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Old November 8, 2017, 08:27 AM   #1
baddarryl
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Sqib Load in G19.

Hi all. I loaded some 115 FMJ with Win 231 and CCI primers. Off the top of my head I can't remember how many grains at the moment. Anyway I had a squib in my Glock yesterday and the bullet only got maybe an inch into the barrel and stopped. I punched it out going the direction of the rifling and it took an inordinate amount of tapping to get it through using a punch and a 24 oz ball peen hammer. On inspection the bore looks absolutely fine so my question is is that unusual for it to be that difficult? And do I have to worry about this bore? Thanks.
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Old November 8, 2017, 09:08 AM   #2
dahermit
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...do I have to worry about this bore?
You did not mention what you used to punch the bullet out. If it was a Brass rod, then no, not likely to damage the bore.

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... is that unusual for it to be that difficult?
Even with cast lead bullets it can be difficult and with jacketed, harder still.
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Old November 8, 2017, 10:07 AM   #3
FrankenMauser
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Next time, lube the bore up before you start driving the projectile out.
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Old November 8, 2017, 01:10 PM   #4
4V50 Gary
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No rings inside the barrel (indicating a bulge)? Nope, then I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old November 8, 2017, 03:12 PM   #5
FITASC
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Next time, lube the bore up before you start driving the projectile out.
Yep, a shot of WD-40 will work. Personally, I would have tapped it out the other way only needing to go an inch or so.
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Old November 8, 2017, 03:52 PM   #6
T. O'Heir
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Using a ball peen hammer risks damaging the barrel if you miss.
"...unusual for it to be that difficult..." Not when you consider you're bashing the bullet through 4 or 5 inches of barrel.
If you used anything but a brass rod, you may have scratched the barrel. Steel punches are harder than steel barrels. Much harder than SS barrels. You'd be able to see any damage though. Like FITASC says, a brass rod and a plastic mallet from the muzzle end would be fine.
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Old November 8, 2017, 06:17 PM   #7
baddarryl
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I was cognizant of the idea of scratching the barrel so I made sure to use a punch that would sink into the bullet. I did think about trying to go the short way but I was afraid to go against the rifling kind of like going against the grain or something. I wasn't sure so I went the direction of the rifling. Thanks for the tips everyone.
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Old November 8, 2017, 06:45 PM   #8
FITASC
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The issue I see with the punch is that if you wedge it tight enough into the bullet, it might expand and make it tighter
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Old November 8, 2017, 06:56 PM   #9
baddarryl
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So are there punches that are made for this that are form-fitted to a specific caliber?

Last edited by baddarryl; November 8, 2017 at 10:53 PM.
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Old November 8, 2017, 09:17 PM   #10
FrankenMauser
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Yes.

But most people don't use them.
Brass rods, sections of slightly-under-bore-size drill rod, or other rods with tape wraps to keep them centered do the job well.

I use O-1 drill rod, either 0.002-0.003" undersized, or about 0.060" undersized and wrapped every few inches with electrical tape to keep it centered. Always grind the ends before use! The sections are almost always shear-cut, and rarely round or straight at the end.
Above .35 Caliber, I can use a section of brass stock that was left over from a non-firearm project. But, even then... I've got drill rod in the right sizes, all the way up to .58 caliber.

I do a lot of unusual experimentation and use drill rod for a lot of other things, though. So it's a lot easier for me to justify having 20+ different diameters and various lengths of O-1 lying around, along with the odd brass shapes. I wouldn't expect the average gun enthusiast to invest in such.


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Old November 8, 2017, 10:56 PM   #11
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Whether it's brass rods or the cheap Harbor Freight (kind of too-soft) steel punches, I just find one that will reach far enough yet be strong enough not to bend, then spiral wrap it in tape making sure there is overlap so it's more than 1 layer thick. Usually it's blue painter's tape or masking tape. Duct tape leaves too much glue that turns to mush when it touches oil/solvents.

That way the tip won't scrap the insides of the barrel, I won't hurt the crown, etc as long as I continue to be as careful as I should be. I just stand the barrel up or down against the table. Lots of friction so I second the vote for oil. I re-apply if the tape starts getting worn. No big deal.
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Old November 9, 2017, 09:53 AM   #12
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baddarryl wrote:
I did think about trying to go the short way but I was afraid to go against the rifling kind of like going against the grain or something.
The rifling deforms the bullet each time one is shot. Driving it back down the way it came it would have either followed the rifling or the rifling would have cut through the lead/gilding metal. The steel in the barrel is intended to "machine" the softer metals in the bullet, so no worry letting it function as a machine tool.
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Old November 9, 2017, 09:56 AM   #13
hdwhit
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Anyway I had a squib in my Glock yesterday...
Time to review your reloading procedures and make changes to ensure you don't have any more cartridges slip through without powder.

This was inconvenient because you caught it. But it should be regarded as your wake-up call. Had you not caught it, it could have been catastrophic.
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Old November 9, 2017, 04:27 PM   #14
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Had you not caught it, it could have been catastrophic.
This is my biggest fear as a shooter, especially during competition when you are rapid firing and really in 'the zone'. The thought gives me the heebie-jeebies. But also I worry about shooting with novices, I ALWAYS stress that if you hear a pop or something feels weird - STOP. And we will take a look.
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