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Old August 18, 2016, 08:19 AM   #26
F. Guffey
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Would some one elaborate on using a pyrometer while using torches.
I have a pyrometer with 8 selections meaning I can test the temperature in 8 different places by rotating the selector. I have pyrometers that use one pickup. I have the point and click type that are sold by Harbor Freight. The most unreliable is the one from Harbor Freight; it is 8 degree off when checking boiling water.

But if someone decided to rig up a tester I would suggest they take the temperature at the shoulder or if they intended to form cases I would suggest they anneal the case down to the point they anticipated the new shoulder would be located.

And as always I suggest if someone is going to start annealing they try to identify rules for annealing, there are rules and they are simple.

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Old August 18, 2016, 08:35 AM   #27
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Small detail; when using a pyrometer while using torches. If the pyrometer is in the flame the temperature reading will indicate the temperature of the flame.

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Old August 18, 2016, 08:47 AM   #28
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IR thermometers can be quite inaccurate measuring reflective surfaces.

If you would like to test one, melt some lead, and skim the dross so it's a mirror and take a reading.
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Old August 18, 2016, 10:54 AM   #29
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I've only annealed brass cases in the past when I was wanting to fire-form them to change them in some major way, such as to an "improved" (like K-Hornet)configuration or to a different caliber(like 6.5JDJ). Doing it then will reduce split necks, et.
Otherwise, I don't bother. Depending on how hot you load them, you're likely to get case head separation before split necks IME.
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Old August 18, 2016, 10:58 AM   #30
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IR thermometers can be quite inaccurate measuring reflective surfaces.

If you would like to test one, melt some lead, and skim the dross so it's a mirror and take a reading.
That does not work for all the same reasons nothing works when reloading. There are variations and differences between specifications and then there are tolerances.

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Old August 18, 2016, 11:04 AM   #31
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Water boils at 212° @ sea level.

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Old August 18, 2016, 04:39 PM   #32
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Water boils at 212° @ sea level.
At 14.7 psi (1 atm), if you raise the pressure you also raise the boiling point.
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Old August 18, 2016, 05:22 PM   #33
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How often to anneal brass

I have to anneal my Weatherby brrass every third shot. As it keeps getting more expensive every other shot might be better.
I set in a large aluminum pan, for the quantity of water that comes up to about eighth inch below shoulder. Watch for brass in mapp gas heat to come up to light cherry and tip the case over into the water.
Need a more up to date technique for right temp etc. I have collapsed a few shoulder when seating the bullet. The shoulder needs a little annealing too though, as I've had a few crack right down to where the shoulder starts.
You can feel the brass when it hardens with your finger and fingernail.
Military ammo shows clearly the brass has been in flame for a period of time being annealed. heavier brass, and trip down line, of burners and quinched.
Many military 5.56 after firing is still soft. The dents and so forth in the neck are easily removed when reloading.
I've only encountered several out of a few hundred that cracked.
Clearly some of the reloads we buy and some of the "once fired brass" was just once fired out of their gun after being reloaded perhaps several times.
I've had several rounds of these rounds out of a few hundred break when fired or upon ejection.
I'm not aware of but a production type piece, of equipment ,for annealing all used 5.56 brass would b a good idea.
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Old August 18, 2016, 07:58 PM   #34
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Quote:
I've only annealed brass cases in the past when I was wanting to fire-form them to change them in some major way, such as to an "improved" (like K-Hornet)configuration or to a different caliber(like 6.5JDJ). Doing it then will reduce split necks, et.
Otherwise, I don't bother. Depending on how hot you load them, you're likely to get case head separation before split necks IME.
Case head separation is cured by minimum shoulder setback.

I know I am a skipping record, I think most annealers fool themselves. Good news is too soft ok as long as it does not go down the case. No enough only someplace in between with split neck eventually.
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Old August 19, 2016, 10:47 AM   #35
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At 14.7 psi (1 atm), if you raise the pressure you also raise the boiling point.
Quote:
1 millibar = 0.0145037738 psi

And if I was making a wild guess and going the other way I would say the boiling point drops about 3° for every pound of pressure reduction. And then there is certified, warranted guaranteed or your money back lead. I have some; problem, most of the companies that stamped the bars are no longer in business.

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Old August 19, 2016, 02:26 PM   #36
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but if I wanted to raise the boiling point of water in my radiator 45 ° I would use a 15 PSI radiator cap. And then there is that other factor; adding anti freeze raises the boiling point of water.

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Old August 19, 2016, 05:26 PM   #37
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You can also boil water at room temperature in a vacuum chamber, about 29 inches of mercury for about 70 deg F.

But it will not help you anneal brass.
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Seams like once we the people give what, at the time, seams like a reasonable inch and "they" take the unreasonable mile we can only get that mile back one inch at a time.

No spelun and grammar is not my specialty. So please don't hurt my sensitive little feelings by teasing me about it.
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