10/22 Rear Support Tang

SGW Gunsmith · September 20, 2016, 12:37 PM

The trend seems to increase involving replacing the Ruger 10/22 factory barrels with a 0.9200 inch diameter, no taper, bull barrel. Some concern after doing that involves "barrel droop" because the one, and only, forward receiver screw may not be enough to settle the receiver into the stock solidly. There is a method (fix) whereby the receiver can be drawn down into the stock much better.

Here's a fixture I made that helps hold the 10/22 receiver firmly, yet gives me the ability to adjust the X,Y and Z axis' to get the receiver locked down and aligned properly.

A slot is milled into the rear face of the 10/22 receiver and then a mounting hole and a cleaning rod hole are plunged through the receiver face.

Here the tang has been attached and will next need to get inletted into the stock.

The top hole in this picture is for the attaching screw for the tang. The bottom hole is a customer requested cleaning rod access hole so they can clean the bore from the breech end.

Pahoo · September 20, 2016, 02:56 PM

SGW,
I do routine work as well as trigger work, on these 10/22's. I have seen a number of ways for supporting the back end of the receiver. Yours is a new one for me and a darn good one. Many folks have gone to carbon fiber or tapered target barrels. Adding this support to a full bull-barrel is a good solution. Thank you for your post. ......

Be Safe !!!

Mobuck · September 20, 2016, 07:59 PM

My understanding (and definition) of "barrel droop" has nothing to do with the receiver tilting in the stock. "Barrel droop" to me indicates the barrel is no longer in alignment with the plane of the receiver(ie: muzzle "droops").
That said, I kind of like your addition for the sake of solidly interfacing the receiver with the stock. Does the support delete the need to lift the front of the receiver while dis-assembling?

Scorch · September 20, 2016, 11:42 PM

Neat setup and nice work.

The notch between the trigger housing and the rear of the action is completely capable of supporting the weight of the barrel and the action when fitted and bedded. That is what it is there for. That said, I built a 10/22 several years ago and anchored it in the stock with two screws into each end of the bolt buffer and drilled/countersunk in the sides of the stock. Worked well.

SGW Gunsmith · September 22, 2016, 10:56 AM

Yes, I've seen where others have used the cross-pin holes through the receiver and trigger group, and then through the stock to accomplish the same end result. Escutcheons were installed into the stock for support.

With the above receiver, and the installation of a KIDD barrel, the fit required a "shrink" type assembly, so there will be absolutely no "barrel droop", or forward tilt, involved. The rear tang addition is to provide additional support and to have the rear of the receiver meet more solidly with the bedding in the rear of the stock. I have just found the rear tang addition solidifies the bedding of the action into the stock much better, and it does help with improving accuracy.

I don't put much stock in "personal" definitions as to what constitutes what. That's like accepting and quoting the definitions from "WIKIPEDIA". Any knucklehead can write a definition for whatever they believe it should be, and there's always someone who will blindly reference it.

Mobuck · September 22, 2016, 08:06 PM

So, am I being called a "knucklehead" and are we going to argue the definition of "barrel droop"?

HiBC · September 23, 2016, 04:45 PM

I understood the OP's meaning perfectly.There are only so many words to choose from.Droop is as good as any.
It is correct and appropriate for context to establish boundaries for definition.
The context of this post had nothing to do with the barrel to receiver joint or any gravity induced flex in the material of the barrel or receiver.
The issue,problem(if any) and solution are about the one screw mounting,and one gunsmith's approach to a remedy.

I fail to see how bringing an argument over the fine points of the meaning of "droop" brings anything beneficial to the table.
There may be a definition of "droop" applied to a hound dogs tail at an AKC dog show.What does that have to do with the OP's mod?

Different topic.back to the OP.

Nice work.I have done the cleaning rod hole before.Makes sense to me.
A respectful question,not a cricicism:
Given that surface does see some stress from stopping the rearward travel of the bolt,I might be concerned about removing that much material,structurally.
I'd hate to see a crack form.(I understand the cross pin bears the brunt)

I would think a slot across the upper rear portion of the receiver face ,maybe .100 or .125 wide could mate to a steel tang fixed to the stock,not very different than on an M1 carbine or Hawken hook breech.
It would not need to be very different than a mill table toe clamp.Could be cut with tapers.
Just offering a thought for consideration.

amd6547 · September 24, 2016, 07:45 AM

Mmm, I agree with mobuck. If you go to the huge 10/22 section of rimfirecentral, and mention "barrel droop", the responses will not deal so much with anchoring the rear of the action.
In this context, the words have meaning. The 10/22, with it's bottom located barrel clamp can be prone to the muzzle being pulled down.
The OP's work looks nicely done, though.
I'm just glad my like new 1967 10/22 shoots dime sized 10 shot groups at 80yds, with no alterations at all....with a cheap 4x scope and Blazers.

SGW Gunsmith · September 26, 2016, 11:01 AM

Actually, there's not all that much aluminum removed. As you can see there's a web of metal left between both the screw hole and the cleaning rod hole. The shelf that has been milled is only 0.060 deep (1/16th inch). Also, the steel bolt stop factory pin, that the bolt bumps into during its travel rearward, has been replaced with an aftermarket "buffer" type pin that has a hard rubber outer sleeve with a 1/8 inch diameter steel pin going through the center of it.

Haven't seen any checks or cracks forming as yet on the one in the above picture, or had any reported. Will be something to keep an eye on though.

Barrel "droop", or the action of a heavy bull barrel "teetering" forward, due to only the front action screw drawing the receiver down and into the stock bedding has been a problem for some. The factory barrel isn't affected by that condition, but only an aftermarket heavy barrel. The idea of an additional rear tang to help stabilize the rear of the action is not a new idea, or mine exclusively. There are several means that others have come up with to pull the action down solidly and into the stock bedding. This helps to maintain the "free floating" condition of a heavy replacement barrel from tilting forward and engaging the bottom of the forearm channel. Correcting the looseness in fit between the barrel tenon and the receiver hole for it, requires a whole different process and normally doesn't result in as much "droop" as a heavy barrel can amount to. Hope this helps explain the reasoning behind this modification.

I have seen the addition of what I guess could be called, a "recoil lug" that was added to the bottom of the 10/22 receivers rear face with a couple of small screws. What that required involved some inletting into the stock to accept the added steel block. Then that area was bedded to the steel block with Devcon. IIRC, the guy doing that job mentioned some difficulty with getting the barreled action out of the stock when the bedding solidified.

Arguing "semantics" is just a game some play who don't have anything better to do.

johnwilliamson062 · September 26, 2016, 09:28 PM

I think I like the look irrespective to how any performance improvements achieved.

Picher · October 15, 2016, 08:40 AM

I found that a pressure point in the forend that provides about 4-5 lbs of uplift on a bull barrel is enough to force the rear of the receiver into epoxy bedding and provide great accuracy.

IMHO, the aluminum receiver and bedding is a bit too flexible to provide consistency with a heavy, free-floated barrel.

(My accurizing tips have been used by hundreds of people and resulted in many 10-22s grouping under 1/2" at 50 yards. My 10-22 fired 10 consecutive, 5-shot groups on a proof target averaging 0.37" at 50 yards.)

John Picher

Lavan · October 16, 2016, 03:51 PM

.37 ????

YOW!

And I thought I was doing okay with the dead stock one I've had since they were 5 digit serial numbers.

September 20, 2016, 12:37 PM	#1
SGW Gunsmith Junior member Join Date: December 31, 2014 Location: Northwest Wisconsin Posts: 285	10/22 Rear Support Tang The trend seems to increase involving replacing the Ruger 10/22 factory barrels with a 0.9200 inch diameter, no taper, bull barrel. Some concern after doing that involves *"barrel droop"* because the one, and only, forward receiver screw may not be enough to settle the receiver into the stock solidly. There is a method (fix) whereby the receiver can be drawn down into the stock much better. Here's a fixture I made that helps hold the 10/22 receiver firmly, yet gives me the ability to adjust the X,Y and Z axis' to get the receiver locked down and aligned properly. A slot is milled into the rear face of the 10/22 receiver and then a mounting hole and a cleaning rod hole are plunged through the receiver face. Here the tang has been attached and will next need to get inletted into the stock. The top hole in this picture is for the attaching screw for the tang. The bottom hole is a customer requested cleaning rod access hole so they can clean the bore from the breech end.

September 20, 2016, 02:56 PM	#2
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	My Compliments SGW, I do routine work as well as trigger work, on these 10/22's. I have seen a number of ways for supporting the back end of the receiver. Yours is a new one for me and a darn good one. Many folks have gone to carbon fiber or tapered target barrels. Adding this support to a full bull-barrel is a good solution. Thank you for your post. ...... Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

September 20, 2016, 11:42 PM	#4
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Neat setup and nice work. The notch between the trigger housing and the rear of the action is completely capable of supporting the weight of the barrel and the action when fitted and bedded. That is what it is there for. That said, I built a 10/22 several years ago and anchored it in the stock with two screws into each end of the bolt buffer and drilled/countersunk in the sides of the stock. Worked well. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

September 24, 2016, 07:45 AM	#8
amd6547 Senior Member Join Date: May 27, 2006 Posts: 2,313	Mmm, I agree with mobuck. If you go to the huge 10/22 section of rimfirecentral, and mention "barrel droop", the responses will not deal so much with anchoring the rear of the action. In this context, the words have meaning. The 10/22, with it's bottom located barrel clamp can be prone to the muzzle being pulled down. The OP's work looks nicely done, though. I'm just glad my like new 1967 10/22 shoots dime sized 10 shot groups at 80yds, with no alterations at all....with a cheap 4x scope and Blazers. __________________ The past is gone...the future may never happen. Be Here Now.

September 26, 2016, 11:01 AM	#9
SGW Gunsmith Junior member Join Date: December 31, 2014 Location: Northwest Wisconsin Posts: 285	Actually, there's not all that much aluminum removed. As you can see there's a web of metal left between both the screw hole and the cleaning rod hole. The shelf that has been milled is only 0.060 deep (1/16th inch). Also, the steel bolt stop factory pin, that the bolt bumps into during its travel rearward, has been replaced with an aftermarket "buffer" type pin that has a hard rubber outer sleeve with a 1/8 inch diameter steel pin going through the center of it. Haven't seen any checks or cracks forming as yet on the one in the above picture, or had any reported. Will be something to keep an eye on though. Barrel "droop", or the action of a heavy bull barrel "teetering" forward, due to only the front action screw drawing the receiver down and into the stock bedding has been a problem for some. The factory barrel isn't affected by that condition, but only an aftermarket heavy barrel. The idea of an additional rear tang to help stabilize the rear of the action is not a new idea, or mine exclusively. There are several means that others have come up with to pull the action down solidly and into the stock bedding. This helps to maintain the "free floating" condition of a heavy replacement barrel from tilting forward and engaging the bottom of the forearm channel. Correcting the looseness in fit between the barrel tenon and the receiver hole for it, requires a whole different process and normally doesn't result in as much "droop" as a heavy barrel can amount to. Hope this helps explain the reasoning behind this modification. I have seen the addition of what I guess could be called, a "recoil lug" that was added to the bottom of the 10/22 receivers rear face with a couple of small screws. What that required involved some inletting into the stock to accept the added steel block. Then that area was bedded to the steel block with Devcon. IIRC, the guy doing that job mentioned some difficulty with getting the barreled action out of the stock when the bedding solidified. Arguing "semantics" is just a game some play who don't have anything better to do. Last edited by SGW Gunsmith; September 26, 2016 at 11:22 AM.

September 20, 2016, 07:59 PM	#3
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	My understanding (and definition) of "barrel droop" has nothing to do with the receiver tilting in the stock. "Barrel droop" to me indicates the barrel is no longer in alignment with the plane of the receiver(ie: muzzle "droops"). That said, I kind of like your addition for the sake of solidly interfacing the receiver with the stock. Does the support delete the need to lift the front of the receiver while dis-assembling?

September 22, 2016, 10:56 AM	#5
SGW Gunsmith Junior member Join Date: December 31, 2014 Location: Northwest Wisconsin Posts: 285	Yes, I've seen where others have used the cross-pin holes through the receiver and trigger group, and then through the stock to accomplish the same end result. Escutcheons were installed into the stock for support. With the above receiver, and the installation of a KIDD barrel, the fit required a "shrink" type assembly, so there will be absolutely no "barrel droop", or forward tilt, involved. The rear tang addition is to provide additional support and to have the rear of the receiver meet more solidly with the bedding in the rear of the stock. I have just found the rear tang addition solidifies the bedding of the action into the stock much better, and it does help with improving accuracy. I don't put much stock in "personal" definitions as to what constitutes what. That's like accepting and quoting the definitions from "WIKIPEDIA". Any knucklehead can write a definition for whatever they believe it should be, and there's always someone who will blindly reference it.

September 22, 2016, 08:06 PM	#6
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	So, am I being called a "knucklehead" and are we going to argue the definition of "barrel droop"?

September 23, 2016, 04:45 PM	#7
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,288	I understood the OP's meaning perfectly.There are only so many words to choose from.Droop is as good as any. It is correct and appropriate for context to establish boundaries for definition. The context of this post had nothing to do with the barrel to receiver joint or any gravity induced flex in the material of the barrel or receiver. The issue,problem(if any) and solution are about the one screw mounting,and one gunsmith's approach to a remedy. I fail to see how bringing an argument over the fine points of the meaning of "droop" brings anything beneficial to the table. There may be a definition of "droop" applied to a hound dogs tail at an AKC dog show.What does that have to do with the OP's mod? Different topic.back to the OP. Nice work.I have done the cleaning rod hole before.Makes sense to me. A respectful question,not a cricicism: Given that surface does see some stress from stopping the rearward travel of the bolt,I might be concerned about removing that much material,structurally. I'd hate to see a crack form.(I understand the cross pin bears the brunt) I would think a slot across the upper rear portion of the receiver face ,maybe .100 or .125 wide could mate to a steel tang fixed to the stock,not very different than on an M1 carbine or Hawken hook breech. It would not need to be very different than a mill table toe clamp.Could be cut with tapers. Just offering a thought for consideration.

September 26, 2016, 09:28 PM	#10
johnwilliamson062 Junior member Join Date: May 16, 2008 Posts: 9,995	I think I like the look irrespective to how any performance improvements achieved.

October 15, 2016, 08:40 AM	#11
Picher Senior Member Join Date: December 14, 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 3,694	I found that a pressure point in the forend that provides about 4-5 lbs of uplift on a bull barrel is enough to force the rear of the receiver into epoxy bedding and provide great accuracy. IMHO, the aluminum receiver and bedding is a bit too flexible to provide consistency with a heavy, free-floated barrel. (My accurizing tips have been used by hundreds of people and resulted in many 10-22s grouping under 1/2" at 50 yards. My 10-22 fired 10 consecutive, 5-shot groups on a proof target averaging 0.37" at 50 yards.) John Picher

October 16, 2016, 03:51 PM	#12
Lavan Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 1999 Location: California Posts: 2,716	.37 ???? YOW! And I thought I was doing okay with the dead stock one I've had since they were 5 digit serial numbers.