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February 7, 2013, 12:41 PM | #1 | |
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Is this an acceptable grease for the M1A?
Someone recommended this particular Valvoline Multi Purpose Grease for lubing the M1A. I'm a less than occasional shooter and will be shooting, initially, factory 150 grain ammo.
Here's the description from Autozone website: Quote:
Also, I repeatedly read that one should not take the gun apart any more than absolutely necessary as it adversely impacts the stock. I have a M1A Standard. If I take it apart more than once a year, does the gun shoot loose, or something? . |
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February 7, 2013, 02:19 PM | #2 |
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The History and Development of the M14 EBR |
February 7, 2013, 04:08 PM | #3 |
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Provided the grease is applied in the right places that brand should be fine. Back in the 80's Lubriuplate was a choice lube. There are a number of synthetics that are popular now.
Dismounting the M1A is not a game breaker. A rifle tuned for best accuracy has an epoxy bed to stabilize the system. Dismounting increases the possibility of damaging or shortening the life of the bedding. In a non bedded rifle it's not an issue but unless there is a serious maintenance problem there is no need to do it.
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February 7, 2013, 08:04 PM | #4 |
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Most any heat and water resistant grease will work just fine.
Many shooters just buy tube of Lithium grease at a hardware or farm supply store or Walmart. The "official" grease for the M14 was Plasti-Lube which is a brown grease that was packed in M14 cleaning kits. Disassembling your Service grade M1A won't harm it, but better to not do it too much. Match grade M1A and M14 rifles are often literally glued into the stock and are never disassembled except for re-barrel and rebuilding. These have all maintenance done with the rifle assembled, including greasing. One pointer in case you aren't aware of it. You can buy or make a bolt roller grease tool to inject grease into the bolt roller. You can buy the tool from Brownell's or you can make one from a 40 caliber pistol case. Just thoroughly clean the case out to get any dirt out of the case AND the primer. Pack the case with grease and force it over the bolt roller. The pressure will force grease into the roller and prevent wear or breakage. |
February 7, 2013, 09:06 PM | #5 |
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I use supertech hi temp grease--works just fine.
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February 8, 2013, 09:32 AM | #6 |
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Lubri-plate 130A, but most any automotive grease well work.
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February 8, 2013, 09:47 AM | #7 |
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I grabbed a can of the high-temp grease from Wally World years ago for a few bucks...still PLENTY left.
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February 8, 2013, 01:20 PM | #8 |
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I have used XF-7 Weapons Lubricant since 2004, it's excellent.
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The History and Development of the M14 EBR |
February 8, 2013, 10:36 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Issue "rack grade" guns do not suffer from full disassembly. Tuned "Match" guns, glass bedded, should not be taken down unless necessary(spring replacement, etc), as damage to the bedding can happen unless you are very careful. And the more often done, the "looser" the fit becomes, even if you are very careful. Not important for combat accuracy, but for winning a match, every little bit counts.
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February 9, 2013, 12:00 AM | #10 |
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Your grease will work just fine. I used similar stuff before I got some lubriplate (brownells). I also found that a small water coloring paint brush works good to apply it. Except of course for the roller. You've got to force it in there.
As has been said, your rifle is not glass bedded or glued so you will have zero problems with field stripping it. It's not totally neccesary, but the only negative you will have probably is that your POI may shift a little after reassembly. And it may take a few shots to settle the action back into the stock. Remember, it is after all a battle rifle. Now if you really want to start tinkering, talk to Kraig and some others on here and visit the m14 forum. There are a few very simple and cheap things you can do to your rifle like shimming the sides of the receiver with card stock and shimming the gas cylinder that can really improve accuracy. |
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