Help with SN on my SW 38

Conductorman · April 15, 2023, 09:49 PM

[ATTACH]115866[/ATTACH

I need help on finding the correct SN
and when it was made. I found two
numbers 801XXX P and the other was
40916 . Thanks

Jim Watson · April 15, 2023, 10:30 PM

The true serial number is on the butt of the revolver.

We also need to know which S&W it is.
Overall pictures will help.

Conductorman · April 16, 2023, 08:54 PM

https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqslfY1t71cdxlAemriNS76XxKD6

The number 801xxx p on the butt of the gun and 801xxx
on the cylinder on my 38 pistol.

Sevens · April 17, 2023, 01:06 AM

I would guess 1941 or 1942. This was marketed as the Military & Police.

Note that this revolver is chambered for the .38 Smith & Wesson cartridge -- NOT the much more common .38 Special. Many revolvers from this era were converted to shoot .38 Special and many of those were converted VERY crudely.

The proper .38 S&W ammunition is much more difficult to find (you can order it online but most stores don't carry it) and it will cost more money than you may expect.

The pearl or faux-pearl stocks are not original. This revolver also has the older style "long action." The 40916 number is an inside assembly number that was used during manufacture and has no relevance now.

I am curious about the "p" suffix you see at the end of the serial number, that's not something I'm familiar with and it is not shown in your pictures.

Conductorman · April 17, 2023, 07:43 AM

https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqslfY1t71cdxlJ3Np61r-CSoee3
Here is a picture

Jim Watson · April 17, 2023, 08:17 AM

I thought it looked kind of shiny for a wartime revolver.
The lanyard loop stud was cut off flush when it was reblued.

The "P" is a common proof mark on 1911s and rifles, maybe this revolver went through a shop that just stamped it on everything routinely.

Conductorman · April 17, 2023, 11:12 AM

I’m confused what model gun do you think it is ? Do you think it’s worth much?

MC 1911 · April 17, 2023, 03:51 PM

See Sevens post #4. Military & Police, Victory Model,Pre Model 10 and finally Model 10. Depends on the series & year it was made.

Conductorman · April 18, 2023, 03:14 PM

How much do you think it’s worth.

MC 1911 · April 18, 2023, 03:20 PM

No collector value and hard to find caliber so maybe a couple hundred max I would guess unless someone really wants it.

ammo.crafter · April 18, 2023, 03:40 PM

Have a competent smith go over your gun. Well worth the investment.

As to s&w and Special, the 38S&W has a cartridge length of 1.240"
the 38Spcl has a cartridge length of 1.550"

If you reload you may be able to duplicate factory ammo for this weapon.

Sevens · April 19, 2023, 01:25 PM

I am -no- authority on this but I believe the "poorly converted" gun simply had the chamber reamed for length... the net result is a revolver that is basically safe (mostly safe...?) for shooting .38 Special however accuracy can be less than optimal as the bullet diameter of .38 Special is undersized. The bigger issue is that .38 Special brass swells in the slightly larger diameter chambers and the brass can or will get wrecked.

All of this is moot if your revolver is original and not altered.

April 17, 2023, 03:51 PM	#8
MC 1911 Senior Member Join Date: February 19, 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 330	See Sevens post #4. Military & Police, Victory Model,Pre Model 10 and finally Model 10. Depends on the series & year it was made. Last edited by MC 1911; April 17, 2023 at 03:59 PM.

April 18, 2023, 03:40 PM	#11
ammo.crafter Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2006 Location: The Keystone State Posts: 1,952	38S&W vs 38Spcl Have a competent smith go over your gun. Well worth the investment. As to s&w and Special, the 38S&W has a cartridge length of 1.240" the 38Spcl has a cartridge length of 1.550" If you reload you may be able to duplicate factory ammo for this weapon. __________________ "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". --Thomas Jefferson

April 19, 2023, 01:25 PM	#12
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,714	I am -no- authority on this but I believe the "poorly converted" gun simply had the chamber reamed for length... the net result is a revolver that is basically safe (mostly safe...?) for shooting .38 Special however accuracy can be less than optimal as the bullet diameter of .38 Special is undersized. The bigger issue is that .38 Special brass swells in the slightly larger diameter chambers and the brass can or will get wrecked. All of this is moot if your revolver is original and not altered. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

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April 15, 2023, 10:30 PM	#2
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,300	The true serial number is on the butt of the revolver. We also need to know which S&W it is. Overall pictures will help.

April 16, 2023, 08:54 PM	#3
Conductorman Junior Member Join Date: April 14, 2023 Location: Montgomery,Alabama Posts: 5	https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqslfY1t71cdxlAemriNS76XxKD6 The number 801xxx p on the butt of the gun and 801xxx on the cylinder on my 38 pistol.

April 17, 2023, 01:06 AM	#4
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,714	I would guess 1941 or 1942. This was marketed as the Military & Police. Note that this revolver is chambered for the .38 Smith & Wesson cartridge -- NOT the much more common .38 Special. Many revolvers from this era were converted to shoot .38 Special and many of those were converted VERY crudely. The proper .38 S&W ammunition is much more difficult to find (you can order it online but most stores don't carry it) and it will cost more money than you may expect. The pearl or faux-pearl stocks are not original. This revolver also has the older style "long action." The 40916 number is an inside assembly number that was used during manufacture and has no relevance now. I am curious about the "p" suffix you see at the end of the serial number, that's not something I'm familiar with and it is not shown in your pictures. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

April 17, 2023, 07:43 AM	#5
Conductorman Junior Member Join Date: April 14, 2023 Location: Montgomery,Alabama Posts: 5	https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqslfY1t71cdxlJ3Np61r-CSoee3 Here is a picture

April 17, 2023, 08:17 AM	#6
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,300	I thought it looked kind of shiny for a wartime revolver. The lanyard loop stud was cut off flush when it was reblued. The "P" is a common proof mark on 1911s and rifles, maybe this revolver went through a shop that just stamped it on everything routinely.

April 17, 2023, 11:12 AM	#7
Conductorman Junior Member Join Date: April 14, 2023 Location: Montgomery,Alabama Posts: 5	I’m confused what model gun do you think it is ? Do you think it’s worth much?

April 18, 2023, 03:14 PM	#9
Conductorman Junior Member Join Date: April 14, 2023 Location: Montgomery,Alabama Posts: 5	How much do you think it’s worth.

April 18, 2023, 03:20 PM	#10
MC 1911 Senior Member Join Date: February 19, 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 330	No collector value and hard to find caliber so maybe a couple hundred max I would guess unless someone really wants it.