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March 27, 2009, 09:01 AM | #1251 |
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Location: No. Arizona
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Any help on a 357 Magnum, S1569xx? There is NO model number on the box or revolver....it's just listed as "357 Magnum". Thanks~~
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March 27, 2009, 03:25 PM | #1252 |
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Jim,
Thanks so much for the information! It certainly seems to fit with what Dad thought and the appearance. It may be old, but it's still sweet. It feels really good in your hand and still fires like a dream. Erika |
March 27, 2009, 06:56 PM | #1253 |
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Join Date: March 27, 2009
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Model 66-2 AHP4037
Any idea on approx prod year? Thanks, |
March 27, 2009, 10:11 PM | #1254 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Jim |
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March 28, 2009, 05:21 AM | #1255 |
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Join Date: March 27, 2009
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Jim,
Thanks for the info on my 66, much appreciated. |
March 29, 2009, 08:38 AM | #1256 |
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Join Date: March 13, 2009
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I have a SW 686 (no dash) serial number AHD XXX.
If anyone is able to contribute on the year.. it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks~ |
March 29, 2009, 03:05 PM | #1257 |
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Can anyone help.
I have just received a S&W .38. Chrome and pearl handle. Serial number 201230. Looking for age and maybe a value. A family friend want to purchase it. I am a complete novice. Thank you Last edited by Glenn E. Meyer; November 30, 2013 at 11:47 AM. |
March 29, 2009, 04:46 PM | #1258 |
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Join Date: March 29, 2009
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I have a S&W model 34 and the only thing resembling a serial number is 53625.
Thanks in advance, Brawndo |
March 29, 2009, 05:02 PM | #1259 |
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Join Date: July 13, 2001
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A Just Cause: Serial number prefix AHA was used in January 1985, prefix AHS was used in July 1985, assuming your gun was not marked out of sequence (this did occur at times, for example AHC1687 was used in January 1986) then early 1985 seems correct.
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March 29, 2009, 05:05 PM | #1260 |
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Brawndo: The serial number should be stamped on the bottom of the grip frame. This may be covered by the grips. If the number is stamped on the crane then it is probably an assembly number for keeping track of fitted parts as they move across the factory.
Assuming that it is the serial number, then your gun dates to 1959, when the serial number range was 52673 to 62316. |
March 29, 2009, 05:10 PM | #1261 |
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Let me take the grips off and see if I find anything different.
Thanks, |
March 29, 2009, 05:14 PM | #1262 |
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ajbpsu: You have a .38 Safety Hammerless 4th Model, dating from between 1898 & 1907. Serial number range was 116003 to roughly 220000.
According to the Standard Catalog of S&W this gun in excellent to excellent+ condition was worth $400-$500 in 2006. I suggest you look on www.gunbroker.com , www.auctionarms.com , www.armsbid.com and www.gunsamerica.com to get a feel for current pricing. |
March 29, 2009, 05:14 PM | #1263 |
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ok, try this... M68746
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March 29, 2009, 06:12 PM | #1264 |
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Brawndo: That makes it 1973 t0 1977, serial number range for that period was M60001 to M99999.
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March 29, 2009, 06:27 PM | #1265 |
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thanks. any idea if S&W will pinpoint like ruger will?
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March 29, 2009, 06:39 PM | #1266 |
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The proof is in the shooting. The 617 I have shot will certainly give tight groups, I've never fired a model 34. Give it a try and see.
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March 31, 2009, 12:51 AM | #1267 |
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Model 60 R188XXX
Inherited it. |
March 31, 2009, 05:18 AM | #1268 |
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Join Date: August 26, 2004
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SN Search
Just found K-22, brought it home, couldn't resist, it was nice and an impulse buy that I will not regret.
SN is K 180xxx I was told it has a custom spring, it is smooth and maybe 2-3 lb. pull If this turns out to be an older gun (I am taking wild guess it's 80's vintage) where would I locate the original spring part number to make it original again? Sure appreciate the service your providing, wish I could wait to get the book, but am goin crazy not knowing the mfg. era. ALSO, will the S&W Catalog book give me details on the "K" as far as the series, 5 screws, .22 & 38 cal etc. and will it give the spring part number as well??? I was told by the owner that I could dry fire this K -22 rimfire. I did dryfire at time of purchase, but found S&W suggestion that rimfire's not be dryfired...any info on this? I have since placed empty brass in cyl to dryfire, is this ok to do? Just love this gun, can't wait to shoot it. One last Q, is this book a refrence with charts, photos etc, or is it more a historical novel with some refrence data? thanks many bunches for any help provided!
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March 31, 2009, 06:43 PM | #1269 |
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Victory Model, 5" 5-screw, serial #955844. Other markings include FTR MA55 on right side, with a proof mark that resembles an upward-pointing arrow.
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March 31, 2009, 07:18 PM | #1270 |
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jgunter217: Your model 60 was made between 1974 & 1977. Serial number range for that period was R100000to R190000.
Dead-Nuts-Zero: Your K22 dates to 1953, serial number range for that year was K175638 to K210095. The Standard catalog of S&W shows pictures of all major models, often with pictures of major engineering changes. There is short history and description of each model, a list of engineering changes by date, a list of special production runs and basic valuing information. There are separate chapters on valuing, grips, serial number ranges, factory tools, factory boxes, advertising, manuals and factory other stuff. Pretty much ever answer given in this thread and the equivalent thread at www.thehighroad.org is from the SCSW. Tom Servo: Is the number 955844 taken from the bottom of the grip? If so then your gun is a post war production, probably around 1947 (serial number S990184 was used in 1948, S811120 in 1945.) The actual victory model run ended at SV811832. The Arrow is a British or Commonwealth acceptance mark, which suggests it is a wartime gun, FTR means Factory Thorough Repair: It was re-arsenaled in 1955 at a Commonwealth service center, the MA prefix refers to the center, but I can't tell you which one it is. The Commonwealth guns were usually in .38 S&W, not .38 special. The barrel should be marked .38 S&W CTG if this is a Commonwealth gun. After the war many were re-imported into the USA as surplus and the cylinders bored through to allow .38 special to chamber. These should only be fired with standard pressure loads as the chamber will be oversize for the case at the extractor end - .38 S&W used a wider case than the .38 special. |
March 31, 2009, 08:14 PM | #1271 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I know my Smiths fairly well, but this one's an oddity.
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March 31, 2009, 10:16 PM | #1272 |
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K-22
Radagast
That was really nice of you to look this up for me. The piece has a custom grip that covers the screws, but was told it was a 5 screw so I knew it had some age on it. Don't know when the last of the 5 screws were produced. It has pined barrel and recess cylinder, I expect they still make the recessed cylinders yet today in a .22 cal. I bought it from individual and was in poor lighting area, I could see it was in very good condition, but today looking at it in natural sunlight, it is in better condition than expected for a used gun. Now with knowing it's vintage (early 50's), is a bonus to me. Has no holster wear, not a speck of rust or even a slight ding anywhere, and no touchups that I can find. Bore was bright with crisp cut rifling. I got to shoot it today, found some odd things. Maybe someone can help me out here??? First, I was shooting at steel about 25-30 yds, didn't have any paper to see where it shoots or how tight the shots, but it was impossible to make a strike without blotching out the steel chicken at that distance. Went to adjust rear sight, there was no elevation play in the rear sight bar (like most of my guns) with no spring and click detents for elevation adjustment. Windage w/adjustment screw looks good. Is this normal for this type of rear sight? This is my only adjustable Smith, all others have fixed sights so can't compare them. Rear sight bar appears to be made without a spring(?) Will this sight base flex if I were to turn the screw up or down? Looked to be all the way down so maybe can't do much to improve it. Other thing I noticed, it was very difficult to eject the empty brass. Only because brass were very tight, no other problems within the ejecting system I can see. Works normal while empty. Used 3 brands of ammo in it, all ejected hard. Seemed like just the rims were over swelled. Could it be due to the recess cylinder and because it's like new condition with little breakin maybe??? And lastly, I purchased it with custom rubber wrap-around thin target grips installed (grips do not cause the ejecting problem), have original woods that are like new. No original box, tools or manual came with it. Did get B-Sq. clamp-on mount (replaces rear sight) and a very old looking red dot. I need to request a manual from Smith. I dropped 400 big ones for it with the grips, mount and red-dot Curious of it's aprox. value. Probably worth 20% more today than a year ago with the Polosi Effect (she is the one really in charge ya know). :barf::barf::barf: Whatever it's value, I am very pleased so far, that’s what really matters to me. Its much better quality than I expected. I looked at auction sights prior to trip to see this one, they seem to be 400 plus but shown in many different variants. Do you think that 400 is within the ballpark for this piece? I will try to get a book ordered soon so I won't keep beggin for info...it's just the excitement of finding an older piece in such great shape and that makes me very happy indeed! Any comments from you Radagast, or anyone else is encouraged....thanks again for the original info you sent.
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April 1, 2009, 07:29 AM | #1273 |
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Tom Servo: I guess I had a senior moment then. Serial number 955844 places it at the end of the .38 Military & Police model of 1905 4th change run in 1941 or 1942. Serial numbers in the 760000 range were shipped in 1941 and the serial number range ended at 1000000 in 1942. The .38/200 British Service Revolver was made in the same serial number range in .38 S&W, both guns were followed by the Victory model starting at V1.
A half remembered memory says MA is an Australian code, and a quick google finds FTR MA55 on Australian surplus victory model revolvers. The parkerising would have happened when the gun was FTRed. A lot of American forces staged through Australia during the Pacific theater of WWII, It's quite possible this one was left behind or lend leased and ended up in the hands of the Australian army. As an Australian I feel honor bound to protect my countries martial heritage. Please package your revolver up and send it to me for conservation. I promise to let you know how it shoots. :P |
April 1, 2009, 08:40 AM | #1274 |
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Dead-Nuts-Zero:
The upper side plate screw was deleted in 1955, the screw in the trigger guard was deleted in 1961 with the 17-2. My fathers 2003 manufactured model 617 has a recessed cylinder, so yes they are still available with recessed cylinders. I'm not an expert, just a guy with a book, so take the following with a grain of salt. The adjustable rear sight on the 617 lacks a spring but there is a definite click as the rear screw is rotated to allow for elevation. It appears to rely on the sight bars position on the the thread of the screw to hold it steady, there is a square block on the end of the screw that engages with the frame so it doesn't move up and down when pressed on. I'm assuming the 1950's era sights worked on the same principle. It's possible there is some irregularity in the chambers that polishing may help, I suggest you start a new thread in either the revolver or gunsmithing forums. One of the more knowledgeable members may be able to advise you. Don't mess with the gun without expert advise though. According to the Standard Catalog of S&W, in 2006 a Postwar K22 Masterpiece, 3rd model in excellent condition was worth $600 in 2006. As you mentioned, prices have gone up on collectible Smiths since then. Of course, with the world economy tanking this may change. For the moment, for paying $400 for a near new K22, you are officially a pirate. |
April 1, 2009, 09:04 AM | #1275 |
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Tom Servo: MA is the code for the Lithgow Small Arms Factory, New South Wales Australia.
http://www.enfieldcollector.com/markings.html |
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