GP100 Trigger

drmajor · January 2, 2018, 04:26 PM

My GP100 (357) and the double action is pretty heavy. Single is OK..

What spring mainly effects the double action..

Has to stay reliable...

5whiskey · January 2, 2018, 04:55 PM

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...it-ruger-gp100

This is just one example. The mainspring will give you greatest reduction. For reliability I personally would not go lighter than a 12lbs mainspring on a designated carry piece unless I tested it extensively (100+ rounds) with my chosen carry ammo and had zero light primer strikes.

UncleEd · January 2, 2018, 05:42 PM

I hesitate to recommend a lighter spring, at least for now.

I suggest you do a lot of double action shooting and see if your hand, fingers develop more motor strength.

You might find that after a few weeks and several sessions, live and dry, that that trigger no longer seems so heavy.

I suspect you have not done a lot of DA shooting to date. If I'm wrong, I apologize.

However, I'm fully aware that GP-100s, just like Smith & Wessons, can vary from gun to gun.

Just an aside but in the FBI's revolver days using K-frame Smith & Wessons, the agency I believe wanted its agents to DA pull a trigger rapidly about 35 times in as many seconds with factory springs.

SonOfScubaDiver · January 2, 2018, 06:31 PM

If it's anything like my SP101 was out of the box, yeah, it's heavy. I bought a spring kit and haven't had any issues with it. It was easy to install too. I can't remember if the kit was from Wolff or Apex, but it had three different springs in it. I tried all three and settled on the 9lb one.

Nathan · January 2, 2018, 06:36 PM

… And this is the challenge with double action revolver's. A lighter mainspring makes the action ligher but it also makes it less reliable. What you need is somebody to slick up the action for you. .. or of course, you can do it yourself.

K_Mac · January 2, 2018, 06:57 PM

SonOfScubaDiver the trigger in a GP100 is not as heavy as the SP101.

I slicked up the action on my GP by shooting it. It is much smoother now than when new several years ago. It may be that my hand is a bit stronger too. With my beat up, arthritic hands I doubt it.

hodaka · January 2, 2018, 07:56 PM

I put the 9# Midway kit in mine and it made it a lot easier for double action. It also made it too light for 100% reliable strikes with some brands of primers. I only use Federals for this pistol and it works well with them and the pull is much nicer.

Rangerrich99 · January 2, 2018, 08:01 PM

According to J. Miculek installing a lighter trigger return spring reduces felt trigger weight more than a reduction in the pull weight of the mainspring. It seems to be true at least in both of my GP-100s. I dropped the trigger return spring weight to 8 lb. which made a significant difference in the felt pull weight.

Slimjim9 · January 2, 2018, 10:08 PM

I have used both the Wilson and Wolff kits on two GP100s. I used the 10lb springs for both and have had no issues with light strikes. This got the GP100 DA triggers as good or slightly better than my stock LCR trigger so I felt no need to risk lighter springs

reddog81 · January 2, 2018, 10:12 PM

Both the trigger return spring and mainspring are compressed while pulling the trigger. I'd buy the spring kit and test out the different combinations. It doesn't cost much money and has a fairly significant impact on the trigger pull. Make sure to extensively test out the functioning of any ammo if you go down in the mainspring.

Don P · January 3, 2018, 06:28 AM

Both springs will effect trigger pull. A 12 lb. hammer spring along with a 10 lb. trigger return spring and some internal polishing should make for a nice carry revolver with proven reliability. As stated make sure YOUR revolver will ignite the ammo you will be carrying.

T. O'Heir · January 3, 2018, 12:38 PM

GP and all new triggers are heavy due to frivolous law suits. All new firearms require a trigger job.
Fortunately, GP internal parts are SS and polish easily. (The GP is also one of the easiest revolvers to disassemble and work on. No special tools required either.) Just doing that and clipping 1/4 turn off the main spring will help. It's better to polish the mating parts(including the sides of those parts) and change the mainspring though.
Remember that smooth is far more important than the weight.
Wolff Springs has a Shooters Pak containing 9, 10 and 12 pound reduced power hammer springs and 8 and 10 pound trigger return springs for $10.50. The factory trigger return spring is 12 pounds.

UncleEd · January 3, 2018, 06:31 PM

QUOTE T. O'Heir GP and all new triggers are heavy due to frivolous law suits. All new firearms require a trigger job. UNQUOTE

A statement of dubious accuracy.

L2R · January 3, 2018, 07:40 PM

If you take it apart, put it in a big ziplock bag before you ease the internals out from the frame.

Unless you want to start the Easter egg hunt early for tiny parts.

You know why I am suggesting this

Viper225 · January 4, 2018, 02:18 AM

You will need to work on the Hammer Spring Strut. Start with a file to get all the rough spots taken care of before polishing it.
A shim kit will help some. I recommend only putting the shims on the Hammer Dog and Trigger. The Hammer is a real pain to get assembled with shims without a fitted Slave Pin.
I recommend getting a set of the quick attach drill bits. A set normally has 5 or 6 sizes. That should cover all the pins sizes in both a GP100 and SP101. Hand turn the drill bits in the holes to remove any burs. If I get serious I will polish out the hole the Trigger Latch spring goes in. I also polish out the sides on the Hammer Dog on a flat stone. It must be a stamped part, as it is never flat.
You may still be able to locate an article doing an internet search on doing a GP100 trigger job.
I make up sanding sticks using tongue depressor size craft sticks. Glue wet or dry sand paper on a couple inches of the end. You will probably want around 180 grit and some finer paper probably 300 or 400 grit. I use them to slick up internal edges.
You can really improve the trigger on a GP100.
I use the Wolfe Spring Kits. Do not go too lite as was said above. You can get away with a liter trigger on a match gun if you use Federal Primers. I want my GP100 reliable with all primers.

Bob R

5whiskey · January 4, 2018, 12:46 PM

Quote:

You will need to work on the Hammer Spring Strut. Start with a file to get all the rough spots taken care of before polishing it.
A shim kit will help some. I recommend only putting the shims on the Hammer Dog and Trigger. The Hammer is a real pain to get assembled with shims without a fitted Slave Pin.
I recommend getting a set of the quick attach drill bits. A set normally has 5 or 6 sizes. That should cover all the pins sizes in both a GP100 and SP101. Hand turn the drill bits in the holes to remove any burs. If I get serious I will polish out the hole the Trigger Latch spring goes in. I also polish out the sides on the Hammer Dog on a flat stone. It must be a stamped part, as it is never flat.
You may still be able to locate an article doing an internet search on doing a GP100 trigger job.
I make up sanding sticks using tongue depressor size craft sticks. Glue wet or dry sand paper on a couple inches of the end. You will probably want around 180 grit and some finer paper probably 300 or 400 grit. I use them to slick up internal edges.

I was going to suggest the hammer spring strut. It won't really "lighten" the trigger but it will make it WAY smoother if yours is rough. I know the Security Six hammer strut can be improved a good bit, but no experience with a GP.

roaddog28 · January 4, 2018, 07:38 PM

I suggest taking the revolver apart smoothing the sharp edges and mating surfaces with a fine sanding stone or very fine sand paper. Also make sure you flush the parts good to insure they are clean. Light oil is good for assembly but don't use to much oil. After you put the revolver together if your trigger is still heavy then you can try the springs, shims to get the trigger better. But don't go too light on the springs or you might not get reliable strikes on your primers.
Good luck

amd6547 · January 4, 2018, 09:12 PM

When I was getting ready to buy my 3” GP100,I did a lot of reading about poor triggers and how to do a trigger job.
Imagine my surprise to find the trigger on my GP100 rivals the trigger on my well used S&W Model 15, my benchmark for a great revolver trigger.
Just lucky, I guess.

rclark · January 4, 2018, 10:07 PM

Mine has a good trigger... Not gritty. Breaks clean. Can't feel much/if any creep... Problem is it is just way to heavy. No where close to 2#.

Road_Clam · January 5, 2018, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drmajor

My GP100 (357) and the double action is pretty heavy. Single is OK..

What spring mainly effects the double action..

Has to stay reliable...

Here's a good post on my trigger experience with my GP100 :

https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...ighlight=gp100

Scroll down to post #23 for my final spring combo.

Slimjim9 · January 5, 2018, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rclark

Mine has a good trigger... Not gritty. Breaks clean. Can't feel much/if any creep... Problem is it is just way to heavy. No where close to 2#.

Please tell me that's a typo. You want a two pound trigger on a revolver?!? :-O

rclark · January 5, 2018, 09:13 PM

Absolutely. ~2# single action pull. It is what I found that works very well for me over the years. It's not to light, yet not to heavy. Just right (for me). Have my gunsmith set up all my favorite Single Actions that way.

UncleEd · January 5, 2018, 10:39 PM

RClark,

Two pound SA?

Do you have a trigger pull gauge?

Maybe that's just what your gunsmith tells
you because that's what you asked for.

rclark · January 7, 2018, 05:11 PM

I do have a gauge. His and mine 'match'.

I do believe he sets most of his customers at 3# (if I remember right) that come in for a tune-up, but since he and I also shoot together sometimes, he knows what I like. He's also turned barrels for me as needed on the fixed sighted guns. This is at the range, so we can turn, test, turn until perfect with my loads. Again it works for 'me'.

I should get gauge and check to see what this new GP100 trigger pull is come to think of it! {edited} Checked. This trigger pull is off the scale. My scale only goes to 72oz and the trigger would not break.

jimbob86 · January 7, 2018, 07:05 PM

Quote:

I suggest you do a lot of double action shooting and see if your hand, fingers develop more motor strength.

Dry firing the hell out of it will help your finger strength. It will also smooth out the action some.....

The Russians made a GREAT training aid for strengthening fingers for better DA pull:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/735566334

January 2, 2018, 04:26 PM	#1
drmajor Member Join Date: March 15, 2008 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 72	GP100 Trigger My GP100 (357) and the double action is pretty heavy. Single is OK.. What spring mainly effects the double action.. Has to stay reliable...

January 2, 2018, 06:57 PM	#6
K_Mac Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2010 Posts: 1,850	SonOfScubaDiver the trigger in a GP100 is not as heavy as the SP101. I slicked up the action on my GP by shooting it. It is much smoother now than when new several years ago. It may be that my hand is a bit stronger too. With my beat up, arthritic hands I doubt it. __________________ "Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain and most fools do." Benjamin Franklin

January 2, 2018, 10:08 PM	#9
Slimjim9 Senior Member Join Date: February 5, 2015 Posts: 783	I have used both the Wilson and Wolff kits on two GP100s. I used the 10lb springs for both and have had no issues with light strikes. This got the GP100 DA triggers as good or slightly better than my stock LCR trigger so I felt no need to risk lighter springs __________________ Who said anything about safe? ‘Course he isn’t safe. But he’s good.

January 3, 2018, 06:28 AM	#11
Don P Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 2005 Location: Swamp dweller Posts: 6,187	Both springs will effect trigger pull. A 12 lb. hammer spring along with a 10 lb. trigger return spring and some internal polishing should make for a nice carry revolver with proven reliability. As stated make sure *YOUR* revolver will ignite the ammo you will be carrying. __________________ *NRA Life Member, NRA Chief Range Safety Officer, NRA Certified Pistol Instructor,, USPSA & Steel Challange NROI Range Officer, ICORE Range Officer, ,MAG 40 Graduate* *As you are, I once was, As I am, You will be.*

January 3, 2018, 12:38 PM	#12
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	GP and all new triggers are heavy due to frivolous law suits. All new firearms require a trigger job. Fortunately, GP internal parts are SS and polish easily. (The GP is also one of the easiest revolvers to disassemble and work on. No special tools required either.) Just doing that and clipping 1/4 turn off the main spring will help. It's better to polish the mating parts(including the sides of those parts) and change the mainspring though. Remember that smooth is far more important than the weight. Wolff Springs has a Shooters Pak containing 9, 10 and 12 pound reduced power hammer springs and 8 and 10 pound trigger return springs for $10.50. The factory trigger return spring is 12 pounds. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

January 2, 2018, 04:55 PM	#2
5whiskey Senior Member Join Date: October 23, 2005 Location: US Posts: 3,652	https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...it-ruger-gp100 This is just one example. The mainspring will give you greatest reduction. For reliability I personally would not go lighter than a 12lbs mainspring on a designated carry piece unless I tested it extensively (100+ rounds) with my chosen carry ammo and had zero light primer strikes.

January 2, 2018, 05:42 PM	#3
UncleEd Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2013 Location: N. Georgia Posts: 1,150	I hesitate to recommend a lighter spring, at least for now. I suggest you do a lot of double action shooting and see if your hand, fingers develop more motor strength. You might find that after a few weeks and several sessions, live and dry, that that trigger no longer seems so heavy. I suspect you have not done a lot of DA shooting to date. If I'm wrong, I apologize. However, I'm fully aware that GP-100s, just like Smith & Wessons, can vary from gun to gun. Just an aside but in the FBI's revolver days using K-frame Smith & Wessons, the agency I believe wanted its agents to DA pull a trigger rapidly about 35 times in as many seconds with factory springs.

January 2, 2018, 06:31 PM	#4
SonOfScubaDiver Senior Member Join Date: October 1, 2017 Posts: 391	If it's anything like my SP101 was out of the box, yeah, it's heavy. I bought a spring kit and haven't had any issues with it. It was easy to install too. I can't remember if the kit was from Wolff or Apex, but it had three different springs in it. I tried all three and settled on the 9lb one.

January 2, 2018, 06:36 PM	#5
Nathan Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2001 Posts: 6,328	… And this is the challenge with double action revolver's. A lighter mainspring makes the action ligher but it also makes it less reliable. What you need is somebody to slick up the action for you. .. or of course, you can do it yourself.

January 2, 2018, 07:56 PM	#7
hodaka Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2006 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,010	I put the 9# Midway kit in mine and it made it a lot easier for double action. It also made it too light for 100% reliable strikes with some brands of primers. I only use Federals for this pistol and it works well with them and the pull is much nicer.

January 2, 2018, 08:01 PM	#8
Rangerrich99 Senior Member Join Date: March 20, 2014 Location: Kinda near Phoenix, AZ Posts: 1,254	According to J. Miculek installing a lighter trigger return spring reduces felt trigger weight more than a reduction in the pull weight of the mainspring. It seems to be true at least in both of my GP-100s. I dropped the trigger return spring weight to 8 lb. which made a significant difference in the felt pull weight.

January 2, 2018, 10:12 PM	#10
reddog81 Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Both the trigger return spring and mainspring are compressed while pulling the trigger. I'd buy the spring kit and test out the different combinations. It doesn't cost much money and has a fairly significant impact on the trigger pull. Make sure to extensively test out the functioning of any ammo if you go down in the mainspring.

January 3, 2018, 06:31 PM	#13
UncleEd Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2013 Location: N. Georgia Posts: 1,150	QUOTE T. O'Heir GP and all new triggers are heavy due to frivolous law suits. All new firearms require a trigger job. UNQUOTE A statement of dubious accuracy.

January 3, 2018, 07:40 PM	#14
L2R Senior Member Join Date: November 5, 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 358	If you take it apart, put it in a big ziplock bag before you ease the internals out from the frame. Unless you want to start the Easter egg hunt early for tiny parts. You know why I am suggesting this __________________ L2R

January 4, 2018, 02:18 AM	#15
Viper225 Senior Member Join Date: September 20, 2009 Location: SC Missouri Posts: 663	You will need to work on the Hammer Spring Strut. Start with a file to get all the rough spots taken care of before polishing it. A shim kit will help some. I recommend only putting the shims on the Hammer Dog and Trigger. The Hammer is a real pain to get assembled with shims without a fitted Slave Pin. I recommend getting a set of the quick attach drill bits. A set normally has 5 or 6 sizes. That should cover all the pins sizes in both a GP100 and SP101. Hand turn the drill bits in the holes to remove any burs. If I get serious I will polish out the hole the Trigger Latch spring goes in. I also polish out the sides on the Hammer Dog on a flat stone. It must be a stamped part, as it is never flat. You may still be able to locate an article doing an internet search on doing a GP100 trigger job. I make up sanding sticks using tongue depressor size craft sticks. Glue wet or dry sand paper on a couple inches of the end. You will probably want around 180 grit and some finer paper probably 300 or 400 grit. I use them to slick up internal edges. You can really improve the trigger on a GP100. I use the Wolfe Spring Kits. Do not go too lite as was said above. You can get away with a liter trigger on a match gun if you use Federal Primers. I want my GP100 reliable with all primers. Bob R

January 4, 2018, 07:38 PM	#17
roaddog28 Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2009 Location: Escondido, CA Posts: 961	I suggest taking the revolver apart smoothing the sharp edges and mating surfaces with a fine sanding stone or very fine sand paper. Also make sure you flush the parts good to insure they are clean. Light oil is good for assembly but don't use to much oil. After you put the revolver together if your trigger is still heavy then you can try the springs, shims to get the trigger better. But don't go too light on the springs or you might not get reliable strikes on your primers. Good luck

January 4, 2018, 09:12 PM	#18
amd6547 Senior Member Join Date: May 27, 2006 Posts: 2,313	When I was getting ready to buy my 3” GP100,I did a lot of reading about poor triggers and how to do a trigger job. Imagine my surprise to find the trigger on my GP100 rivals the trigger on my well used S&W Model 15, my benchmark for a great revolver trigger. Just lucky, I guess. __________________ The past is gone...the future may never happen. Be Here Now.

January 4, 2018, 10:07 PM	#19
rclark Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2009 Location: Butte, MT Posts: 2,620	Mine has a good trigger... Not gritty. Breaks clean. Can't feel much/if any creep... Problem is it is just way to heavy. No where close to 2#. __________________ A clinger and deplorable, MAGA, and life NRA member. When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns. Single Action .45 Colt (Sometimes colloquially referred to by its alias as the .45 'Long' Colt or .45LC). Don't leave home without it. That said, the .44Spec is right up their too... but the .45 Colt is still the king.

January 5, 2018, 09:13 PM	#22
rclark Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2009 Location: Butte, MT Posts: 2,620	Absolutely. ~2# single action pull. It is what I found that works very well for me over the years. It's not to light, yet not to heavy. Just right (for me). Have my gunsmith set up all my favorite Single Actions that way. __________________ A clinger and deplorable, MAGA, and life NRA member. When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns. Single Action .45 Colt (Sometimes colloquially referred to by its alias as the .45 'Long' Colt or .45LC). Don't leave home without it. That said, the .44Spec is right up their too... but the .45 Colt is still the king.

January 5, 2018, 10:39 PM	#23
UncleEd Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2013 Location: N. Georgia Posts: 1,150	RClark, Two pound SA? Do you have a trigger pull gauge? Maybe that's just what your gunsmith tells you because that's what you asked for.

January 7, 2018, 05:11 PM	#24
rclark Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2009 Location: Butte, MT Posts: 2,620	I do have a gauge. His and mine 'match'. I do believe he sets most of his customers at 3# (if I remember right) that come in for a tune-up, but since he and I also shoot together sometimes, he knows what I like. He's also turned barrels for me as needed on the fixed sighted guns. This is at the range, so we can turn, test, turn until perfect with my loads. Again it works for 'me'. I should get gauge and check to see what this new GP100 trigger pull is come to think of it! {edited} Checked. This trigger pull is off the scale. My scale only goes to 72oz and the trigger would not break. __________________ A clinger and deplorable, MAGA, and life NRA member. When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns. Single Action .45 Colt (Sometimes colloquially referred to by its alias as the .45 'Long' Colt or .45LC). Don't leave home without it. That said, the .44Spec is right up their too... but the .45 Colt is still the king. Last edited by rclark; January 7, 2018 at 05:33 PM.