The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > Handloading, Reloading, and Bullet Casting

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old September 3, 2018, 07:22 PM   #1
ninosdemente
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 23, 2017
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 831
Primer Catcher/3d Printer

Hopefully the right place for this.

I was able to set my Rock Chucker Supreme (RC IV) with a case kicker. But would like to make a prime catcher.... but I don't have a 3d printer to experiment. Has anyone purchased a prime catcher or made one similar to this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:148190?

Wanted to know if this works before I buy one online or unless someone will sell me one if you have a printer and worth your time. Unless online purchase is the best way to go about it.

The case kicker I was able to make was something like this: https://youtu.be/RpEP7orTCR4

Thanks in advanced.
ninosdemente is offline  
Old September 3, 2018, 08:59 PM   #2
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
Ebay search function is your friend

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...primer+catcher

Amazon has them for 7.50 and free shipping

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Primer-C.../dp/B000N8MX90


or you pay 1500 or so for a printer and design your own
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 4, 2018, 07:54 AM   #3
jmorris
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 22, 2006
Posts: 3,076
I printed one that was similar but the exit was on the other side, it works.

I have an Anet 8 printer, it was about $160 shipped, there is no end to things on the site you linked to. Ammomike83’s bullet collator is a winner too.
jmorris is offline  
Old September 4, 2018, 09:00 AM   #4
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
found a file to make them

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413052
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 4, 2018, 01:26 PM   #5
jmorris
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 22, 2006
Posts: 3,076
He linked one in the op that looks pretty good.

This is the one I printed.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84047
jmorris is offline  
Old September 4, 2018, 02:04 PM   #6
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
Does it work ? I need to buy one of the aftermarket ones for myself because I keep a Lee that is set up to be clamped to the bench for depriming my Rockchucker is so bad at spitting fired primers everywhere but where they should go.

Offtopic - but I have another hobby which would benefit from 3D printing and that one you referenced has some decent reviews. They have improved a lot and prices dropped since I last looked at them, thanks
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 4, 2018, 02:46 PM   #7
BumbleBug
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 11, 2013
Location: Near Heart of Texas
Posts: 870
I'm a dye-in-the-wool RCBS guy, but I ditched my Rockchhucker Supreme because I was tired of the primers jumping out everywhere & I didn't think I should have to buy more stuff to clutter up my press throat.

Come on RCBS, you can design an integral primer catcher for crying out load!
__________________
Visit my fictional blog "The dr Chronicles" about a laid-back Texan named dr - Enjoy!
BumbleBug is offline  
Old September 4, 2018, 08:19 PM   #8
FrankenMauser
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 25, 2008
Location: In the valley above the plain
Posts: 13,392
Quote:
I'm a dye-in-the-wool RCBS guy, but I ditched my Rockchhucker Supreme because I was tired of the primers jumping out everywhere & I didn't think I should have to buy more stuff to clutter up my press throat.
I use a neodymium magnet. That's all it took to keep the original primer catch tray in proper alignment - while still not dragging on the ram. In addition, I added a styrene tube inside the ram**. I haven't dropped more primers from the RC IV during decapping than maybe 0.5% in the last 10 years (1 escapee per 200 primers, at most, I'd say).

However... The 'snap-on' style of the original RC IV tray does make removal for primer disposal somewhat tricky and irritating. I've been meaning to print a new primer catch that just uses a magnet to keep it in place. ...But actually typing that sentence out brought to mind that I could just cut the stupid tabs/studs off of the original tray and stick with my neodymium friend.


** A styrene tube inserted into the ram keeps primers from flying out of the priming arm slot. If you like priming on the press, then constantly removing and installing the tube is annoying. But I rarely do such, so it doesn't matter for me. I did the same with my Redding T-7 (a through-ram depriming system, even), but still have far more flying primers with it.
__________________
Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.
FrankenMauser is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 06:35 AM   #9
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
Quote:
I use a neodymium magnet. That's all it took to keep the original primer catch tray in proper alignment - while still not dragging on the ram.
thanks for the tip

I have a tray full of magnets, glued one on each side of the stock catcher and one on the bottom and it caught about 20 primers in a row with none dropped. Works much better than foam between frame and catcher. I have a small piece of aluminum arrow I drop in the ram to stop them from kicking out the front, a cut off piece of drinking straw would work also
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek

Last edited by hounddawg; September 5, 2018 at 08:43 AM.
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 07:17 AM   #10
jmorris
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 22, 2006
Posts: 3,076
Hounddawg, it works. The one that the op linked to looks pretty good too.

Also, found one for the 650 “ski ramp” that’s pretty neat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4OZfe-fstU

Don’t need it if you print off a “switch” for one though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZDT63UZVVE

I have been really impressed with the Anet, incredible for what it costs. You do need to remember that is is a “kit” and you have to bolt it all together and that will take a couple hours.
jmorris is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 07:42 AM   #11
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
@ Jmorris I might pick one of those up. I build and fly quadcopters also so one of those will come in handy
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 08:31 AM   #12
ninosdemente
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 23, 2017
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 831
The links provided are some very creative alternatives... for my needs I would go with the one posted even if it the primers come out from the opposite side.

I was originally was going to purchase a case kicker or something similar to speed up process a bit.

Not that I'm a cheapo... but doesn't hurt to make something one can be proud of that actually works and spend much less at the same time.

I was also planning on rigging the primer catcher but the set up I have doesn't allow me to do much. I will provide picture to show why I need to get something different.

The printer is really inexpensive for it being a 3d printer. I had thought they were much, much more money.
ninosdemente is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 10:46 AM   #13
FrankenMauser
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 25, 2008
Location: In the valley above the plain
Posts: 13,392
Quote:
I have been really impressed with the Anet, incredible for what it costs. You do need to remember that is is a “kit” and you have to bolt it all together and that will take a couple hours.
I have an Anet A8, as well.
It's decent enough for the price.
It took a while to get mine tuned and adjusted properly, only to discover that the print bed warped with heat (I was chasing my tail for a while). One of these days, I'll figure out how to counter that properly with a mechanical fix ... or just buy a Prusa*. For now, I've just learned how to live with it and compensate with tweaks in the slicer and careful part placement.

Two words of advice, hounddawg:
1. DO NOT use thread locking compounds anywhere on the machine during assembly or maintenance. It will absolutely destroy the acrylic frame.

2. Don't buy cheap filament - especially cheap PLA. It isn't worth the headaches that come with the contaminants, short shelf life, and low print quality. I've got about 12 kilos here that I'll never even attempt to use again. Some of it gets brittle so quickly that if it isn't used within a month of opening the package, it breaks while printing. Some of it is just contaminated and clogs the nozzle. Some of it is so far out of round that it won't feed worth a crap. Some of it isn't even the advertised material (ABS with a PLA label, or mystery material with a PLA label). And more problems.

Just stay away from off-brand, cheap filament. The last thing you want to constantly mess with on the Anet A6 or A8 are filament 'changes' or extruder cleaning. It's a fiddly, annoying process on these machines. Even if you have to pay twice as much for 'name brand', it's worth it.


*I'd like a metal frame and better extruder for my machine, plus a print bed that doesn't warp. But by the time those costs add up, I think I'd rather put the money toward a Prusa, or parts for an Arduino-driven DIY printer with a larger print bed (I'd like to be able to prototype parts up to 32" long).
__________________
Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.
FrankenMauser is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 03:04 PM   #14
T. O'Heir
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 12,453
A primer catcher can be made out of a tin can. Or Tupperware. Or a foam cup. Or a small plastic pail. Or a plastic bag.
Or buy one for $20. http://www.primercatcher.com/shop1/i...&product_id=50
"...Ebay search function is your friend..." While they give money, your money, to the people who want to take your firearms away from you.
__________________
Spelling and grammar count!
T. O'Heir is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 05:09 PM   #15
gwpercle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 30, 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 1,735
Cardboard box on the floor....fits every model , adjustable and only $29.95 + shipping !
gwpercle is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 05:58 PM   #16
jmorris
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 22, 2006
Posts: 3,076
Quote:
It took a while to get mine tuned and adjusted properly, only to discover that the print bed warped with heat (I was chasing my tail for a while)
I have a glass tile (mirror) on top of my bed, made life a lot easier.

This is worth reading, it’s about getting the Anet 8 to print out a bullet collator but still worthwhile.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ullet-collator

I’d post some photos here but I can’t figure out how to get the file sizes small enough.
jmorris is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 09:54 PM   #17
FrankenMauser
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 25, 2008
Location: In the valley above the plain
Posts: 13,392
Thanks for the link.
It's quite the read. I'll revisit when I get some free time. (I only made it to the top of page 2.)
__________________
Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.
FrankenMauser is offline  
Old September 5, 2018, 10:36 PM   #18
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
Quote:
A primer catcher can be made out of a tin can. Or Tupperware. Or a foam cup. Or a small plastic pail. Or a plastic bag
problem with my Rockchucker was getting them from the case to the primer catcher.

However I had some magnets and used FrankenMausers trick and for the first time in it's life the RC deprimed 50 primers and 100% of them went into the primer catcher. Those dam magnets and superglue been in my shop the entire time I was cussing that press for crapping spent primers on the floor.

2 hardware store magnets, 1 cut off piece of 1/4 inch tubing or drinking straw, and a bit of superglue from Dollar General and FrankenMauser did what all the engineers at RCBS been chasing their tails in circles over for 50 years.

Kudos
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 08:10 AM   #19
ninosdemente
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 23, 2017
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 831
So here are the pictures...

This is the aluminum piece from Home Depot I wrapped to keep some of the glare off my eyes.

http://www.mentegraphics.com/pictures/63.jpg

Ugly but functional case kicker.

http://www.mentegraphics.com/pictures/64.jpg

With the primer catcher... made around it.

http://www.mentegraphics.com/pictures/65.jpg

The aluminum piece raises when the primer catcher is placed on the press. As you can see not great with the angle, but it raises enough that a rifle brass doesn't slide down. It gets stuck between the plate and the ram. So I can just file/sand down the primer but it still wouldn't solve the problem on having to catch a good majority of the primers and I would have to empty the tray.

http://www.mentegraphics.com/pictures/66.jpg


hounddawg, do you mind posting a picture of what you did? Thanks.
ninosdemente is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 08:57 AM   #20
cptjack
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 1, 2014
Posts: 312
on the rock chucker I shim the primer catcher towards the ram no runaway primers
cptjack is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 10:24 AM   #21
FrankenMauser
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 25, 2008
Location: In the valley above the plain
Posts: 13,392
ninosdemente, those images give me a better understanding of why you want a different primer catch.
Makes more sense now.

What you need is something that stays behind the ram completely, in order to not interfere with your case kicker and chute, right?

Perhaps I'll try to print this one later: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780509
It seems like a better design than the blocky version previously linked, and some hooks could potentially be added to help secure it with rubber bands. ...So long as the stl files import properly. Otherwise, it's a redesign from scratch.


As for my basic solutions to primer containment, here's a photo:
Just one magnet and some tube.



I used styrene tube (split down one side for 'spring' action) in the ram for a bit more strength over something like a straw. It also happened to be easily accessible when I first considered the idea.
Tubing removal is done one of two ways:
1. No die in press: Run the ram to the top, grab the tube with needle-nose pliers, and lower the ram. It pulls right out.
2. Die in press: Raise the ram half an inch, or so. Stab the tube with an X-acto knife with a #11 blade facing down (sharp side down, back of blade up). Lower the ram. Finish extraction by hand or with pliers.

I rarely remove the tubing, since I very, very rarely prime on a press and even more rarely prime on the RC IV.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20180906_090926639.jpg (126.7 KB, 353 views)
__________________
Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.
FrankenMauser is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 11:42 AM   #22
ninosdemente
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 23, 2017
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 831
FrankenMauser, thanks for posting the picture.

Yes, looking for something to clear the chute and kicker. As mentioned, wanted to rig the current catcher by removing some of the plastic to lower the chute and somehow making a hole to insert some type of tube so at least I can just push the primers onto the tube into a bucket/jar instead of having to remove the tray and placing again. I only have one... haven't checked what another would cost if I screw my first attempt but then decided not to go that route.

Appreciate if you do get a chance to print and would compensate monetarily for your time. The least I can do and would rather pay someone here than somewhere else. Thanks again.
ninosdemente is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 12:01 PM   #23
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
Here you are. The magnets came from Lowes, 6 for $3 if I remeber correctly. Just glue them to the bottom of the catcher and when the ram raises it will pull the catcher tight against the ram. Guess you could do a couple on the sides also if you really wantto be sure but these two seem to do the job

__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek
hounddawg is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 02:45 PM   #24
ninosdemente
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 23, 2017
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 831
Thanks for the picture hounddawg, would have been nice if I posted this a long time ago. Lol.
ninosdemente is offline  
Old September 6, 2018, 03:53 PM   #25
hounddawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 1, 2009
Posts: 4,232
kind of neat listening to it operate now. The catcher rocks back when the ram is down then "clicks" forward when the shell holder reaches the magnet. It adds zero friction so the ram slides smoothly with no drag or jerking. Thank's again Franken, the Lee can go back to being a range press. You should really call RCBS to suggest they do this. No retooling would be required on the current catcher. Just add 1 more process step to add a small magnet or two
__________________
“How do I get to the next level?” Well, you get to the next level by being the first one on the range and the last one to leave.” – Jerry Miculek

Last edited by hounddawg; September 6, 2018 at 03:59 PM.
hounddawg is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2021 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Page generated in 0.09464 seconds with 9 queries