38 spl.+p brass

D Thomson · April 24, 2011, 10:43 AM

I'm getting back into handloading after a many years absence. I came across some 38 spl. brass and alot of it is head stamped as +p. This +p appears to be heavier made [ mostly wincester brass], Question, is the +p brass accually stronger made or are the weight and diamension differences just a manufacturing fluxuation? Also, are the unmarked cases strong enough for +p charges? Thanks for assistance.

bossman · April 24, 2011, 07:32 PM

No difference,
shoot them either way.

The +p is used to let the shooter know they are hotter for factory new, once shot they become the same as standard brass.

Sevens · April 24, 2011, 10:05 PM

Starline will tell you that their .45 Auto +P brass is built stronger (and thus smaller capacity) than their normal brass, but at the same time -- Starline will tell you that their .38 Special and 9mm +P or +P+ brass is exactly the same but with a different mark on the headstamp.

Starline is probably the premier producer of handgun brass, and also produces brass for some of the factory ammo companies.

I load my share of .38 Special and I have both regular and +P mixed together at will. I do separate head stamps, but not to the detail of +P or not.

You should notice absolutely no difference with it.

Clark · April 25, 2011, 11:29 AM

38 special brass is good for ~ 90kpsi before the case head starts to flow.
357 mag brass with much thicker web is good for ~90kpsi

At ~45kpsi the brass will stick in the chamber and be to hard get out with a star extractor of a swing open revolver. They may have to be individually pounded out with a wooden stick and a hammer.

At ~40kpsi the brass will stick if the chamber walls are made of thin steel, like in K frame revolvers.

Hot loads with fast powder in a 38 special can split the chamber, blow pieces of the cylinder to the sides, and break the top strap. I have done that with (3) 38 special revolvers. The brass gets split, but the case head is fine.

What does it all mean?
38 special brass strength is a moot point.

April 24, 2011, 10:43 AM	#1
D Thomson Member Join Date: June 6, 2010 Posts: 24	38 spl.+p brass I'm getting back into handloading after a many years absence. I came across some 38 spl. brass and alot of it is head stamped as +p. This +p appears to be heavier made [ mostly wincester brass], Question, is the +p brass accually stronger made or are the weight and diamension differences just a manufacturing fluxuation? Also, are the unmarked cases strong enough for +p charges? Thanks for assistance. Last edited by D Thomson; April 28, 2011 at 02:43 AM.

April 24, 2011, 07:32 PM	#2
bossman Senior Member Join Date: November 16, 2010 Location: Arkansas Posts: 996	No difference, shoot them either way. The +p is used to let the shooter know they are hotter for factory new, once shot they become the same as standard brass. __________________ NRA life member When the going gets tough, I just open another beer.

April 24, 2011, 10:05 PM	#3
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	Starline will tell you that their .45 Auto +P brass is built stronger (and thus smaller capacity) than their normal brass, but at the same time -- Starline will tell you that their .38 Special and 9mm +P or +P+ brass is exactly the same but with a different mark on the headstamp. Starline is probably the premier producer of handgun brass, and also produces brass for some of the factory ammo companies. I load my share of .38 Special and I have both regular and +P mixed together at will. I do separate head stamps, but not to the detail of +P or not. You should notice absolutely no difference with it. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

April 25, 2011, 11:29 AM	#4
Clark Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 1999 Location: WA, the ever blue state Posts: 4,678	38 special brass is good for ~ 90kpsi before the case head starts to flow. 357 mag brass with much thicker web is good for ~90kpsi At ~45kpsi the brass will stick in the chamber and be to hard get out with a star extractor of a swing open revolver. They may have to be individually pounded out with a wooden stick and a hammer. At ~40kpsi the brass will stick if the chamber walls are made of thin steel, like in K frame revolvers. Hot loads with fast powder in a 38 special can split the chamber, blow pieces of the cylinder to the sides, and break the top strap. I have done that with (3) 38 special revolvers. The brass gets split, but the case head is fine. What does it all mean? 38 special brass strength is a moot point. __________________ The word 'forum" does not mean "not criticizing books." "Ad hominem fallacy" is not the same as point by point criticism of books. If you bought the book, and believe it all, it may FEEL like an ad hominem attack, but you might strive to accept other points of view may exist. Are we a nation of competing ideas, or a nation of forced conformity of thought?