AR10, what causes these jams? - Page 2

riffraff · February 24, 2019, 03:06 AM

Thanks again guys!

Unfortunately with the current conditions I'm not sure I'm going to be able to shoot tomorrow unless I want to hike in - recent snow, rain coming, and it's been so damn warm everything is real muddy and I don't want to risk getting buried.. but here's where I'm at.

My Schuster bolt disassembly tool came in and my bolt fits in there but the surface that compresses the ejector on this tool is about the same diameter of the AR15 model - so it does not properly catch the round tipped Aero ejector. Going to need to take an empty cartridge and cut the end off it, use it as a adapter so it fits my bolt face right...

Playing w/ the ejector and compressing it though does not reveal any question about how it operates - compresses smooth and snaps right but to position. Still I'll push it out and replace the spring just to eliminate that.

Cleaning the rifle this time I took the extra step of soaking the chamber and barrel w/ tetra. For something that I clean so often and assumed to be in good condition I couldn't believe all the brass flake it freed up - it took me a long time of scrubbing and spraying it off to finally get it clean as the brass kept coming and coming but it's spotless now.

The heavy springco buffer spring showed up. I may try that first. What I'm hoping to see is the ejecting happening at more of a 2 o-clock instead of the 1 the way its' been running lately.

stagpanther · February 24, 2019, 07:16 AM

You mention that you're removing lots of brass shavings from your chamber walls--I see that in AR's that usually have some kind of timing/tuning issue. While a case may get abraded on the way in or out--and in your case maybe it happened a result of the jams--I personally don't think it's a "normal" thing in a really well-built and well-tuned rifle. AR's that I've had that had this problem sometimes were doing it as a result of a slight asymmetry in the bolt lug to extension lock-up and where remedied by disassembly, careful truing and reassemble to assure proper timing of extension to the bolt. Occasionally you might also get the carrier/bolt dragging across the top of the cartridge causing extra damage if the the cartridge is excessively pitched up or down inside the magazine--sometimes the magazine itself might not be positioned quite right in the mag well. My intuition is that if you truly had a gas issue, the problem would manifest itself more frequently than what you're experiencing. Just more internet guesses.

PS--what your doing with cutting the case head off to compress the ejector--I did that for years in a simple vice (a drilled out block of work holding the other end) before I finally bought a dedicated tool--but had to be real careful when tapping the pins out else parts went flying.

riffraff · March 3, 2019, 04:43 PM

Thanks again guys! Here is where I'm at and it's a good place...

I started off today with a kak heavy buffer and their matched buffer spring. I ran ppu 7.62, Remington .308, Winchester .308, and some random .308. All was in the 150 grain ballpark.

The change made a difference. Direction has shifted with rounds coming out closer to 2 oclock. Also, more subjectively I feel the 7.62 runs better, is thrown further than .308 and more perpendicular. I think it's been over gassed and is now corrected.

A couple things to note. Even though it's for my design, the kak buffer was a bit longer, ie I'd say between a 32nd and 64th - could be wear on my old bumper but didn't seem to be significantly off so ran it. Secondly both the kak and sprinco buffer springs are quite a bit longer, which again are for the design I have - higher coil count but also a bit longer coils than the original and noticeably stiffer. The sprinco orange is heavier than the kak so I started with the kak.

bfoosh006 · March 3, 2019, 04:48 PM

Glad to hear it is running !

Mobuck · March 4, 2019, 08:18 AM

I have a PSA AR10 with both .308 and 6.5C uppers but it's still in the box so I'm just making an offhand comment here.
If this was an AR15 platform, I'd say you're still WAY overgassed.
Tossing a handful of mismatched buffer/spring parts into the rifle may be counter productive (even though you now have it sort of working). I've seen some pretty gruesome things result from incompatible or mis-matched springs and buffers.

riffraff · March 4, 2019, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mobuck

I have a PSA AR10 with both .308 and 6.5C uppers but it's still in the box so I'm just making an offhand comment here.
If this was an AR15 platform, I'd say you're still WAY overgassed.
Tossing a handful of mismatched buffer/spring parts into the rifle may be counter productive (even though you now have it sort of working). I've seen some pretty gruesome things result from incompatible or mis-matched springs and buffers.

Thanks! So what do you do - I mean if it wasn't over gassed by design, then it's gotta be something with things moving too freely after break-in or erosion on the port within the barrel, correct? Are you saying to mess with the gas block? Ejecting at 2 oclock is that bad?

Again, it was always working just developed a symptom where it was way too picky about being clean to run right and I believe also started ejecting at 1 oclock (but never really monitored that from the start since it ran the original ~2000 rounds without a failure).

One thing that came to mind is if I pickup another one of these I may opt for an 18 inch barrel to get the rifle length gas system.

Mobuck · March 5, 2019, 07:52 AM

If I was having these problems, I'd start by hand cycling the system slowly to check for hitches or odd movements. Look for any signs that something has shifted or parts are interfering with each other.
The fired brass may be escaping the extractor too early in the cycle and being blown out of the chamber by residual pressure. Is it possible the brass is laying in the ejection port and being pushed out forward or being jammed crosswise by the cycling bolt?
If the buffer and spring aren't fully compatible, the bolt may not be fully retracting. Your comment "Secondly both the kak and sprinco buffer springs are quite a bit longer, which again are for the design I have ". Is "this design" different from a (somewhat) standard AR 10 (as in "proprietary")?
I dunno, I'm simply tossing mud at the wall to see if any sticks.

stagpanther · March 5, 2019, 08:11 AM

Quote:

18 inch barrel to get the rifle length gas system.

I've read lots of stuff about "the longer the gas system the better" but it's not that simple--your space between the port and the muzzle determine the dwell time of pressure behind the exiting bullet. I would try an adjustable block first before going down the parts-go-round. Buffer spring length may or may not have anything to do with it's power--depends what how it's made. Are you sure your buffer length is properly matched to your buffer tube and carrier? With the upper off, pressing against the buffer with the carrier it should bottom out at the back end of the buffer tube right at the point the squared of portion of the carrier rear is almost contacting the lower's "ears" (the threaded collar where the tube threads in).

riffraff · March 5, 2019, 10:33 AM

Thanks again guys! OK I will play with that some more - I only tested it via the charging handle, going out until it bottoms - I will try to manually push the BCG down to verify.

On the Sprinco orange here is the write up on the spring I'm going on. My Buffer is ~2.5 and the tube is 7 inches. The KAK buffer has just gotta be right, but they don't give as much detail on the KAK spring other than matching it with the buffer (and the KAK spring I think is a much cheaper made spring just I tried it first, so maybe will try the Springco since it's a definite match and better quality anyway)..

Springco Orange:

The ONLY spring specifically engineered for .308 Carbine Platforms that use 7″ Depth M4 extension tubes and short 2.5″ Buffers (including aftermarket “heavy buffers”), this list includes: Aero Precision, Matrix Arms, DPMS, Bushmaster (Post 2010), Remington, CMMG, Mega, SA Defense, Colt 901, Rock River Arms, and more

riffraff · March 5, 2019, 10:45 AM

I'll try manually cycling it some more too - do not do that as much as I should because I'm paranoid about having some real unlucky discharge - the firing pin on these has no spring so it does strike the cartridge, not that it's ever been a problem - just I'd hate to discharge a .308 in the apartment I'm in at the moment

so maybe will go to a safer place for that operation.

stagpanther · March 5, 2019, 11:06 AM

Quote:

I'll try manually cycling it some more too - do not do that as much as I should because I'm paranoid about having some real unlucky discharge - the firing pin on these has no spring so it does strike the cartridge, not that it's ever been a problem - just I'd hate to discharge a .308 in the apartment I'm in at the moment so maybe will go to a safer place for that operation.

Do not do the cycle test with a live cartridge if you can avoid it. The extraction power test mobuck mentions can just as easily be done with a spent case as long as you don't actually try to load it from the magazine. Even if everything goes fine in a test with live cartridge--now that cartridge will have a partially dimpled primer which, while unlikely, could make it more vulnerable to an accidental discharge/slam fire.

riffraff · March 5, 2019, 12:26 PM

Ahhh ok stag - thanks! That's very easy.

stagpanther · March 5, 2019, 02:18 PM

No, problem--good luck. Just "net opinion"--hard to diagnose without the weapon in hand.

riffraff · March 5, 2019, 06:35 PM

I'm playing with the manual cycling, trying to see anything to study harder - here is what I see (basically in my ignorance all looks OK, which could be OK or not OK

)..

I slide the empty cartridge in there, let the bolt kinda slam on it and it goes into battery. I pull back on the charging handle to try to simulate a speed of normal operation and depending on my speed and maybe luck I see a few possibilities - it somehow ejects forward directly at that 1 or 2 oclock (which are physics I do not understand yet I watch it happen), it ejects at a perfect 90 degree directly, it ejects off the deflector then goes forward..

If I go really slow, like not in a way it would ever operate, I can see what it wants to do is fling the round a little before the round has cleared the port where it ejects from, once the round is inline with the opening it is flung out. Kinda amazing how this works actually.

In short though to a novice all seems OK. Any tips on what to be doing in this test?

Thanks!

stagpanther · March 5, 2019, 11:28 PM

It's pretty simple, really--the extractor claw is exerting a downward pressure on the rim edge--while the ejector spring is pushing up; together they are leveraging the case out towards the ejection port. Most of the time, "brass will tell a story" and give hints as to what might be going on. Examine a pile of spent brass--and try to segregate ones that have had problems ejecting. Look for things like damage to the case that appears frequently in the spent brass. My experience has been the better the rifle is tuned, the less damage to the brass there will be. Long scrapes that follow the length of the case might be nothing to worry about as they are probably just the sides of the case dragging against the edges of the extension lugs. If the cases have little pits or dings in the area of the neck or shoulder and the position tends to be repeated on multiple cases--you may have a piece of debris stuck in your chamber--and that can create intermittent cycling problems. Look at the cases in the area of the base of the cases--if the rim edges have signs of tearing or Knicks that could be a sign of dwell timing issue if the bolt is attempting to pull the case before it has relaxed in the chamber. The rim face may also show shiny scrapes as a result of the ejector scoping against them, possibly a sign of over-pressure. Repeated dings in the case mouth may be nothing more than the extractor flipping the case back hard enough so that the mouth impacts the deflector.

Once in a while I'll have a cartridge that for whatever reason "doesn't like" a particular brand of magazines (and sometimes those magazines are premium priced "top quality" ones). However, I've never experienced a magazine issue with a "plain Jane" 308 win/ 7.62 x 51 cartridge. Still, it might be worth trying a few different types of magazines ( a worthwhile investment anyways since, like cartridges, you can never have too many magazines ; ) ) Depending on the mate-up with the magazine well, the magazine might create issues for the gun to consistently and reliably cycle.

Sorry if I'm "scatter shooting" possibilities at you--the inherent drawback of "internet guess diagnostics."

riffraff · March 6, 2019, 05:23 AM

Thanks again stag!

I will say the last round of brass was impeccable, couldn't even find a dented edge. Will keep playing around and monitoring things I guess.

Have always run magpuls but have 2 styles of them, seem interchangeable but maybe I'll try another brand for kicks too - definitely of the opinion you can never have enough mags as well, especially in todays environment - in addition to what is kept in-use I like to have a stash new in the packages.

Mobuck · March 6, 2019, 07:34 AM

For those who wish to cycle live ammo: At some point in my AR "LEGO" period, I received an out of spec firing pin that simply wasn't machined correctly. I ground the tip off far enough to preclude ANY chance of slamfire or even an unintentional hammer drop firing the round.
If I have any sort of need to cycle live ammo, this FP goes in the bolt and I'm confident that nothing bad is going to happen.

riffraff · March 7, 2019, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mobuck

For those who wish to cycle live ammo: At some point in my AR "LEGO" period, I received an out of spec firing pin that simply wasn't machined correctly. I ground the tip off far enough to preclude ANY chance of slamfire or even an unintentional hammer drop firing the round.
If I have any sort of need to cycle live ammo, this FP goes in the bolt and I'm confident that nothing bad is going to happen.

Thanks! That very thought crossed my mind - am going to look into getting a spare pin, at least to add to my set of tools for next time I run into this sort of thing.

stagpanther · March 7, 2019, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Thanks! That very thought crossed my mind - am going to look into getting a spare pin, at least to add to my set of tools for next time I run into this sort of thing.

On that note--don't try running the bolt without the pin--unless you're curious about learning how to unlock a carrier from the upper (it's up there in black-belt screw-up qualifications

).

riffraff · March 7, 2019, 02:49 PM

Haha stag - not going to say the thought didn't cross my mind but once I considered how the bolt and carrier operate I did quickly dismiss the idea

Jsnake711 · March 10, 2019, 06:15 PM

My psa had trouble like this. Eject at 2oclock, jammed brass. Then I got an H buffer and seen adjustable gas bock and all problems were solved. Being over gassed it will eject at 1-2 o'clock. H buffer slowed cycle time and the adjustable gas block allows to tune the gas flow.

Now it ejects perfect at 3 oclock . Ands ive not had any jammed brass. Zero malfunctions.

Rob228 · March 11, 2019, 02:32 AM

Check the ejector spring. I had an issued M-4 a few years back that started showing the same symptoms. When I took the bolt apart I discovered that the ejector spring had become several smaller ejector springs.

riffraff · March 11, 2019, 11:54 AM

Thanks for that guys, seems to be ok at this point but still haven't been able to pull the ejector - got my jig setup then realized my 1/16 punch doesn't fit in the hole so ordered a quality punch that now should. Showed up the past week when I was out of town, see what I find there when I get back.

Jsnake711 · March 15, 2019, 05:24 PM

Oops... ejecting at 1-2 o'clock is bad. Shows over gassed symptoms needs a adjustable gas block

Is this your similar trouble

https://youtu.be/56nzgN8SBbI

February 24, 2019, 07:16 AM	#27
stagpanther Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2014 Posts: 11,771	You mention that you're removing lots of brass shavings from your chamber walls--I see that in AR's that usually have some kind of timing/tuning issue. While a case may get abraded on the way in or out--and in your case maybe it happened a result of the jams--I personally don't think it's a "normal" thing in a really well-built and well-tuned rifle. AR's that I've had that had this problem sometimes were doing it as a result of a slight asymmetry in the bolt lug to extension lock-up and where remedied by disassembly, careful truing and reassemble to assure proper timing of extension to the bolt. Occasionally you might also get the carrier/bolt dragging across the top of the cartridge causing extra damage if the the cartridge is excessively pitched up or down inside the magazine--sometimes the magazine itself might not be positioned quite right in the mag well. My intuition is that if you truly had a gas issue, the problem would manifest itself more frequently than what you're experiencing. Just more internet guesses. PS--what your doing with cutting the case head off to compress the ejector--I did that for years in a simple vice (a drilled out block of work holding the other end) before I finally bought a dedicated tool--but had to be real careful when tapping the pins out else parts went flying. __________________ "Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill *I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!* Last edited by stagpanther; February 24, 2019 at 07:24 AM.

March 3, 2019, 04:43 PM	#28
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Thanks again guys! Here is where I'm at and it's a good place... I started off today with a kak heavy buffer and their matched buffer spring. I ran ppu 7.62, Remington .308, Winchester .308, and some random .308. All was in the 150 grain ballpark. The change made a difference. Direction has shifted with rounds coming out closer to 2 oclock. Also, more subjectively I feel the 7.62 runs better, is thrown further than .308 and more perpendicular. I think it's been over gassed and is now corrected. A couple things to note. Even though it's for my design, the kak buffer was a bit longer, ie I'd say between a 32nd and 64th - could be wear on my old bumper but didn't seem to be significantly off so ran it. Secondly both the kak and sprinco buffer springs are quite a bit longer, which again are for the design I have - higher coil count but also a bit longer coils than the original and noticeably stiffer. The sprinco orange is heavier than the kak so I started with the kak. Last edited by riffraff; March 3, 2019 at 04:51 PM.

March 5, 2019, 02:18 PM	#38
stagpanther Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2014 Posts: 11,771	No, problem--good luck. Just "net opinion"--hard to diagnose without the weapon in hand. __________________ "Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill *I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!*

March 5, 2019, 11:28 PM	#40
stagpanther Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2014 Posts: 11,771	It's pretty simple, really--the extractor claw is exerting a downward pressure on the rim edge--while the ejector spring is pushing up; together they are leveraging the case out towards the ejection port. Most of the time, "brass will tell a story" and give hints as to what might be going on. Examine a pile of spent brass--and try to segregate ones that have had problems ejecting. Look for things like damage to the case that appears frequently in the spent brass. My experience has been the better the rifle is tuned, the less damage to the brass there will be. Long scrapes that follow the length of the case might be nothing to worry about as they are probably just the sides of the case dragging against the edges of the extension lugs. If the cases have little pits or dings in the area of the neck or shoulder and the position tends to be repeated on multiple cases--you may have a piece of debris stuck in your chamber--and that can create intermittent cycling problems. Look at the cases in the area of the base of the cases--if the rim edges have signs of tearing or Knicks that could be a sign of dwell timing issue if the bolt is attempting to pull the case before it has relaxed in the chamber. The rim face may also show shiny scrapes as a result of the ejector scoping against them, possibly a sign of over-pressure. Repeated dings in the case mouth may be nothing more than the extractor flipping the case back hard enough so that the mouth impacts the deflector. Once in a while I'll have a cartridge that for whatever reason "doesn't like" a particular brand of magazines (and sometimes those magazines are premium priced "top quality" ones). However, I've never experienced a magazine issue with a "plain Jane" 308 win/ 7.62 x 51 cartridge. Still, it might be worth trying a few different types of magazines ( a worthwhile investment anyways since, like cartridges, you can never have too many magazines ; ) ) Depending on the mate-up with the magazine well, the magazine might create issues for the gun to consistently and reliably cycle. Sorry if I'm "scatter shooting" possibilities at you--the inherent drawback of "internet guess diagnostics." __________________ "Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill *I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!*

March 10, 2019, 06:15 PM	#46
Jsnake711 Member Join Date: January 18, 2019 Posts: 95	My psa had trouble like this. Eject at 2oclock, jammed brass. Then I got an H buffer and seen adjustable gas bock and all problems were solved. Being over gassed it will eject at 1-2 o'clock. H buffer slowed cycle time and the adjustable gas block allows to tune the gas flow. Now it ejects perfect at 3 oclock . Ands ive not had any jammed brass. Zero malfunctions. Last edited by Jsnake711; March 11, 2019 at 10:38 AM.

February 24, 2019, 03:06 AM	#26
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Thanks again guys! Unfortunately with the current conditions I'm not sure I'm going to be able to shoot tomorrow unless I want to hike in - recent snow, rain coming, and it's been so damn warm everything is real muddy and I don't want to risk getting buried.. but here's where I'm at. My Schuster bolt disassembly tool came in and my bolt fits in there but the surface that compresses the ejector on this tool is about the same diameter of the AR15 model - so it does not properly catch the round tipped Aero ejector. Going to need to take an empty cartridge and cut the end off it, use it as a adapter so it fits my bolt face right... Playing w/ the ejector and compressing it though does not reveal any question about how it operates - compresses smooth and snaps right but to position. Still I'll push it out and replace the spring just to eliminate that. Cleaning the rifle this time I took the extra step of soaking the chamber and barrel w/ tetra. For something that I clean so often and assumed to be in good condition I couldn't believe all the brass flake it freed up - it took me a long time of scrubbing and spraying it off to finally get it clean as the brass kept coming and coming but it's spotless now. The heavy springco buffer spring showed up. I may try that first. What I'm hoping to see is the ejecting happening at more of a 2 o-clock instead of the 1 the way its' been running lately.

March 3, 2019, 04:48 PM	#29
bfoosh006 Senior Member Join Date: February 17, 2009 Posts: 1,089	Glad to hear it is running !

March 4, 2019, 08:18 AM	#30
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	I have a PSA AR10 with both .308 and 6.5C uppers but it's still in the box so I'm just making an offhand comment here. If this was an AR15 platform, I'd say you're still WAY overgassed. Tossing a handful of mismatched buffer/spring parts into the rifle may be counter productive (even though you now have it sort of working). I've seen some pretty gruesome things result from incompatible or mis-matched springs and buffers.

March 5, 2019, 07:52 AM	#32
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	If I was having these problems, I'd start by hand cycling the system slowly to check for hitches or odd movements. Look for any signs that something has shifted or parts are interfering with each other. The fired brass may be escaping the extractor too early in the cycle and being blown out of the chamber by residual pressure. Is it possible the brass is laying in the ejection port and being pushed out forward or being jammed crosswise by the cycling bolt? If the buffer and spring aren't fully compatible, the bolt may not be fully retracting. Your comment "Secondly both the kak and sprinco buffer springs are quite a bit longer, which again are for the design I have ". Is "this design" different from a (somewhat) standard AR 10 (as in "proprietary")? I dunno, I'm simply tossing mud at the wall to see if any sticks.

March 5, 2019, 10:33 AM	#34
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Thanks again guys! OK I will play with that some more - I only tested it via the charging handle, going out until it bottoms - I will try to manually push the BCG down to verify. On the Sprinco orange here is the write up on the spring I'm going on. My Buffer is ~2.5 and the tube is 7 inches. The KAK buffer has just gotta be right, but they don't give as much detail on the KAK spring other than matching it with the buffer (and the KAK spring I think is a much cheaper made spring just I tried it first, so maybe will try the Springco since it's a definite match and better quality anyway).. Springco Orange: The ONLY spring specifically engineered for .308 Carbine Platforms that use 7″ Depth M4 extension tubes and short 2.5″ Buffers (including aftermarket “heavy buffers”), this list includes: Aero Precision, Matrix Arms, DPMS, Bushmaster (Post 2010), Remington, CMMG, Mega, SA Defense, Colt 901, Rock River Arms, and more

March 5, 2019, 10:45 AM	#35
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	I'll try manually cycling it some more too - do not do that as much as I should because I'm paranoid about having some real unlucky discharge - the firing pin on these has no spring so it does strike the cartridge, not that it's ever been a problem - just I'd hate to discharge a .308 in the apartment I'm in at the moment so maybe will go to a safer place for that operation.

March 5, 2019, 12:26 PM	#37
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Ahhh ok stag - thanks! That's very easy.

March 5, 2019, 06:35 PM	#39
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	I'm playing with the manual cycling, trying to see anything to study harder - here is what I see (basically in my ignorance all looks OK, which could be OK or not OK ).. I slide the empty cartridge in there, let the bolt kinda slam on it and it goes into battery. I pull back on the charging handle to try to simulate a speed of normal operation and depending on my speed and maybe luck I see a few possibilities - it somehow ejects forward directly at that 1 or 2 oclock (which are physics I do not understand yet I watch it happen), it ejects at a perfect 90 degree directly, it ejects off the deflector then goes forward.. If I go really slow, like not in a way it would ever operate, I can see what it wants to do is fling the round a little before the round has cleared the port where it ejects from, once the round is inline with the opening it is flung out. Kinda amazing how this works actually. In short though to a novice all seems OK. Any tips on what to be doing in this test? Thanks!

March 6, 2019, 05:23 AM	#41
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Thanks again stag! I will say the last round of brass was impeccable, couldn't even find a dented edge. Will keep playing around and monitoring things I guess. Have always run magpuls but have 2 styles of them, seem interchangeable but maybe I'll try another brand for kicks too - definitely of the opinion you can never have enough mags as well, especially in todays environment - in addition to what is kept in-use I like to have a stash new in the packages.

March 6, 2019, 07:34 AM	#42
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	For those who wish to cycle live ammo: At some point in my AR "LEGO" period, I received an out of spec firing pin that simply wasn't machined correctly. I ground the tip off far enough to preclude ANY chance of slamfire or even an unintentional hammer drop firing the round. If I have any sort of need to cycle live ammo, this FP goes in the bolt and I'm confident that nothing bad is going to happen.

March 7, 2019, 02:49 PM	#45
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Haha stag - not going to say the thought didn't cross my mind but once I considered how the bolt and carrier operate I did quickly dismiss the idea

March 11, 2019, 02:32 AM	#47
Rob228 Senior Member Join Date: May 29, 2010 Location: Hampstead NC Posts: 1,450	Check the ejector spring. I had an issued M-4 a few years back that started showing the same symptoms. When I took the bolt apart I discovered that the ejector spring had become several smaller ejector springs.

March 11, 2019, 11:54 AM	#48
riffraff Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2016 Posts: 629	Thanks for that guys, seems to be ok at this point but still haven't been able to pull the ejector - got my jig setup then realized my 1/16 punch doesn't fit in the hole so ordered a quality punch that now should. Showed up the past week when I was out of town, see what I find there when I get back.

March 15, 2019, 05:24 PM	#49
Jsnake711 Member Join Date: January 18, 2019 Posts: 95	Oops... ejecting at 1-2 o'clock is bad. Shows over gassed symptoms needs a adjustable gas block Is this your similar trouble https://youtu.be/56nzgN8SBbI Last edited by Jsnake711; March 15, 2019 at 05:30 PM.