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July 30, 2020, 07:00 AM | #26 |
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686 Plus or GP100 I guess you heard that enough.... My advice is to inspect both closely before purchasing... QC is a thing of the past
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July 30, 2020, 09:24 AM | #27 |
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If you want to shoot IPSC and 9mm, there are really only 2 choices.
S&W 929 or Ruger 5066. If you decide to go the .357 route, a 627 S&W? I shoot a 627 with short colt brass in USPSA revolver. If IPSC wasn't in the mix, I always have one suggestion for a first revolver (and for the "Everybody should have at least one") revolver: K frame size 6 shot 357 Magnum. 4" with adjustable sights. Ruger, S&W, whatever. Shoot anything from cowboy bunny fart loads to full house 357. Personally I'm partial to older pinned and recessed Smith and Wessons. A nice Model 19 makes me smile. |
July 30, 2020, 10:56 AM | #28 |
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Like most others that got into reloading I started with a .357. Easy to reload in powder puff .38 wad cutters up to powerhouse 170gr.-180 gr hunting loads. Lots of room to experiment Cast bullets help keep the cost down and no scrambling around for the brass. Good luck.
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July 31, 2020, 11:24 AM | #29 |
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Well live and learn I was not aware of the Canadian law on barrel length. Interesting stuff. I guess part of what you get will involve cost. Personally I like the S&W older guns and blued steel but that's just my taste. I also like the S&W Model 19 or the 586 and when a pocket book permits the Models 27 and 28 are both nice heavier frame guns. I also like the Ruger revolvers so what this comes down to is how any given revolver feels in your hands since after all this will be your gun and your wallet.
Ron |
August 8, 2020, 11:32 AM | #30 | |
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Quote:
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August 9, 2020, 07:16 AM | #31 |
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Join Date: April 28, 2013
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Interesting, I’ve never heard of throat erosion in a revolver from shooting .38sp in a .357 mag.
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August 9, 2020, 10:44 AM | #32 |
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Join Date: April 14, 2000
Location: Colorado
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Not throat erosion, chamber erosion. Each chamber will develop a bit of erosion at the end of the .38 brass due to gases eroding the steel over a period of time.You can see this as a ring and feel it with a pick. Then when you shoot high pressure .357 the brass will flow (fire forming) into the eroded area of the chamber and cause .357 brass difficult to extract. It will take a lot of .38s to cause this due to their low pressure, but can be remedied by careful use of a mop and paste with fine grit to polish the chambers.
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August 9, 2020, 02:12 PM | #33 |
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Join Date: August 31, 2013
Posts: 525
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It needs some trigger work to lighten it up, but I love my Chiappa Rhino with a 4" barrel. It has no muzzle climb. Strangely, it conceals quite well.
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August 10, 2020, 05:30 AM | #34 |
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Oops, sorry my bad, yes I meant chamber silly me. I’m going to have to check some of my older revolvers with higher round counts to see if any of this is happening.
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August 10, 2020, 10:48 AM | #35 |
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I think you will find this to be a problem in .357s if a lot of .38s have been fired. In my case the .357 brass stuck only if I was shooting maxed out loads.
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August 11, 2020, 11:42 PM | #36 |
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Join Date: September 5, 2017
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If you have very large hands look at the N frame S&W model 27. I never have owned an N frame because they just felt a bit too large for my hands. If you like how they feel then that opens up other calibers to choose from such as .41Mag, .44Special, .44Mag, .45 Colt, .45ACP and then the hotter ones.
You may not be impressed with any of the triggers on new production guns. If you go to the range where they are competing I'm sure most shooters will love to let you check out the feel of some smoothed out revolvers. I'm partial to the older 586/686 but was amazed how smooth a GP100 can be made. If you are serious about competing and want to be competitive, now is the time to listen to those who do compete so you pick the right model the first time. Otherwise you may be handicapping yourself. Find out now if you will want 6, 7 or 8 rounds in the cylinder and why. |
August 12, 2020, 05:15 AM | #37 |
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Join Date: April 28, 2013
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Probably the best revolver I ever owned was my S&W 627. What a sweet shooter, accurate as heck and just an all around beautiful gun. Unfortunately I accidentally double charge an already hot load of Titegroup and blew the top of the cylinder and top strap off of it. Luckily no one hurt other than a scratch on my forehead where part of it bounced off my head. I no longer use Titegroup and even after over 30 years of safe hand loading learned a lesson the hard way about being vigilant. If using a progressive loader and you have a malfunction, take all the rounds out and set them aside and deal with them later, don’t just put them back in rotation the way you think you took them out. Plus I no longer use a progressive, strictly my Lee Classic Cast turret for pistol.
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August 22, 2020, 12:15 PM | #38 |
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Have done a little bit of shopping around and was able to handle a .357 Magnum revolver labelled "ALFA Stainless, Model 3551C", apparently made in the Czech Republic. Does anyone here have experience with these revolvers, specifically with regard to long-term reliability? The gun feels OK, if somewhat heavier in the hand than my S&W M&P, although this is probably a matter of attaining familiarity. Single-action trigger feels very, very nice. Double-action is passable, possibly "heavy", but I have no other recent revolver experience against which to compare.
That was all the shop had in at the time. I will try to handle a couple of other brands before committing to a sale. |
August 22, 2020, 12:51 PM | #39 | |
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Quote:
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August 22, 2020, 01:10 PM | #40 |
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Revolver choice
Do you have the need for a .357Mag? If not, do not get it.
If you have no need for a .38Splc +P you do not need a heavy frame revolver. Look at K frame Smiths. Good balance and action is simple to slick up.
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August 22, 2020, 08:03 PM | #41 |
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What is the used handgun market look like up there ? A Ruger Security Six in stainless is an excellent choice.
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August 22, 2020, 09:23 PM | #42 |
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pathdoc: Have done a little bit of shopping around and was able to handle a .357 Magnum revolver labelled "ALFA Stainless, Model 3551C", apparently made in the Czech Republic. Does anyone here have experience with these revolvers, specifically with regard to long-term reliability? The gun feels OK, if somewhat heavier in the hand than my S&W M&P, although this is probably a matter of attaining familiarity. Single-action trigger feels very, very nice. Double-action is passable, possibly "heavy", but I have no other recent revolver experience against which to compare.
That was all the shop had in at the time. I will try to handle a couple of other brands before committing to a sale." It didn't take but one google search to confirm you don't want one of these. There have been a number of reviews. This was the only one I looked at. https://www.gun-tests.com/handguns/r...zech-import-2/ |
August 23, 2020, 12:49 AM | #43 | |
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Join Date: June 19, 2010
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Quote:
Just be patient and wait for the right S&W or Ruger. As I said before, both companies have had their struggles with QC over the last several years, but both have reputations for excellent customer service and will generally do a great job of resolving any issues that arise. |
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August 23, 2020, 04:07 PM | #44 | |
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Suggestions for a first revolver invited.
Quote:
Ruger GP-100 4” or longer if you prefer. It will live a boringly long & lazy life on a steady diet of .38 specials & would live forever stout .357s. Personally in your shoes, I’d search for a Wiley Capp GP. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Last edited by hseII; August 23, 2020 at 04:16 PM. |
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August 24, 2020, 07:56 PM | #45 |
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Colt night cobra. 6 shot. Super great trigger. Good weight. Not too light. Good sights. No snag grip. 500-600 price range before the C
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August 25, 2020, 06:19 AM | #46 |
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The OP lives in Canada so a snub is no bueno. Minimum barrel length is 4.17”.
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