SW Model 610 Ammo Suggestions / Brass not ejecting well

[smitl37]

I have a new sw model 610 revolver (10mm / 40sw). The 40 works fine. When I shot the 10mm, the brass was extremely difficult to eject from the cylinder. I was using Armscor 180gr brass. Thinking it was ammo, I also tried blazer brass 180gr and it was easy to remove. I measured the spent casings and found the Armscor ammo expanded .004" more than the Blazer brass. The cartridges are almost a flush fit in the cylinder.

I am looking for ammo suggestions / avoidances (brand, case material, grain, etc.) that I can use to avoid this issue. I figured it would be cheaper to ask on here for suggestions than to try out a bunch of ammo. Preferably range ammo, but will take defense / hunting suggestions too.

[ciwsguy]

Some possibilities:
1. You may just have tight chambers. Suggest measure chamber opening.
2. Did you shoot 40s&w prior to shooting 10mm? If so you may need to clean the cylinder similar to shooting 38 Special the shooting 357 magnum. The 38 case is shorter and a fouling ring for a forward of the 40 case.
3. I haven’t shot much Armscor ammo, but what I did was underpowered and left blowby fouling on the case.
Just some thoughts but I recently purchased a new S&W 629 44 magnum and noticed the same with tight shell extraction after shooting 44 magnum without shooting 44 special. I have a feeling the chambers on your revolver is just tight.

[ciwsguy]

Another thought: Deleted
Blazer brass tends to be less powerful than some premium loads.

[smitl37]

So it is not crud building up. I did a full moon clip of blazer brass and it ejected without any resistance, vs the Armscor which needed beat out. Was not cleaned or anything prior to. I think it is just the ammo type, and was looking for other ammos that may be good or to avoid.

[MarkCO]

It is crud building up.

If you shoot .40, you really need to scrub the cylinders or the 10mm cases will bind. The blazer is so weak that cases don't expand and won't bind, which is why some guys like to shoot them in the 610 when they shoot both 40 and 10mm.

[JustJake]

I have a new sw model 610 revolver (10mm / 40sw). The 40 works fine. When I shot the 10mm, the brass was extremely difficult to eject from the cylinder. I was using Armscor 180gr brass. Thinking it was ammo, I also tried blazer brass 180gr and it was easy to remove. I measured the spent casings and found the Armscor ammo expanded .004" more than the Blazer brass. The cartridges are almost a flush fit in the cylinder.

Sooooo ... are you sayin you didn’t use moon clips?

The spent cases in the clips eject like butter from my 610. Pops all of em right out when I smack the cylinder rod. The clips also facilitate quick and fumble-free loading.

Course, my 610 is an older model from the ‘90s. These days S&W’s Q.C. is a known problem.

[wild cat mccane]

Interesting to know about Blazer being sought after in the 610 marco. I had no idea.

In general, I consider Blazer the worst US ammo you can buy. While CCI makes good stuff, Blazer is the cheapest of the Vista catalog and is known to cause problems in the past. I think Vista standardized the weird CCI primers? but I think the cases remain crud. Even though I like CCI Lawman, I've learned the TMJ process is actually cheaper to produce. So I'm loosing my affinity to the brand.

All bullets are copper plated (basically non are true cup and pour), but CCI Blazer seems to be cheapest, gilded or not.

http://www.coldboretact.com/blazer-b...rohibited.html

[ciwsguy]

Hmmm. Well, since the Armscor is giving you trouble, recommend steer clear of it for your 610. I’m not seeing that much 10mm factory ammo on store shelves around this area, so your ammo choice(s) may be very limited.
Personally, my best go-to ammo is Winchester white box when I can find it, though I don’t own a model 610 revolver or any 10mm pistol for that matter.

[JustJake]

Personally, my best go-to ammo is Winchester white box when I can find it, though I don’t own a model 610 revolver or any 10mm pistol for that matter.

Soooo, why would you recommend that ammo for a 10mm revolver you don’t own, nor any other gun in that caliber?

[MarkCO]

Originally Posted by wild cat mccane

Interesting to know about Blazer being sought after in the 610 marco. I had no idea.

In general, I consider Blazer the worst US ammo you can buy. While CCI makes good stuff, Blazer is the cheapest of the Vista catalog and is known to cause problems in the past. I think Vista standardized the weird CCI primers? but I think the cases remain crud.

Agree, not a fan of it either.

[Unclenick]

Originally Posted by smitl37

So it is not crud building up. I did a full moon clip of blazer brass and it ejected without any resistance, vs the Armscor which needed beat out. Was not cleaned or anything prior to. I think it is just the ammo type, and was looking for other ammos that may be good or to avoid.

With revolvers, broadly speaking, sticky extraction is one of two things:

1. An over-pressure load that expanded the cylinder enough that it trapped the brass when it elastically returned to size.
   
2. Crud built up at the case mouth position of a shorter case fired in the gun, creating a constriction when a longer case is used in the gun.

Both situations are possible. A fellow on another board tested ammunition for government agencies and said that by the time your testers have fired half a million rounds of different commercial ammunition, you have seen every kind of failure that any reloader has, including over and underloaded or uncharged or backward or crushed primers, and a few failures the reloader doesn't have, like a seated hollow jacket with no lead core, or a primer pocket with no flash hole. While most commercial ammo is reliable, the possibility of a manufacturing error can't be dismissed out of hand. You occasionally see recall notices for specific lots of loaded ammunition for exactly this reason. So if the chambers are truly clean, you may want to contact Armscorp about that ammo lot and see if they want you to send it or part of it to them for testing.

The dirty chamber issue is common with folks firing 44 Special in 44 Magnums, 38 Special in 357 magnums, 32 Long in 32 H&R Mag (or both of those in the 327 Federal), etc. Any time you shoot a cartridge whose case is not the full length of the chamber you are firing it in, a buildup of carbon or metal fouling may occur just in front of the mouth of the short case that subsequently interferes with longer cases being chambered or can make it hard for them to expand enough to release the bullet, which raises pressure, and then you have both causes for the symptom at work.

You want to look closely at your chambers. If you borrow or can afford one of the inexpensive borescopes sold on Amazon, looking with one of those will let you see a lot more clearly than looking through from either end of the chamber with the light at a shallow angle of incidence. You might be able to feel a constriction with a bent paperclip. If you have this issue, I recommend getting a little Slip2000 Carbon Killer, wetting the chambers with it and letting it sit 15 minutes, and then brushing it out with a bronze chamber brush and then patching it out and then repeating until nothing else comes out.

[44 AMP]

when you say "Blazer" are you talking about Blazer Brass or Blazer Aluminum ??

The Aluminum cased Blazer is specifically designed NOT to be reloadable. They even use a Berdan type primer for that very reason. My experience is that they are loaded on the lighter end of the power range, as well. They are intended to be cheap (relatively) practice ammo.

Blazer Brass is standard brass cased ammo, boxer primed and fine for reloading. They are/were CCI's budget brand brass ammo.

If brand A ammo sticks in your gun, and Brand B doesn't, use brand B. ITs really that easy.

If everything sticks, then you've got a gun issue, and it gets a bit more complicated.

[wild cat mccane]

Hey OP.

Did you get it figured out?

On defensive, HST is bested by none. Super cool it doesn't take FPS to do it too.