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Old October 25, 2017, 08:51 PM   #1
dirtman45
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JB Browning lock

Have been working up loads for my White Tail hunt in two weeks and today when using the set trigger the rifle would not drop the hammer.resetting did not produce results. The trigger would just pull back, go click, but no hammer drop. Took it apart looked and put it back together. Put a rag on the nipple went thru the motions and would woork as intended. Loaded it up, stepped up to fire and would not drop the hammer. Took it all apart, cleaned with One Shot, blew it out with air and lubed with Rem oil. Will try again tomorrow. Any ideas?
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Old October 25, 2017, 08:55 PM   #2
4V50 Gary
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Put a piece of rubber or a lead dry firing ball on the nipple. Remove the lock and cock the hammer. Holding the lock in your hand, push up on the sear arm. See if the hammer drops.

If the hammer drops, the lock works. It could be the sideplate screws (screws that secure the lock to the stock) are too tight and interferring with the lock's operation. It could be there is too much wood in the stock (expanded because of climate) and that interfers with the lock's operation.
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Old October 26, 2017, 11:15 AM   #3
dirtman45
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Jb lock

The lock functions as it should without setting the set trigger. Just much stiffer. Dropping out the trigger assembly there is a small piece in the center of the trigger itself that moves up and down. It normally seems to move freely up and down and appears that it should perhaps lock in the upright position. I can safely dry fire over and over using the set trigger or not and it functions every time.fire it and it goes into failure on the next round or so. Im thinking that little moveable piece is not working correctly. But i have no idea if its supposed to lock upright when the trigger is set or how it works. When i have the assembly in my hand it some times will stick in that upright position.?
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Old October 26, 2017, 12:09 PM   #4
dirtman45
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JB BROWNING

Ok i dug out my manual, if all else fails, the little piece in my trigger assembly is called a " trigger strut". I need to get a small pin punch to remove the trigger plate from the gard and remove the strut from the trigger. Not that i will know what i am looking at.
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Old October 28, 2017, 10:22 AM   #5
dirtman45
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JB BROWNING

Took the rifle to a local gun maker. James Malloy. Some of you may know him. I had correctly diagnosed the problem with the trigger strut. He took it apart and polished the tip where it was hanging up on the trigger. So today i will fire away to be sure all is working as it should. The hour that was spent with him was time well spent. Picked up a wealth of information.
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Old October 28, 2017, 09:10 PM   #6
4V50 Gary
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Old September 28, 2018, 08:02 PM   #7
dirtman45
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JB Browning

It's been some time since I was online to give an update on this. There was some extra wood in the area of the mechanism and that was removed to give adequate clearance. The trigger strut was polished as mentioned. The rifle worked a time or two and then would not fire. The strut is supposed to fly up and strike the hammer assembly. I did discover that the strut was magnetized. So my theory is that when the rifle is p,a red muzzle up that the strut will attach itself to the part that it is supposed to fly up and strike. I can load cap after cap, or drop it on a faucet washer and it will fire every time. But then put it muzzle up and load it and it will fail after a shot or two.My next step will be to put a little sticky grease on it in hopes it will not move on it's own. Should that fail perhaps try making a strut out of a piece of stainless.
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Old September 30, 2018, 04:38 AM   #8
Old Stony
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I personally would be looking at interference from contact between parts and the wood. If the trigger assembly is sitting in the wood too high it can make a difference, and if the lock is sitting too deep into the recess it can affect the whole operation. If you would try just loosening the screws on the trigger plate and trying it that way or loosening the screws and try it with the lock partially set out from the wood. This is just for diagnostic purposes and if either helps, then adjustments can be made using things like bedding compound.
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