Broken Stock Repair

Bucksnort1 · December 30, 2019, 11:50 AM

A few weeks ago, I was dove hunting. I tripped over a small stump and fell face forward. My shotgun was the first to hit the ground, which broke the stock.

The gun is a Savage Fox Model B side-by-side 20 gauge. The stock is broken directly behind the receiver on both sides. The break on the right side (shooter's view) is mostly a hair line crack and wraps around to almost the safety. The crack on the left side of the receiver is about 3/16" wide and does not wrap around to near the safety. I have a good idea of how to use an adhesive to repair both sides. I want to separate the stock from the receiver to make repair easier.

I thought by removing the trigger guard, I would be able to separate the stock from the receiver; however, I am unable to do this. I think the receiver is connected to the stock by way of a long bolt which is accessible only from the butt of the stock. The problem with this is, I cannot determine how to remove the recoil pad. I see no holes where the pad is screwed to the butt so I'm guessing it is attached with adhesive.

Am I correct about how the stock is connected to the receiver and the way the pad is attached to the butt? Is there another way to separate the stock and receiver?

Pahoo · December 30, 2019, 12:26 PM

Quote:

I think the receiver is connected to the stock by way of a long bolt which is accessible only from the butt of the stock. The problem with this is, I cannot determine how to remove the recoil pad. I see no holes where the pad is screwed to the butt so I'm guessing it is attached with adhesive.

Sure wish you could provide some pictures. ……

Look closer at the Butt-Pad and see if you can see two cross marks. The head of the screws, my be sunk and hidden, under the surface. ….

Quote:

I think the receiver is connected to the stock by way of a long bolt which is accessible only from the butt of the stock.

I feel you are correct as this is the most common way of attachment. I have seen some that are not attached by the long stock bolt but they are usual on more "vintage" shotguns. Seems to me that your stock cracks, are

repairable. …

Be Safe !!!

Bucksnort1 · December 30, 2019, 05:02 PM

Pahoo,

I will check again for screw entry marks. I've used my fingers to probe for entries but to no avail.

I will attach photos later.

Blindstitch · December 30, 2019, 05:32 PM

Why don't you look where they have the parts schematics?
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...guns-sav/bse-c

Your screws are sunk in the pad. If you look at videos of people mounting them they oil up the screwdrivers and screws so when tightened it slides through the pad without tearing or stretching.

FrankenMauser · December 30, 2019, 05:57 PM

Poke at suspected screw locations with a blunt rod or punch that won't mar the pad.
If you find a hole, you should be able to push the rod/punch through to contact metal.

If you really can't find any, you've possibly won the Bubba lottery: Someone glued it on, to eliminate the screws (or because the holes were stripped). I've seen a few.

When you do get the butt pad off and go for the big screw, be VERY careful to make sure the screwdriver is centered in the screw slot. If the driver is not centered, the blade can jam against the side of the bore hole in the wood and split the stock.

Bucksnort1 · December 30, 2019, 06:33 PM

Here are two photos of the damage. l may have to do two replies, one for each photo.

It's possible the break goes from one side to the other.

Bucksnort1 · December 30, 2019, 06:39 PM

My approach to repair is use Dura Bond and clamps for the left side; however, the hairline crack on the right side isn't wide enough to insert the adhesive. A friend suggested twisting the stock a little to see if it open the crack, which it does but still not enough for the adhesive. I'm not a carpenter and don't have the tools do insert a butterfly so for now, that is out.

If I can't do an adequate repair, I will look for another stock.

FrankenMauser · December 30, 2019, 07:04 PM

In my opinion, that needs to be pinned.
The right side might require a full break for a proper repair.

More experienced opinions may differ.

Blindstitch · December 30, 2019, 07:11 PM

You can always use a tool to spread the crack open a bit more and push the adhesive in between with a toothpick. I don't know about your adhesive but I've heard and seen a lot of repairs with acraglas.

KEYBEAR · December 30, 2019, 08:07 PM

I have had two stocks fixed in the last two years both bad cracks both came back as new . If the old Fox has any value and you really would like it fixed I would send it to this guy . Bachelder Gunmaker GRAND RAPIDS MI . PH 616 459 3636
He only does wood and has years doing it . If you call and sent a good PICTURE he can give you a price .

Pahoo · December 30, 2019, 08:11 PM

Quote:

In my opinion, that needs to be pinned.
The right side might require a full break for a proper repair.

My approach to this repair, is to basically use pins on the inside of both sides. I have used toothpicks but lately went to bamboo skews. I would use multiple pins on both sides. All pin-holes and pins are strictly on the insid of the stock. The layout depends on the length and contour of the cracks. I may go with the grain or random directions. You really don't have to force any crack apart. Lately I have been using TiteBond-III but I have also used acraglas. Force as much glue into the cracks and pinholes Then push the pins into the holes; that will force the glue, into and out the cracks. While it is still wet, you can wipe away excess TiteBond with a damp cloth. now you can apply your soft-face clamp with just enough pressure to close the gap hold in place.

Quote:

I would send it to this guy . Bachelder Gunmaker GRAND RAPIDS MI . PH 616 459 3636

Great idea !!!

Be Safe !!!

tangolima · December 30, 2019, 10:39 PM

I am afraid that stock has intrinsic deficiency in the wood. It doesn't have enough continuous grains going through the wrist. A small amount of lateral load separates the wood like a layered cake. It can be repaired but it probably won't last. I would have the stock replaced.

People are always attracted to fancy wood patterns, like burl of a tree. It is nice on a furniture, but not so good on a gun stock. Like in a rung of a ladder, you want to have maximum amount of clear and continuous wood grains through the wrist.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Bucksnort1 · December 31, 2019, 01:55 PM

Pahoo,

Please explain how pins are installed. I am not a wood worker.

If I can't complete a repair to my satisfaction, I will look for a new stock.

In a couple of weeks, I'm going to the large Phoenix gun show. I will look there for a stock.

Pahoo · December 31, 2019, 03:55 PM

Bucksnort1
I'm sending you this link and them follow-up with a PM, that will provide with some of my "notes". Among other hobbies, I am also a woodworker. .

I might add that you have an advantage of working with fresh cracks and the surfaces are not contaminated. ….

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+cracked+stock

Be Safe !!!

bbqncigars · January 1, 2020, 09:24 PM

I have used the same technique that Pahoo mentions successfully on a few different wood repairs. It's not tough, it just takes a little patience and attention. The right size drill bit for the pins is important.

December 30, 2019, 11:50 AM	#1
Bucksnort1 Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2013 Location: Littleton, Colorado Posts: 1,121	Broken Stock Repair A few weeks ago, I was dove hunting. I tripped over a small stump and fell face forward. My shotgun was the first to hit the ground, which broke the stock. The gun is a Savage Fox Model B side-by-side 20 gauge. The stock is broken directly behind the receiver on both sides. The break on the right side (shooter's view) is mostly a hair line crack and wraps around to almost the safety. The crack on the left side of the receiver is about 3/16" wide and does not wrap around to near the safety. I have a good idea of how to use an adhesive to repair both sides. I want to separate the stock from the receiver to make repair easier. I thought by removing the trigger guard, I would be able to separate the stock from the receiver; however, I am unable to do this. I think the receiver is connected to the stock by way of a long bolt which is accessible only from the butt of the stock. The problem with this is, I cannot determine how to remove the recoil pad. I see no holes where the pad is screwed to the butt so I'm guessing it is attached with adhesive. Am I correct about how the stock is connected to the receiver and the way the pad is attached to the butt? Is there another way to separate the stock and receiver?

December 30, 2019, 05:32 PM	#4
Blindstitch Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2013 Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 2,692	Why don't you look where they have the parts schematics? https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...guns-sav/bse-c Your screws are sunk in the pad. If you look at videos of people mounting them they oil up the screwdrivers and screws so when tightened it slides through the pad without tearing or stretching. __________________ NRA Lifetime Member

December 30, 2019, 05:57 PM	#5
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,423	Poke at suspected screw locations with a blunt rod or punch that won't mar the pad. If you find a hole, you should be able to push the rod/punch through to contact metal. If you really can't find any, you've possibly won the Bubba lottery: Someone glued it on, to eliminate the screws (or because the holes were stripped). I've seen a few. When you do get the butt pad off and go for the big screw, be VERY careful to make sure the screwdriver is centered in the screw slot. If the driver is not centered, the blade can jam against the side of the bore hole in the wood and split the stock. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

December 30, 2019, 07:04 PM	#8
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,423	In my opinion, that needs to be pinned. The right side might require a full break for a proper repair. More experienced opinions may differ. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

December 30, 2019, 07:11 PM	#9
Blindstitch Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2013 Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 2,692	You can always use a tool to spread the crack open a bit more and push the adhesive in between with a toothpick. I don't know about your adhesive but I've heard and seen a lot of repairs with acraglas. __________________ NRA Lifetime Member

December 30, 2019, 05:02 PM	#3
Bucksnort1 Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2013 Location: Littleton, Colorado Posts: 1,121	Pahoo, I will check again for screw entry marks. I've used my fingers to probe for entries but to no avail. I will attach photos later.

December 30, 2019, 06:39 PM	#7
Bucksnort1 Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2013 Location: Littleton, Colorado Posts: 1,121	My approach to repair is use Dura Bond and clamps for the left side; however, the hairline crack on the right side isn't wide enough to insert the adhesive. A friend suggested twisting the stock a little to see if it open the crack, which it does but still not enough for the adhesive. I'm not a carpenter and don't have the tools do insert a butterfly so for now, that is out. If I can't do an adequate repair, I will look for another stock.

December 30, 2019, 08:07 PM	#10
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	I have had two stocks fixed in the last two years both bad cracks both came back as new . If the old Fox has any value and you really would like it fixed I would send it to this guy . Bachelder Gunmaker GRAND RAPIDS MI . PH 616 459 3636 He only does wood and has years doing it . If you call and sent a good PICTURE he can give you a price .

December 30, 2019, 10:39 PM	#12
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,808	I am afraid that stock has intrinsic deficiency in the wood. It doesn't have enough continuous grains going through the wrist. A small amount of lateral load separates the wood like a layered cake. It can be repaired but it probably won't last. I would have the stock replaced. People are always attracted to fancy wood patterns, like burl of a tree. It is nice on a furniture, but not so good on a gun stock. Like in a rung of a ladder, you want to have maximum amount of clear and continuous wood grains through the wrist. -TL Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

December 31, 2019, 01:55 PM	#13
Bucksnort1 Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2013 Location: Littleton, Colorado Posts: 1,121	Pahoo, Please explain how pins are installed. I am not a wood worker. If I can't complete a repair to my satisfaction, I will look for a new stock. In a couple of weeks, I'm going to the large Phoenix gun show. I will look there for a stock.

December 31, 2019, 03:55 PM	#14
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Bucksnort1 I'm sending you this link and them follow-up with a PM, that will provide with some of my "notes". Among other hobbies, I am also a woodworker. . I might add that you have an advantage of working with fresh cracks and the surfaces are not contaminated. …. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+cracked+stock Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

January 1, 2020, 09:24 PM	#15
bbqncigars Senior Member Join Date: February 1, 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 525	I have used the same technique that Pahoo mentions successfully on a few different wood repairs. It's not tough, it just takes a little patience and attention. The right size drill bit for the pins is important. __________________ "Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." A. Brilliant

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