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Old February 4, 2007, 11:43 AM   #51
Shane Tuttle
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Location: Montana
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I do know what you mean by the tung oil. I used Formby's on my father-in-law's old Springfield 87A on his walnut stock. Beautiful finish.

But, this Pour-On leaves a thick bar top like finish. A coulple of guys at my work used it on their butcher block tops on their toolboxes and swear by it. I questioned these items:
1. Chemical intolerance. We use a lot of chemicals and the finish resists all except long term exposure to MEK. Even then, it softens the finish temporarily then rehardens. (Weird)
2. Repairs to damage. They have chipped the finish with occasional abuse. They scuff and reapply a small amount. When it dries, you can't tell where the repair was.

That's what sold me. I was hoping someone has used it on their gun bench to provide experience with it around the type of chemicals used around guns, etc.
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Old April 15, 2007, 10:14 PM   #52
Shane Tuttle
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Well,

This weekend I just about finished up my station. I stayed with the lazy susan, a 15in. cabinet on the left, and a 12in. cabinet on the right. Made a 5x4 ft. 'L' shape counter top out of 3/4in. plywood. Then cut 3/4in. end jointed solid knotty pine in the same shape. Used some 1/14in. strips of that to make the backsplash. Coated all of it with Pour-On.

Peter,

You would be proud. I went to Cabela's a couple of weeks ago and picked up the RockChucker Supreme press kit and mounted that to the bench. Hopefully this week I'll get some pics on here.

Thanks for everybody's advice. The mounting practices came in handy.
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Old August 12, 2009, 06:03 PM   #53
gtullar
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Lots of great looking reloading benches here. I'm in the garage, alittle warm in the summer (AZ) but it doesn't last too long and then the weather in the garage is ideal. Here's my little slice of heaven. Enjoy!
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Old August 12, 2009, 07:48 PM   #54
flashhole
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If you go the "counter top" route I would recommend white. It really helps to reflect a lot of light when at the bench working and makes long sessions easier.
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Old August 12, 2009, 08:03 PM   #55
oneounceload
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One of my more memorable bench tops was stock kitchen formica from Lowe's or Home Depot in a 8' length. It had 3/4" 7-ply plywood glued and screwed to it underneath which was then mounted on 8' of gorilla rack set up in side by side configuration. The backsplash was then lag bolted to wall studs so there was NO movement or flex. I'm over 6'2 and 250 and I could stand on the edge of the counter top with no issues. The heavy-duty racking system allowed me to store over a ton of lead shot and my wads and boxes of bullets on the bottom. I used pegboard going up with shelves to hold dies, balance scale, etc.........

When I moved, it stayed with the house
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Old August 12, 2009, 11:06 PM   #56
jack404
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some laminated panel

some 4x2 timber and



some 120mm and 75mm screws and glue hold it together
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Old August 12, 2009, 11:17 PM   #57
Kyo
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My dad is a jeweler. he has a few benches set up in the garage. both old. when I got my press he asked which one to use. Well, we used the one to the wall. It is one of those benches where the top is covered by a quarter circle wooden pull down. I will have to take a pic next time I go over there.
The pull down don't work anymore because the press is too big and we drilled 3 holes to put it in. Lots of jeweler crap around it, I need to clean it up, but better then nothing. Lots of lights! Which is good, because I need them. Cozy spot to reload
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Old August 13, 2009, 06:55 AM   #58
mongoose33
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Here's a method for creating a rock-solid base to a bench. My late F-I-L taught me this, and it's an excellent way to level and solidify a bench on an uneven (or even an even) surface. The double 2x4 legs make it very strong, and the other 2x4s lend even more strength:




You can see in this photo how the 2x4 legs are attached to the top (and BTW, a solid-core door makes a terrific work surface):


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