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Old June 28, 2010, 11:14 PM   #1
Farmland
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Reloading the Springfield 45-70 Trap Door

I really don’t know how long the Springfield Trap Door has been in the family. I know it has been 81 years plus. What I do know about this gun is interesting. First of all they are known as the 1873 Springfield 45-70 Trap Door. Though mine was made in 1884, they are easy to date because each year added something different. In addition the serial number helps get the proper year.

My rifle was put into service with the First Regiment Rhode Island US Volunteers who were called into service for the Spanish American War in 1889. I have the date the rifle was issued but I don’t have it around right now. Interesting the unit did serve a brief period of time in my home state of Pennsylvania. They were sent to Camp Meade in August of 1889 trying to out run typhoid epidemic. This unit was mustered of service on March 30, 1899. So the rifle never made it into battle.

How it came into our family is really unknown, it could have been bought as a hunting rifle or won in a card game.

The rifle is in great shape and it was shot a few time each year during the last 81 years. However for the past 25 years it has fired less than 50 rounds. This was about to change, as I want to bring this gun out of retirement. Since the gun really is not a one of a kind rifle I saw no need to just let it sit around. In addition I really didn’t want to shoot factory loads of jacketed bullets.

One of the first things I did was really give the bore a good checking out. At first the bore looked like a smooth bore, with very faint rifling. At first I thought it was just shot out since the crown had some noticeable wear from prior cleaning. So I started long slow process of cleaning and after some cleaning I started to see lands and grooves. The barrel just had over 100 years of crud that needed cleaned out. This turned out to be a long process and it will wear out some brushes.

Now I had to come up with a load and the big question was black powder or smokeless powder. After some research I went the smokeless route. Though I plan on doing some black powder reloads later this summer. The load I found that worked well with the gun was RL – 7 with lead 405gr bullets. Reloading the 45-70 is a simple process and of course every company makes the dies. I was lucky enough to have over 300 once fired cases. So a fast turn in the tumbler and they came out looking like new.

Resizing straight wall cases are pretty simple though you still need to remember the case lube. I forgot to do this on one case and yes the entire bottom of the case will separate. I was luck since I was using Hornady dies I could take out the decapping pin and rod. I had a correct size tap and was able to tap put the tap into the case at the point the bottom had separated. A few turns later and the tap was secure. I placed it back in the press and tapped out the case with a rod using the die as the end of the case. This took less than 5 minutes. Adding large rifle primers with a hand primer was the next step.

I gave the case a slight bell so that I would not shave any of the lead bullets. If you are using Hornady dies you have to make sure not to give it too much of a bell or it will not fit into the bullet seating/crimp die. Charging the powder I used my RCBS powder measure and it was down right accurate with the RL-7. What works well for my rifle is 27.5 grains. The last step was to seat the bullet to 2.55 OAL and give a slight crimp since this will be used in a single shot trap door rifle. I found doing the crimp in an additional step was much easier, plus I use the Lee factory Die for this step.

So how does the old girls shoot with my reloads? I don’t know why but I can’t give you a spread. I have been shooting steel at 250 yards and the old girl has not missed the steel yet. The steel is 12 inches x 12 inches. I can’t really tell you why I haven’t tried a paper target yet. Though is does have one ground hog to its credit at around 75 yards. So far I have put 25 rounds through this rifle, maybe when I get some free time over the weekend I will see what type of accuracy it really has.

But the point is reloading can be done for these old rifles and they can be made to have some real fun. Of course you really have to know if the rifle is safe and if you are reloading for the Trap Door you must know the difference between the three load levels for the 45-70. What you don’t want to do is work up a load for the modern lever action or the single shot Ruger and use that in the Trap Door. The Trap Door cannot handle that kind of pressure.

I hope this helps some one who wants to shoot their old Trap Door. If I bored everyone with the long story I’m sorry but finding the history was just part of the time spent on learning how to reload for this old girl.

If you have some tips by all means share them.
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Old June 28, 2010, 11:29 PM   #2
kraigwy
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You want to keep the loads mild of course. You can either shoot Black Powder (but its a pain) or Shoot Trailboss powder. About 12 Grns of Trailboss pushing a 405 Grn Lead Bullet just about equals the BP load. Its mild, accurate, and easy on your gun.
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Old June 29, 2010, 01:14 PM   #3
darkgael
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Trapdoor

The Trail Boss suggestion is a good one.
Personally, I use the cavalry loading of 55 grains of FFg under a 405 grain FN bullet, The extra space is taken up by a grease cookie and some PuffLon filler.
Nice, easy shooting accurate load.
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Old June 29, 2010, 03:24 PM   #4
Scorch
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Quote:
My rifle was put into service with the First Regiment Rhode Island US Volunteers who were called into service for the Spanish American War in 1889.
The Spanish-American War was in 1898. It lasted from April 1898 to August 1898, 4 months.
Quote:
First of all they are known as the 1873 Springfield 45-70 Trap Door. Though mine was made in 1884, they are easy to date because each year added something different.
If it says 1884 on the lockplate, it may be a Model 1884, although locks were often changed out by armorers. More info here
http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/
Quote:
At first the bore looked like a smooth bore, with very faint rifling. At first I thought it was just shot out since the crown had some noticeable wear from prior cleaning. So I started long slow process of cleaning and after some cleaning I started to see lands and grooves. The barrel just had over 100 years of crud that needed cleaned out.
The firearms lubricant of choice was beef tallow, an excellent lubricant and preservative, but it will harden over time into a hard/waxy shell.
Quote:
Resizing straight wall cases are pretty simple though you still need to remember the case lube.
45-70 cases are not straight, they are tapered. Case lube is required.
Quote:
Though I plan on doing some black powder reloads later this summer. The load I found that worked well with the gun was RL – 7 with lead 405gr bullets.
If you are going to load black powder, consider the following:
* Invest in a set of dippers or make your own dippers. Do not use a smokeless powder dispenser. Static electricity can ignite black powder.
* Seat the bullet/base wad/grease cookie directly on top of the powder, no air space.
* Investigate how to paper patch bullets, it will make the cartridges much cleaner to handle.
* Look into American Pioneer Powder. It is a reformulated black powder, not a substitute. It is very easy to clean up.
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Old June 29, 2010, 03:42 PM   #5
Farmland
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Yeah I put the wrong date down it should be 1898. What can I say sometimes my fingers don't work right.

I did talk to Keith Rush about the gun.

http://www.trapdoors.com/about.php

He was able to give me the year built and when it went into service and with who. He does that for free and he even calls you back to talk about your gun. I think I spent an hour on the phone with him.

Taper not straight - well you got me there. I guess I should have said not a bottle neck.

Whiel I haven't started any BP reloading this site really gives you some nice details.
http://www.stewartdawge.com/Introduc...%20Loading.htm
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Old June 29, 2010, 08:16 PM   #6
darkgael
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APP vs BP

Quote:
* Look into American Pioneer Powder. It is a reformulated black powder, not a substitute. It is very easy to clean up.
Gotta disagree with you there. APP is ascorbic acid based like its predecessor Clean Shot. It is NOT BP.
In fact, here is a quote from the APP website:
Quote:
ABSOLUTELY NO BLACK POWDER is added to our American Pioneer® Powder
What is to reformulate about BP? Sulfur (10%), Saltpeter (75%), Charcoal (15%)? Over the centuries, there have been other proportions tried but they are all very close to this. ( 67/22/11 is another).
It ain't black.
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Last edited by darkgael; June 30, 2010 at 06:18 AM.
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Old July 2, 2010, 04:59 PM   #7
Farmland
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I have now come full circle safely loading for the original Springfield. I did my first black powder reloads and it was cool. At least I didn't blow anything up.

I couldn't find anything other than Pyrodex so I accepted that would have to do for now. I got the FFG along with a new larger black powder measure. The next thing I had to figure out was a drop tube. I just happen to find the right size hollow aluminum tube. Of course finding any correct size patches was impossible.

To make the patches I took a used 45-70 case and used my deburring tool inside the case and outside the case mouth to make is sharp. Then using some card stock I used this along with a hammer to make the card stock wads.

So now I had the everything except a funnel to start my reloading. I only had plastic funnels and they say not to used plastic because of possible static and explosions. My solution to this was to make a paper funnel.

Here was my process. I didn't enlarge the primer hole but I did use a Federal Large Mag rifle primer. I loaded the powder measure with 65 gr. ( I had tested this amount along with the wad and bullet for the seating depth to make sure I would have no air space. You can not have an air space between the powder and the bullet.)

I then dropped this down my drop tube into the case. I added my card stock wad then lightly compressed the load with a wooden dowel rod. I let the bullet finish the compression when I seated it.

I used my Hornady dies to flair the mouth and seat the bullet. I use the Lee factory crimp die to give a slight crimp.

I now had my first Black Powder Cartridge. Last came the important part. I can tell you I was both excited and a little scared at the same time. I keep thinking what if I did something wrong, would the gun explode.

The load worked just fine and you knew you were firing a Black Powder load with all that smoke. I will tell you though if you clean your guns in the living room like I do you might want to find another place. This stuff stinks and my wife and kids were not too happy. My wife said it smelled like I crapped my self.

I still have to see If I can load 70 gr and get the proper compression for the 405 gr lead bullet.

If you find I am doing something wrong or should do something different let me know. I am self taught after reading many source on how to reload Black Powder cartridges.
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Old July 13, 2010, 04:02 PM   #8
Hedning
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I use BP only in my TD. 70 grs of Swiss no 4. Shooting only 500grs bullets. The load have to be compressed to get the right pressure and length. I use "milkcoins" between the powder and the bullet (dont have to do that), I do that if I dont crimp the casings. Just to make the powder stay in there if a bullet drops out.

Accuracy is surprisingly good. Using a blowtube between shots I make an average of 1.5-2 moa groupings.

Using the 500 grs bullet makes reloading a bit easier imo. My experience is that the 405grs is a little itchy when it comes to pressure. If you dont reach the right pressure, accuracy could suffer. Just my experience anyway...
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