Remington 700 bolt handle

BoogieMan · April 2, 2016, 04:14 PM

Building a 700. I would like to change out the bolt handle and maybe flute the bolt. How is the handle attached to the bolt? Is it simply silver soldered? Also, when fluting the bolt. How deep can I go? I am thinking a 1/8 ball mill about .06 deep with 6 cuts. Anything I should consider or look out for?

**4V50 Gary** · April 2, 2016, 07:58 PM

Bolt handle is silver soldered onto the bolt.

,060 deep is .120 total metal removed. Let me think about it.

BoogieMan · April 3, 2016, 08:36 AM

It's only .120 dp if I use an even number of divisions. I can always go with 5 or 7 divisions so it doesn't line up. Or I can use a different style cutter and go shallower. I guess my question is if there is any issue with weakening the bolt body behind the lugs. Everything is contained in front of the lugs except the tension of striker spring. In that case we are looking at minimal force.

James K · April 3, 2016, 11:12 PM

FWIW, I believe the bolt handle is copper induction brazed, which is (or should be) a stronger setup than silver solder.

Jim

BoogieMan · April 4, 2016, 04:38 AM

Brazed will require more heat to remove then silver solder. So that will make a difference. It also makes more sense. It's cheaper and stronger to do in quantity. I think I will mill it round and thread it rather than remove it and replace it with a threaded one.

mete · April 4, 2016, 07:22 AM

Let's get some definitions since it has always caused problems .
There is a 'silver solder ' that melts at about 400 F. That is a "SOLDER "
There is a 'silver solder 'which is a misnomer as it should be called "BRAZE". This melts at anywhere from about 900 F to1300 F !

The silver solder is much lower strength than silver braze !
If the Remington bolt looks like copper it's a braze .
I'm not being picky about this , it's caused lots of problems for us metallurgists !!

BoogieMan · April 4, 2016, 11:26 AM

To me it appears to be more of a brass color than a silver color. So I am going with it being a brass/bronze braze. My problem is that the only way I have to remove it is by O/A torch. I dont want to heat it to that point with a torch. My other option is to position it in a vise and circular interpolate the current handle then thread mill it. Then I can simply create a custom handle in lathe and screw it on. I was considering going a little more "trick" and creating a full handle from billet and soldering it back to the bolt body.

James K · April 4, 2016, 03:38 PM

Generally, the term "solder" is used when the joining metal is a lead-tin alloy, with a melting point at or under about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Silver solder is a silver-tin alloy with a higher melting point; it makes a stronger joint, but is generally used in applications like fresh water plumbing, where the use of lead would be hazardous to persons drinking the water.

While the term brazing is sometimes used to include silver solder, the word itself comes from the use of brass and it is usually used when the bonding metal is brass or copper.

In the case of the Remington bolt not only is the handle held on by induction brazing, the front of the bolt is a separate part with both locking lugs and it is held into the bolt body by induction brazing. (NOTE: I did NOT say the bolt lugs are brazed on; that silly story was circulated by competitors when Remington first made built-up bolts. The whole front of the bolt, a part that includes the bolt face and both lugs, is inserted into the bolt body and brazed in.)

The brazing is done by electric induction; the copper is inserted between the parts, then the bolt put inside an electric coil that melts the copper and bonds the parts. The bolt handle is then tested in a machine and a punch mark used to indicate that it passed the test.

Have any Remington bolt handles ever come off? Probably there have been some, at least at first. But like many other stories, sensationalism will usually spread faster than truth. Like S&W internal locks (millions died when their guns locked up!!), M1 rifle operating rods (tens of thousands of GI's killed!!), Colt Single Actions (blew up by the thousands!!), P.38's (made of cheap stamped tin!!), such nonsense is best ignored.

Jim

Toney · April 5, 2016, 03:34 PM

My grandson has a 710 with the handle broken off.... I figured he could just order another bolt body, but no....

BoogieMan · April 7, 2016, 05:56 AM

Toney- Have your grandson check out Pacific Gage and Tool. They sell complete bolts that he can purchase and easily install. This is assuming he has the skill to headspace the rifle. Also can send the whole rifle back to remington or most any gunsmith.
For my project I dont see it as practicable to remove the bolt handle and install a newly manufactured one. Brazing with torch is going to create a mess of the bolt and or handle.

Savage99 · April 7, 2016, 09:11 AM

The 700 and 721-722 actions are not really the best design for building unless it's free and practice for some kid to learn smith work.

They are just push feed's with brazed on bolt handles and lack decent safeties that don't control the firing pin.

Look at the mauser or Winchester M70's.

April 2, 2016, 04:14 PM	#1
BoogieMan Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,217	Remington 700 bolt handle Building a 700. I would like to change out the bolt handle and maybe flute the bolt. How is the handle attached to the bolt? Is it simply silver soldered? Also, when fluting the bolt. How deep can I go? I am thinking a 1/8 ball mill about .06 deep with 6 cuts. Anything I should consider or look out for? __________________ Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it. Milton Freidman "If you find yourself in a fair fight,,, Your tactics suck"- Unknown

April 2, 2016, 07:58 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,833	Bolt handle is silver soldered onto the bolt. ,060 deep is .120 total metal removed. Let me think about it. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

April 3, 2016, 08:36 AM	#3
BoogieMan Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,217	It's only .120 dp if I use an even number of divisions. I can always go with 5 or 7 divisions so it doesn't line up. Or I can use a different style cutter and go shallower. I guess my question is if there is any issue with weakening the bolt body behind the lugs. Everything is contained in front of the lugs except the tension of striker spring. In that case we are looking at minimal force. __________________ Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it. Milton Freidman "If you find yourself in a fair fight,,, Your tactics suck"- Unknown

April 4, 2016, 04:38 AM	#5
BoogieMan Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,217	Brazed will require more heat to remove then silver solder. So that will make a difference. It also makes more sense. It's cheaper and stronger to do in quantity. I think I will mill it round and thread it rather than remove it and replace it with a threaded one. __________________ Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it. Milton Freidman "If you find yourself in a fair fight,,, Your tactics suck"- Unknown

April 4, 2016, 07:22 AM	#6
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	Let's get some definitions since it has always caused problems . There is a 'silver solder ' that melts at about 400 F. That is a "SOLDER " There is a 'silver solder 'which is a misnomer as it should be called "BRAZE". This melts at anywhere from about 900 F to1300 F ! The silver solder is much lower strength than silver braze ! If the Remington bolt looks like copper it's a braze . I'm not being picky about this , it's caused lots of problems for us metallurgists !! __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

April 3, 2016, 11:12 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	FWIW, I believe the bolt handle is copper induction brazed, which is (or should be) a stronger setup than silver solder. Jim

April 4, 2016, 11:26 AM	#7
BoogieMan Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,217	To me it appears to be more of a brass color than a silver color. So I am going with it being a brass/bronze braze. My problem is that the only way I have to remove it is by O/A torch. I dont want to heat it to that point with a torch. My other option is to position it in a vise and circular interpolate the current handle then thread mill it. Then I can simply create a custom handle in lathe and screw it on. I was considering going a little more "trick" and creating a full handle from billet and soldering it back to the bolt body. __________________ Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it. Milton Freidman "If you find yourself in a fair fight,,, Your tactics suck"- Unknown

April 4, 2016, 03:38 PM	#8
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Generally, the term "solder" is used when the joining metal is a lead-tin alloy, with a melting point at or under about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Silver solder is a silver-tin alloy with a higher melting point; it makes a stronger joint, but is generally used in applications like fresh water plumbing, where the use of lead would be hazardous to persons drinking the water. While the term brazing is sometimes used to include silver solder, the word itself comes from the use of brass and it is usually used when the bonding metal is brass or copper. In the case of the Remington bolt not only is the handle held on by induction brazing, the front of the bolt is a separate part with both locking lugs and it is held into the bolt body by induction brazing. (NOTE: I did NOT say the bolt lugs are brazed on; that silly story was circulated by competitors when Remington first made built-up bolts. The whole front of the bolt, a part that includes the bolt face and both lugs, is inserted into the bolt body and brazed in.) The brazing is done by electric induction; the copper is inserted between the parts, then the bolt put inside an electric coil that melts the copper and bonds the parts. The bolt handle is then tested in a machine and a punch mark used to indicate that it passed the test. Have any Remington bolt handles ever come off? Probably there have been some, at least at first. But like many other stories, sensationalism will usually spread faster than truth. Like S&W internal locks (millions died when their guns locked up!!), M1 rifle operating rods (tens of thousands of GI's killed!!), Colt Single Actions (blew up by the thousands!!), P.38's (made of cheap stamped tin!!), such nonsense is best ignored. Jim

April 5, 2016, 03:34 PM	#9
Toney Senior Member Join Date: August 17, 2005 Location: Stillwater Oklahoma Posts: 790	My grandson has a 710 with the handle broken off.... I figured he could just order another bolt body, but no....

April 7, 2016, 05:56 AM	#10
BoogieMan Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,217	Toney- Have your grandson check out Pacific Gage and Tool. They sell complete bolts that he can purchase and easily install. This is assuming he has the skill to headspace the rifle. Also can send the whole rifle back to remington or most any gunsmith. For my project I dont see it as practicable to remove the bolt handle and install a newly manufactured one. Brazing with torch is going to create a mess of the bolt and or handle. __________________ Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it. Milton Freidman "If you find yourself in a fair fight,,, Your tactics suck"- Unknown

April 7, 2016, 09:11 AM	#11
Savage99 Senior Member Join Date: May 17, 2004 Posts: 567	The 700 and 721-722 actions are not really the best design for building unless it's free and practice for some kid to learn smith work. They are just push feed's with brazed on bolt handles and lack decent safeties that don't control the firing pin. Look at the mauser or Winchester M70's.