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Old December 1, 2020, 02:22 PM   #1
Blindstitch
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File cocking piece Timney Trigger install.

I bought a Timney 201 featherweight trigger for my dads Columbian mauser R. FAMAGE 1952 and unlike the M1917 I did it wasn't just a drop in and go. With the trigger installed when fired the cocking piece would only slide forward a bit and stop. The directions say to file the cocking piece to get it working right.

I'm not an idiot so i'm not doing anything without asking questions or picking up extra parts.

What I did first was add a shim to the trigger assembly back and the action. Cardboard from the Timney box. One thickness wasn't enough so I folded it over and it worked. Then I worked on a metal shim from an old feeler gauge. I ended up narrowing it down to a .014 shim making it work just the way I expected.

Can I just leave it shimmed and have it work fine? I ordered a replacement cocking piece if/when I try the file route. Do you file both bottom surfaces of the cocking piece or just the front one. The timney pamphlet showed an arrow to the front.

Random pic off the internet.


Any help is appreciated. Just trying to do an upgrade for my dad who's had this rifle for 40 years and always complained about the long trigger pull.
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Old December 1, 2020, 08:18 PM   #2
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Do not file on the front. File on the bottom.
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Old December 1, 2020, 09:17 PM   #3
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Do not file on the front. File on the bottom.
Oh I see what I did there. I meant do I file the bottom of both pieces that stick down or just the front one that sticks down?
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Old December 1, 2020, 10:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
when fired the cocking piece would only slide forward a bit and stop.
How much is a bit??

The fact that it moves forward at all means the trigger is releasing it, then something is happening that stops it.

You shimmed it, and it works, ok, cool. What's wrong with that?? As long as the shim stays there its all good. Its not too difficult to make a shim that won't go anywhere
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Old December 1, 2020, 11:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
How much is a bit??
Maybe an 8th of an inch.
This isn't scientific but when I shimmed it 1 thickness of cardboard it would go forward all the way but I couldn't get the bolt open without backing off the trigger screw. 2 thicknesses of cardboard worked fine I think that might have been .020 thickness and then went down to .014 with the metal shim. I don't think the metal shim will move but I don't want to get a call from my dad saying hey I can't get this to work for some reason.

My theory is when the Columbian Mausers were refinished maybe they took a bit thickness off the action bottom where the trigger sits but wouldn't be noticed with the stock trigger.

How would you make it so the shim doesn't move if you don't mind asking?
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Old December 2, 2020, 01:49 AM   #6
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My theory is when the Columbian Mausers were refinished maybe they took a bit thickness off the action bottom where the trigger sits but wouldn't be noticed with the stock trigger.
Interesting theory, but I can't think of any reason why that would have been done. I think what you have is a slight mismatch of the fit between a specific rifle and a trigger made to fit that model Mauser (assuming it is the right one for that model Mauser).

The traditional "fix" is "file the cocking piece to fit" the new trigger.

First step is to be sure what you think is happening is happening. What it sounds like is the rear edge of the lower cocking piece is striking the Timney sear as it moves forward.

A picture of your shim in place would help a lot, I'm assuming you put the shim between the body of the new trigger and the bottom of the action, thus lowering slightly how high the new sear sticks up.

High enough to engage the cocking piece as normal but clearing the cocking piece once the trigger is pulled.

Is this correct??
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Old December 2, 2020, 05:47 AM   #7
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Is this correct??
Yes.

I have a replacement blued cocking piece on the way as I would like to do it the right way. I'm currently at a stand still trying to fit things in the stock. Ran out of 1/4 inch sanding drums for my dremel and the local store didn't have any in stock. At this point I could almost do it with sandpaper. Just a couple millimeters to go.
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Old December 2, 2020, 04:36 PM   #8
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If you've got another cocking piece on the way, wait till it gets there, then install it and see if there is any change. Then, let us know, please.
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Old December 2, 2020, 05:11 PM   #9
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Will do.
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Old December 2, 2020, 07:54 PM   #10
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You bought the wrong trigger. The 201 is for commercial Mauser 98s with the flat-bottomed cocking piece, the 202 is for military Mauser 98s with the cutout in the bottom of the cocking piece. Good news is that replacing the cocking piece with a commercial flat-bottomed one will fix the problem.
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Old December 2, 2020, 08:39 PM   #11
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Well that sucks. Any idea where to get the flat bottomed cocking piece since I ordered another military one I guess.
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Old December 7, 2020, 08:37 PM   #12
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Timney contacted me and this is what they had to say.

The difference between the 201 and the 202 is the trigger shoe itself. If the shoe sits in the trigger guard correctly then you most likely have the correct trigger. If the sear is not dropping it is one of 2 things. First check the sear slot and make sure that our floating sear has enough room to travel forward all the way so it can drop. It is common to need to open that slot up for our sear. If there is plenty of room in front of the sear then it may need to just have a few thousandths shaved off the top of our sear to clear and drop.
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Old December 7, 2020, 10:08 PM   #13
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Ill bet Timney can help answer your questions and decide if you need any replacement parts.

Ive asked them a couple times and always got good answers. They even installed a trigger on one of my guns, about $80 less than Sako wanted to do it. Most of their triggers are adjustable for pull weight.
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Old December 9, 2020, 09:20 PM   #14
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Got out the file, caliper and dremel tonight. Took measurements of the Timney sear and slowly removed .030 from the front of the sear (.279 -.249) and slightly rounded the edges. Didn't touch any of the surface the cocking piece touches to drop and polished everything up. Works great.

Cleaned everything up, added a drop of blue loctite to the set screw that puts tension on the trigger assembly and found a clearance dusty storage room Tasco 3x9x32 for under $20 to replace the 1980's Simmons 4x32. Can't wait to take this to the range to sight in and see my dads face when he gets to shoot it.
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