing to do with cylinder being locked up? In first scenario, with squib bullet jammed against cylinder, that has rotated to live chamber, I would depress cylinder release and smack cylinder with plastic dead blow hammer. If cylinder won’t rotate, you can’t line it up to drive bullet back into empty chamber. Once cylinder is out tapping out squib is easy. This is kind of clumsy to do. I’ve done it a couple times with help. I held gun, right hand depressing release, left supporting gun ahead of frame, then having helper smack cylinder with plastic hammer. It doesn’t take great force to do this. Each time I had to do this was 6” K38s.

September 5, 2021, 07:18 AM	#5
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,894	1st question: What is blocking the cylinder from opening? If a squib, I suspect the primer backed out from the low load. In that case, firm steady force/plastic/wood/rawhide (NOT a metal) hammer should open the cylinder. Then the brass/steel rod JohnKSa counseled

September 5, 2021, 07:36 AM	#6
Super Sneaky Steve Senior Member Join Date: August 9, 2011 Posts: 1,250	No matter what you do. First remove the grips and take out the hammer spring. Safety first!

September 5, 2021, 09:10 AM	#10
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,894	My Airweight's w/ my daughter or I'd go look.... IF the problem is just* the primer backed out, it may be caught up with the firing pin still in the indentation. Will the hammer move back -- at all? * ... and not a 2nd bullet jammed between cylinder/barrel

September 6, 2021, 05:14 AM	#13
Brit Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2005 Location: Orlando FL Posts: 1,934	I am a great believer in letting the right individual deal with this problem, give it to your gunsmith. Reminds me of a good friends wife problem, with her .22 LR Airweight. ( 9 shot?) He took the little revolver out of his wife's purse, it was in a wee silver purse. The zip was stuck! Could not be accessed! My ever-present sharp pen knife released it! Not sure of the final fix it. But it was free of a purse idea.