Reloading .40 ?

Mountainman6 · August 30, 2013, 06:29 PM

I am new to reloading and I came across a deal on everything I would need to load ammo from a coworker for a hundred dollar bill! I had been studying up online and reading books about reloading and when I found all this stuff I knew it was time to pull the trigger on starting to reload! Now then as I was about to start I decided that I was going to try to reload rounds for my walther .40 ppq. So I started reading and watching videos on the loading of .40 ammo and found that a lot of people feel that this can be dangerous if the gun regardless of make model etc does not completely support the case head! But there are many people who load for these guns anyway with no trouble! But I know this is a hobby that what you don't know will kill you! So where I'm at is in my Speer manual they have a safety warning about it! I have a father-in-law who has been loading since the sixties and feels that it should be ok as Long as I stay to the bottom to mid range of the load and limit the number of times I reload the shells! Is there anyone who currently loads for these guns or any recommendations out there?

rodfac · August 30, 2013, 06:34 PM

Yep...two Glocks, a Colt, and a Sig P226...no problems but I don't push the limits of the velocity envelope either. I use my reloaded ammunition for practice and carry, when I have one of the .40's, with factory ammunition.

I use standard dies, Lee and Dillon and load both jacketed and lead alloy bullets...both of my Glocks have aftermarket bbl's that allow use of lead alloy. I don't consider the caliber difficult to load for, and follow standard practices, loading from good current manuals.

HTH's Rod

Mountainman6 · August 30, 2013, 06:45 PM

Well the info I have looked up on reloading, straight wall pistol rounds it doesn't seem like the .40 would be bad to start with but the deciding factor for me was when I have a set of RCBS carbide dies on hand that being the only pistol dies I have what better place to start without have to go out and buy anything to try my hand at it with what I have! Then I came across a YouTube vid about a case head separation on a glock .40 so then I thought maybe I need to do some more research!

hammered54 · August 30, 2013, 06:54 PM

I also reload the 40 with RCBS dies they work just fine for me.
but I also use the Lee bulge buster first on the cases, if it's real bad I just pitch them.

Matt.

Mountainman6 · August 30, 2013, 07:07 PM

So what I'm getting so far is with proper case inspection and reasonable velocities this should not be a problem? I had currently planned on loading my 165 grain Speer h.p. with 5.3 grains of bullseye and my 180 grain hornady hp/xtp with 5.0 grains of bullseye these are bullets and powder that I got when I purchased the all of my reloading equipment from a friend so I thought what better way to get started than to use up what I already have on hand?

oldpapps · August 30, 2013, 08:17 PM

Mountainman6,

It looks like you are on the right track.

I am NOT a fan of glocks. Had to say that up front.

The .40S&W is just like all other small capacity cases, small capacity makes for larger external changes with smaller component changes. Just like the 9MMs as compared to 45 Colts or 44 Mags.
Watch your seating depth, consistencies are the key.

For bullet weight/s, I like the 155 grain ones, both jacketed and lead. And I run a mix (not in the same case) of 231/HP38 and TightGroup, depending upon my mood.

Remember, always to error on the side of safety.

Enjoy,

OSOK

Mountainman6 · August 30, 2013, 08:53 PM

OLDPAPPS

Ha ha I'm neither here nor there on glocks but they do make a fine gun! I have so many friends who have glock guns when I went pistol shopping I wanted something different than what all my buddies had and the walther just felt right and was a company that had a rep for making a fine firearm but after shooting it I liked it even more! But just like the glock .40 the case head is not fully supported! Although I have been shooting since I was very young I'm just now getting into reloading so I've decided not to rush the issue and get all the info I can before I start ! I'd also like to thank everyone for their input all ideas on this topic are appreciated!

bledsoeG19 · August 30, 2013, 10:01 PM

I have three glocks two of which I reload for (9 and 40) neither one spit out brass without having case bulge. Do not worry about the bulge. Invest in good dies and start at the lower end of the scale and work your way up. Everybody whines about "glocked" brass, it's nearly all I reload and have never had a problem.

Misssissippi Dave · August 30, 2013, 10:59 PM

.38 special and .45 acp are more forgiving calibers to load for compared to any of the high pressure calibers. I can not see any reason why you can't start with .40. The Lee bulge buster is probably going to make your ammo load easier and probably make the cases last a little longer too. If you have doubts about a cases conditions just toss it into the brass recycle bin. When it is full enough you can recycle it for some cash. I have only used AA7 and silhouette powders for .40 so I can't help you with bullseye information.

When working up a load don't make very many rounds with a given powder amount. 5 to 10 is more than enough to see how they function. I don't care to pull a bunch of rounds that just don't cut it. When you find something you think you like don't load more than 50 at first. Shoot them all in a single outing to see how you gun likes them. If it is still good you can start loading larger batches. Make certain you write down everything you are doing. Relying on your memory can get you in trouble fast.

David Bachelder · August 30, 2013, 11:10 PM

+on everything said here.

I reload S&W .40 all the time. Inspect your brass, de-bulge if needed and load midrange. All great advice.

There are a lot of posts on the web about the danger of reloading 40. As long as you follow good practice you will be fine. Don't be afraid to throw questionable brass away. 40S&W brass is cheap and most range floors are covered with it.

PS - I have loaded .40 at the upper range and it was fine too. The .40 can be a little snappy so I like the midrange loads for the reduced recoil. I also use an aftermarket barrel (Lone Wolf). I shoot a lot of cast bullets, bullets I cast myself.

Mountainman6 · August 30, 2013, 11:15 PM

Thanks everyone for the great advice and I agree with all of this it sounds like I might need to check out the bulge buster! And Dave I couldn't agree more about not relying on memory when working up loads, my memory gets me in enough trouble with my wife as is!

skizzums · August 30, 2013, 11:35 PM

my carbide lee dies sometime dont get the "bulge" completely out of the bottom of the case. if i don't notice it and it goes in a different gun, sometimes the case wont fit properly in the barrel and it will not allow my slide to close completely. luckily my guns aren't able to fire when this is the case, but i could see a dangerous scenario if the case wasn't all the way in and i was able to fire the round. i personally need to start inspecting my rounds better, i havent had this problem till recently now that my brass in on it's 3rd reload.

mxsailor803 · August 31, 2013, 02:26 AM

I reload a lot of .40 and its not a bad round to load for. I mostly shoot lead since I started casting my own. Everyone on here has made some very valid points. Just follow your Speer Manual and stay about mid-range or less and you'll be fine.

Misssissippi Dave · August 31, 2013, 06:38 AM

The Speer manual tends to run a little higher amounts of powder than some of the others. The OAL listed also is sometimes a little longer than say a powder manufacture will list. I like the Speer load data. I have noticed the powders they list first for a given bullet start with the best powders on top and the worst on bottom. A lot of other powders can be used they don't list. Mid range more or less Speer loads have worked well for me so far. They are not the only load information I have used, but this is the one I look at first when I start to do something different.

oldpapps · August 31, 2013, 08:03 AM

Mountainman6,

I will respect your views on glocks as be any good.

I was soured on them many years ago and would hope that they improved with later versions. I was saddled with first generation government purchase 40cals. My first issued weapon stripped out the receiver rails at 450ish rounds. The second just locked up! Cocked with a round chambered, and frozen! The slide wouldn't budge, wouldn't fire, nothing. Turning over a loaded, magazine removed, glock to the armory was a chore. I don't know how it was disposed of. My third one (that week) made it till Friday, then I only had to carry 'it'. I retired before I had to re-qualify. We were firing WW 180 grain FMJ FP. As I remember, I shot just over 1700 rounds that week for familiarization and qualification. And had two out of three glocks fail. I hope those were just first run flukes.

For 40s out of un-supported chambers: keep your loads reasonable and watch your brass. My Springfield Armory is a fully supported chamber. I still prefer .45ACPs

Be safe,

OSOK

rodfac · August 31, 2013, 12:43 PM

The unsupported chamber problem with Glock .40's was limited to Gen 1 and Gen 2 guns. It's my understanding that Gen 3's and 4's have a different chamber configuration that better contains the pressure. I have a Gen 3 G23 in .40 that both my wife and I shoot a lot. Comparing its chamber to that of a Colt .40 1911 Elite and a new Sig P226 in .40, I can see no real difference. Fired brass is indistinguishable between the three as far as case bulge is concerned.

Still, as is my practice with all handloads, I load for practice, focusing on reliability, and accuracy. I never push the velocity limits with any load. As I said earlier, for serious carry, I rely on quality factory ammunition...135 and 155 JHP's are my choices.

HTH's Rod

Sevens · August 31, 2013, 01:59 PM

Quote:

I hope those were just first run flukes.

I think if I had your hands-on experience with Glock pistols, I would loathe them even more than you might!

But I would say your assessment is correct. The ones you have simply must have been flukes or something else. It's pretty obvious that Glock has built a reputation across the planet that belies the evidence you've witnessed.

To the topic, .40 S&W would not be -MY- first choice or recommendation as the place to start handloading, but that you are showing concern and doing research and finding out about the reputation before you run in to problems (or even begin) bodes very well for you.

I don't consider myself a very skilled person with hands-on operations... I can change the oil, spark plugs and pull off most brake jobs, but I'm wise enough to stop there or things will go badly. I also simply cannot construct things out of wood... I don't have the creative mind for it. So I would fail wildly as a handy-man or carpenter, but -- I'm a very confident, long-time and successful handloader.

Good, safe, productive and quality handloading comes from boring repetition and attention to details, IMO. Learn some of the cornerstone rules and never waver from those rules and you can absolutely make some very good, safe, quality .40 S&W ammo.

You can't succeed at this if you are an idiot, if you are careless or if you don't give it the respect it demands. But otherwise? It's pretty much just repetitious assembly of already constructed parts. And if you take to the hobby aspect of it, it will FAR more than double your fun & enjoyment in shooting, and it will broaden your knowledge base in what's actually happening inside your firearms.

Gster · August 31, 2013, 02:09 PM

have three glocks two of which I reload for (9 and 40) neither one spit out brass without having case bulge. Do not worry about the bulge. Invest in good dies and start at the lower end of the scale and work your way up. Everybody whines about "glocked" brass, it's nearly all I reload and have never had a problem.

If I was reloading for the same guns that the brass came out of maybe.
Range brass loaded for anything other than a glock should IMHO, be run through a bulge buster or equivalent die. Just sayin.

skizzums · September 1, 2013, 03:04 AM

how more unsupported are glocks barrels from my s&w sd-9, aren't the all the same design now. unless it's a fixed barrel, wouldn't you have the same bulging issues as the glock with any gun??

Gster · September 1, 2013, 04:27 AM

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207548

This is a subject that has been kicked around before. I found this with some real good pics. In post #6.

WESHOOT2 · September 1, 2013, 06:18 AM

Simply follow the well-established procedures for loading handgun ammunition, and loading the 40 S&W for a Glock is safe.

BUT........if using LEAD bullets either install a conventionally rifled barrel (like a KKM or Jarvis), OR CLEAN the BORE every 100 rds MAXIMUM.

LSU · September 1, 2013, 10:40 AM

All good advice above -

I've got 3 Glock 40's and have shot reloads in all of them. I think - that all 3 are Generation 3 pistols.

I've shot .40 S&W midlevel reloads without any problems and have never noticed the "Glock Smile" or bulge others have posted about.

I have not shot lead in any Glock with a factory barrel. I have a KKM aftermarket for my G23 which I've shot lead with no problems.

I'm shooting assorted range brass that folks have given me. I don't sort it by maker, I just load it and shoot it.

I'm more of a shooter than a reloader. I reload because I like to shoot. Don't get me wrong, I like reloading but if I could buy a boxcar or two of ammo and just shoot it up, I'd give you my Dillon.

I dry tumble my cases before I load them, I also use case lube (One Shot Brand) before I put them through the Dillon.

I've loaded w/ and w/o the Case lube and I recommend it. I never felt case lube was necessary with carbide dies but I tried it and really liked it.

I use assorted primers with great results.

I'm using Powerpistol because it is what I've been able to buy. Happy with it.

I used SNB cast bullets and various other brands of plated bullets.

I'm loading out of the Lyman manual (which I double check with Speer Manual).

I have a Midway case checker (I'm drawing a blank on the real name) and I make sure that most if not all loaded rounds fit in it easily.

I check frequently with a digital caliper against the Lyman data.

Loading .40 is not really much different than .45, .38, etc.

Go slow, check your powder measurements frequently and check your sizing, etc and you'll be fine.

Mountainman6 · September 2, 2013, 09:26 PM

Once again I would like to thank everyone for the info and the links to pictures from prev post I think before I actually start loading ammo I'm gonna invest in a bulge buster and a case checker! I'm not the only one that will be shooting my reloaded ammo so I would rather be safe than sorry! But I do feel a lot better about reloading for my .40 now! It just may require a few more extra steps to insure safety! Also one more thing how many times would y'all say it is safe to reload cases with the bulge issue I have read many articles where people check the cases for stress in and out, stress lines, bulge, cracks and splits but with these rounds would it be safe to say load them 1,2,3,4,5 etc times then just call me done even if there are no evidence of excessive stress?

Gster · September 3, 2013, 05:10 AM

I haven't worn any out yet, but my .40 has a fully supported barrel. The cases I acquired with bulges were run through the bulge buster and are mixed in with all the others now. I have some that has been reloaded 5 times and I hope to get 5 or more out of them. I inspect them when running through the sizing/decapping die. Haven't found a bad one yet.

Misssissippi Dave · September 3, 2013, 06:57 AM

My barrel is fully supported as well. I am still using the first brass I started with. 10 reloads are easy to do so far. I am hoping to go to 20 or more. I have reloaded a lot of 9 mm another high pressure pistol caliber and have over 20 reloads on a lot of brass. On .45 when you can't read the head stamp any more you start checking them closer. .45 is a low pressure caliber so the brass should last longer. I just keep reloading all pistol brass until it starts to have splits at the case mouth or some other problem like a split anywhere else in the case. I also will toss any brass that seems to have loose primer pockets. When I tumble and the primer falls out, the brass goes into the recycle bin. I do trim .357 mag brass if it starts to split a little at the case mouth to .38 special length. It then is used for that caliber for about 5 to 10 more reloads.

Unlike rifle brass, you can get a lot of life out of pistol brass. The key is to not load them to max levels and they last a lot longer. Using One Shot Case lube might help to make the brass last a little longer. It does make reloading a little easier to do. I lube with it when ever I feel it is taking more effort than I care for with pistol brass. I don't use much and it seems to be enough.

August 30, 2013, 06:29 PM	#1
Mountainman6 Junior Member Join Date: August 29, 2013 Location: Pinson, Alabama Posts: 14	Reloading .40 ? I am new to reloading and I came across a deal on everything I would need to load ammo from a coworker for a hundred dollar bill! I had been studying up online and reading books about reloading and when I found all this stuff I knew it was time to pull the trigger on starting to reload! Now then as I was about to start I decided that I was going to try to reload rounds for my walther .40 ppq. So I started reading and watching videos on the loading of .40 ammo and found that a lot of people feel that this can be dangerous if the gun regardless of make model etc does not completely support the case head! But there are many people who load for these guns anyway with no trouble! But I know this is a hobby that what you don't know will kill you! So where I'm at is in my Speer manual they have a safety warning about it! I have a father-in-law who has been loading since the sixties and feels that it should be ok as Long as I stay to the bottom to mid range of the load and limit the number of times I reload the shells! Is there anyone who currently loads for these guns or any recommendations out there?

August 30, 2013, 06:34 PM	#2
rodfac Senior Member Join Date: January 22, 2005 Location: Kentucky Posts: 3,623	Yep...two Glocks, a Colt, and a Sig P226...no problems but I don't push the limits of the velocity envelope either. I use my reloaded ammunition for practice and carry, when I have one of the .40's, with factory ammunition. I use standard dies, Lee and Dillon and load both jacketed and lead alloy bullets...both of my Glocks have aftermarket bbl's that allow use of lead alloy. I don't consider the caliber difficult to load for, and follow standard practices, loading from good current manuals. HTH's Rod __________________ Cherish our flag, honor it, defend it in word and deed, or get the hell out. Our Bill of Rights has been paid for by heros in uniform and shall not be diluted by misguided governmental social experiments. We owe this to our children, anything less is cowardice. USAF FAC, 5th Spl Forces, Vietnam Vet '69-'73.

August 30, 2013, 11:10 PM	#10
David Bachelder Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2011 Location: Trinity, Texas Posts: 636	+on everything said here. I reload S&W .40 all the time. Inspect your brass, de-bulge if needed and load midrange. All great advice. There are a lot of posts on the web about the danger of reloading 40. As long as you follow good practice you will be fine. Don't be afraid to throw questionable brass away. 40S&W brass is cheap and most range floors are covered with it. PS - I have loaded .40 at the upper range and it was fine too. The .40 can be a little snappy so I like the midrange loads for the reduced recoil. I also use an aftermarket barrel (Lone Wolf). I shoot a lot of cast bullets, bullets I cast myself. __________________ David Bachelder Trinity, Texas I load, 9mm Luger, 38 and 40 S&W, 38 Special, 357Magnum, 45ACP, 45 Colt, 223, 300 AAC, 243 and 30-06

August 30, 2013, 11:35 PM	#12
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	my carbide lee dies sometime dont get the "bulge" completely out of the bottom of the case. if i don't notice it and it goes in a different gun, sometimes the case wont fit properly in the barrel and it will not allow my slide to close completely. luckily my guns aren't able to fire when this is the case, but i could see a dangerous scenario if the case wasn't all the way in and i was able to fire the round. i personally need to start inspecting my rounds better, i havent had this problem till recently now that my brass in on it's 3rd reload. __________________ My head is bloody, but unbowed

August 31, 2013, 12:43 PM	#16
rodfac Senior Member Join Date: January 22, 2005 Location: Kentucky Posts: 3,623	The unsupported chamber problem with Glock .40's was limited to Gen 1 and Gen 2 guns. It's my understanding that Gen 3's and 4's have a different chamber configuration that better contains the pressure. I have a Gen 3 G23 in .40 that both my wife and I shoot a lot. Comparing its chamber to that of a Colt .40 1911 Elite and a new Sig P226 in .40, I can see no real difference. Fired brass is indistinguishable between the three as far as case bulge is concerned. Still, as is my practice with all handloads, I load for practice, focusing on reliability, and accuracy. I never push the velocity limits with any load. As I said earlier, for serious carry, I rely on quality factory ammunition...135 and 155 JHP's are my choices. HTH's Rod __________________ Cherish our flag, honor it, defend it in word and deed, or get the hell out. Our Bill of Rights has been paid for by heros in uniform and shall not be diluted by misguided governmental social experiments. We owe this to our children, anything less is cowardice. USAF FAC, 5th Spl Forces, Vietnam Vet '69-'73.

August 30, 2013, 06:45 PM	#3
Mountainman6 Junior Member Join Date: August 29, 2013 Location: Pinson, Alabama Posts: 14	Well the info I have looked up on reloading, straight wall pistol rounds it doesn't seem like the .40 would be bad to start with but the deciding factor for me was when I have a set of RCBS carbide dies on hand that being the only pistol dies I have what better place to start without have to go out and buy anything to try my hand at it with what I have! Then I came across a YouTube vid about a case head separation on a glock .40 so then I thought maybe I need to do some more research!

August 30, 2013, 06:54 PM	#4
hammered54 Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2010 Location: Pinckney,Michigan Posts: 151	I also reload the 40 with RCBS dies they work just fine for me. but I also use the Lee bulge buster first on the cases, if it's real bad I just pitch them. Matt.

August 30, 2013, 07:07 PM	#5
Mountainman6 Junior Member Join Date: August 29, 2013 Location: Pinson, Alabama Posts: 14	So what I'm getting so far is with proper case inspection and reasonable velocities this should not be a problem? I had currently planned on loading my 165 grain Speer h.p. with 5.3 grains of bullseye and my 180 grain hornady hp/xtp with 5.0 grains of bullseye these are bullets and powder that I got when I purchased the all of my reloading equipment from a friend so I thought what better way to get started than to use up what I already have on hand?

August 30, 2013, 08:17 PM	#6
oldpapps Senior Member Join Date: September 22, 2011 Location: Middle America Posts: 518	Mountainman6, It looks like you are on the right track. I am NOT a fan of glocks. Had to say that up front. The .40S&W is just like all other small capacity cases, small capacity makes for larger external changes with smaller component changes. Just like the 9MMs as compared to 45 Colts or 44 Mags. Watch your seating depth, consistencies are the key. For bullet weight/s, I like the 155 grain ones, both jacketed and lead. And I run a mix (not in the same case) of 231/HP38 and TightGroup, depending upon my mood. Remember, always to error on the side of safety. Enjoy, OSOK

August 30, 2013, 08:53 PM	#7
Mountainman6 Junior Member Join Date: August 29, 2013 Location: Pinson, Alabama Posts: 14	OLDPAPPS Ha ha I'm neither here nor there on glocks but they do make a fine gun! I have so many friends who have glock guns when I went pistol shopping I wanted something different than what all my buddies had and the walther just felt right and was a company that had a rep for making a fine firearm but after shooting it I liked it even more! But just like the glock .40 the case head is not fully supported! Although I have been shooting since I was very young I'm just now getting into reloading so I've decided not to rush the issue and get all the info I can before I start ! I'd also like to thank everyone for their input all ideas on this topic are appreciated!

August 30, 2013, 10:01 PM	#8
bledsoeG19 Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2013 Posts: 135	I have three glocks two of which I reload for (9 and 40) neither one spit out brass without having case bulge. Do not worry about the bulge. Invest in good dies and start at the lower end of the scale and work your way up. Everybody whines about "glocked" brass, it's nearly all I reload and have never had a problem.

August 30, 2013, 10:59 PM	#9
Misssissippi Dave Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Posts: 1,411	.38 special and .45 acp are more forgiving calibers to load for compared to any of the high pressure calibers. I can not see any reason why you can't start with .40. The Lee bulge buster is probably going to make your ammo load easier and probably make the cases last a little longer too. If you have doubts about a cases conditions just toss it into the brass recycle bin. When it is full enough you can recycle it for some cash. I have only used AA7 and silhouette powders for .40 so I can't help you with bullseye information. When working up a load don't make very many rounds with a given powder amount. 5 to 10 is more than enough to see how they function. I don't care to pull a bunch of rounds that just don't cut it. When you find something you think you like don't load more than 50 at first. Shoot them all in a single outing to see how you gun likes them. If it is still good you can start loading larger batches. Make certain you write down everything you are doing. Relying on your memory can get you in trouble fast.

August 30, 2013, 11:15 PM	#11
Mountainman6 Junior Member Join Date: August 29, 2013 Location: Pinson, Alabama Posts: 14	Thanks everyone for the great advice and I agree with all of this it sounds like I might need to check out the bulge buster! And Dave I couldn't agree more about not relying on memory when working up loads, my memory gets me in enough trouble with my wife as is!

August 31, 2013, 02:26 AM	#13
mxsailor803 Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2010 Location: SC Posts: 1,344	I reload a lot of .40 and its not a bad round to load for. I mostly shoot lead since I started casting my own. Everyone on here has made some very valid points. Just follow your Speer Manual and stay about mid-range or less and you'll be fine.

August 31, 2013, 06:38 AM	#14
Misssissippi Dave Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Posts: 1,411	The Speer manual tends to run a little higher amounts of powder than some of the others. The OAL listed also is sometimes a little longer than say a powder manufacture will list. I like the Speer load data. I have noticed the powders they list first for a given bullet start with the best powders on top and the worst on bottom. A lot of other powders can be used they don't list. Mid range more or less Speer loads have worked well for me so far. They are not the only load information I have used, but this is the one I look at first when I start to do something different.

August 31, 2013, 08:03 AM	#15
oldpapps Senior Member Join Date: September 22, 2011 Location: Middle America Posts: 518	Mountainman6, I will respect your views on glocks as be any good. I was soured on them many years ago and would hope that they improved with later versions. I was saddled with first generation government purchase 40cals. My first issued weapon stripped out the receiver rails at 450ish rounds. The second just locked up! Cocked with a round chambered, and frozen! The slide wouldn't budge, wouldn't fire, nothing. Turning over a loaded, magazine removed, glock to the armory was a chore. I don't know how it was disposed of. My third one (that week) made it till Friday, then I only had to carry 'it'. I retired before I had to re-qualify. We were firing WW 180 grain FMJ FP. As I remember, I shot just over 1700 rounds that week for familiarization and qualification. And had two out of three glocks fail. I hope those were just first run flukes. For 40s out of un-supported chambers: keep your loads reasonable and watch your brass. My Springfield Armory is a fully supported chamber. I still prefer .45ACPs Be safe, OSOK

August 31, 2013, 02:09 PM	#18
Gster Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2012 Location: N.central Pa. Posts: 302	have three glocks two of which I reload for (9 and 40) neither one spit out brass without having case bulge. Do not worry about the bulge. Invest in good dies and start at the lower end of the scale and work your way up. Everybody whines about "glocked" brass, it's nearly all I reload and have never had a problem. If I was reloading for the same guns that the brass came out of maybe. Range brass loaded for anything other than a glock should IMHO, be run through a bulge buster or equivalent die. Just sayin. __________________ Gun control means: Being able to hit what you are shooting at.

September 1, 2013, 03:04 AM	#19
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	how more unsupported are glocks barrels from my s&w sd-9, aren't the all the same design now. unless it's a fixed barrel, wouldn't you have the same bulging issues as the glock with any gun?? __________________ My head is bloody, but unbowed

September 1, 2013, 04:27 AM	#20
Gster Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2012 Location: N.central Pa. Posts: 302	http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207548 This is a subject that has been kicked around before. I found this with some real good pics. In post #6. __________________ Gun control means: Being able to hit what you are shooting at.

September 1, 2013, 06:18 AM	#21
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	hundreds of 40 S&W Glocks n me Simply follow the well-established procedures for loading handgun ammunition, and loading the 40 S&W for a Glock is safe. BUT........if using LEAD bullets either install a conventionally rifled barrel (like a KKM or Jarvis), OR CLEAN the BORE every 100 rds MAXIMUM. __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

September 1, 2013, 10:40 AM	#22
LSU Member Join Date: May 12, 2013 Posts: 38	All good advice above - I've got 3 Glock 40's and have shot reloads in all of them. I think - that all 3 are Generation 3 pistols. I've shot .40 S&W midlevel reloads without any problems and have never noticed the "Glock Smile" or bulge others have posted about. I have not shot lead in any Glock with a factory barrel. I have a KKM aftermarket for my G23 which I've shot lead with no problems. I'm shooting assorted range brass that folks have given me. I don't sort it by maker, I just load it and shoot it. I'm more of a shooter than a reloader. I reload because I like to shoot. Don't get me wrong, I like reloading but if I could buy a boxcar or two of ammo and just shoot it up, I'd give you my Dillon. I dry tumble my cases before I load them, I also use case lube (One Shot Brand) before I put them through the Dillon. I've loaded w/ and w/o the Case lube and I recommend it. I never felt case lube was necessary with carbide dies but I tried it and really liked it. I use assorted primers with great results. I'm using Powerpistol because it is what I've been able to buy. Happy with it. I used SNB cast bullets and various other brands of plated bullets. I'm loading out of the Lyman manual (which I double check with Speer Manual). I have a Midway case checker (I'm drawing a blank on the real name) and I make sure that most if not all loaded rounds fit in it easily. I check frequently with a digital caliper against the Lyman data. Loading .40 is not really much different than .45, .38, etc. Go slow, check your powder measurements frequently and check your sizing, etc and you'll be fine.

September 2, 2013, 09:26 PM	#23
Mountainman6 Junior Member Join Date: August 29, 2013 Location: Pinson, Alabama Posts: 14	Once again I would like to thank everyone for the info and the links to pictures from prev post I think before I actually start loading ammo I'm gonna invest in a bulge buster and a case checker! I'm not the only one that will be shooting my reloaded ammo so I would rather be safe than sorry! But I do feel a lot better about reloading for my .40 now! It just may require a few more extra steps to insure safety! Also one more thing how many times would y'all say it is safe to reload cases with the bulge issue I have read many articles where people check the cases for stress in and out, stress lines, bulge, cracks and splits but with these rounds would it be safe to say load them 1,2,3,4,5 etc times then just call me done even if there are no evidence of excessive stress?

September 3, 2013, 05:10 AM	#24
Gster Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2012 Location: N.central Pa. Posts: 302	I haven't worn any out yet, but my .40 has a fully supported barrel. The cases I acquired with bulges were run through the bulge buster and are mixed in with all the others now. I have some that has been reloaded 5 times and I hope to get 5 or more out of them. I inspect them when running through the sizing/decapping die. Haven't found a bad one yet. __________________ Gun control means: Being able to hit what you are shooting at.

September 3, 2013, 06:57 AM	#25
Misssissippi Dave Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Posts: 1,411	My barrel is fully supported as well. I am still using the first brass I started with. 10 reloads are easy to do so far. I am hoping to go to 20 or more. I have reloaded a lot of 9 mm another high pressure pistol caliber and have over 20 reloads on a lot of brass. On .45 when you can't read the head stamp any more you start checking them closer. .45 is a low pressure caliber so the brass should last longer. I just keep reloading all pistol brass until it starts to have splits at the case mouth or some other problem like a split anywhere else in the case. I also will toss any brass that seems to have loose primer pockets. When I tumble and the primer falls out, the brass goes into the recycle bin. I do trim .357 mag brass if it starts to split a little at the case mouth to .38 special length. It then is used for that caliber for about 5 to 10 more reloads. Unlike rifle brass, you can get a lot of life out of pistol brass. The key is to not load them to max levels and they last a lot longer. Using One Shot Case lube might help to make the brass last a little longer. It does make reloading a little easier to do. I lube with it when ever I feel it is taking more effort than I care for with pistol brass. I don't use much and it seems to be enough.