powder contamination from lube/wax

locknloader · January 14, 2019, 01:43 PM

So was thinking the other day... everyone says you have to wash your case lube off when done (presumably to avoid powder contamination) and then i remembered some people add wax/polish when dry tumbling, or use a wash and wax if wet tumbling but i never see anyone call this out for potential powder contamination, just case lube.

So what is your opinion on this? Why does wax/polish get a pass, but case lube does not?

gwpercle · January 14, 2019, 02:20 PM

Even the thick greasy case lubes , think STP oil treatment , that are applied by rolling over a saturated lube pad , are not really that much of a detriment to powder charges. True the cases should be wiped off .
The cases are greasy so handling them leads to greasy fingers and is more messy than anything... I wipe the cases off just so my fingers stay clean.

Wax lubes , like Lee Case Lube , dry...in fact you are supposed to let the Lee Case lube dry before you size the case. Ever since I tried the stuff I dumped the greasy kid stuff just because it doesn't need to be removed and it's not messy.
I mix the Lee Case Lube with denatured alcohol , put it in a spray bottle, mist the cases in a small container, shake around and mist again...let them dry and the light wax film just gets rubbed off during reloading with no contamination what so ever !
Try this method some time....clean and non-greasy !

The reason wax gets a pass is because it's dry...it just doesn't contaminate .
Gary

locknloader · January 14, 2019, 02:55 PM

I pretty much do that now but with a lanolin / alcohol mixture. I use a very light coating and do not experience any sticky cases from excess lube. Rifle reloads already require so many extra steps over handgun i don't want to add another washing step if it can be avoided.

5whiskey · January 14, 2019, 03:03 PM

I will also say that a wax lube is too easy. I never clean lube from my cases.

arlaunch · January 17, 2019, 01:25 PM

No lube should be left on case walls. Case expansion and sealing against the chamber walls, takes a lot of force off the case head/Rim.

If you have to buy extra wax and things that do not contribute to accuracy, go light and wipe it all off.

My family just uses corn media without additives. Not saying our bullets or practices are more accurate than others.

January 14, 2019, 01:43 PM	#1
locknloader Senior Member Join Date: August 28, 2017 Posts: 164	powder contamination from lube/wax So was thinking the other day... everyone says you have to wash your case lube off when done (presumably to avoid powder contamination) and then i remembered some people add wax/polish when dry tumbling, or use a wash and wax if wet tumbling but i never see anyone call this out for potential powder contamination, just case lube. So what is your opinion on this? Why does wax/polish get a pass, but case lube does not?

January 14, 2019, 03:03 PM	#4
5whiskey Senior Member Join Date: October 23, 2005 Location: US Posts: 3,657	I will also say that a wax lube is too easy. I never clean lube from my cases. __________________ Support the NRA-ILA Auction, ends 03/09/2018 https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=593946

January 14, 2019, 02:20 PM	#2
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,752	Even the thick greasy case lubes , think STP oil treatment , that are applied by rolling over a saturated lube pad , are not really that much of a detriment to powder charges. True the cases should be wiped off . The cases are greasy so handling them leads to greasy fingers and is more messy than anything... I wipe the cases off just so my fingers stay clean. Wax lubes , like Lee Case Lube , dry...in fact you are supposed to let the Lee Case lube dry before you size the case. Ever since I tried the stuff I dumped the greasy kid stuff just because it doesn't need to be removed and it's not messy. I mix the Lee Case Lube with denatured alcohol , put it in a spray bottle, mist the cases in a small container, shake around and mist again...let them dry and the light wax film just gets rubbed off during reloading with no contamination what so ever ! Try this method some time....clean and non-greasy ! The reason wax gets a pass is because it's dry...it just doesn't contaminate . Gary

January 14, 2019, 02:55 PM	#3
locknloader Senior Member Join Date: August 28, 2017 Posts: 164	I pretty much do that now but with a lanolin / alcohol mixture. I use a very light coating and do not experience any sticky cases from excess lube. Rifle reloads already require so many extra steps over handgun i don't want to add another washing step if it can be avoided.

January 17, 2019, 01:25 PM	#5
arlaunch Member Join Date: May 11, 2017 Posts: 28	No lube should be left on case walls. Case expansion and sealing against the chamber walls, takes a lot of force off the case head/Rim. If you have to buy extra wax and things that do not contribute to accuracy, go light and wipe it all off. My family just uses corn media without additives. Not saying our bullets or practices are more accurate than others.