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Old July 3, 2018, 11:34 AM   #1
ibfestus
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M-1 Garand "dimples."

I just received a Service grade M-1 from the CMP but it has been over 10 years since I fiddled with a Garand. I field stripped and cleaned the rifle and hand cycled a clip through the gun (safety on of course). Everything seemed fine until I started reloading the clip and noticed every one of the rounds had a dimple in the primer.

Not much more than a mark but still a dimple. I can't remember that happening in the 'yonder years' when I owned Garands back in 2000-03. I was using the 150 gr., S&B ball ammo from the CMP and don't know what primers they use.

At the range, in 4 clips I had one stoppage, a failure to feed. The only other issues were the ejection pattern was more "up" than normal... with some empties actually hitting the 8' rafters for the roof covering the firing line.

In zeroing the rifle at 25 yards, with the rear site up 8 clicks, it was 4 1/2' low. I had to raise the sight another 14 clicks (22 total) to get to the bullseye. After that I put 8 rounds into a 6" bull at 100 yards. Not great shooting but I'm 73 and my eyes are not what they once were.

Comments please.
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Old July 3, 2018, 12:54 PM   #2
Dave P
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Dimpled primers are normal. That is why you should never let the bolt hit the primer at full speed - meaning: ride the bolt half way home, and then let it go, when you are shooting sigle rounds with no clip.
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Old July 3, 2018, 01:05 PM   #3
T. O'Heir
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You 'Red' on Jouster? Just curious. Same question has been discussed there since Sunday. Red went up 25 clicks. Waaay to many. Front sight needs changing. There are some other responses there too. CMP stocks apparently require fitting.
Mind you, the CMP will fix whatever needs fixing.
"...dimple in the primer..." Nothing to worry about. The M1 Rifle firing pin "floats".
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Old July 3, 2018, 02:44 PM   #4
brasscollector
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a 25 yard zero is too close IMO, stretch it out to at least 50 or preferably 100 yds.
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Old July 3, 2018, 04:53 PM   #5
MTT TL
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25 to get on paper then 100 yards to zero. .30-06 has a very different range and capability than 5.56.
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Old July 4, 2018, 12:34 AM   #6
bamaranger
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dimples

Dimples on primers on ammo that has been run into the chamber by the bolt of a Garand are common. Camming surfaces on the firing pin and bolt are intended to prevent detonation of a cartridge prior the action going into battery. CMP inspection or not, you are talking surfaces with years of wear in some instances, and shooting with improper lubrication may worsen the problem. Avoiding a slamfire is always a concern with the Garand. As noted, single loading ammo with the M1 is tricky business, the rifle is intended to function with the enbloc, which slows the bolt speed during its return cycle as it strips a fresh round headed for the chamber. There are some other things need mentioned here too:

-the M1 rifle is intended to fire milspec type ammo with hard primer skins. Sporting '06 ammo primer skins can be much softer and increase the likelihood of a slamfire. Not only do some sport loads have sensitive primers, but they may operate with pressures and pressure curves not intended for the Garand, causing issues with port pressure and can damage the op rod with prolonged use.

-dorking with the op rod spring, cutting coils or extra power springs, can aggrevate the slam fire likelihood

-if one intends to reload for the M1 rifle, do your homework. Loading for the Garand is not as simple as loading for a bolt rifle. Primer selection (mil spec), primer pocket uniformity and headspace are critical in the matter of safe ammo for the M1 to avoid a slamfire.
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Old July 5, 2018, 01:07 AM   #7
Steve in PA
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The dimple is from the free floating firing pin. Rounds chambered in an AR rifle will show the same exact marking.

You can use milspec primiers, but I've been shooting and reloading for my M1 for years using regular CCI 200 primers. Just ensure that the primer pocket is cleaned and uniform. As long as the primers do not sit "high" there will be no worries. Same method I use for shooting reloads in my AR rifles.

Sighting in at 25 yard is way too close. Like others said, 50 to get on paper than 100 yards to
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Old July 13, 2018, 10:02 PM   #8
jrothWA
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Check the firing pin, to see if the angled surfaces on the tang of the FP, to see if all sharply defined, if not then replace with a new one.

Make sure the "lower bridge" under the receiver is lubricated, as that rear face guides the FP tang, during the action cycling.

Good luck.
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Old July 14, 2018, 05:59 AM   #9
jcj54
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Front sight is too tall

If you remove .080 from the top of the front sight, it should be on at 100 yards with the normal 12 clicks up.
If you don't want to cut the sight you have, buy a spare and modify it.
And the dimpled primers are the norm in an M1.
As to ejection pattern, sounds like your ejector is the problem. Either a weak ejector spring or gummed up.
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Old July 14, 2018, 06:44 AM   #10
agtman
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Quote:
If you remove .080 from the top of the front sight, it should be on at 100 yards with the normal 12 clicks up. If you don't want to cut the sight you have, buy a spare and modify it.
I agree that needing 25 clicks elevation to get zeroed at 100-yds isn't "normal" for an M1. I had one like that and my 'smith shortened the front sight about as you describe, and afterward it only needed about 10 clicks to be "on" at 100-yds.

Quote:
As to ejection pattern, sounds like your ejector is the problem. Either a weak ejector spring or gummed up.
You can still get "M1 bolt kits" that contain NOS USGI extractors, ejectors, and spring detents, along with NOS firing pins. Also installing a new op rod spring from Orion 7 can only help with proper cycling.
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