muzzle brake????

medic jim · February 28, 2014, 05:40 PM

The Weatherby Vanguard I just purchased has a seemingly aftermarket permanent brake installed. The local smith told me it was a very nice, well built, and well designed unit. He was u able to guess at the make of it or model. Wandering if anyone here has an idea as I'm just wanting to know what to expect aside from increased noise. I'm hoping it will make a significant reduction in recoil, though. (I do t have much padding).

thanks for any input.

PetahW · February 28, 2014, 06:11 PM

.

Unless the vents direct muzzle gasses upward, you will most likely still get plenty of muzzle rise.

IMHO, that attachment looks more like a flash-hider than a muzzle brake.

.

medic jim · February 28, 2014, 06:38 PM

I sure hope not. Lol

Dixie Gunsmithing · February 28, 2014, 08:11 PM

Generally, a brake has the vents drilled or milled in an angle toward the shooter, somewhere around 10 to 20 degrees, and on the side and top, so the gas does two things. The gas escaping backwards limits recoil, and the gas going upward limits muzzle climb.

A flash hider generally has the holes or ports straight out the side, top, and bottom.

Sierra280 · February 28, 2014, 10:09 PM

Flash hider sounds about right. If that is supposed to be a muzzle brake I can't see it doing much good.

Not ALL muzzle brakes help with muzzle rise, some are solely for recoil suppression-like the only gun I have with a brake-here's a link to a thread that has a pic, note the angle it's directing the gasses.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=534202

medic jim · February 28, 2014, 10:44 PM

If it does turn out to be permenant, how much am i looking at in general to have it removed and the barrel threaded to accept a good brake? And if its removable, which I can do if so, what brand and model would you guys recommend to reduce the most recoil?

Old Stony · March 1, 2014, 05:09 AM

I don't understand the " permanent aftermarket" status of this brake. If it was added aftermarket an not welded on, it should be removable. It would about have to be pinned on, soldered on, or threaded on....and I would suspect it's threaded. If that's the case, it certainly can be changed.
That unit doesn't look like it would do much good for your purposes. I think mostly it would just be louder than necessary.

Dixie Gunsmithing · March 1, 2014, 06:45 AM

medic jim,

I don't think its permanent either. The photo looks to show a parting line right behind it, where it meets the barrel, as if it has been screwed on. The other most likely alternative would be put on with silver solder. Either way, a gunsmith can remove it if need be, and not at too much cost.

PetahW · March 1, 2014, 07:07 AM

.

I would suggest shooting the rifle first, then (if you find it objectional) removing the attachment from the bbl & screwing on a thread protector/cap (with a hole a bit over bore size in the middle), for the "smoothie" look.

.

old roper · March 1, 2014, 07:53 AM

It looks like one of Kirby's brakes that been modified

http://www.apsrifles.com/Painkiller_...Brakes_QY.html

medic jim · March 1, 2014, 02:18 PM

Good idea with the cap. I will shoot it and go from there of course. If i wind up with the Weatherby eyebrow, we will know a replacement is in order. Lol

Ibmikey · March 3, 2014, 08:51 AM

I assume this is a side view, the noise on either side will be deafening. As stated above it is not drilled at an angle to be much of a brake.

medic jim · March 3, 2014, 10:45 AM

Yep, its side view.

Slopemeno · March 3, 2014, 04:27 PM

It'll work fine. I'd shoot it before I start thinking about removing it.

jaguarxk120 · March 3, 2014, 04:49 PM

What Slopemeno said, shoot it first. The brake will work, it has a expansion chamber and the side vents.

What most people do not realize is that the major component of recoil is the jet factor or the high pressure powder gasses exiting the muzzle.

A muzzle brake directs those gasses off to the side reducing recoil.

The vents do not have to be angled to the rear at all.

Yes a gun with a muzzle brake is louder, but all ranges require hearing protection just to be on the range.

medic jim · March 4, 2014, 09:05 AM

Yep, im going to shoot it first. Ill be disappointed if its worthless, but irritated if i remove it only to find out later it was fine. Time, & good enough weather to shoot will tell. ill give a range report.

newmexicocrawler · March 10, 2014, 09:04 PM

I use a brake and I turned it a little so it helps stop the muzzle from moving up and to the right.

tobnpr · March 11, 2014, 07:19 PM

Porting or directing the gases to the rear is more effective at reducing felt recoil, but side porting is still effective. Porting upwards reduces muzzle rise.

What you never want is porting at the bottom...

February 28, 2014, 06:38 PM	#3
medic jim Member Join Date: February 14, 2014 Location: Southern, IL Posts: 42	eek. I sure hope not. Lol

February 28, 2014, 10:44 PM	#6
medic jim Member Join Date: February 14, 2014 Location: Southern, IL Posts: 42	remove If it does turn out to be permenant, how much am i looking at in general to have it removed and the barrel threaded to accept a good brake? And if its removable, which I can do if so, what brand and model would you guys recommend to reduce the most recoil?

March 1, 2014, 07:53 AM	#10
old roper Senior Member Join Date: June 11, 2007 Posts: 2,155	It looks like one of Kirby's brakes that been modified http://www.apsrifles.com/Painkiller_...Brakes_QY.html __________________ Semper Fi Vietnam 1965 VFW Life member NRA Life Member

March 3, 2014, 10:45 AM	#13
medic jim Member Join Date: February 14, 2014 Location: Southern, IL Posts: 42	view Yep, its side view.

March 4, 2014, 09:05 AM	#16
medic jim Member Join Date: February 14, 2014 Location: Southern, IL Posts: 42	try Yep, im going to shoot it first. Ill be disappointed if its worthless, but irritated if i remove it only to find out later it was fine. Time, & good enough weather to shoot will tell. ill give a range report.

February 28, 2014, 06:11 PM	#2
PetahW Senior Member Join Date: September 19, 2008 Posts: 4,678	. Unless the vents direct muzzle gasses upward, you will most likely still get plenty of muzzle rise. IMHO, that attachment looks more like a flash-hider than a muzzle brake. .

February 28, 2014, 08:11 PM	#4
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	Generally, a brake has the vents drilled or milled in an angle toward the shooter, somewhere around 10 to 20 degrees, and on the side and top, so the gas does two things. The gas escaping backwards limits recoil, and the gas going upward limits muzzle climb. A flash hider generally has the holes or ports straight out the side, top, and bottom.

February 28, 2014, 10:09 PM	#5
Sierra280 Junior member Join Date: July 29, 2013 Location: Gardnerville, NV Posts: 569	Flash hider sounds about right. If that is supposed to be a muzzle brake I can't see it doing much good. Not ALL muzzle brakes help with muzzle rise, some are solely for recoil suppression-like the only gun I have with a brake-here's a link to a thread that has a pic, note the angle it's directing the gasses. http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=534202

March 1, 2014, 05:09 AM	#7
Old Stony Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2013 Location: East Texas Posts: 1,705	I don't understand the " permanent aftermarket" status of this brake. If it was added aftermarket an not welded on, it should be removable. It would about have to be pinned on, soldered on, or threaded on....and I would suspect it's threaded. If that's the case, it certainly can be changed. That unit doesn't look like it would do much good for your purposes. I think mostly it would just be louder than necessary.

March 1, 2014, 06:45 AM	#8
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	medic jim, I don't think its permanent either. The photo looks to show a parting line right behind it, where it meets the barrel, as if it has been screwed on. The other most likely alternative would be put on with silver solder. Either way, a gunsmith can remove it if need be, and not at too much cost.

March 1, 2014, 07:07 AM	#9
PetahW Senior Member Join Date: September 19, 2008 Posts: 4,678	. I would suggest shooting the rifle first, then (if you find it objectional) removing the attachment from the bbl & screwing on a thread protector/cap (with a hole a bit over bore size in the middle), for the "smoothie" look. .

March 1, 2014, 02:18 PM	#11
medic jim Member Join Date: February 14, 2014 Location: Southern, IL Posts: 42	Good idea with the cap. I will shoot it and go from there of course. If i wind up with the Weatherby eyebrow, we will know a replacement is in order. Lol

March 3, 2014, 08:51 AM	#12
Ibmikey Senior Member Join Date: June 1, 2013 Location: Now relocated to Texas Posts: 2,943	I assume this is a side view, the noise on either side will be deafening. As stated above it is not drilled at an angle to be much of a brake.

March 3, 2014, 04:27 PM	#14
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	It'll work fine. I'd shoot it before I start thinking about removing it.

March 3, 2014, 04:49 PM	#15
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,620	What Slopemeno said, shoot it first. The brake will work, it has a expansion chamber and the side vents. What most people do not realize is that the major component of recoil is the jet factor or the high pressure powder gasses exiting the muzzle. A muzzle brake directs those gasses off to the side reducing recoil. The vents do not have to be angled to the rear at all. Yes a gun with a muzzle brake is louder, but all ranges require hearing protection just to be on the range.

March 10, 2014, 09:04 PM	#17
newmexicocrawler Member Join Date: April 4, 2013 Posts: 25	I use a brake and I turned it a little so it helps stop the muzzle from moving up and to the right.

March 11, 2014, 07:19 PM	#18
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	Porting or directing the gases to the rear is more effective at reducing felt recoil, but side porting is still effective. Porting upwards reduces muzzle rise. What you never want is porting at the bottom... __________________ Remington 700/Savage Rebarreling /Action Blueprinting 07 FFL /Mosin-Nagant Custom Shop/Bent Bolts Genuine Cerakote Applicator www.biggorillagunworks.com