Fitting a different barrel and cylinder to 1851 Navy

noelf2 · April 12, 2018, 01:03 PM

I picked up an unfired pietta 1851 Navy .44 brasser a few weeks ago, for a song, and decided I would convert it to .36 caliber with some other spare parts I had around. Already had a cylinder and sheriff barrel in .36, so tried it fit it together. All goes well except the barrel and cylinder bind with the wedge in, and the wedge is really tight. I cut some aluminum foil disks to drop in the barrel's arbor hole, to see if I could fill the obvious gap. After about 6 pieces, it went together and cycles fine. The foil will only last so long, I'm sure, so what should I use as a more permanent spacer? Where can I get metal spacers that are thin enough? Also, should I shape the wedge or leave it that tight? It will come out tapping with a brass punch.

Hawg · April 12, 2018, 04:45 PM

Leave the wedge and get some washers a little smaller than the arbor. You might have to cut up a feeler gauge to get a perfect fit.

ClemBert · April 12, 2018, 06:25 PM

Tuco...is that you?

And, will it magically shoot cartridges when you are done?

noelf2 · April 12, 2018, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Tuco...is that you?

No but I wish it was as easy as he made it seem. I do shoot like that though.

bedbugbilly · April 12, 2018, 07:40 PM

If it took 6 pieces of aluminum foil to get it spaced right - then take six layers of the foil and put them together and measure total thickness with a micrometer -simple enough do. Once you know the total thickness as measured with a micrometer - try undefined some shim stock that is the same thickness - check an auto parts store or a mill supply store - then cut a disc out of the shim stop and try it with a dry fit. If it works - then a very small droplet of locket on the shim stock inserted into the arbor hole should hole it in place just fine.

If you are going to keep the revolver so you can switch back and forth from 36 to 44 - ghdn I wouldn't alter the original wedge in any manner. Get a new wedge and fit it to the 35 cal set up. Keeping it tight so it can be tapped out with a brass hammer is not a sin. I hone mine with an oil stone until they can be put in and removed with thumb pressure as the originals were intended to do. A Pietta or even a Uberti does not equal an original Coltl It's well known that cylinder pins can be shorten the repros.

Good luck and enjoy!

45 Dragoon · April 12, 2018, 10:03 PM

The originals were intended to be "driven in" and "driven out" as per Colts own instructions.

This "thumb pressure" install is a "modern" (probably started with the cowboy action crowd) thing for ease of cylinder removal. Fitted correctly, there's no real need to remove the cylinder until cleaning. Thumb pressure simply doesn't impart enough of a load to remove all of the clearances that the open top has between the two assemblies. I would submit that if those that do the "thumb pressure" technique would measure the bbl/cyl clearance and then "smack" the wedge in with a plastic head hammer would have a tighter clearance with the latter (even with the Pietta's that have a more correct arbor length).

Not trying to be difficult, just adhering to Colts instructions (I would think they would know).

In defense of the CAS community, I understand that since they shoot quite mild loads, it's not as detrimental to the revolver as those that shoot heavy loads with heavy bullets. But still, the instructions say what they say, . . . . I'm just saying ! (Lol, see what I did right there? Lol!! You can't write this stuff . . . . . oh . . . . I just did!! Geeez!!! )

Ok, I'll shut up now . . . .

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

**4V50 Gary** · April 12, 2018, 11:18 PM

I'd use shim brass. If you know the thickness, clamp the brass between two pieces of wood. Drill through the wood and through the brass. Now trim the wood/brass to size. Remove the wood and now you have a washer.

AKexpat · April 13, 2018, 08:40 AM

Search for the thickness required:

https://www.superiorwasher.com/categ...AAEgKJePD_BwE#

noelf2 · April 13, 2018, 11:34 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll try to custom fit a brass washer first. Might take a bit of stoning, but should be able to get a perfect fit. I really do need to get a micrometer. Just have a digital caliper now. I don't plan to use the .44 barrel or cylinder in this gun since I'm just trying to make a light loads rabbit/plinking gun out of it, but I don't want to ruin the frame for future mods either.

April 12, 2018, 01:03 PM	#1
noelf2 Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Stuart, VA Posts: 2,473	Fitting a different barrel and cylinder to 1851 Navy I picked up an unfired pietta 1851 Navy .44 brasser a few weeks ago, for a song, and decided I would convert it to .36 caliber with some other spare parts I had around. Already had a cylinder and sheriff barrel in .36, so tried it fit it together. All goes well except the barrel and cylinder bind with the wedge in, and the wedge is really tight. I cut some aluminum foil disks to drop in the barrel's arbor hole, to see if I could fill the obvious gap. After about 6 pieces, it went together and cycles fine. The foil will only last so long, I'm sure, so what should I use as a more permanent spacer? Where can I get metal spacers that are thin enough? Also, should I shape the wedge or leave it that tight? It will come out tapping with a brass punch. __________________ Liberty and freedom often offends those who understand neither.

April 12, 2018, 07:40 PM	#5
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	If it took 6 pieces of aluminum foil to get it spaced right - then take six layers of the foil and put them together and measure total thickness with a micrometer -simple enough do. Once you know the total thickness as measured with a micrometer - try undefined some shim stock that is the same thickness - check an auto parts store or a mill supply store - then cut a disc out of the shim stop and try it with a dry fit. If it works - then a very small droplet of locket on the shim stock inserted into the arbor hole should hole it in place just fine. If you are going to keep the revolver so you can switch back and forth from 36 to 44 - ghdn I wouldn't alter the original wedge in any manner. Get a new wedge and fit it to the 35 cal set up. Keeping it tight so it can be tapped out with a brass hammer is not a sin. I hone mine with an oil stone until they can be put in and removed with thumb pressure as the originals were intended to do. A Pietta or even a Uberti does not equal an original Coltl It's well known that cylinder pins can be shorten the repros. Good luck and enjoy! __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

April 12, 2018, 11:18 PM	#7
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	I'd use shim brass. If you know the thickness, clamp the brass between two pieces of wood. Drill through the wood and through the brass. Now trim the wood/brass to size. Remove the wood and now you have a washer. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

April 13, 2018, 08:40 AM	#8
AKexpat Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2014 Location: SW WA State Posts: 490	Search for the thickness required: https://www.superiorwasher.com/categ...AAEgKJePD_BwE# __________________ To be governed – is to be watched, inspected, directed, indoctrinated, numbered, estimated, regulated, commanded, controlled, law-driven, preached at, spied upon, censured, checked, valued, enrolled – by creatures who have neither the right, nor the wisdom, nor the virtue to do so. - Pierre-Joseph Proudhon

April 13, 2018, 11:34 AM	#9
noelf2 Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Stuart, VA Posts: 2,473	Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll try to custom fit a brass washer first. Might take a bit of stoning, but should be able to get a perfect fit. I really do need to get a micrometer. Just have a digital caliper now. I don't plan to use the .44 barrel or cylinder in this gun since I'm just trying to make a light loads rabbit/plinking gun out of it, but I don't want to ruin the frame for future mods either. __________________ Liberty and freedom often offends those who understand neither.

April 12, 2018, 04:45 PM	#2
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	Leave the wedge and get some washers a little smaller than the arbor. You might have to cut up a feeler gauge to get a perfect fit.

April 12, 2018, 06:25 PM	#3
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Tuco...is that you? And, will it magically shoot cartridges when you are done?

April 12, 2018, 10:03 PM	#6
45 Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2013 Posts: 656	The originals were intended to be "driven in" and "driven out" as per Colts own instructions. This "thumb pressure" install is a "modern" (probably started with the cowboy action crowd) thing for ease of cylinder removal. Fitted correctly, there's no real need to remove the cylinder until cleaning. Thumb pressure simply doesn't impart enough of a load to remove all of the clearances that the open top has between the two assemblies. I would submit that if those that do the "thumb pressure" technique would measure the bbl/cyl clearance and then "smack" the wedge in with a plastic head hammer would have a tighter clearance with the latter (even with the Pietta's that have a more correct arbor length). Not trying to be difficult, just adhering to Colts instructions (I would think they would know). In defense of the CAS community, I understand that since they shoot quite mild loads, it's not as detrimental to the revolver as those that shoot heavy loads with heavy bullets. But still, the instructions say what they say, . . . . I'm just saying ! (Lol, see what I did right there? Lol!! You can't write this stuff . . . . . oh . . . . I just did!! Geeez!!! ) Ok, I'll shut up now . . . . Mike www.goonsgunworks.com Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks