Brownells Oxpho-Blue

vanfunk · August 20, 1999, 02:39 PM

Anyone have any tips for effective use of Oxpho-Blue? Is the color at all close to the S&W factory finish? I'll just be using it for touching up some wear spots. Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

------------------
semper ubi sub ubi

JoeHatley · August 20, 1999, 03:11 PM

I use the stuff all the time. It will do an okay job for touch ups on your Smith, but it probably isn't going to match the factory blue. If you apply it multiple times, buffing with 0000 steel wool in between each, it will come pretty close. Joe

------------------
Go NRA

hclark · August 23, 1999, 10:11 PM

I like the Oxpho Blue, but if you want to get closer to the old S&W blue, use the Dichropan T4 for touch up. I reblued a Luger shooter with Oxpho-Blue and it came out pretty good with some splotches (didn't get rid of all the oil), then came back with the T4 and it really made the "blue" show Up.

Dakotan · August 25, 1999, 12:29 AM

Having used Oxpho-Blue (great product!) for about ten years now, I've found that multiple applications are the best way to achieve the darkest coloring. If the area you are touching up can be made horizontal, let the blue "puddle" (or hold a cloth soaked with Oxpho-Blue) on that area for 30 to 60 seconds. It seems that the "wetter" the area stays, the darker the final finish will be. Good Luck and Take Care- Dakotan

JJR · August 25, 1999, 01:24 AM

I tried re-blueing on old 870 last weekend just for fun and I used Oxpho-Blue. After about the 2nd application I could no longer get the blue to "puddle up" as was mentioned. It just beaded up and ran around the metal kinda' like that silver stuff in Terminator II

. The darkest finish I could achieve (after a whole afternoon of doing this) was a very light gray. What am I doing wrong?

George Stringer · August 25, 1999, 07:12 AM

The best way to use Oxpho-Blue is to use cotton balls and after the first application, squeeze almost all of the solution out before applying. You only want the ball to be damp. By applying wet you are actually removing the previous application. Then burnish, burnish, burnish with #0000 steel wool. Repeat until desired finish is achieved. George

jjk308 · August 27, 1999, 09:23 AM

Try heating the metal to just below boiling, apply with 000 steel wool. You don't have to degrease when using the steel wool, some oil seems to spread the blue around more evenly. When done, just wipe with a damp cloth. This is the only cold blue I've found that does not cause after rusting, due to the phosphoric acid in it. It will not blue all steels, however, and case hardened parts may be a problem.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

August 20, 1999, 02:39 PM	#1
vanfunk Senior Member Join Date: June 19, 1999 Posts: 472	Anyone have any tips for effective use of Oxpho-Blue? Is the color at all close to the S&W factory finish? I'll just be using it for touching up some wear spots. Thanks in advance for your wisdom. ------------------ semper ubi sub ubi

August 20, 1999, 03:11 PM	#2
JoeHatley Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 1999 Location: Iowa Posts: 2,135	I use the stuff all the time. It will do an okay job for touch ups on your Smith, but it probably isn't going to match the factory blue. If you apply it multiple times, buffing with 0000 steel wool in between each, it will come pretty close. Joe ------------------ Go NRA

August 23, 1999, 10:11 PM	#3
hclark Member Join Date: July 18, 1999 Posts: 15	I like the Oxpho Blue, but if you want to get closer to the old S&W blue, use the Dichropan T4 for touch up. I reblued a Luger shooter with Oxpho-Blue and it came out pretty good with some splotches (didn't get rid of all the oil), then came back with the T4 and it really made the "blue" show Up.

August 25, 1999, 12:29 AM	#4
Dakotan Senior Member Join Date: August 24, 1999 Posts: 174	Having used Oxpho-Blue (great product!) for about ten years now, I've found that multiple applications are the best way to achieve the darkest coloring. If the area you are touching up can be made horizontal, let the blue "puddle" (or hold a cloth soaked with Oxpho-Blue) on that area for 30 to 60 seconds. It seems that the "wetter" the area stays, the darker the final finish will be. Good Luck and Take Care- Dakotan

August 25, 1999, 01:24 AM	#5
JJR Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 1999 Location: Idaho Posts: 381	I tried re-blueing on old 870 last weekend just for fun and I used Oxpho-Blue. After about the 2nd application I could no longer get the blue to "puddle up" as was mentioned. It just beaded up and ran around the metal kinda' like that silver stuff in Terminator II . The darkest finish I could achieve (after a whole afternoon of doing this) was a very light gray. What am I doing wrong?

August 25, 1999, 07:12 AM	#6
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	The best way to use Oxpho-Blue is to use cotton balls and after the first application, squeeze almost all of the solution out before applying. You only want the ball to be damp. By applying wet you are actually removing the previous application. Then burnish, burnish, burnish with #0000 steel wool. Repeat until desired finish is achieved. George

August 27, 1999, 09:23 AM	#7
jjk308 Member Join Date: August 26, 1999 Location: Oldsmar, FL Posts: 16	Try heating the metal to just below boiling, apply with 000 steel wool. You don't have to degrease when using the steel wool, some oil seems to spread the blue around more evenly. When done, just wipe with a damp cloth. This is the only cold blue I've found that does not cause after rusting, due to the phosphoric acid in it. It will not blue all steels, however, and case hardened parts may be a problem.