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September 4, 2013, 04:30 PM | #1 |
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Jailbreaking a suppressor
Hey guys/gals,
My buddy just received his suppressor back from Matt @ Stalking Rhino Industries where is was jailbroken and the baffles stripped and re-annodized. In this video we start off by shooting it for a sound comparison so when he is ready for a re-core we can compare the sound from the DTA baffles to the SRI baffles. Then the video goes to a table top review of the jailbreak and a takedown/close look of the can. Hope you enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hScV6dd51RY |
September 4, 2013, 06:25 PM | #2 |
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Great video. My Trident will get that done to it someday.
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September 5, 2013, 07:09 PM | #3 |
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How long does it take to have the can jailbroke and returned?
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September 5, 2013, 10:24 PM | #4 |
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OK, I admit it, I know what jairbreaking is and I know what a suppressor is, but Jailbreaking a Suppressor? I had no ideal what was going on. Google time, simple thing, taking a sealed suppressor and converting it to a type that you can take apart. Now I don't feel so dumb
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Ron James |
September 6, 2013, 07:39 AM | #5 |
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You have to wonder: "why don't they just make them so you can take them apart?" I am convinced that the real reason the manufacture seals the suppressor is because if you found out what was actually inside that metal tube you would realize that you've been ripped-off for about $600.
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September 6, 2013, 08:45 AM | #6 |
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1+^^^^^^^^^ yep... google oil filter silencers and you will come across some that is a legal barrel attachment between the gun and oil filter canister ( tax stamp required) but is only about $100.
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September 6, 2013, 10:01 AM | #7 |
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There are several reasons that manufacturers make sealed cans you can't take apart:
1) A sealed can is generally cheaper to make 2) A sealed can is generally quieter 3) A sealed can is generally lighter 4) You don't really need to to take apart some cans: center-fire rifle cans, for example. Or even center-fire pistol cans, providing you're not shooting really dirty or non-jacketed lead ammo through it (though I prefer serviceable pistol cans). The main ones than actually NEED to be taken apart are .22 cans, and if you notice the trend in the market is for serviceable .22 cans; there are very few sealed .22 cans on the market these days.
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September 6, 2013, 04:09 PM | #8 |
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^
Old thought process Now all top tier centerfire pistol can manufactures build cans to me user serviceable. This also allows sub caliber use. Example: Buy the SWR Octane45 and you can shoot 22, 9mm, 40, 45, 38spl, 357mag, 44spl, 300blk out subsonic, and 308 subsonic. Its also full auto rated and you can take apart an clean it. Whats not to like? |
September 6, 2013, 11:34 PM | #9 | ||
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Quote:
The new thought process is to make better baffle designs that are both quiet AND serviceable. I have an Octane 9 HD and I love it; it's one of the only center-fire pistol suppressors that can be used with lead bullets and .22 rimfire. But the Octane is super quiet because of SWR's CTA baffle design, not because it's serviceable. It would be quieter (in theory) and lighter if it was sealed. Quote:
And you don't need it to be serviceable for sub-caliber use. You just need it to be serviceable if you want to shoot non-jacketed lead bullets or .22 through it.
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September 7, 2013, 09:25 AM | #10 |
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Personally, I don't buy anything gun related that I can't take apart. I don't own a suppressor, yet, but having one that can't be disassembled takes all the fun out of it!
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September 7, 2013, 09:49 AM | #11 |
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Skans, I know exactly how you feel.
Or I did till I cracked open my Spectre after 1000 rounds. Half had been on a pistol, half had been on my buddy's F/A trigger pack 10/22. Lead fouling, lead fouling everywhere! But that's why it's designed to be taken apart, right? Right. I have tried picking, wire brushing, wire wheels on my Dremel, Hoppe's 9 soak, and the infamous Dip. Haven't had the gumption to make a batch of Ed's Red yet to try it. You know what works the best? The Dip (image owned by Disney) For the love of God, if you are going to use the Dip, make sure there is a place local to you that will dispose of hazardous chemicals and don't breathe the fumes. Also, don't use the Dip on anything other than stainless parts. Actually, you probably just shouldn't use the Dip.
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September 7, 2013, 10:03 AM | #12 |
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Willie, I read that a 50/50 mix of vinegar/deionized water in an ultrasonic will remove lead.
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September 7, 2013, 10:17 AM | #13 |
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Deleted. Double post.
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0331: "Accuracy by volume." |
September 7, 2013, 10:19 AM | #14 |
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Willie, try using a torch and just melting the lead off your Spectre's baffles.
I've never tried the dip, it's just too toxic for my tastes.
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September 7, 2013, 10:39 AM | #15 |
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Theohazard, I wonder how much lead fumes would be generated by melting with a torch compared to the lead acetate fumes from the Dip.
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"9mm has a very long history of being a pointy little bullet moving quickly" --Sevens |
September 7, 2013, 01:48 PM | #16 |
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That's a good question. Now you have me worried. I would think that melting lead at a low enough temperature wouldn't be too much of an issue; after all, plenty of people cast their own bullets. But now I want to hear what someone who has some chemistry knowledge says about it.
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September 8, 2013, 10:40 PM | #17 |
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Ed's Red didn't do anything to clean my silencers. The dip really does a good job on the lead though. Eats the crap out of aluminum too.
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September 9, 2013, 07:28 AM | #18 |
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You would think that, at least with the steel/aluminum parts, you could simply heat them up to melt the lead off.
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September 9, 2013, 06:33 PM | #19 |
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So, how long does SRI take to turn around a suppressor for jail break service?
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