My first lever gun (1983 Winny 94) questions about screws/plugs

Centralclb · May 7, 2013, 10:23 PM

Hello. Bought my first lever gun (wanted a pre 83 336, but I couldn't pass on this one...not givin up on the 336 though).

It's a 1982 or 83 winchester 94 (not A/E but the serial # is 5113xxx). He bought it new, fired a box and half through it (he says) and put it away (evidently without oiling it) It's got some surface rust as you can see...can most of this be removed with steel wool or 1500 grit sandpaper? The barrel looks great though.

Secondly: I want to remove the side mount, what screws or plugs do I need to replace the holes? Also, on the right side of the receiver there appears to be another pin missing (above the loading gate) what pin is supposed to be there?

It's obviously far from great, but for $175 I'm not upset about it. The bore is solid and it cycles smoothly and locks up tight.

Can anyone out there offer some tips for mending the surface rust and finding the replacement plugs/screws?

Of course, pics:

(you can see the mottling commonly associated with some of these guns)

Scorch · May 8, 2013, 12:25 AM

Heck of a deal at $175! It needs some TLC, but looks like a winner. The rust freckles are there to stay, but you can reduce the appearance with 0000 steel wool and some oil. To remove the side mount, you need the lever link pin cover screw and a couple of plug screws for the rear. You can get the lever link cover screw at Numrich or Jack First, plug screws are available from just about any gunsmith supply house, so order them at the same time.

mxsailor803 · May 8, 2013, 02:59 AM

I'll give you 180 for it right now lol. Good find.

Hawg · May 8, 2013, 04:41 AM

As for the hole above the loading gate its as its supposed to be. Its an access hole to remove the tapered lever link pin from the bolt. If you don't plug the matching hole on the left side after you remove the mount you can kiss that pin bye bye.

PetahW · May 8, 2013, 06:47 AM

Welcome to our little corner of the internet !

That receiver's not blued as we know it, and if you try to remove the blemishes, you're going to end up needing a full aftermarket refinish, like Cerakote or somesuch.

I would just oil it & shoot/hunt the snot out of it.

Winchester didn't return to regular/blued receivers on the Model 94 until the 1983 introduction of the 94AE.

After the side mount's gone, the large hole is for the "lever Pin Stop Screw", also available from http://www.wisnersinc.com/rifles/winchester/94.html for $3.25 (Part #2994) + S&H; and as posted above, any gunsmith worthy of the name will usually have a scrounge box full of the small 6-48 headless filler screws for the asking or a few bucks - but I'd suggest you forget the two small screws & just mount a receiver peep sight there (like a Williams 5D or FP, or a Lyman).

If you mount a peep sight, please remove the rear barrel open sight for a clean sight picture - and either buy a slot filler blank or make one from an old longleaf rear sight's male dovetail section.

.

tango1niner · May 8, 2013, 06:55 AM

I would leave the defects in the finish as is. The receiver is made from "graphitic steel". It is basically a form of cast iron which is tin plated and then blued. If you remove the tin plate the gun will not take bluing. I had a friend who wanted me to hot salt blue his rifle. I polished it up nice, put it in the tank to cook. When I removed it and wiped it down the blue/black color wiped off. A call to Winchester yielded the above info. Ended up sending the stripped receiver back to Winchester who tin plated and then reblued. At that time their fee to blue the receiver was $25.

Enjoy your toy as is and look for the Marlin...

May 7, 2013, 10:23 PM	#1
Centralclb Junior Member Join Date: May 7, 2013 Posts: 1	My first lever gun (1983 Winny 94) questions about screws/plugs Hello. Bought my first lever gun (wanted a pre 83 336, but I couldn't pass on this one...not givin up on the 336 though). It's a 1982 or 83 winchester 94 (not A/E but the serial # is 5113xxx). He bought it new, fired a box and half through it (he says) and put it away (evidently without oiling it) It's got some surface rust as you can see...can most of this be removed with steel wool or 1500 grit sandpaper? The barrel looks great though. Secondly: I want to remove the side mount, what screws or plugs do I need to replace the holes? Also, on the right side of the receiver there appears to be another pin missing (above the loading gate) what pin is supposed to be there? It's obviously far from great, but for $175 I'm not upset about it. The bore is solid and it cycles smoothly and locks up tight. Can anyone out there offer some tips for mending the surface rust and finding the replacement plugs/screws? Of course, pics: (you can see the mottling commonly associated with some of these guns)

May 8, 2013, 06:47 AM	#5
PetahW Senior Member Join Date: September 19, 2008 Posts: 4,678	Welcome to our little corner of the internet ! That receiver's not blued as we know it, and if you try to remove the blemishes, you're going to end up needing a full aftermarket refinish, like Cerakote or somesuch. I would just oil it & shoot/hunt the snot out of it. Winchester didn't return to regular/blued receivers on the Model 94 until the 1983 introduction of the 94AE. After the side mount's gone, the large hole is for the "lever Pin Stop Screw", also available from http://www.wisnersinc.com/rifles/winchester/94.html for $3.25 (Part #2994) + S&H; and as posted above, any gunsmith worthy of the name will usually have a scrounge box full of the small 6-48 headless filler screws for the asking or a few bucks - but I'd suggest you forget the two small screws & just mount a receiver peep sight there (like a Williams 5D or FP, or a Lyman). If you mount a peep sight, please remove the rear barrel open sight for a clean sight picture - and either buy a slot filler blank or make one from an old longleaf rear sight's male dovetail section. . Last edited by PetahW; May 8, 2013 at 07:02 AM.

May 8, 2013, 12:25 AM	#2
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Heck of a deal at $175! It needs some TLC, but looks like a winner. The rust freckles are there to stay, but you can reduce the appearance with 0000 steel wool and some oil. To remove the side mount, you need the lever link pin cover screw and a couple of plug screws for the rear. You can get the lever link cover screw at Numrich or Jack First, plug screws are available from just about any gunsmith supply house, so order them at the same time. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

May 8, 2013, 02:59 AM	#3
mxsailor803 Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2010 Location: SC Posts: 1,344	I'll give you 180 for it right now lol. Good find.

May 8, 2013, 04:41 AM	#4
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	As for the hole above the loading gate its as its supposed to be. Its an access hole to remove the tapered lever link pin from the bolt. If you don't plug the matching hole on the left side after you remove the mount you can kiss that pin bye bye.

May 8, 2013, 06:55 AM	#6
tango1niner Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2009 Location: NY Posts: 317	I would leave the defects in the finish as is. The receiver is made from "graphitic steel". It is basically a form of cast iron which is tin plated and then blued. If you remove the tin plate the gun will not take bluing. I had a friend who wanted me to hot salt blue his rifle. I polished it up nice, put it in the tank to cook. When I removed it and wiped it down the blue/black color wiped off. A call to Winchester yielded the above info. Ended up sending the stripped receiver back to Winchester who tin plated and then reblued. At that time their fee to blue the receiver was $25. Enjoy your toy as is and look for the Marlin...