Nickel plated brass

[reinert]

I went to the range early one mid-week morning during hunting season thinking I'd have the range all to myself. As I pulled in to unlock the gate, I see a vehicle coming out, so I drive through, pull over, and let the fellers out before I lock the gate behind me. They gave me a wave, I waved back and I saw they had Montana plates on their SUV, and me, at my home range in Wyoming, kind of wondered why they're not up north hunting; shrugged, locked the gate behind me.

I drive in, and I find I really do have the range all to myself, and start to set up my bench stuff. I go and post a target at 100, and then, once back at my bench, I check the trash cans. Yes, I scrounge brass, but only the ones I can use in my own rifles. I see a silver case lying on one of the benches, so I pick it up, and lo-and-behold, it is a nickel plated Remington case stamped 30-06. I look in the trash can next to that bench, and see there's a factory Rem box with the plastic shell holder and ten more of those silvery cases laying in the bottom of the can. Of course I take them home with me, and have no doubt it was those Montana fellers that left them there. It's a known fact that anyone first at our range, cleans up the brass, so I knew I had the dibs. I just shrugged with a smile.

I've never used, nor ever bought any nickel cases before, as I've never seen the need to use them. So, after getting home from my session, I ran those cases through the F.L. sizing die as I would any other brass case I use in my '06s needing F.L. resizing. They seemed no different in the sizing process than the brass ones. I ran my primer pocket brush through the pockets, and put them in the factory box I found with the brass, and there they sit on my reloading bench. There's no doubt (to me) that they're once fired factory cases now ready to reload for me to try out if I'd like to.

So, do any of you TFL guys or gals use the silver cases? Other than from what I've read about them staying cleaner in a pocket while hunting, are there any other advantages, or disadvantages to using them? I don't see them offered hardly at all anymore, but then I don't look for them, either. If nothing else, they sure are "purty" things...

[drobs]

I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong, I recall reading that nickel cases wont tarnish as easily or as quickly when carried in leather cartridge belt loops as compared to brass cases.

[NoSecondBest]

It's all about looks. Really. They simply look nice when loaded. I've used nickle cases in handguns for many, many years along with brass. The nickle ones just stay nicer looking longer. Function? No difference over time. Some say the nickle will peel or chip. I've never had it happen. I recently purchased some nickle plated 45-70 brass simply because it looks cool sitting next to my various rifles in that caliber. It's really out of place with a Sharps but still looks nice. Just load and use it. No different than other brass. If you're an accuracy nut, you already know not to mix cases and these are no exception. If you're loading for "minute of deer" these will be just fine.

[Reloadron]

This is a good read on the subject:
Brass vs Nickel Plated Brass Cases for Ammo & Reloading.
While brass has its very good points there are a few downsides to using bare brass. While nickel plating the brass has advantages it also has some downsides. So what we get is like many things in reloading, there are trade offs.

I still have several hundred Nickel Plated 30-06 brass cases from years ago. No clue where I came by the stuff but it is all new Remington.

Ron

[g.willikers]

If nothing else, they sure are "purty" things

They seem to be very popular with the folks who use them for making key ring attachments.
Other than that, they reload the same as brass.
There used to be plenty of them to scrounge at the range, but not so much lately.
Maybe they cost too much to make these days.

[F. Guffey]

I have formed thousands of 30/06 cases to 35 Whelen and 338/06. I have found it a waste of time to form 30/06 nickel cases to 35 Whelen and 338/06 because the failure rate is 50% +/- a few. The nickel cases will split when using new and or once fired cases. I have had no problem forming brass 280 Remningto cases to 338/06 cases.

Because manufacturer do not make cases for reloaders/case formers that need a case with additional length between the shoulder of the case and case head I choose to use cases with additional length between the shoulder and case head. My best option is the 280 Remington, the 280 Remington has an additional .051" length between the shoulder of the case and case head meaning there is absolutely no way I can miss when off setting the length of the chamber with the case.

The next choice I have is at the range, the range sells fired cases; my favorite fired cases is a case that has been fired in a trashy old long chamber. Again; there is something about moving a shoulder forward that reloadrs do not understand. I want cases that are too long from the shoulder to the case head to chamber in my rifles. To acquire those cases I allow other shooters to fire them; after they fire them I purchases the cases at deep discounted prices. I have one exception meaning I have one rifle that has one of the ugliest chambers; it is .016" longer than a minimum length/full length sized 30/06 case; to put it another way my ugly chamber is .011" longer than a field reject length gage.

For that chamber I use 280 Remington cases; again I can not miss and I do not find it necessary to fire form the cases. Back to nickel cases, there are cases I use that requires a lot of handling. I have formed many cases I had no intension off loading. Before all reloaders became proficient at sizing as in the 'Art of bumping .002"' I sized cases, I did find it impossible to bump the shoulder I did managed to control the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head.

And then I had one of those 'I wonder moments'. I wandered if a reloader could prefect the science of 'bumping the shoulder' .002", why can't they control the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head to match the length of a go-gage, a no go-gage and a field reject length gage. And then there are all of those chamber length between minimum length to infinity. Back to nickel cases; if a reloadr could do anything beyond bumping the shoulder .002" the nickel case would be a good option when forming cases that require a lot of handling. If not for the problem of necking the case up the nickel case would be my favorite cases when forming cases I do not intent to load and then shoot.

F. Guffey

[David R]

I have used them. Then I decided to outside neck turn them. Looked funny. That is all. Nickel good. I kept my loads separate hunting and target, nickel and brass.

David

[T. O'Heir]

There's no advantage or disadvantage to nickeled cases. Except the plating sometimes flakes off.
There is a disadvantage to using scrounged range brass. Even though you have the box, you have no idea if that stuff is once fired or 100 times fired. Or with what.

[reinert]

Probably doesn't matter, but the nickel cases I started this post on were Winchester plated cases, not Rems. I've got 3 boxes of '06 brass I scrounged at our range that I found that same way I found the nickels, and the boxes are stacked together; mistook the Rems for the Wins. Anyway, the box of nickels say: Winchester, Ballistic Silvertip, 150 grainers. Looks like they might have been expensive. It's kind of like finding a little treasure coming across those once-fired, factory cases out there in the can, a good thing for a reloader.

I just may fire-form them with my elk load to see how they perform. Might be cool to have them "silver (cases) bullets" while chasing the wily wapiti. Sounds like there's not any real concern loading them any different than brass cases. Appreciate the comments. Again, they sure are "purty."

BTW, found this:

www.midwayusa.com/product/2900454227

Yup, they're expensive...same stuff I found

[lamarw]

I shoot and reload a lot of nickel brass. The big advantage I find is the fired nickel is easier to find from my semi-auto pistols or from rifles. I have plenty of outback property to shoot on as opposed to ranges. It gets pretty hard at times to find brown or brass brown colored fired brass no matter how shiny.

The only caution I can provide others is if you ultrasonic clean your brass, do not mix nickel brass and brass brass together in the cleaning process. Also do not use the same batch of ultrasonic cleaning solution. It will transfer the finish and you will have some ugly nickel and brass.

[firewrench044]

I use nickel plated brass for self defense pistol
the cases do not tarnish like brass does and I do
not have to worry about the ammo feeding if
I ever need to use the pistol defensively
On many occasions, I and my carry gun have been
completely soaked from heavy rain
( carry gun is also nickel plated )

I have talked to hunters about their use of
nickel plated brass, they said the same thing
no corroded ammo when you need it
rain or shine

NO need to sit up nights polishing bullets

[Marco Califo]

Nickel brass is very much preferred to brass for daily carry applications. If you wear a sidearm at work, and especially if you load and unload the chamber every shift, nickel wont tarnish from the handling. They also resist leather tarnish as well.

[rock185]

I prefer nickeled brass. I've used it in several calibers but never reloaded a particular batch of nickel cases enough for any reduced loading life to become apparent. I've not reformed it to other calibers,etc. I don't scrounge range brass and don't try to load brass until the case splits or primer pockets get loose. I realize it's all about the cheapest possible ammo for many, but I don't tend to shoot the cheapest ammo I can buy or load in expensive guns. But, to each his own.

As to my reasons for preferring nickeled brass, it really is "slicker"/ has a lower coefficient of friction than brass. This has become most apparent in the higher pressure loads in rifles, .357. 38 Super,38 Super Comp, 9MM and 10MM handguns. The nicked brass feeds from the magazine and chambers easier, definitely resists cases failing to extract in semi-autos, revolvers and rifles, and yes, resists tarnishing. Many/most have never seen the need to use nickeled brass. I certainly understand. I've used plain brass cases successfully for many years myself. But, I still prefer the nickeled brass for use in firearms that may be called upon to function flawlessly in life threatening situations.......ymmv

[Jimmy10mm]

Am I mistaken or would nickel plated brass be harder on a sizing die ? I guess with carbide pistol sizers it wouldn't really matter, but nickel being so much harder than brass ....... just wondering.

[Reloadron]

Jimmy 10mm:

Am I mistaken or would nickel plated brass be harder on a sizing die ? I guess with carbide pistol sizers it wouldn't really matter, but nickel being so much harder than brass ....... just wondering.

Good question and from our friends at Redding:
Scratched Cases: Causes and Cures

Nickel plated cases are often associated with die scratching problems. Small particles of the hard nickel plating may be present from trimming and/or deburring operations and can find their way inside the dies.

Additionally the subject of Nickel Plated Brass has come up numerous times including in these forums. May also wish to keep in mind the nickel is merely a plating over the brass. The plating thickness is minuscule and in many cases with tumbling to clean brass the plating will wear off revealing the brass. With wear, nickel will also tend to "flake" off the brass resulting in abrasive little nickel flakes getting into things, like your dies or gun actions.

Ron

[Marco Califo]

I reload 40 SW in nickel plated brass I bought as once fired. I have loaded some 3 or 4 times at least, and have a bunch still in the box. I clean and inspect each case before sizing and priming, either cleaned or from the box. I have not seen any flaking or wear yet. Any that ever show plating wear will be discarded. Whereas, if they were brass, only splits or other failure indicate end of useful life. I only carry factory loaded (nickle plated) ammo when it counts. My nickle plated reloads are for range practice.
I do not know (yet) if steel pin tumbling will affect the nickle plating.

[jumpingeezer]

I've never had a problem with reloading nickel plated handgun cases. The plating would wear down a bit and the brass would show through after many loadings. Never a problem with flaking.

When I tried using nickel plated cases in straight walled rifle cases I was very disappointed.( The new Remington cases that I used in my 444 Marlin started to shed the plating after the second loading! I got the same results in the cases for my 45-70.

I also tried to use the nickel plated cases in my 22 Hornet but they split the necks after the first loading.

Try them if you will, but I won't use them again.

[spacecoast]

Nickel plated cases are a lot tougher than brass in a hot, humid environment (like being in a car long term in central Florida). Brass turns green, grows verdigris and sticks in a revolver cylinder rather quickly, but since switching to nickel I've never had a problem.

[reinert]

Post#4: Thanks Reloadron, for that site and info on nickel vs. brass. Quick read, and good stuff. Die issue was good info.

I can understand now that nickel plating gives an advantage over brass in smooth feeding in most any type of action, especially semi-autos; a good thing when some added insurance in a serious situation may present itself in a self-defense confrontation.

Back in the early 70's, I had a Ruger Security Six revolver in .357 mag., and all my ammo was purchased over the counter at the LSGS. I had no interest or intention of reloading ammo back in those days, but I remember now that all the ammo I ever bought for that pistol had nickel plated cases, and they always shucked out of that handgun without a hitch.

Wish I still had that Ruger. Traded it for a car back then.

[Marco Califo]

all the ammo I ever bought for that pistol had nickel plated cases

I believe this is true across all calibers routinely used for carry purposes. All Federal Hydrashock and Winchester Silvertip full load hollow points seem to only come in nickle. They cost more due to quality components. LE, security, etc., are the purchasers. If you get a glimpse of LE, or game warden ammo, you will see nickled brass.
Blasting ammo is much more likely to come in brass.

[Tsquared]

I have a few rifle cases that are nickel that I have pushed them to the back of the stack numerous times skipping over them. I have been waiting till I have enough to fill a box.

I have a few thousand nickel pistol cases. I have some 38 SPL and 45 ACP that I inherited that have been reloaded multiple times over the past 40 years and are still serviceable. They have always been loaded with lower end loads.

I also have some 9mm and 45GAP nickel cases that I load up with a SD bullet to +P velosities. I have reloaded 50 45GAP cases 13 times and I am down to 49 due to a lost shell. I am doing the same with 50 9mm and at the 7th reload I had a speer split the case mouth. They are ready for their 9th reload and I have had the one split and 2 lost. It is also easier to keep up with "special" loads spent brass if you use Nickel.

[Gary Wells]

It is generally accepted that nickel plated brass came about primarily due to brass tarnishing when kept in leather belts & ammo pouches. Some time later Winchester, Remington, Federal, & some other manufacturers started using it in their premier & specialty loads.

I am shocked at the # of peeps on this thread using, or considering using nickel plated cases for reloading & shooting in general. Most rifle peeps shun it or shy away from ir for fear of chipping. Top competitors in both bullseye, bench rest & long distance rifle shooting never use it.

That being put to print, I shoot & reload only nickel plated cases for 5 different .45 autos. I have obtained over 40 reloads and will generally get 25 reloads per case. I generally reload in lots of 600 cases & work down from there. I shoot a very light target load.

Using for rifle, I would suggest keeping a close eye on the shoulder area of shouldered rounds. Keep a close eye on your dies also on nickel plated rounds for chipping in the shoulder area & scratching dies.

[snuffy]

Lots of repeated myths, lies and assumptions on this thread.

Modern "nickel" coating Is an electroless coating, not traditional plating process. When 38 special cases were first PLATED with nickel, they were electro-plated only on the outside. Not the inside or the primer pocket.

Notice that modern electroless coating is the entire case, inside and outside. They don't flake like the old plating process. That is info left over from 70 years ago.

As for it being hard enough to scratch dies, well that's just not true. The nickle-phosphorus coating used on cartridge cases is not nearly as hard as the tool steel quality dies are made of. If Redding dies are so soft that nickle can scratch them, I'd find a different company to buy dies from.

[jumpingeezer]

snuffy,

The cases that I mentioned were all brand new and they did indeed flake badly. They did NOT appear to have the less shiny electroless plating that I am familiar with.

Unless the manufacturers have changed their plating process in the last 8years then I would still shy away from them.

[F. Guffey]

Lots of repeated myths, lies and assumptions on this thread.

I have tumbled 38 Special cases until the cases took on a two-tone appearance without flaking. I have formed 280 Remington nickeled cases to 35 Whelen and 338/06 without the case flaking. Again, the failure rate was 50% because of neck splits.

F. Guffey