July 2, 2010, 08:29 PM | #1 |
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Removing roll marks or stampings -best way?
I have an Argentine FM Hi Power on the way, one of the Century imports. Of course those goofballs chose to mark the slide with the 'CAI Georgia VT' and it looks tacky.
Has anyone had any luck in removing engraving or import marks on guns? It looks like it's not as deep as the manufacture engraving, so I might try sanding it down. The whole gun is going to get blasted down and refinished in the end - I'd like to have the import markings gone in the finished product. Last edited by kokopelli; July 3, 2010 at 09:35 AM. |
July 2, 2010, 09:35 PM | #2 |
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Those import marks are there by Federal rule, removing it might not be advisable. And since guns without import markings usually sell higher than those with you might also me looked upon like a forger.
That said, you can grind off the markings, but it will show unless you refinish the gun, which again affects the value.
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July 2, 2010, 11:53 PM | #3 |
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engraving
the ATF specifies the size of the lettering and the depth on all imports. the placement however is up to the importer.
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July 3, 2010, 07:03 AM | #4 |
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Removing engraving
You must mean removing roll marks or stampings. Engraving usually means decorative cut embellishments.
On a flat surface like the slide of a High Power, the slide may be surface ground and refinished, depending on how deep the markings are. However, that treatment would result in all markings being lessened. |
July 3, 2010, 09:43 AM | #5 |
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Ok, - per the ATF, any markings can be removed except the serial number. As far as forging- this is not a 'valuable' gun like a German Lugar or such, just a FM90 Hi Power. I'm not removing the 'FM' Argentina marks, just the CAI.
I'm just wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks on removing the stamped lettering on a slide that worked. I know I can sand it off, -and it will be refinished...but I'm wondering what 'fill in' could be done that would work with the rebluing process or plating, etc... |
July 3, 2010, 09:54 AM | #6 |
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The best method is to file/ sand it off.
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July 3, 2010, 01:50 PM | #7 |
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If you know anyone who works in a machineshop, you could see if they would be willing to fire up the surface grinder for you. If you do, have them do both sides evenly.
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July 3, 2010, 04:14 PM | #8 |
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I think the surface grinder would be the way to go also.
You can remove .001" or so at a time, and it will be perfectly even and uniform across the surface.
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July 3, 2010, 04:27 PM | #9 |
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It's not worth the effort. Anything you do yourself will look worse than the engraving. And if you have it professionally removed and reblued, you would have been better off to just sell it and buy something you like.
Plus, I've never seen any such work removed where it wasn't somehow noticeable. |
July 3, 2010, 08:05 PM | #10 |
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...and here I thought Atlantis was a place of cheer and optimism!
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July 3, 2010, 08:37 PM | #11 |
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You can look sad all you want, but Atlantis is pretty much right. Even if you have the gun or at least the slide totally refinished, there is no guararntee the marking will not show through even when the surface is apparently clear.
If it were real engraving there might be no problem because engraving does not disturb the molecular structure of the steel, but stamping and such devices as an electric pencil do. I have tried to remove similar stampings; on one rifle, I had to actually grind away at least 1/16 inch before the stamp stopped showing through new bluing. I have had similar experiences with the punch type electric pencil, when marks showed through Parkerizing. I suggest you just consider the mark part of the history of the pistol and not lose any sleep over it. Jim |
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