Question about legality and cleaning my Octane 9

[BRJACKET]

As I posted on a previous thread, I just picked up my Octane 9. I have put 150 rounds through it and it performed perfectly. The only problem I had was at one point it started shooting way low right and I found that it had started to unscrew. I tightened it up and it came back in line. After that I check it every few shots to make sure it was tight.

My question is; there is a LGS that is FFL but I doubt is legal for NFA items. They are a small shop and easy to deal with. They have an ultrasonic cleaner and said that I could clean the Octane 9 there. Would I be able to legally leave it there? Or, should I leave the baffles cleaning and keep the tube with me?

Finally, how should I clean the tube (or do I even do this)?

One other question; it seems like I saw a You Tube review of the Octane 9 where they said that the tube could rotate (somehow) to dial in the accuracy. I don't see how this would work. It seems to be the same however it ends up once screwed into place.

Thanks to all.

[Willie Lowman]

You can't leave the baffles with someone else. Possession of part of a silencer = possession of a silencer. If they are going to clean it, you should stay there with it.


You can change the POI by changing the way you put the piston/booster assembly together.

[Sharkbite]

Unless you (the registered owner) are on hand, possession by any other person is not legal

The exception is the manufacturer of the suppressor. You may send it back to them for service without any ATF paperwork

Ive been trying to figure out a way for my local guy to paint one of my cans to match my 308 bolt gun. Unless i stay there while he does it... Its a problem

[dogtown tom]

Willie Lowman You can't leave the baffles with someone else. Possession of part of a silencer = possession of a silencer. If they are going to clean it, you should stay there with it.

Sharkbite Unless you (the registered owner) are on hand, possession by any other person is not legal

Perfectly legal to do so according to ATF.
ATF "suggests" obtaining permission, but it is not required. Leaving a firearm (even NFA) with a gunsmith for repair is not considered a transfer of possession, and does not require a 4473 when the firearm is returned to the owner.

https://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/gun...ve-nfa-firearm

Q: May a licensed gunsmith receive an NFA firearm for purposes of repair?
Yes, for the sole purpose of repair and subsequent return to its owner. It is suggested that the owner obtain permission from ATF for the transfer by completing and mailing ATF Form 5 (5320.5) to the NFA Branch and receive approval prior to the delivery. The gunsmith should do the same prior to returning the firearm.

Only the face of the form needs to be completed in each instance. ATF Forms 5 may be obtained from the Bureau of ATF, NFA Branch. ATF Form 5 is also available on the internet at www.atf.gov

Understand that this FAQ answer was written several years ago when NFA forms were being approved in a matter of days, not the current 6-12 months.

[Sharkbite]

So... Does the gunsmith need to hold a SOT? Or can it be any FFL holder?

This stuff is SO stupid and confusing

[Theohazard]

Originally Posted by BRJACKET

The only problem I had was at one point it started shooting way low right and I found that it had started to unscrew. I tightened it up and it came back in line. After that I check it every few shots to make sure it was tight.

This can be an issue with most pistol silencers: if they unscrew while you're shooting you can get baffle strikes that can destroy the suppressor. Luckily, the Octane is strong enough that it can survive a few light baffle strikes and come out completely unscathed (don't ask me how I know this ). Whatever you do, don't use a crush washer or lock washer or anything like that. The best thing I've found is a single drop of blue Loctite: put a small drop on your barrel threads and let it completely dry without screwing on the suppressor. Then when you do mount the suppressor, it will be tight but still fairly easy to remove. And it's still a good idea to check periodically while you're shooting.

Originally Posted by BRJACKET

My question is; there is a LGS that is FFL but I doubt is legal for NFA items. They are a small shop and easy to deal with. They have an ultrasonic cleaner and said that I could clean the Octane 9 there. Would I be able to legally leave it there? Or, should I leave the baffles cleaning and keep the tube with me?

I'm fairly certain the FFL would need to be a class 2 SOT (NFA manufacturer) for you to leave it with them. But I'm not 100% sure. That never really came up at the SOT where I worked, even though we were a class 2 SOT.

I just clean my Octane like a normal gun. If it's really dirty, I'll soak the baffles in solvent overnight. I don't shoot much .22 through it, so lead build-up isn't much of an issue for me. But the lead build-up should stay mostly inside the baffles, and you could use the dip (1/2 hydrogen peroxide and 1/2 white vinagar) to dissolve the lead. Just be VERY careful not to let the dissolved lead solution touch your skin, it's highly toxic and the lead will absorb straight into your skin, whereas normally you need to breath or eat lead for it to get into your system. Also, make sure not to use the dip on any aluminum parts, just clean those normally.

Originally Posted by BRJACKET

One other question; it seems like I saw a You Tube review of the Octane 9 where they said that the tube could rotate (somehow) to dial in the accuracy. I don't see how this would work. It seems to be the same however it ends up once screwed into place.

This only works if you're using the LID and not the fixed barrel mount. When you take your Octane apart, notice the star pattern on the LID piston - it's on the opposite side of the piston from the threads. This star pattern lines up with notches on the inside of the tube. You can change the way the notches line up and therefore which way the suppressor is oriented. But don't bother trying to do this by disassembling it, there's a much easier way: When it's assembled and mounted on your pistol, pull forward on the suppressor; this compresses the LID spring and disengages the star pattern on the piston from the notches on the tube. Then turn the suppressor to where you want it and then let go.

It will stay like this until the next time you disassemble the suppressor. So, after putting it back together, just mount the suppressor on the gun, pull forward on it and rotate it where you want it again.

[Theohazard]

Originally Posted by Sharkbite

This stuff is SO stupid and confusing

Tell me about it! I worked at an 07/02 FFL/SOT for two years and even managed there for a year, and I still don't know all the rules.

[Sharkbite]

Theo

Thanks for the tutorial on aligning an Octane. Ive got a 45 on the way so its cool to learn about em

[Theohazard]

No prob! Yeah, I think the Octane is the best pistol silencer on the market; when I worked at that SOT I did a lot of research and played with a lot of different silencers before I made my choice. And I sure don't regret it.

And sometimes what makes the Octane stand out is just the little things. Besides the stronger and more serviceable baffle design, the Octane just has a smarter design than many other silencers. Take the Ti-Rant for example. Now, the Ti-Rant is a very good can, but why do they make you use a tool to get the endcap off? Both the Ti-Rant and the Octane can have their LIDs removed without tools, but on the Octane you can then use the star pattern on the piston to unscrew the endcap, but on the Ti-Rant you need a separate tool.

Also, all the pistons for the Octane are simply thread-pattern specific, not caliber specific also (I could give you my Octane 9's 1/2x28 piston and you could use it on your Octane 45 to shoot 9mm, for example). But the pistons for the Ti-Rant 9 don't interchange with the Ti-Rant 45. Also, AAC doesn't offer any 5/8x24 mounts for using the Ti-Rant on a 300 Blackout, but that's probably because they want you to buy their 762-SDN-6 for 300 Blackout instead of using the Ti-Rant.

Also, it's nice that the Octane and the Osprey's pistons are exactly the same, that makes it just that much easier to find extra pistons.

[BRJACKET]

Thanks again for the great information. I will try the locktite method but mostly remember to keep checking to make sure it is screwed on tightly. Thanks also for the warning about touching the fouled solution. Idiot me would just grab everything out with no protection.

How do you clean the tube? Do you just use a brush and something like MPro7cleaning solution? Or should it be something milder?

[Theohazard]

No problem! Yeah, just clean the tube like you would clean any aluminum-framed gun. Also, using a metal treatment on the baffles like Froglube or Militech will make it easier to clean the next time. I guess you could treat the tube also, but I didn't bother.

If you decide to use "the dip" to clean the lead off the baffles, be VERY careful. It produces lead acetate, and a lot of people don't use the dip because of how toxic lead acetate is. And it's also VERY bad on aluminum.

[BRJACKET]

I use militec on my guns. I wasn't sure if it would be good for the baffles so thanks again. I will treat them after they are cleaned. How often do you clean your octane? Sorry if you have already told me.

[Theohazard]

I clean it every several hundred rounds, which is far more often than it needs unless you're shooting lead through it (and I don't shoot much lead through mine).

The main thing is that you don't want the LID to get so dirty it freezes up, because then your gun will probably malfunction. I use Froglube to lubricate the LID piston and spring to keep them from seizing up. Some people use Lithium grease and that's supposed to work better. But I use Froglube on all my guns so that's what I have, and it works pretty well on my Octane.

Don't worry so much about cleaning very often, unless you're shooting lots of .22 or unjacketed lead bullets. If you're just shooting regular jacketed 9mm, you're mostly going to just have carbon build-up. And it takes a long time for the carbon to build up, and even then it's not a big deal, it will just take longer to clean it. Keep in mind that there are plenty of pistol silencers out there where you can't even take them apart to clean the baffles.

I had a customer at our old shop who had an Osprey .45 on his Glock 21. The Osprey's baffles can't be taken apart, but you can can still take the LID apart. But he didn't know you were supposed to clean the LID and the whole thing was seized up with carbon. I took it apart and cleaned it for him, but the interesting thing is that he said his Glock 21 was still functioning just fine. I'm guessing the combination of the Osprey's light weight and the Glock 21's (relatively) high recoil made it still function without a working LID.