Help with my new Hornady powder measure

[Kjeil]

First off I'm a newbie so please be patient if I am missing something obvious.

I think I've gotten just about everything working with my new Lock N Load Classic kit except for the powder measure.

I keep getting inconsistent drops and I think it is because the powder keeps sticking to the inside of the measure. I've cleaned it per the directions and rubbed it thoroughly with drier sheets but the powder keeps sticking. Any other ideas?

I'm using IMR 3031 and Varget powders.

[DaveInPA]

As in static cling in the hopper? Did you wash it in diluted dishwashing soap and let it AIR DRY? That usually does the trick. It's odd that you're getting severe static cling problems with stick powder. Usually happens with ball and flake.

If you still have problems, your room might just be very dry. Do you happen to know what the humidity is? If it's really dry, you might need to run a humidifier in the room.

[Kjeil]

The instructions said to use Hornady's One Shot cleaner and dry lube.

Do you mean clean all the parts with the diluted dish detergent? What about the metal parts, don't they need some sort of lube or protectant?

The humidity here has been in the 30-40% range.

[DaveInPA]

That is really dry. You may want to get a humidifier for your reloading room.

Just wash the plastic hopper in diluted dishwashing soap, then let it air dry. Should leave a slight film that will help with the static.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

try dropping more charges...i found when i first got mine it didn't drop consistently...until i dropped about 1/2 to 3/4 of a tube of powder. i reload in my basement with 35%RH...I run a dehumidifier. i do find that even varget will collect static and want to stick to the measurer a little.

[DaveInPA]

Very good point, I forgot about that. The directions for my RCBS uniflow, which is similar to the Hornady unit, suggested to run a pound of powder through the powder measure before measuring charges to coat the internals of the measure.

[Shoney]

Kjeil

Hornady equipment is coated with a protective agent at the factory to prevent rust during shipping and as it stays on the shelf. Somewhere in your instructions it should state that you should disassemble the powder measure and clean it with a mild soap and water. I used Dawn.

Once you dry and reassemble you’re the measure, use the powdered graphite to lube the moving parts.

During the winter months the humidity is sucked out of the air by cold temperatures. Dryer air promotes static electricity. If you simply wipe down the outside of the measure with a fairly damp towel just before starting a run, and periodically during the run, you will see little static. Do not wipe inside with anything. Dryer sheets have chemicals on them if they are fresh.

Let us know how it turns out.

[Shoney]

I also installed double Powder Baffels, made from pop can aluminum. They help considerably, especially with flake powders.

Try this site, go down to UncleNick and download the attachment.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=281501

[TheNatureBoy]

I quit trying to figure out the one that came with my Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit. Worked one load, didn't the next. Operator error I'm sure.

[Shoney]

When using a powder measure, you will deal with three types of powders. Extruded (ex. IMR3031), Ball/Spherical (H335), and Flake (Unique).

With ball your charges should be almost always the same, with flake, you get bridging of the flakes and can get widely varying charges if you are not careful. Extruded powders are very hard to throw with any accuracy and should be weighed every time.

If you want to use the full potential of the progressive, you must be using ball powders or some of the partially flattened Shpherical powders (Univeral is one).

[LHB1]

Good advice above. Remove powder measuring insert and powder drum. Clean thoroughly with acetone/alcohol/etc. and then lube with graphite or molybdenum disulfide. NO OIL or grease on drum or drop tube. I shortened my powder hopper and installed a baffle in it. Also use consistent force and mode of operation for best results.

[Kjeil]

Everybody, thanks for the replies.

The dish detergent did the trick, it's now at least withing plus/minus .1 grain which seems good based on the powder. It at least gets me close enough to finish quickly with the trickler

So it looks like I should try some of the ball powders, can anybody recommend a good on for .223? I'm looking to load Hornady's 75 grain or Sierra 69 or 77 grain.

[DaveInPA]

H335 and BL(C)-2 are two ball powders widely used for .223, however they are generally suited well for lighter bullets. For bullets in that weight range, you're mainly going to be using extruded powders such as Varget.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

varget works well for me...i normally shoot 55 grain fmj.

[DaveInPA]

varget works well for me...i normally shoot 55 grain fmj.

Have you tried H335 or BL(C)-2? They'll generally meter better so you can load up that FMJ blasting ammo more quickly