Lyman scale ?

rebs · May 4, 2016, 07:23 AM

I bought a used Lyman beam scale. Where the pointer is there is the zero in the center and horizontal lines above and below the zero, what do they represent, are they 1/10 of a grain ?

briandg · May 4, 2016, 08:48 AM

Always seemed that way. Don't count on it working. I advise you to center your scale before use, and weigh your loads on that center. That's the way it's meant to be done. I remember in the past seeing scales with nothing but the center index mark.

Btw, it certainly wouldn't hurt to do some testing. As little as a grain can mean the difference between a safe load and a potential disaster. Taking sets of ten bullets in several weights, weighing them, a nd comparing the average weight to the specified weight is a good start for that, but you really should get a set of calibration weights, especially if you are someone who presses the limits of a load, or runs everything at max loads. A set of calibration weights cost only a few dollars, and you really ought to check every time you set a load. Amazon has a ten dollar set.

One problem, I don't know how easy it will be to find one cali b rated in grains, but it's simple to put together a card with converted numbers.

FITASC · May 4, 2016, 09:23 AM

RCBS has a set of check weights; available on Amazon for about $30. I'm sure other brands offer the same thing

rebs · May 5, 2016, 08:44 AM

I don't press the limits of any load, I found I can get excellent accuracy loading under max. I was just curious about those marks.

**Unclenick** · May 5, 2016, 09:45 AM

AFAIK, all the beam balance scales sold for reloading except the Lee are made by Ohaus for branding by the sellers on an OEM basis. Should be as good as any other of that type.

The graduations on the pointer scale of any beam balance are meant to equal the least significant setting value on the counterpoise beam(s). For powder scales that it 0.1 grains. If 0.1 grain doesn't move the beam that far, then there may be damage to the knife edge or it may need cleaning. I believe these can be sent for repair, if necessary.

rebs · May 5, 2016, 12:32 PM

Thank you unclenick that is waht I was looking for.
so if I weigh a charge with the setting of 4.5 and when I put the charge on the scale and the pointer goes up 2 lines that would mean that charge is 2/10th over right ? 2 lines lower would be -2/10th so that charge is under by 2/10 right ?

michaeldarnold · May 5, 2016, 03:21 PM

I also have a Lyman beam scale. I check the weight calibration after centering using a 150 gr bullet that has been weighed on other scales to confirm that it truly is 150 gr.

I always shoot for on the 0 on my loads.

This method hasn't let me down, but only because I use a test weight of known amount.

Mike

mehavey · May 5, 2016, 04:44 PM

Quote:

so if I weigh a charge with the setting of 4.5 and when I put the charge on the scale and the pointer goes up 2 lines that would mean that charge is 2/10th over right ? 2 lines lower would be -2/10th so that charge is under by 2/10 right ?

Correct.

FWIW-1: While the scale is settling, tap the table it's sitting on w/ your finger (as in drumming your fingers).
It will then settle to true balance, and do so very quickly.

FWIW-2: ±0.1gr for all but the very, very (very) lightest charges will never affect the end results one whit.
(This speeds up life considerably)

**Unclenick** · May 5, 2016, 04:48 PM

Well, it might be 0.1 whits. But not normally other variables are greater and cause more velocity variation. Not seating primers perfectly will do more. Not deburring your flash holes will do more with some slower powders, in particular.

briandg · May 5, 2016, 09:24 PM

If a person allowed himself to get wrapped up in all of the dozens of minor to major things, from the big ones like heavy military brass or all copper bullets down to primer choice, some people, such as me, would be ready to give up.

That's why I tend to hang at the low end of the scales. I've heard of people loading to maximum in winter testing, and then having extreme heat send pressures up.

mikld · May 6, 2016, 11:32 AM

Yep those hash marks represent .1 (1/10) of a grain. I have 3 powder scales (I can't pass up a deal) and my favorite is a Lyman/Ohaus D5.

There are many "theories" involved in reloading but most are best handled with plain old logic. Luckily I started "pre-web" when life was much slower/safer and for reloading, not a lot of the "necessities" were well known. I met excellent handgun marksmen/reloaders that never trimmed a case nor tumbled any brass. Today that would be unthinkable. There are many "new" methods/processes available with a few key strokes and it can be confusing. But I believe in "Easy Does It" and "There's only one way to eat an elephant, that's one bite at a time"...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

rebs · May 6, 2016, 01:27 PM

Thanks, you guys are always a big help to me.

Carriertxv · May 6, 2016, 09:52 PM

Of the several things that you should do when using any scale be it beam or electronic I found the one thing that made a difference was having them on a very solid base. I have a piece of 1/2" X 12" X 18" tempered glass that I have put whatever scale I'm using on.

May 4, 2016, 07:23 AM	#1
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	Lyman scale ? I bought a used Lyman beam scale. Where the pointer is there is the zero in the center and horizontal lines above and below the zero, what do they represent, are they 1/10 of a grain ?

May 4, 2016, 08:48 AM	#2
briandg Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2010 Posts: 5,468	Always seemed that way. Don't count on it working. I advise you to center your scale before use, and weigh your loads on that center. That's the way it's meant to be done. I remember in the past seeing scales with nothing but the center index mark. Btw, it certainly wouldn't hurt to do some testing. As little as a grain can mean the difference between a safe load and a potential disaster. Taking sets of ten bullets in several weights, weighing them, a nd comparing the average weight to the specified weight is a good start for that, but you really should get a set of calibration weights, especially if you are someone who presses the limits of a load, or runs everything at max loads. A set of calibration weights cost only a few dollars, and you really ought to check every time you set a load. Amazon has a ten dollar set. One problem, I don't know how easy it will be to find one cali b rated in grains, but it's simple to put together a card with converted numbers. __________________ None.

May 4, 2016, 09:23 AM	#3
FITASC Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2014 Posts: 6,446	RCBS has a set of check weights; available on Amazon for about $30. I'm sure other brands offer the same thing __________________ "I believe that people have a right to decide their own destinies; people own themselves. I also believe that, in a democracy, government exists because (and only so long as) individual citizens give it a 'temporary license to exist'—in exchange for a promise that it will behave itself. In a democracy, you own the government—it doesn't own you."- Frank Zappa

May 5, 2016, 09:45 AM	#5
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	AFAIK, all the beam balance scales sold for reloading except the Lee are made by Ohaus for branding by the sellers on an OEM basis. Should be as good as any other of that type. The graduations on the pointer scale of any beam balance are meant to equal the least significant setting value on the counterpoise beam(s). For powder scales that it 0.1 grains. If 0.1 grain doesn't move the beam that far, then there may be damage to the knife edge or it may need cleaning. I believe these can be sent for repair, if necessary. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

May 5, 2016, 04:48 PM	#9
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Well, it might be 0.1 whits. But not normally other variables are greater and cause more velocity variation. Not seating primers perfectly will do more. Not deburring your flash holes will do more with some slower powders, in particular. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

May 5, 2016, 08:44 AM	#4
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	I don't press the limits of any load, I found I can get excellent accuracy loading under max. I was just curious about those marks.

May 5, 2016, 12:32 PM	#6
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	Thank you unclenick that is waht I was looking for. so if I weigh a charge with the setting of 4.5 and when I put the charge on the scale and the pointer goes up 2 lines that would mean that charge is 2/10th over right ? 2 lines lower would be -2/10th so that charge is under by 2/10 right ?

May 5, 2016, 03:21 PM	#7
michaeldarnold Senior Member Join Date: April 8, 2016 Location: St. Louis Suburbs Posts: 137	I also have a Lyman beam scale. I check the weight calibration after centering using a 150 gr bullet that has been weighed on other scales to confirm that it truly is 150 gr. I always shoot for on the 0 on my loads. This method hasn't let me down, but only because I use a test weight of known amount. Mike

May 5, 2016, 09:24 PM	#10
briandg Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2010 Posts: 5,468	If a person allowed himself to get wrapped up in all of the dozens of minor to major things, from the big ones like heavy military brass or all copper bullets down to primer choice, some people, such as me, would be ready to give up. That's why I tend to hang at the low end of the scales. I've heard of people loading to maximum in winter testing, and then having extreme heat send pressures up. __________________ None.

May 6, 2016, 11:32 AM	#11
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	Yep those hash marks represent .1 (1/10) of a grain. I have 3 powder scales (I can't pass up a deal) and my favorite is a Lyman/Ohaus D5. There are many "theories" involved in reloading but most are best handled with plain old logic. Luckily I started "pre-web" when life was much slower/safer and for reloading, not a lot of the "necessities" were well known. I met excellent handgun marksmen/reloaders that never trimmed a case nor tumbled any brass. Today that would be unthinkable. There are many "new" methods/processes available with a few key strokes and it can be confusing. But I believe in "Easy Does It" and "There's only one way to eat an elephant, that's one bite at a time"... Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun... __________________ My Anchor is holding fast! I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...

May 6, 2016, 01:27 PM	#12
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	Thanks, you guys are always a big help to me.

May 6, 2016, 09:52 PM	#13
Carriertxv Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2013 Posts: 268	Of the several things that you should do when using any scale be it beam or electronic I found the one thing that made a difference was having them on a very solid base. I have a piece of 1/2" X 12" X 18" tempered glass that I have put whatever scale I'm using on.