July 3, 2008, 03:04 PM | #1 |
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Why crimp?
I have allot of .224 cal bullets that I plan on using in my ar15 that dont have a cannelure....How do I crimp them? Is it not neccesary?
How do I know my bullet has an "adequate" crimp on it? I recently smashed a casing in and ruined the cartridge. (Yes I retreived the bullet and powder ) But! I decided to give up and make them without a crimp. Please help me decide *Crimp them w/o cannelured bullets (How do I know to stop tightening down the die?) *Dont crimp them, crimping is unnecesary Thanks guys! -Dave
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July 3, 2008, 03:43 PM | #2 |
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Seems to be personal preference, its more like what works for you. Myself, I crimp for semi auto fed rifles. I use the Lee Factory Crimp die with a light crimp, canelure or not. Just enough crimp to NOT resize the bullet. I use the Lee FCD for everything.
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July 3, 2008, 04:45 PM | #3 |
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If it's ammo to be used in a bolt action, I don't crimp (I suppose one might if it's one of those heavy recoiling calibers, but I don't own a rifle that powerful). If you're going to use it in a semi-auto, crimping (and using bullets with a cannelure) is IMHO necessary. The same goes for Lever actions (make sure you're using flat point bullets).
In pistols, I taper crimp (just enough to even out the case mouth) semi-auto rounds, and put a rather heavy roll crimp on my .44 Mag rounds (you don't need a real heavy crimp on "lighter" calibers, but a crimp is necessary nonetheless). As to "why" I do it this way: In my heavy loads in my .44, I find the powder doesn't burn all the way without a heavy crimp to sort of "hold it together" while ignition is taking place, and, in most revolvers, we do it to keep the bullets from moving to and fro in the case from recoil. In semi-auto rifles and lever actions, it's to help prevent bullet setback as the action cycles, and in the case of the lever action, to keep rounds in front of the tube from pushing the bullets on round behind them back into the case. In the average bolt-action, none of this is a concern, so no crimp... Auto pistol rounds, I taper crimp to make sure the rounds will feed (expanded cases won't feed right without this). |
July 3, 2008, 05:55 PM | #4 |
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I don't crimp except for revolvers and leveraction rifles. I think it's a sin to crimp a match bullet. If the bullet has a cannelure, it probably doesn't hurt--for simplicities sake, I'd probably crimp into the cannelure if I was going that route (but you don't have to).
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July 3, 2008, 06:12 PM | #5 |
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Curiosity
I just made some .223 ar15 loads, used some M193 speer that came with a cannaleur and I seated to mid can. and crimped a lil for some love, also...I made 50 of them. I made 50 BTHP match 52 grain hornady .223 rem and some 60 gr. v-max .223 rem and I have them a LITTTLE TINY TINY TINY crimp. Just so if I "had" to crimp them it would be alright. Worst to worst. Single shot AR : D This is match ammo with expencive powder and benchrest primers. The only cheap stuff was the speer M193 that I made with some olf aguila range brass from surppy ammo. Sall good. Lets see how she shoots! : D
Out of curiosity....How many ar15 shooters/reloaders crimp because there rifle is a semi?
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July 3, 2008, 06:18 PM | #6 |
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Target Ammo NO crimp!!!
Old Sneaky here: I reload .223 and 6.5Swed>>>.223=AR- 15 & .6.5Swed=m41/B Sniper and I NEVER crimp. I've talked to the Reloding Techs at the AMU at Benning about that. Target/hunting NO crimp>>Combat/Tac OPs crimp. Kind of makes sence, doesn't it????THANX--SNEAKY
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July 3, 2008, 08:01 PM | #7 |
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Well I thought the cartridges were fine as tight as they were...crimp seems to be a waste of adjustment time, accuracy by slightly displacing the cented bullet and strait case walls, and just another factor to throw into pressure.
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July 3, 2008, 10:25 PM | #8 |
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I never crimp my 223 Rem reloads. I just make sure there is enough neck tension to resist bullet set back when chambering.
Checkout the reloading forum on the ar15.com site. Lots of good info for loading semi-automatics. Almost nobody crimps for their ARs. |
July 6, 2008, 07:16 PM | #9 |
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The lee collet style crimp is supposed to easily crimp without a cannelure. I have no experience with this, but I have read that it is a good idea to do with semiautos, and with my cannalure bullets, I did try with and without and found a slight gain in accuracy with the crimp. I have also heard of loss of accuracy with crimping on match loads.
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July 7, 2008, 12:11 AM | #10 |
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I never crimp. I can't tell you how many rounds I fire out of my AR in matches.
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July 7, 2008, 11:28 PM | #11 |
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If I feel like it, How do you adjust a hornady die to crimp? The thing either doesnt crimp or buckles the necks...WHAT AM I DOING WONG? Thanks!
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July 8, 2008, 12:24 AM | #12 |
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You need to make sure that all the cases are the same length for that type of crimp. Seat the bullet, then back the die out and then set the crimp. If you get the Lee Factory crimp then case length is not a factor.
EPR105
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July 8, 2008, 12:31 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
WildnowigoingtohugmineforawhilebecauseitheardthewordcrimpanditssensitiveAlaska TM |
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July 8, 2008, 10:44 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Back out your seating stem all the way. Back your seating/crimp die out several turns. Place a cartridge in shell holder and run ram all the way up so the cartridge goes into the die but nothing touches. Slowly screw your die down until you feel contact with the cartridge. Your crimp sholder in the die is now setting on the case mouth. Lower ram a inch or so, screw in the die 1/8 turn and run the ram back up to the top. Check your crimp. Repeat the 1/8 turn (or less), crimp process until you get the crimp you want. |
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July 8, 2008, 04:34 PM | #15 |
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There's absolutely no reason to crimp for ARs.
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July 8, 2008, 05:23 PM | #16 |
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I never crimp for bolt, single shot or magazine fed rifles. It probably makes sense for a tubular magazine like a Marlin 336 or a machine gun though. The only tubular mag I have is a .357 Marlin and a .45 Taurus Thunderbolt. I crimp for my .357 and .45 Long Colt loads.
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July 8, 2008, 09:00 PM | #17 |
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I cant notice the difference between an uncrimped round and a crimped one and the cases always buckle and I waste a dcasing and primer/... :*( HHow do I know when to stop?
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