Barrel Removal Tricks

[turkeestalker]

Picked up a Star model 110 last weekend at a local gun show after looking for one for quite a long while.

Rifle is in pretty good shape overall, except for the fact that a previous owner had lopped over four inches off of the barrel.
They did a fine job of re-crowning it and I'm sure that the rifle is quite accurate as the seller claimed.
But it is not original and I'd like it to be.

Numrich had the barrel and all of the small parts to replace the front and rear sight assemblies less a couple of probably 6-40 screws to attach them, which showed up in the mail yesterday.

There are zero resources out there for instructions, only the exploded view like the one seen on Numrich. I have attempted asking on a few other forums without any responses.

I have successfully muddled through disassembling everything down to the steel receiver still attached to the barrel via a press fit.
Being that the receiver is steel, the classic tricks of heat and cold don't seem as effective as they would be if the receiver were an alloy.
I am afraid that the force needed to separate the barrel from the receiver may do some damage if I'm not careful.

Any helpful insight as to how to tackle this before I booger things up would be much appreciated.

[T. O'Heir]

I'd be taking a very wild guess and say it's probably rusted in. The barrel on my Cooey M64(identical to the Savage M64. The Star looks a lot like it too.) is installed the same way. Last time I took mine off for no apparent reason it just came out with no tools. Isn't what would be considered a press fit.
Got a barrel vise? If not a regular 4" vise with a leather pad and a padded crescent wrenchmight work. Think I'd put some penetrating oil on it for a day or 2 first.
"...heat and cold..." Works better on steel.

[turkeestalker]

Heat and cold probably will work better on steel for assembling the receiver and new barrel back together, didn't seem to do so well when trying to remove the old barrel.

Making a wood jig to securely support the action along with the correct size punch and one sharp blow from a 4lb hammer did. Hoping I didn't do any damage, doesn't seem so but I guess I'll see.

None the less, barrel removed and thank you for your input.

[T. O'Heir]

Nothing like a 4 pound hammer for firearms repair. We used to tease the CF weapons techs saying they thought if it didn't work the first time they'd get a bigger hammer.
Heat is kind of difficult to get even on a round part. However, steel will expand a bit with heat. Al/alloys do not.

[turkeestalker]

Fired about 50 rounds through it yesterday afternoon at the range without any issues, so I guess it worked out.
For a rim fire rifle, these really are well built adult size plinkers.
A couple of the steel parts that Numrich had for the rear sight are in the white intentionally, including the aluminum blade itself which will have to be painted.
They need to be assembled, the elevation adjustment shaft cut off, and then blued.
The front sight ramp that they listed is a generic and not the correct one for the rifle, so for now I'm leaving the scope on that it came with and continuing to search.
It's been a good experience so far, and should I never come across an unmolested example out of the 510 that came to the states, I'll have this one.