The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Hide > The Art of the Rifle: General

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old December 12, 2012, 07:16 PM   #26
Tempest 455
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 17, 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 118
I used geat stuff in the rear portion of the stock and epoxy and steel rods in the front. Night and day difference how rigid it is.
Tempest 455 is offline  
Old December 12, 2012, 07:34 PM   #27
jimbob86
Junior member
 
Join Date: October 4, 2007
Location: All the way to NEBRASKA
Posts: 8,722
Regular Great Stuff expands as it cures..... could be bad ju-ju.

They make a "Windows and Doors" formula (blue can) that does not.

Liquid Nails shrinks as it cures.... could also be bad, if used without something for an aggregate .....
jimbob86 is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 02:43 AM   #28
Polinese
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2010
Posts: 792
So I used the great stuff foam. And maybe it needs longer to cure (been about 9 hours) but it didn't get as hard and rigid as I thought it would. It's all still pretty soft and spongy.
Polinese is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 10:00 AM   #29
Picher
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 14, 2004
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,648
"So I used the great stuff foam. And maybe it needs longer to cure (been about 9 hours) but it didn't get as hard and rigid as I thought it would. It's all still pretty soft and spongy."

It helps to put a little Viagra in it.
Picher is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 10:10 AM   #30
hooligan1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: July 18, 2010
Location: Independence Missouri
Posts: 4,512
Picher.... nevermind....
On the stock filling, I used 1/2 of a 1lb ankle weight, in the buttstock of my son's Turk Mauser, the new barrel will be a 26 inch Douglas fluted with muzzle break, and I figure it would help balance it out for pointability.
__________________
Keep your Axe sharp and your powder dry.
hooligan1 is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 11:56 AM   #31
Polinese
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2010
Posts: 792
I'm gonna see if I can dig the foam out of there and find some kind of resin to fill it in with. maybe something I can pour in there. I'm gonna use bondo on the forearm but looks like i would need quite a bit of bondo and stuffing it in there could probably get annoying.
Polinese is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 04:36 PM   #32
Polinese
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2010
Posts: 792
So for those interested...

Used loctite epoxy putty to fill in the forearm and it stiffened it up nicely and added a nice bit of weight. Also used the putty to fill in the trigger guard area then epoxied it in place (had to grind some of the putty out to allow proper fitting of the trigger)

All that's left is filling in that hollow butt stock after I finish digging all the foam out. I've had to dig it out little by little. Pry a hardened chunk out, let the still wet foam underneath cure, pry that out etc. Almost got it all out.

I had used loctite instant epoxy to fill in some of the smaller holes in the stock and that worked great hardened nicely didn't shrink. Does anyone know of something liek that I can buy in a bigger quantity than the little tube they sell at walmart? I think it'd work great but can't imagine how many of those little thigns I'd need to fill in even half of the buttstock.
Polinese is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 05:49 PM   #33
wpsdlrg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 18, 2009
Posts: 826
Why the heck would you "dig the foam out" after filling the butt with it ? The poly foam is NOT supposed to become rock hard....and that doesn't matter anyway. Filled with the cured foam, the butt stock is much more rigid than before - as rigid as it ever needs to be.

If you insist that it be hard as a rock....I would suggest filling it with concrete. Then, you'll get that "rock hard" feeling you want.....
wpsdlrg is offline  
Old December 20, 2012, 06:39 PM   #34
sc928porsche
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 29, 2008
Location: now living in alabama
Posts: 2,433
check my previous post
__________________
No such thing as a stupid question. What is stupid is not asking it.
sc928porsche is offline  
Old December 21, 2012, 09:49 PM   #35
bamaranger
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 9, 2009
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 7,465
worms

Adding "real" weight (BB's, lead shot, etc) to the butt only, always makes a longgun feel all out of balance to me, way too whippy and muzzle light.

I have used the foam worms, , couple of handfulls dropped in and tamped flush quited them down well.
bamaranger is offline  
Old December 22, 2012, 02:18 AM   #36
Metal god
Senior Member
 
Join Date: April 10, 2012
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 5,670
Bondo comes in 1 gal can . you will be mixing alot so do it outside . that stuff reeks
__________________
If Jesus had a gun , he'd probably still be alive !

I almost always write my posts regardless of content in a jovial manor and intent . If that's not how you took it , please try again .
Metal god is offline  
Old December 22, 2012, 12:34 PM   #37
Polinese
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2010
Posts: 792
I actually had some bondo, returned it, and bought a whole bunch of epoxy putty that i used to fill the forearm and trigger guard area. Worked great. Contemplating just using the same stuff on the stock, and I'm going to leave a little space in there for a small survival kit (plus the recoil pad inserts into the stock)
Polinese is offline  
Old April 20, 2021, 12:58 PM   #38
Rothenburg
Junior Member
 
Join Date: September 17, 2019
Posts: 2
Fill

I recently bought a Tikka CTR in .308 . I was preparing to fill the butt stock with cut up memory foam. When I removed the rear plate I discovered that it was already factory filled with dense foam with a plastic honeycomb grid. I don't know if this is Tikka s.o.p. or something that has been recently adopted. Either way I can't make it any better
Rothenburg is offline  
Old April 20, 2021, 01:21 PM   #39
Bill DeShivs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 10,619
You guys better hope you never have to take the stocks off of your rifles!
If you must fill the stock, do it with something that can be easily removed, otherwise you have Bubba'd up your gun.
__________________
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
www.billdeshivs.com
Bill DeShivs is offline  
Old April 20, 2021, 04:41 PM   #40
Geezerbiker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 20, 2011
Location: Willamina, OR
Posts: 1,639
There's a 2 part epoxy called Magic Sculpt. It's an art product but it sticks to almost anything and it's strong. Once mixed, you work it like clay. The best part is it's non toxic and it has almost no smell. Once cured has a consistency similar to hard wood.

I've used it to repair motorcycle side covers for years and later on I used it in the forearms of a couple plastic stocks to stiffen them up...

Tony
Geezerbiker is offline  
Old April 21, 2021, 06:22 PM   #41
wachtelhund1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 4, 2007
Location: pelican lake, WI
Posts: 300
I made several stocks with carbon fiber that I hand laid up in a mold. In the forearm, I put pink insulation material from half and one inch thick insulation board and a piece of aluminum to attach a sling stud. In forearm and grip areas, the foam was shaped and epoxied in. In the butt the foam was shaped for a semi-tight fit and epoxied in about a 1/2" from the butt pad line. I shaped a piece of hard wood to fit in on top of the foam to hold screws for the butt pad.

CZ Carbon Kevlar stock, 1 1/2 pounds.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CZ Carbon Kelvar.jpg (514.9 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg CZ carbon kelvar2.jpg (512.7 KB, 20 views)

Last edited by wachtelhund1; April 21, 2021 at 06:28 PM.
wachtelhund1 is offline  
Old April 21, 2021, 08:23 PM   #42
jdc606
Member
 
Join Date: October 24, 2015
Posts: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by wachtelhund1 View Post
I made several stocks with carbon fiber that I hand laid up in a mold. In the forearm, I put pink insulation material from half and one inch thick insulation board and a piece of aluminum to attach a sling stud. In forearm and grip areas, the foam was shaped and epoxied in. In the butt the foam was shaped for a semi-tight fit and epoxied in about a 1/2" from the butt pad line. I shaped a piece of hard wood to fit in on top of the foam to hold screws for the butt pad.

CZ Carbon Kevlar stock, 1 1/2 pounds.
You have skills, very nice and well thought out.
jdc606 is offline  
Old April 22, 2021, 06:51 AM   #43
stagpanther
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 8,633
The thread back from the dead! The original axis was about as rigid in the wrist as a piece of freshly boiled linguini. I had quite a few of them and soon realized you could about halve the size of the groups if you did a "stiffie" job on the Tupperware stuck. What I found worked best for the butt/wrist/comb region was to fill it with envirotex; it flowed easily into the nooks and crannies. Adds some but not much weight. I poured into the stock clamped vertically, leaving a little room for expansion at the buttpad area. It does heat up a bit while curing, but as far as I can tell is totally rigid and has never cracked. Problem with the old axis stock is that once you pop the buttpad off you'll likely need to permanently re-attach it since the pop-up tab will almost certainly break, but that's never been an issue with me.
__________________
If you’re ever hiking in the woods and you get lost, just look up and find the brightest star in the sky and you’ll know which way space is.
I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!
stagpanther is offline  
Old April 22, 2021, 11:45 AM   #44
Pahoo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,268
Polly resin stocks, are "Drums"

Quote:
Does anyone have suggestions for a good material/method to fill in the butt of a hollow stock (Savage axis) to add some weight and rigidity.
Since my last reply, I encountered a new hollow-stock project. You want to add weight and for whatever reason, that's you call. You also want to add some rigidity and not sure why or when end-results you are looking for.

As stated before, I have used Great-Stuff on a previous stock with not so great results. By my measure, the flexing of the stock walls is acting like the diaphragm of a drum. It took some work but was able to reduce the "drumming" by inserting wooden baffles that span from wall to wall. I epoxied them to the inside contact areas, as deep into the wrist as I could reach. It only cost me time and was more effective then foam. Now "If" I wans to add weight, I can epoxy that material, between baffle walls. .....

Be Safe !!!
__________________
'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

Last edited by Pahoo; April 22, 2021 at 06:38 PM.
Pahoo is offline  
Old April 22, 2021, 03:30 PM   #45
Paul B.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 28, 1999
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,429
I did two Butler Creek plastic stocks. Both rifles were FN Mausers, one a commercial FN and the other a JC Higgins M50. On the commercial I used a glass bedding kit, actually two to fill the forearm for stiffness and the butt stock to reduce the booming sound when bumped. Did the job OK but made he rifle heavier than I care for. It is very accurate with the changes to the stock.
For the JC Higgins I got some threaded rod from the hardware store and a can of foam used to insulate wiring it said on the can. It expands very rapidly so when you use it you have to move fast. First I cut the rod to fit the barrel channel, then shot the foam into the channel and quickly dropped the barreled action into the stock. Two things to remember, use a release agent on the barreled action and plenty of masking on the stock. On the butt the rifle has an altered butt plate from I think some military rifle, possibly an 03 Springfield. Filling the butt was easy as I just opened the little trapdoor and shot the foam in that way, then slammed the trapdoor shut before the foam could leak out. That rifle has been about ten years now with that foam filled stock and it's still going strong.
Paul B.
__________________
COMPROMISE IS NOT AN OPTION!
Paul B. is offline  
Old April 22, 2021, 07:56 PM   #46
Bill DeShivs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 10,619
Let me ask a question: if you need to remove the stock, how are you going to get it off if you have it epoxied to the stock bolt?
Kinda like welding your car trunk shut.
__________________
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
www.billdeshivs.com
Bill DeShivs is offline  
Old April 22, 2021, 09:45 PM   #47
Polinese
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2010
Posts: 792
I didn't epoxy anything as far as holding the action in place. I merely filled in all the empty voids in the forearm and stock areas to make the whole thing more rigid. It wasn't at all like a glass bedding or anything.

That rifle has since been put into a boyds stock once they became available and recently an oyrx chassis. The original stock I filled in and stiffened (which held up and worked perfectly as I wasn't concerned about weight) has long since been discarded but served me well until alternatives were available.
Polinese is offline  
Old April 22, 2021, 10:30 PM   #48
Carl the Floor Walker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 3, 2017
Posts: 1,165
You could use "Duct Putty" (seal). It is on the Heavy and solid and cost about a $1.00 a bar. I use it to place in my Air Rifle Pellet Traps. Again it is a heavy material that can be molded,(like silly putty) is a excellent Sound Dampening material and last for years.

Depending on how much weight to use, for a lighter effect as I did one gun, I wrapped the duct putty in Sound Damping sheets. And I can simply pull the material out with ease if I want to.



Here is a video of the "SILENT" pellet trap. Notice more pics and use of the Duct Putty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEiZ25QJg7M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnQJFo3X2zs

Last edited by Carl the Floor Walker; April 22, 2021 at 11:59 PM.
Carl the Floor Walker is offline  
Old April 23, 2021, 12:07 PM   #49
Don Fischer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 2, 2017
Posts: 1,826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill DeShivs View Post
You guys better hope you never have to take the stocks off of your rifles!
If you must fill the stock, do it with something that can be easily removed, otherwise you have Bubba'd up your gun.
Say this again. When I was a kid I had a single shot 16ga with a plastic stock. Unscrew the plug in the but stock and it was hollow inside, think it was to add sand for weight. Well I added mixture of flour and water. Got pretty heavy with that and set up there was no getting it out!
Don Fischer is offline  
Old April 23, 2021, 04:11 PM   #50
stagpanther
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 8,633
Quote:
how are you going to get it off if you have it epoxied to the stock bolt?
I just use a hammer and nail punch to light off the primer--works great.

Actually--if what you are really saying is make sure you remove the action before using an epoxy (unless you use a release) I'd say yup--that makes sense. Otherwise, an old plastic axis stock is not something I waste much emotion on preserving it's long-term investment value.
__________________
If you’re ever hiking in the woods and you get lost, just look up and find the brightest star in the sky and you’ll know which way space is.
I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!
stagpanther is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2020 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Page generated in 0.11042 seconds with 9 queries