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May 16, 2013, 05:27 PM | #51 |
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Join Date: February 25, 2013
Location: Keystone Heights, Florida
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It may not be a CCW. It's rather large size and I am very small and tend to wear clothing that fits my body. We'll see where my comfort level is when I turn 21 but I see myself carrying something a little bit smaller. I've got some ideas like a Sig 938 or a PPK among others but that's for another thread about 3 years from now
It will be a range gun and will most likely ride in my car with me since you can carry a handgun in your car at 18 in Florida. It could also be used for home defense if necessary. |
May 16, 2013, 09:40 PM | #52 |
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I have a 75B and it's a keeper. It's a great shooter.
I also have a P07 Duty with a threaded barrel. I guess there's a bad one of anything out there but the P07 Duty is an excellent shooter for me and has a better trigger IMO than the 75B. I just put a TiRant9 silencer on it last weekend and enjoy it even more. |
May 16, 2013, 10:25 PM | #53 | |
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Quote:
If I were you I would take my time and look at lots of guns and get some training. I'm glad you've made the decision to arm yourself...good luck. |
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May 16, 2013, 11:07 PM | #54 |
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Just do a little workout to strengthen your hands, that will help a lot.
Practice is important too, but practice proper techniques. Try several recommended methods and see which one works best for you. The CZ has a little stiffness and a stout recoil spring, but it is not the worst by far. It really just comes down to getting confidence and familiarity with handling and manipulation. Remember that the pistol has a special finish that does not need oil to prevent rust, so make sure to keep the outside clean, this can help with getting a grip on the slide. Take the time to think through what you are doing, look at yourself and your build, and figure out what works for you. |
May 16, 2013, 11:44 PM | #55 |
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Hey guys,
Could've sworn I made this update which might have answered post number 52. I looked at my technique and changed it a little bit. Instead of squeezing the slide with my thumb and forefinger and using that finger on the sights, I'm now doing a crab claw type grip with the 4 fingers and my palm. Doing that in a punching motion, and if I pay attention to my technique, I can easily rack the slide now from even uncocked position on an empty magazine. I'm not sure why, but the empty magazine makes the slide and slide release harder. Anyways, I can do it every time now and send the snap caps flinging about the room. Some of them have landed a good 10 feet away. Any time I can't do it, I look down and find my technique has slipped and as soon as I do it I'm good to go. It definitely was a workout for me to learn this thing and other guns wouldn't have required me to be so perfect but I've got it now. It is very satisfying hearing the loud rack and watching the snap cap eject. Thanks for all the help. I put in about 6 hours of practice between the past 3 days and I think that's what did it. |
May 17, 2013, 12:28 AM | #56 |
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I applaud you for sticking with the gun and actually familiarizing yourself with it and training to improve your handling of the weapon. You are owner of one of top service weapon and I think with enough time you'll start appreciate some of the features of the gun you don't even see now, not speaking of the comfort you should find in the fact that you have spent good time training with the gun and overcoming the obstacles which will give you better proficiency when using the weapon under stress.
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May 17, 2013, 12:37 AM | #57 | |
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Quote:
When the magazine is empty, the magazine follower bears upward against the slide release. That is the mechanism by which the gun locks the slide open after the last round is fired. With any rounds in the magazine, the follower is too far below the slide release to contact it and therefore it applies no upward pressure on the slide release.
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May 17, 2013, 09:28 PM | #58 |
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Thought I'd post a poor picture of my CZ 9s. I have several other pistols/revolvers but these are my favorites. The omega trigger in the P07 has a very good feel to me. That's a TiRant 9. CZ Custom shortened the barrel a little over a tenth and cut the crown. Otherwise there would be threads showing. The taller sights just clear the tube. Every 10 shots or so you have to snug it up. I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to keep it tight more of the time and keep it lined up straight with the barrel.
[IMG][/IMG] |
May 18, 2013, 12:51 AM | #59 |
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I get to take it out to the range tomorrow for the first time! I've got 450 rounds of ammo too, all bought since last week. My dad bought 100 federal rounds for $60 () and then we went to Gander and found a 350 box of Blazer brass for $120 so of course we had to get that
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May 18, 2013, 04:57 AM | #60 |
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Dakota Potts, You might want to sign up here: http://gunbot.net/ammo/9mm/
and here: http://www.midwayusa.com/find?sortby...ensionid=15422 to get notification of 9mm ammunition at more reasonable prices than what you've paid for those 450 rounds which you already have. |
May 18, 2013, 05:28 AM | #61 |
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If you will pull the hammer back before you rack the slide, I believe you will be amazed at how much easier it is to rack the slide.
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May 18, 2013, 05:47 AM | #62 |
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^^^^^This.
Yes, CZ-75's have heavy hammer springs. If you cock the hammer prior to racking the slide it is MUCH easier.
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May 18, 2013, 06:31 AM | #63 | |
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May 18, 2013, 09:00 AM | #64 | ||
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To those who keep advising the OP to cock the hammer first, he said back in post 1 that he had already used that technique, but was still having trouble with the recoil spring.
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May 18, 2013, 09:02 PM | #65 |
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Man does this thing shoot sweet! The trigger is awesome and there is almost no felt recoil! I shot about 200 rounds today. The gun is way more accurate than I am. The bullets weren't always going when I was pointing at first. Then the trigger surprised me and the bullet went exactly where I was aiming. After loading my magazine with snap caps I found it was because I was anticipating the trigger break and pulling harder to compensate. So, a problem created, found, and worked on in a day makes me happy.
Also, at one point, I took two magazines of 7 rounds each and did a gratuitous mag dump/reload at 10 yards. All hit center mass at that range which I consider somewhat defensive range. Not great, but a workable starting point. From there I shot at 1 inch targets (slow fire the rest of the trip) between 10 and 15 yards. Once I got into the groove I grouped 6 or 7 into an inch and a half or so with a weird outlier where I flinched once. Overall, the recoil is lower and less snappier even than my mom's .380. The grip is nice and the trigger pull is easy (at least the single action). I am very satisfied. It is way more accurate than I am and will last me a very long time. |
May 18, 2013, 09:03 PM | #66 |
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MLeake, thank you for that post. I'm doing an overhand punch with my whole hand and I've got every bit of the action down.
Taking it apart, however, was a pain and the pin was pretty hard to get in and out. I gave it a full cleaning. The manual suggests cleaning after every shoot. Is this necessary for CZs? I do live in a tropical/sub-tropical climate. |
May 18, 2013, 09:18 PM | #67 |
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It is not critical that you clean after every range trip, although that is the most common recommendation from manufacturers. I usually clean after a range trip but will sometimes skip the cleaning if ALL of the following are true:
1. The gun was clean before the range trip. AND 2. Only a box or two was expanded during the range trip. AND 3. Another relatively light round-count range trip is coming up in the near future for that gun. AND 4. I am familiar with the gun and don't feel the need to take it down to check it out. So a new gun would likely be cleaned and checked before its first range trip and after it gets home from its range trip even if the round-count was light. A gun that was having some sort of issue/malfunction, would also get a teardown and cleaning/checkout after even a very light round-count range trip. That said, it is important to wipe down any part of the gun (and any other metal surfaces such as magazines) after everytime you handle it or shoot it before you put it away. The firing residue from modern, non-corrosive ammunition is relatively benign, but the salts that are often found on the skin can be pretty hard on gun finishes. The idea with a wipedown is to leave the metal surfaces of the gun free of fingerprint residue and with a very, very light coating of oil for protection.
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May 18, 2013, 09:41 PM | #68 |
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I usually tap the slide stop loose using a corner of a magazine base plate. Works pretty well. Keeping the reference marks aligned can be a challenge. If the stop doesn't come loose on the first tap, you might want to check that the slide didn't shift in your grasp.
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May 18, 2013, 09:52 PM | #69 |
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I carefully line up the takedown marks, then whack the right end of the slide stop with a nylon faced mallet. Then pluck it out of the left side.
I do not depress the slide stop with my right thumb. Too long a reach. I hit it with my LEFT thumb as I am moving back to a firing grip after the reload. This is a common technique in IDPA which is my main game. |
May 18, 2013, 10:17 PM | #70 |
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To line up the takedown marks for disassembly...
I wrap my pointer finger around the rear sight, and my thumb around the tang/backstrap area and use that to hold the slide back. Having the hammer at half cock makes this easier, as the slide will hit the hammer when it is at half cock at the same point as the takedown marks. And the left thumb and slingshot method for releasing the slide is a good alternative if you have issues using the slide release. |
May 18, 2013, 10:20 PM | #71 |
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Locking the slide in the right place isn't my problem. My dad taught me his old 1911 take down technique which is to loop the left hand into the trigger guard and hold the slide with my left hand. The problem is knocking the slide release lever in or out of place.
Funny enough, I also hit the slide release on a new mag with my left hand. It's just easier in the grip. |
May 18, 2013, 11:27 PM | #72 |
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Here's what works for me to disassemble the CZ75.
I hold the unloaded gun in my right hand with the slide "pinched" and held in position (disassembly marks aligned) with my right hand. The fingers of the right hand are over the top of the slide with the thumb around the backstrap. Then squeeze until the marks are lined up. Next I place the front of the triggerguard against the web of my left hand and put the thumb side of the top joint of my left index finger against the slide stop "button" on the right side of the pistol and my left thumb on the left side of the pistol and squeeze the thumb and finger together. The part of my left index finger contacting the slide stop "button" is the side of the last finger joint--basically the bone on the side of the topmost knuckle. That means there isn't much give and it's possible to put enough pressure on it to pop it out. I wouldn't want to do it all day long, because eventually that knuckle will get pretty sore. But then I've never been in a situation where I needed to field strip CZ-75 pistols all day long!
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May 18, 2013, 11:33 PM | #73 | ||
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May 19, 2013, 08:21 AM | #74 | |
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I've been sort of following this thread and am glad to hear that you got the problem solved.
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May 19, 2013, 09:59 AM | #75 |
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As others have mentioned, use the base of the magazine to push out the takedown pin.
Or a plastic capped mallet if you have one. Glad you are liking your CZ, I love both of mine. |
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