Dremel question for polising slide - Page 2

**4V50 Gary** · April 25, 2013, 07:21 AM

For a slide, I would hand polish. Depending on the scratches, I would use 320 or 400 grit paper that is backed by a file. Draw file it across. As it cleans up then it may be taken to a big buffer wheel (and lightly buffed).

If used judiciously, dremels are good for small parts.

Dragline45 · April 29, 2013, 08:35 PM

I do most of my polishing by hand but do use the Dremel on small areas like barrel hoods and feed ramps if you can get it in there. Fair warning, the red rogue polish that comes with the Dremel is pretty abrasive and I tossed it. Tested it on a piece of steel and after only a minute or two it left a shallow gouge in it. Stick to Mothers Mag polish or Flitz, gives a much higher shine too. Also you need to be wary of the screw that protrudes from the dremel bit that holds the cotton wheels, if you told it at the right angle you can scratch the hell out of your gun.

Deeper scratches I work with 800 grit wet-dry and some gun oil, then I move up to 1000, and finish with 1200. The 1200 is not entirely necessary but the sheets of wet-dry cost nothing. Wrap the wet dry in accordingly sized wood blocks to work the surface evenly, if its flat that is.

With enough practice in restoring and refinishing metal it really pays off. I can take the most beat up scratched S&W revolver and have that thing looking better than when it came off the line.

Dixie Gunsmithing · May 1, 2013, 08:43 AM

A Dremel is a little too fast for this, unless the cloth polishing wheel is around 1" in diameter or less. The reason why is the surface speed in inches or feet per minute of the wheel.

The larger flex-shaft models, though, can be used with larger polishing wheels, and polish, as they turn much slower, and you can easily control the speed with a foot pedal.

If you want to just brighten up, or "color" the finish, you can use a fine grit scotch-brite wheel, using around 400 grit or finer on stainless.

polyphemus · May 7, 2013, 07:31 PM

"My question is,..."
And mine would be:just exactly what are you fixin' to polish and why?
As a greek philosopher of antiquity said:" A Dremel is a motorized hammer and chisel"

April 25, 2013, 07:21 AM	#26
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	For a slide, I would hand polish. Depending on the scratches, I would use 320 or 400 grit paper that is backed by a file. Draw file it across. As it cleans up then it may be taken to a big buffer wheel (and lightly buffed). If used judiciously, dremels are good for small parts. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

April 29, 2013, 08:35 PM	#27
Dragline45 Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2010 Posts: 3,513	I do most of my polishing by hand but do use the Dremel on small areas like barrel hoods and feed ramps if you can get it in there. Fair warning, the red rogue polish that comes with the Dremel is pretty abrasive and I tossed it. Tested it on a piece of steel and after only a minute or two it left a shallow gouge in it. Stick to Mothers Mag polish or Flitz, gives a much higher shine too. Also you need to be wary of the screw that protrudes from the dremel bit that holds the cotton wheels, if you told it at the right angle you can scratch the hell out of your gun. Deeper scratches I work with 800 grit wet-dry and some gun oil, then I move up to 1000, and finish with 1200. The 1200 is not entirely necessary but the sheets of wet-dry cost nothing. Wrap the wet dry in accordingly sized wood blocks to work the surface evenly, if its flat that is. With enough practice in restoring and refinishing metal it really pays off. I can take the most beat up scratched S&W revolver and have that thing looking better than when it came off the line. Last edited by Dragline45; April 29, 2013 at 08:46 PM.

May 1, 2013, 08:43 AM	#28
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	A Dremel is a little too fast for this, unless the cloth polishing wheel is around 1" in diameter or less. The reason why is the surface speed in inches or feet per minute of the wheel. The larger flex-shaft models, though, can be used with larger polishing wheels, and polish, as they turn much slower, and you can easily control the speed with a foot pedal. If you want to just brighten up, or "color" the finish, you can use a fine grit scotch-brite wheel, using around 400 grit or finer on stainless.

May 7, 2013, 07:31 PM	#29
polyphemus Senior Member Join Date: June 24, 2012 Posts: 1,055	"My question is,..." And mine would be:just exactly what are you fixin' to polish and why? As a greek philosopher of antiquity said:" A Dremel is a motorized hammer and chisel"