pietta 1862 colt pocket police 36 cal

kab37 · June 23, 2007, 08:51 PM

Hi, can I have some advice as to the proper load (pyrodex) for a pietta 36 cal 1862 pocket police.

Just picked up one, never been fired. I'm having problems with the barrell pin(?). won't go all the way in and has to drift out. Old Dragoon got any ideas?

-Thanks

mykeal · June 23, 2007, 10:21 PM

I use 20 gr fffg 777 with a lubed wad under a .375 round ball for best accuracy. Even though 777 is more powerful I'd recommend that same load (by volume) in Pyrodex.

By barrel pin I assume you mean the wedge that goes through the barrel frame and cylinder base pin. If so, I have to ask what you consider "all the way in", and what "has to drift out" means.

First of all, "all the way in" is whatever is sufficient to hold the barrel frame in place firmly (that is, no looseness or tendency to move) and still allow the cylinder to rotate. It does not necessarily mean the wedge protrudes out the side of the barrel frame. That might be too tight, such that the cylinder touches the barrel forcing cone and has trouble rotating.

If by "has to drift out" you mean that you have to use a drift pin and hammer to remove it, that's normal for a new Colt; it will loosen up a little as you use it more.

kab37 · June 24, 2007, 10:07 AM

Thanks, feel better about both the wedge and the cylinder rotation. Load sounds good.

Old Dragoon · June 24, 2007, 11:43 AM

Your're asking a Remy Guy(for the most part) about a Colt?? LOL!

The wedge in my Colt's just protrude enough for the spring clip to catch on the bbl frame. They are new and I'm sure in time They will protrude further thru the bbl frame.

I made a cartridge remover from a piece of Elk antler and a dowell. this doubles for a wedge remover for my colts. The antled does not mar the finish and I give it a pretty good lick to force the spring down, with a glancing blow that dislodges the spring clip and starts the wedge back throught the bbl Frame. This antler was cut at a fork brandch and it has a littl lip that will fit loosely into the wedge slot to strat the wedge back, then I can remove the wedges(in all the Colt's so far) with my fingers. I do nothing with the adjusting screws at all, this will come later as the wedges wear and I have to let them further into the bbl frame.

To replace the wedge(it doesn't come all the way out of any of the bbls (so Far), held in by the screw). I replace the bbl assy with a tap of my hand or a plastic hammer or simply push the bbl assy onto the arbor and pins , use my thumb to strat the wedge thru the slot, then bump it thru with with the heel of my hand.
I may be extrememly lucky as the wedges, so far, are easy to remove and replace. I found the same with the Pietta 1851 Navy I had too.

kab37 · June 24, 2007, 03:11 PM

Thought you'd be out there. My problem is the 1858 Army doesn't have this weird stuff. The Pietta looks like a nice pistol - case hardened steel, etc. My son seems to like it so now it's his. Once again thanks for the info.

By the way, us city folk don't have elk horn handy - hardwood seems to do the trick.

Old Dragoon · June 24, 2007, 10:10 PM

I bet if you looked in the right places you could come up with a deer antler, just as good. But the hardwood works too. You have to have a lot of that in your neck of the woods.

Chris_B · July 13, 2007, 09:53 PM

Thanks for the help for my Pop (kab37)

The pistol is a handsome piece and shoots very nicely. After experimentation it is actually quite accurate at a reasonable range- we were shooting 7.5 yards on the 5th, and we may shoot tomorrow if we can help it, perhaps on the 15 (if I recall correctly) yard range for laughs

How much material would it be suggested to remove, to increase the V in the hammer's rear sight? If I bury the blade in the notch it's about right for 7.5 yards. I was considering removing 0.050", although it really isn't necessary for now, if ever. I have access to milling machines because of my job, but for so little material a triangle file was my first thought

The barrel wedge can be tapped all the way in- by which I mean the tang on the spring just comes out the other side, with no cylinder interference. I can push it in by hand nearly all this way, but removing it requires the bit of hardwood my Dad rigged up still. If I recall, it has 42 rounds through it so far. I can't quite recall if I loaded it 7 or 8 times. I suppose I can count my remaining ball and see for sure. I have been shooting it this way, since no binding is happening. I haven't even had a cap fall into the action.

My only complaint is that the short barrel translates into a short lever throw on the rammer, which means more manual effort pushing the ball home, but this is simply the facts of life with the 5.5" barrel. Quite fun to shoot

June 23, 2007, 08:51 PM	#1
kab37 Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 43	pietta 1862 colt pocket police 36 cal Hi, can I have some advice as to the proper load (pyrodex) for a pietta 36 cal 1862 pocket police. Just picked up one, never been fired. I'm having problems with the barrell pin(?). won't go all the way in and has to drift out. Old Dragoon got any ideas? -Thanks

June 24, 2007, 10:07 AM	#3
kab37 Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 43	colt Thanks, feel better about both the wedge and the cylinder rotation. Load sounds good.

June 24, 2007, 03:11 PM	#5
kab37 Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 43	Thanks, Old Dragoon. Thought you'd be out there. My problem is the 1858 Army doesn't have this weird stuff. The Pietta looks like a nice pistol - case hardened steel, etc. My son seems to like it so now it's his. Once again thanks for the info. By the way, us city folk don't have elk horn handy - hardwood seems to do the trick.

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June 23, 2007, 10:21 PM	#2
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	I use 20 gr fffg 777 with a lubed wad under a .375 round ball for best accuracy. Even though 777 is more powerful I'd recommend that same load (by volume) in Pyrodex. By barrel pin I assume you mean the wedge that goes through the barrel frame and cylinder base pin. If so, I have to ask what you consider "all the way in", and what "has to drift out" means. First of all, "all the way in" is whatever is sufficient to hold the barrel frame in place firmly (that is, no looseness or tendency to move) and still allow the cylinder to rotate. It does not necessarily mean the wedge protrudes out the side of the barrel frame. That might be too tight, such that the cylinder touches the barrel forcing cone and has trouble rotating. If by "has to drift out" you mean that you have to use a drift pin and hammer to remove it, that's normal for a new Colt; it will loosen up a little as you use it more.

June 24, 2007, 11:43 AM	#4
Old Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: October 31, 2005 Location: The Republic of Californi Posts: 581	Your're asking a Remy Guy(for the most part) about a Colt?? LOL! The wedge in my Colt's just protrude enough for the spring clip to catch on the bbl frame. They are new and I'm sure in time They will protrude further thru the bbl frame. I made a cartridge remover from a piece of Elk antler and a dowell. this doubles for a wedge remover for my colts. The antled does not mar the finish and I give it a pretty good lick to force the spring down, with a glancing blow that dislodges the spring clip and starts the wedge back throught the bbl Frame. This antler was cut at a fork brandch and it has a littl lip that will fit loosely into the wedge slot to strat the wedge back, then I can remove the wedges(in all the Colt's so far) with my fingers. I do nothing with the adjusting screws at all, this will come later as the wedges wear and I have to let them further into the bbl frame. To replace the wedge(it doesn't come all the way out of any of the bbls (so Far), held in by the screw). I replace the bbl assy with a tap of my hand or a plastic hammer or simply push the bbl assy onto the arbor and pins , use my thumb to strat the wedge thru the slot, then bump it thru with with the heel of my hand. I may be extrememly lucky as the wedges, so far, are easy to remove and replace. I found the same with the Pietta 1851 Navy I had too.

June 24, 2007, 10:10 PM	#6
Old Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: October 31, 2005 Location: The Republic of Californi Posts: 581	I bet if you looked in the right places you could come up with a deer antler, just as good. But the hardwood works too. You have to have a lot of that in your neck of the woods.

July 13, 2007, 09:53 PM	#7
Chris_B Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Posts: 3,101	Thanks for the help for my Pop (kab37) The pistol is a handsome piece and shoots very nicely. After experimentation it is actually quite accurate at a reasonable range- we were shooting 7.5 yards on the 5th, and we may shoot tomorrow if we can help it, perhaps on the 15 (if I recall correctly) yard range for laughs How much material would it be suggested to remove, to increase the V in the hammer's rear sight? If I bury the blade in the notch it's about right for 7.5 yards. I was considering removing 0.050", although it really isn't necessary for now, if ever. I have access to milling machines because of my job, but for so little material a triangle file was my first thought The barrel wedge can be tapped all the way in- by which I mean the tang on the spring just comes out the other side, with no cylinder interference. I can push it in by hand nearly all this way, but removing it requires the bit of hardwood my Dad rigged up still. If I recall, it has 42 rounds through it so far. I can't quite recall if I loaded it 7 or 8 times. I suppose I can count my remaining ball and see for sure. I have been shooting it this way, since no binding is happening. I haven't even had a cap fall into the action. My only complaint is that the short barrel translates into a short lever throw on the rammer, which means more manual effort pushing the ball home, but this is simply the facts of life with the 5.5" barrel. Quite fun to shoot