Taper crimp on revolver loads

[Don P]

I am going to be using bullets without a crimp grove. Does/has anyone had issues using these types of bullets using a taper crimp?

[k4swb]

Taper Crimp on Revolver loads
I am going to be using bullets without a crimp grove. Does/has anyone had issues using these types of bullets using a taper crimp?

I taper crimp all my loads, including .44 mag whether they have a groove or not. Never had a problem.

[Nick_C_S]

If they don't have a crimp groove (or cannelure), a taper crimp is the preferred method - especially if they're plated bullets.

[myfriendis410]

Taper crimping is far superior IMO to roll crimping. Not only is brass life increased but reduces the necessity for brass trimming. It works exceptionally well even in hard kicking magnums.

[mnoirot64]

Use a strong taper crimp. Obviously you do not want to damage the bullet, so slowly add the taper until you can see it clearly. It's obviously not good to damage the bullet, so if you notice it biting too far into the jacket, back it off a bit.

[SL1]

I usually use a taper crimp for target loads in revolvers. It seems to improve accuracy so long as I don't make it very tight. But, for full-power loads in magnum revovers, I always use roll crimps.

Perhaps depending on what power level others consider "full" and how heavy their revolvers are, they can get away with "strong" taper crimps on "full"-power loads. But, I only use full-power loads for situations where I can't afford to have the cylinder unexpectedly tie-up my gun.

Case tension on the bullet is at least as important as the crimp in keeping bullets inplace during recoil in revolvers (and feed ramp impact in auto-loaders), so results can vary tremendously between cases from different manufacturers when used to make ammo with the same load recipe made with the same set-up of the same dies when used in the same gun.

If you are using thin-plated bullets, then you are probably going to be able to find a case tension + taper crimp combination that will work for you up to the maximum power that it is wise to push those bullets. But if you are using thick-plated, hard cored bullets like the Speer Deep Curl or Federal Fusion types, then you might find that you can make your bullets jump crimp while still in the power range suitable for those bullets in some of the really heavy magnum revolver cartridges.

SL1

[buck460XVR]

Without a cannelure a taper crimp is about the only option you have. For those bullets without a cannelure, that are appropriate and meant for revolvers, that generally means plated. Plated bullets generally have velocity/pressure limits on them where taper crimps work fine to prevent bullet jump and to provide good burn with the powders used. But when it comes to legitimate magnum loads, using slow burning powders, there's a reason bullet manufacturers put a cannelure on their bullets and reloading manuals advise you to use a firm roll crimp.

[WESHOOT2]

I load or have loaded numerous plated bullets of various weights through a number of different chamberings.
I, using Redding Profile Crimp Dies, allow it to add its gentle taper crimp, and finish with its roll right into the bullet's body.

So no. I roll

[Nick_C_S]

But, for full-power loads in magnum revovers, I always use roll crimps.

Yes, the big hot rounds with generous quantities of slow ball powder (and by "slow ball powder," I mean W296 ), you gotta have a robust roll crimp.

I still roll crimp my revolver JHP's but am quickly becoming a taper crimp kinda guy for just about everything else. It's a lot easier on the brass. You can usually seat and crimp in one operation (IMO). And it seems to produce just as consistent and accurate rounds.

90% of the revolver rounds I load are target DEWC's and SWC's (lead and plated). These bullet types have plenty of contact area with the case, so there's no need for a roll crimp.

[WESHOOT2]

Maybe; vary and test if ammo goals for accuracy and/or ballistic uniformity demand it.

I found even my modest plated bullet loads benefited from more crimp than I'd expected.

[Mike / Tx]

Like has been mentioned a LOT has to do with the particular type of bullet, (ie, cast, plated, jacketed), as well as what your intended loads will be like.

Most of the loads I use now are cast bullets with low level magnum charges. I use a LOT of AA-7 and 9 for velocities in the 1100 - 1300fps range. For these particular loads I always use a nice roll crimp. Not too much and not too little. The cast bullet will be slicker simply due the the lubricity of lead plus the lube on it as well. Now add a copper plated jacket and you will get more tension from the case against the copper. Throw in a full jacketed round using a copper alloy jacket and a touch more tension yet.

In my higher octane 45 ACP rounds as well as my 10mm rounds I use only a taper crimp and get great function and no bullet movement.

Just play with it and increase as need as has been suggested.

[Don P]

Thanks for all the info. I asked because I 'm going to use Bayou Bullets. The 160 grain have no crimp grove and calling Lee Precision was a waste of time. All I wanted to know from Lee is, there catalogs state the newer dies will taper-roll crimp if adjusted properly. Guy stated ALL revolver ammo HAS to be ROLL CRIMPED. Guess he doesn't reload much