Cylinder wiggle in S&W 686

Maromero · January 21, 2009, 02:48 PM

Hi folks. Good afternoon. I'm new to this forum and would appreciate your take in this.

I tried to open the cylinder of my father's S&W 686 and it would not open. I had to screw the ejector rod for it to open, which was loose. After "looking" to see everything was in place I noticed the cylinder has a wiggle along the ejector's axis (if you are looking from the top of the revolver and the barrel is pointing at 12 o clock, the wiggle is from north to south, not sideways). The rod won't tighten any more and the wiggle is a approximately 1-2 mm. When the cylinder is towards the barrel (forward of the wiggle) it rolls like cream. When towards the back it feels like smooth grinning! (no pun intended!)

When I questioned my father about the problem he stated he needed to regularly screw in and adjust the ejector rod or the cylinder would lock up.

The revolver has @21 years and besides this problem it seems in excellent condition. It has also seen its share of ammo but not a lot for 20 years of use.

Any ideas, solutions, recommendations on how to fix it. Is it a do it yourself, a local gunsmith's work or S&W customer service. Yes, I've never had the need to service a weapon with the manufacturer and/or any gunsmith exept for blueing so I don't know.

Thank you for your time and responses.

sadsack · January 21, 2009, 07:45 PM

Maro: You can pad a pair of pliers with a piece of leather and tighten the ejector rod. If it still works loose, as a last resort you can use "purple" locktite. Its for small screws that need to be adjusted after locktiting, but use it sparingly.

Maromero · January 21, 2009, 09:04 PM

Worth the effort. Thanks

James K · January 21, 2009, 10:12 PM

If I understand correctly, you are saying the cylinder can move back and forth endways as much as 2mm, meaning a barrel-cylinder gap of that much. I can't imagine how that could happen and I strongly suggest having the gun checked by a gunsmith or returning it to S&W.

BTW, note that the Model 686 ejector rod has a LEFT HAND thread to help prevent its unscrewing and tying up the gun.

Jim

FlyFish · January 22, 2009, 10:28 AM

It sounds like you're getting the movement when the cylinder is open because you talk about "rolling" it. If so, that amount of movement is not unusual. What's important is how much front to back movement the cylinder has when the gun is closed - that's called "end shake" and excessive end shake - on the order of several thousandths or more - is a problem, but (if not too excessive, in which case the barrel has to be set back) it can be corrected by any competent gunsmith for short money.

BTW, the cylinder turns easily in the forward position because it's only running on the yoke (the hollow rod that runs through the center). In the back position the edge of the cylinder is bearing on the frame lug, which is there to prevent the cylinder from falling off when swung out of the frame.

Maromero · January 22, 2009, 04:33 PM

Quote:

BTW, note that the Model 686 ejector rod has a LEFT HAND thread to help prevent its unscrewing and tying up the gun.

That's correct. Somehow it becomes loose, be it shooting (recoil) or during cleaning.

Quote:

It sounds like you're getting the movement when the cylinder is open because you talk about "rolling" it. If so, that amount of movement is not unusual. What's important is how much front to back movement the cylinder has when the gun is closed - that's called "end shake" and excessive end shake - on the order of several thousandths or more - is a problem, but (if not too excessive, in which case the barrel has to be set back) it can be corrected by any competent gunsmith for short money.

This is correct but ignorance kept me from checking for a wiggle when the cylinder is closed. I will check but if memory serves me right, it tightens up considerably when closed.

mookyking · January 23, 2009, 01:55 AM

I had a loose cylinder on my 686, installed end shake bearings and an oversized cylinder stop. Made it like new, no more end shake and really tight lockup. End shake bearings are drop in parts, they install in a few minutes. The cylinder stop required a complete disassembly of the entire pistol, then it just took a little light filing to adjust the fit.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=629944
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=392482

January 21, 2009, 02:48 PM	#1
Maromero Junior member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Outside the continental U Posts: 752	Cylinder wiggle in S&W 686 Hi folks. Good afternoon. I'm new to this forum and would appreciate your take in this. I tried to open the cylinder of my father's S&W 686 and it would not open. I had to screw the ejector rod for it to open, which was loose. After "looking" to see everything was in place I noticed the cylinder has a wiggle along the ejector's axis (if you are looking from the top of the revolver and the barrel is pointing at 12 o clock, the wiggle is from north to south, not sideways). The rod won't tighten any more and the wiggle is a approximately 1-2 mm. When the cylinder is towards the barrel (forward of the wiggle) it rolls like cream. When towards the back it feels like smooth grinning! (no pun intended!) When I questioned my father about the problem he stated he needed to regularly screw in and adjust the ejector rod or the cylinder would lock up. The revolver has @21 years and besides this problem it seems in excellent condition. It has also seen its share of ammo but not a lot for 20 years of use. Any ideas, solutions, recommendations on how to fix it. Is it a do it yourself, a local gunsmith's work or S&W customer service. Yes, I've never had the need to service a weapon with the manufacturer and/or any gunsmith exept for blueing so I don't know. Thank you for your time and responses.

January 21, 2009, 07:45 PM	#2
sadsack Senior Member Join Date: February 4, 2006 Posts: 206	Maro: You can pad a pair of pliers with a piece of leather and tighten the ejector rod. If it still works loose, as a last resort you can use "purple" locktite. Its for small screws that need to be adjusted after locktiting, but use it sparingly.

January 21, 2009, 09:04 PM	#3
Maromero Junior member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Outside the continental U Posts: 752	Worth the effort. Thanks

January 21, 2009, 10:12 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	If I understand correctly, you are saying the cylinder can move back and forth endways as much as 2mm, meaning a barrel-cylinder gap of that much. I can't imagine how that could happen and I strongly suggest having the gun checked by a gunsmith or returning it to S&W. BTW, note that the Model 686 ejector rod has a LEFT HAND thread to help prevent its unscrewing and tying up the gun. Jim

January 22, 2009, 10:28 AM	#5
FlyFish Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Location: Overlooking the Baker River Valley Posts: 1,723	It sounds like you're getting the movement when the cylinder is open because you talk about "rolling" it. If so, that amount of movement is not unusual. What's important is how much front to back movement the cylinder has when the gun is closed - that's called "end shake" and excessive end shake - on the order of several thousandths or more - is a problem, but (if not too excessive, in which case the barrel has to be set back) it can be corrected by any competent gunsmith for short money. BTW, the cylinder turns easily in the forward position because it's only running on the yoke (the hollow rod that runs through the center). In the back position the edge of the cylinder is bearing on the frame lug, which is there to prevent the cylinder from falling off when swung out of the frame.

January 23, 2009, 01:55 AM	#7
mookyking Junior Member Join Date: July 16, 2008 Posts: 1	I had a loose cylinder on my 686, installed end shake bearings and an oversized cylinder stop. Made it like new, no more end shake and really tight lockup. End shake bearings are drop in parts, they install in a few minutes. The cylinder stop required a complete disassembly of the entire pistol, then it just took a little light filing to adjust the fit. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=629944 http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=392482