Loading for bolt gun vs. auto loader

Glennster · March 29, 2007, 05:58 AM

I'm new to high power rifle loading. I'm getting fairly good at loading for my .308 bolt gun, but would like to load for my M1A as well.
I do not crimp the brass/bullet for my bolt gun, will I need to do that for the M1A???
Is that the main difference between loading for the bolt vs. auto???

hodaka · March 29, 2007, 06:33 AM

In loading for AR's in 223 and 308 I have never crimped and never had a problem.

Smokey Joe · March 29, 2007, 09:37 AM

Glennster--Coupla "mebbe's" here.

You MAY have to crimp the bullets. Try it with and without, with less-than-max loads, run 'em up through the magazine and carefully note if the bullets shift in the case necks as the rifle cycles them up through the mag and into the chamber. The "standard wisdom" is to crimp for autoloaders, AFAIK.

The other different thing for autoloaders is that you almost always have to FL size the cases every reloading. With a bolt gun, neck-sizing is the way to go, for increased accuracy, but autoloaders require the FL sized cases. Try it both ways if you want, but I'd plan on FL sizing the cases.

Aside from those 2 considerations, reloading for a rifle is reloading for a rifle. Pretty much all-same-do-it.

Enjoy.

rwilson452 · March 29, 2007, 10:17 AM

The other thing to consider with an auto loader such as the M1/M1A etc is to watch the pressure curve. especially in the m1/M14 family of actions is too much pressure can result in a bent op rod. altho the std AR doesn't have an op rod I suspect too much pressure will result in something bad happening. On the other side if the coin, too little pressure and the action will fail to fully function. I don't know anything about the AK

30Cal · March 29, 2007, 11:20 AM

You'll need to FL resize.

You need to be careful about primers. They must be seated below flush (free floating firing pin + high primer = slamfire).

Bullets should be 175grs or less.

IMR4064/Varget are about the slowest powders you should consider.

The gold standard load is
168gr Sierra/Nosler, 2.8"
41.5gr IMR4895, Lake City brass

If that doesn't shoot well, then the rifle is broken.

Ty

Glennster · March 29, 2007, 01:42 PM

1. THANK YOU all for the help!
2. I'm using the BL-C2 Powder, will that work in place of the IMR4064?

rwilson452 · March 29, 2007, 01:46 PM

I would consider BL-C2 a bit on the slow side. it's slower than 4064. As usual YMMV

rwilson452 · March 29, 2007, 01:51 PM

Burn rate chart

http://www.hodgdon.com/data/general/burnratechart.php

March 29, 2007, 05:58 AM	#1
Glennster Senior Member Join Date: July 31, 2005 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 226	Loading for bolt gun vs. auto loader I'm new to high power rifle loading. I'm getting fairly good at loading for my .308 bolt gun, but would like to load for my M1A as well. I do not crimp the brass/bullet for my bolt gun, will I need to do that for the M1A??? Is that the main difference between loading for the bolt vs. auto???

March 29, 2007, 09:37 AM	#3
Smokey Joe Senior Member Join Date: July 14, 2001 Location: State of Confusion Posts: 2,106	Loading for an autoloader Glennster--Coupla "mebbe's" here. You MAY have to crimp the bullets. Try it with and without, with less-than-max loads, run 'em up through the magazine and carefully note if the bullets shift in the case necks as the rifle cycles them up through the mag and into the chamber. The "standard wisdom" is to crimp for autoloaders, AFAIK. The other different thing for autoloaders is that you almost always have to FL size the cases every reloading. With a bolt gun, neck-sizing is the way to go, for increased accuracy, but autoloaders require the FL sized cases. Try it both ways if you want, but I'd plan on FL sizing the cases. Aside from those 2 considerations, reloading for a rifle is reloading for a rifle. Pretty much all-same-do-it. Enjoy. __________________ God Bless America --Smokey Joe

March 29, 2007, 01:51 PM	#8
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	burn rate chart Burn rate chart http://www.hodgdon.com/data/general/burnratechart.php

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March 29, 2007, 06:33 AM	#2
hodaka Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2006 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,010	In loading for AR's in 223 and 308 I have never crimped and never had a problem.

March 29, 2007, 10:17 AM	#4
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	The other thing to consider with an auto loader such as the M1/M1A etc is to watch the pressure curve. especially in the m1/M14 family of actions is too much pressure can result in a bent op rod. altho the std AR doesn't have an op rod I suspect too much pressure will result in something bad happening. On the other side if the coin, too little pressure and the action will fail to fully function. I don't know anything about the AK

March 29, 2007, 11:20 AM	#5
30Cal Senior Member Join Date: December 3, 2002 Posts: 1,264	You'll need to FL resize. You need to be careful about primers. They must be seated below flush (free floating firing pin + high primer = slamfire). Bullets should be 175grs or less. IMR4064/Varget are about the slowest powders you should consider. The gold standard load is 168gr Sierra/Nosler, 2.8" 41.5gr IMR4895, Lake City brass If that doesn't shoot well, then the rifle is broken. Ty

March 29, 2007, 01:42 PM	#6
Glennster Senior Member Join Date: July 31, 2005 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 226	1. THANK YOU all for the help! 2. I'm using the BL-C2 Powder, will that work in place of the IMR4064?

March 29, 2007, 01:46 PM	#7
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	I would consider BL-C2 a bit on the slow side. it's slower than 4064. As usual YMMV