Cannelure Tools

Peter M. Eick · September 14, 2000, 09:27 PM

I have been thinking about buying a cannelure tool for my 357 sig rounds. (my attempt to get Lee to make a Factory crimp collet die expired due to "technical problems")

What brands/models do you recommend, and how have you like them?

------------------
P229 Sport and 357 SIG, H&K P7PSP and 9MM, Dual Perfection!!

rkmstr · September 14, 2000, 10:17 PM

The only one I know of is Corbin. It does the job. I had to epoxy the wheel that makes the cannelure because the set screw kept loosening up and put rubber electrical tape on the crank handle to keep from getting blisters. Someone else I heard from had to epoxy a nut on the depth screw because they stripped the threads. Minor problems it is a simple "machine".

Once you get on to it, it isn't that bad. What choice do we have if you reload .357sig? I can do 3-4 hundred in 45 min or so not pushing it, then my arm gives out. A couple of nights to do a thousand.

Gary

WalterGAII · September 15, 2000, 12:28 AM

I'm the guy who epoxied the nut, but it was the small nut controling the placement of the cannelure on the bullet, not the depth.

I haven't had any trouble with the setscrew on the cutter wheel.

I load a bunch of .400 Cor-Bon and am back into .40 Super. I cannelure every bullet and roll crimp into the cannelure.

I can do a bullet just under every three seconds. I don't understand the blister thing, as the handle rotates, not causing any rubbing on your fingers.

Contender · September 16, 2000, 07:43 PM

C&H 4D Die has the Old CH Tool for sale. Here is the link:

http://www.ch4d.com/ch4d/Catalog/Page16a.htm#CH%20'Solid%20Steel'%20Cannelure%20Tool

Kaliburz · September 17, 2000, 12:42 PM

So, how much of a problem is bullet set back, if I got my terms right? I just picked up some RCBS 357 Sig dies....should pick up a cannelur tool for pistol bottle neck rounds too?

I'm planning to set up my Glock 21 to shoot 40 Super, is it "cheap" insurace to cannelur the bullets? Just wonding....

WalterGAII · September 17, 2000, 01:23 PM

I just got through sizing some .40 Super cases for my G21. Having blown up my first G21, by letting a .400 CorBon setback, I'd just have to say that I don't load a single bullet in either .400 or .40 Super that's not cannelured.

Canneluring adds yet another step to reloading, but, in my case, it's worth it.

rkmstr · September 17, 2000, 01:24 PM

I wouldn't reload a .357sig without a cannelure.

What convinced me was the "Thumb Test" and very few passed without canneluring. After I started canneluring I get 50# + on the ones I random test.

Bullet setback is a problem. And almost a sure kB if fired that way...

munir · September 19, 2000, 10:50 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rkmstr:
I wouldn't reload a .357sig without a cannelure.
[/quote]

I like firing the .357 SIG, and I have been pipe-dreaming about relaoding it. I think a cannelure is a groove around the bullet into which you crimp the case, to hold the bullet more tightly.

The reloading manuals I have read talk about a fair amount of testing to determine bullet seating depth. How does this work with a cannelure? Do you load one round so that it's the right overall length and the bullet is set where you want it, and then calculate where to cut the cannelure from that?

Thanks,

Munir

------------------
ahlan wa sahlan
PCV Yemen 1984-86

rkmstr · September 19, 2000, 11:05 PM

munir

You've got the idea. I usually set the OAL 1.125 with JFP bullets. You might try loading a test round to the OAL you want. Then use a felt tip pen or marker and put a mark around the bullet at the end of the case. Pull the bullet and you have a mark on it where the crimp should be. Use that as a guide when setting up your tool. Your cannelure will be much wider than the crimp so I set it for the center. This also compensates for slight case length variations.

Gary

[This message has been edited by rkmstr (edited September 20, 2000).]

WalterGAII · September 20, 2000, 12:24 PM

For judging where to cut the cannelure at various o.a.l.'s, I just place the bullet by a case between the jaws of the caliper, with the caliper preset to my desired o.a.l. That tells me where the cannelure needs to be. Quicker and simpler than having to pull a bullet.

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September 14, 2000, 09:27 PM	#1
Peter M. Eick Senior Member Join Date: August 3, 1999 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 2,991	I have been thinking about buying a cannelure tool for my 357 sig rounds. (my attempt to get Lee to make a Factory crimp collet die expired due to "technical problems") What brands/models do you recommend, and how have you like them? ------------------ P229 Sport and 357 SIG, H&K P7PSP and 9MM, Dual Perfection!!

September 14, 2000, 10:17 PM	#2
rkmstr Member Join Date: August 19, 2000 Location: Middlebury, IN, USA Posts: 50	The only one I know of is Corbin. It does the job. I had to epoxy the wheel that makes the cannelure because the set screw kept loosening up and put rubber electrical tape on the crank handle to keep from getting blisters. Someone else I heard from had to epoxy a nut on the depth screw because they stripped the threads. Minor problems it is a simple "machine". Once you get on to it, it isn't that bad. What choice do we have if you reload .357sig? I can do 3-4 hundred in 45 min or so not pushing it, then my arm gives out. A couple of nights to do a thousand. Gary

September 15, 2000, 12:28 AM	#3
WalterGAII Junior member Join Date: November 7, 1999 Posts: 1,516	I'm the guy who epoxied the nut, but it was the small nut controling the placement of the cannelure on the bullet, not the depth. I haven't had any trouble with the setscrew on the cutter wheel. I load a bunch of .400 Cor-Bon and am back into .40 Super. I cannelure every bullet and roll crimp into the cannelure. I can do a bullet just under every three seconds. I don't understand the blister thing, as the handle rotates, not causing any rubbing on your fingers.

September 16, 2000, 07:43 PM	#4
Contender Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 1998 Location: NY Posts: 680	C&H 4D Die has the Old CH Tool for sale. Here is the link: http://www.ch4d.com/ch4d/Catalog/Page16a.htm#CH%20'Solid%20Steel'%20Cannelure%20Tool

September 17, 2000, 12:42 PM	#5
Kaliburz Senior Member Join Date: August 2, 2000 Location: Northwest Posts: 128	So, how much of a problem is bullet set back, if I got my terms right? I just picked up some RCBS 357 Sig dies....should pick up a cannelur tool for pistol bottle neck rounds too? I'm planning to set up my Glock 21 to shoot 40 Super, is it "cheap" insurace to cannelur the bullets? Just wonding....

September 17, 2000, 01:23 PM	#6
WalterGAII Junior member Join Date: November 7, 1999 Posts: 1,516	I just got through sizing some .40 Super cases for my G21. Having blown up my first G21, by letting a .400 CorBon setback, I'd just have to say that I don't load a single bullet in either .400 or .40 Super that's not cannelured. Canneluring adds yet another step to reloading, but, in my case, it's worth it.

September 17, 2000, 01:24 PM	#7
rkmstr Member Join Date: August 19, 2000 Location: Middlebury, IN, USA Posts: 50	I wouldn't reload a .357sig without a cannelure. What convinced me was the "Thumb Test" and very few passed without canneluring. After I started canneluring I get 50# + on the ones I random test. Bullet setback is a problem. And almost a sure kB if fired that way...

September 19, 2000, 10:50 PM	#8
munir Member Join Date: January 25, 2000 Posts: 92	<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rkmstr: I wouldn't reload a .357sig without a cannelure. [/quote] I like firing the .357 SIG, and I have been pipe-dreaming about relaoding it. I think a cannelure is a groove around the bullet into which you crimp the case, to hold the bullet more tightly. The reloading manuals I have read talk about a fair amount of testing to determine bullet seating depth. How does this work with a cannelure? Do you load one round so that it's the right overall length and the bullet is set where you want it, and then calculate where to cut the cannelure from that? Thanks, Munir ------------------ ahlan wa sahlan PCV Yemen 1984-86

September 19, 2000, 11:05 PM	#9
rkmstr Member Join Date: August 19, 2000 Location: Middlebury, IN, USA Posts: 50	munir You've got the idea. I usually set the OAL 1.125 with JFP bullets. You might try loading a test round to the OAL you want. Then use a felt tip pen or marker and put a mark around the bullet at the end of the case. Pull the bullet and you have a mark on it where the crimp should be. Use that as a guide when setting up your tool. Your cannelure will be much wider than the crimp so I set it for the center. This also compensates for slight case length variations. Gary [This message has been edited by rkmstr (edited September 20, 2000).]

September 20, 2000, 12:24 PM	#10
WalterGAII Junior member Join Date: November 7, 1999 Posts: 1,516	For judging where to cut the cannelure at various o.a.l.'s, I just place the bullet by a case between the jaws of the caliper, with the caliper preset to my desired o.a.l. That tells me where the cannelure needs to be. Quicker and simpler than having to pull a bullet.