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February 27, 2009, 02:33 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: February 9, 2009
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Shot my first reloads - Now the Qs
OK, decided to only make a few rounds to try this out, and now I have some questions. I loaded about 100 45acp rounds using Red Dot, 4.7gr in 50, 5.0gr in the other 50. Remington Primers
Here are the q's: 1) I had 2 of the 4.7gr loads not fire. Primer was dimpled in like all others. What typically causes this? Is this typical? I used my puller and there was indeed powder in those rounds. 2) Do I need to somehow "kill" the primers in these rounds before I deprimer them? Someone told me to spray some of my KROIL penetrating oil inside and let soak as the oil will kill the primer..is this what should be done? Observations: I only shot 14 rounds of each. (one test, the a filed mag)First the 4.7gr then the 5.0gr. Noticable difference in the push back into my hand. I did not shoot for accuracy do have no observations there, I was just nervous about shooting my first loads. |
February 27, 2009, 04:18 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: March 24, 2008
Location: SE Oklahoma
Posts: 491
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I have found that failing to seat the primer deep enough is the most common cause for it not to discharge. The face of the primer should be slightly below the surface of the case, not even with it. A lot of new reloaders are afraid to seat the primers as deeply as they should be. After awhile, you'll learn the "feel" of the primer seating properly.
Sometimes, attempting to fire the cartridge a second time, will result in it firing as the first strike of the firing pin will seat the primer deeper and then it will fire on the second attempt. I usually simply deprime the unfired primer. I've never had one go off. I do wear safety glasses just in case.
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ryalred rifle & muzzleloader -- exhilarating bowhunting -- obsession reloading -- addicted |
February 27, 2009, 04:36 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: January 20, 2005
Posts: 1,718
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What he said. ^^
Deprime the bad ones as you would any other, but just do it more slowly and wear glasses. (I even admit to turning my face away as I do it. LOL)
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"If the sole purpose of handguns is to kill people, then mine are all defective." - Uncle Ted Nugent |
February 27, 2009, 05:42 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: August 19, 2008
Location: Far Nth Wst QLD Australia
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G'day JoeSmo, I've just read a thread highlighting a danger ALL re-loaders must be careful of. http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=341348 Up until this mishap, he had never had this happen. Will he ever make the same mistakes again? I don't think so. I suppose the point I am trying to make is that we hear various warnings and we make up our own mind what to do. I am only new to reloading myself. I think if I had a primer that failed to go off, I would try it a second time. If it still failed I would 'pull' the bullet, empty out the powder, then 'cook' the case (primer) on a stove top until it goes bang.
Be safe
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February 27, 2009, 07:25 PM | #5 | |
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Join Date: November 12, 2008
Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS
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Quote:
Just deprime as if the primer were already spent. Carefully, of course. |
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February 27, 2009, 07:42 PM | #6 |
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G'day Tex S, I'm not offended at all. This is what I feel is the safest for ME. I would much rather have a detonation in a controlled environment while I am at a safe distance/location. I don't like the idea of a faulty primer (possibly) going off within arms reach.
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If you're not confused, you're not trying hard enough! When you're confused, I'll try to use smaller words!!! |
February 27, 2009, 07:50 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: November 12, 2008
Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS
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to each his own
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February 27, 2009, 09:56 PM | #8 | |
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Join Date: January 20, 2005
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Quote:
Good Lord, I bet it's hot and sticky as hell down in QLD right about now, eh? I lived in Cairns for a while and remember the heat. And the Sheilas on the Esplanade. Most of them were hot enough to cook off a primer or two!
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"If the sole purpose of handguns is to kill people, then mine are all defective." - Uncle Ted Nugent |
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February 28, 2009, 07:53 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: February 11, 2009
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Just use your resizing die. If it makes you feel better WD40 will kill primers.
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February 28, 2009, 08:59 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: July 9, 2004
Posts: 5,174
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Probably a stupid question, but why not re-chamber the now essentially "blank" cartridge (primer only) and drop the hammer on that case?
Primer goes bang in a very controlled manner, extract, eject, deprime and continue on... Am I missing something? |
March 1, 2009, 02:24 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: November 13, 2006
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I'll see if I can add to the party.
If anyone does cook off the primer,I hope they crush and toss the case as the head would be annealed.A non-ramped 1911 does not support the case well back there,bad idea to soften it. I will agree,it could be high primers. I also wonder about your crimping.The case mouth rests on the deep edge of the chamber.This is the HEADSPACE of the cartridge.It holds the case back and it is a critical dimension for a number of reasons.This is the anvil the cartridge rests on to recieve the firing pin strike.Improper crimping can muck this up.Review that chapter in the manual. I suggest you get a taper crimp die.When you set your seating die,only screw it in the press far enough to remove the bell,then taper crimp in a second operation.Some manuals will give an ideal outside dimension over the case mouth dia for a crimp spec to hit.Laser cast says .470 for a 45 ACP taper crimp with their bullets Thumbing the hammer back for a second strike is fine,but please remember,a case without powder can seem like a nothing happened,but the primer will push the bullet into the bore.If you get a click,unless you are in a firefight,DO NOT rack the slide back and try to shoot again.If that bullet is in the bore,the gun will be destroyed.You may get hurt.Stop,clear,and make sure you have an empty chamber,then make sure the barrel is clear.If you use a pencil you can keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Good luck |
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